New Routes

New Route at the Gallows

As there isn't an entry for this area in the Duck reach guide, here is a recent addition

Fridge Lifting 101 23 4BR Rap Chains at the top

Arete/Pillar on the far RH side of the buttress just right of the 16 crack. Classic arete climbing with a couple of "Fridge Lifting" moves in the middle. At the fourth bolt there is the option of moving right and turning the arete into a layback. Optional wire for the last move over the top

FA Ian Ferrier 13/11/07

From Garry Phillips:
**Walking the Plank Direct finish 18m 22
Climb Walking the Plank, but rather than stepping right into BEB head left past 1 bolt runner and up lay back off width to finish. Take a #4 friend for the top.
Garry Phillips and Jake Bresnehan Sept 07

***Exocet 48m 26
A total classic.
1)17 18m
Climb up No More Mr Nice Guy to the traverse line and then continue up corner to dbb.
2) 26 18m
The pumpy thin crack up the overhanging arete and around the corner passing a bolt (crux) to another dbb.
3) 17 10m
The nice hand and offwidth to the top.
Garry Phillips and Simon Young 07

***Animal Instincts Direct 15m 28
One of the best and all on gear!
When the original route traverses right, head direct up the flaring cracks above.
Garry Phillips and Simon Young 07

Waterworks Quarry
Resurrection 10m 15
Takes a line between DITNO and Jesus, covering the line of another route that fell down.... . Climb to the 3rd bolt of Jesus and trend L past 2 more BR to finish as for DITNO. OCCG (Old Codgers Climbing Group) 2005

Another couple at Mt Brown from Garry:

hi john here are two new routes at paradiso
In my opinion they are both awesome and are some of the best down there!
ive climbed them all so i know which are the better ones. Snooze and you loose is crazy and hard at the top!
garry

***Snooze and You Loose 28m 27 Þ
Super good. Climb Expendable youth to half height then head left and through the roof and up to chains on Sultan of Sweat.
G Phillips 07

***Number One 25m 26 Þ
Starts as for Total Recall then head left at roof and up to chains on the ledge. Can be done just on bolts or if you like take #1 and #2.5 friends.
G Phillips 07

A big new one from Garry Phillips and Dean Rollins at Mt Brown Main Face:

I've Heard It All Before 225m 23 (or 18A0)
A nice little day out. Located on the over sea wall on Mt Brown. For full value go down when the swell is pumping. It's nuts!
1) 30m 12. From the ledge above the sea follow the easy crack up the slab and the wall above.
2) 15m 10. The face above to the chill out ledge.
3) 15m 17. Traverse left to the next ledge. (fully bolted).
4) 25m 19. The face to the corner and then the triple cracks to the ledge take double #2.5 and #3 friends.
5) 20m 14. The fantastic ramp under the big roofs finishing at The Come Again Belay (fully bolted).
6) 25m 17. From the belay head up ramp then back right to the nice small ledge above the ocean! Dubbed the Milky Way Pitch (fully bolted).
7) 15m 22. A bouldery pitch up the corner to Deano's ledge (fully bolted).
8) 40m 22. From Deano's ledge step left and climb the cool face and cracks to the ledge.
9) 25m 20. Up the crack, then break right to flake line and then back left to finish. A little intimidating! (Fully bolted).
10) 10m 10. Scramble easily out.
Equipped: Garry Phillips with much help from Deano on the lower pitches. FA: Garry Phillips and Dean Roland, November 2007
Suggested gear list: Double Ropes and helmets, 10 short quick draws and 5 long quick draws, set of cams from finger tips to #3.5 friend with doubles around #1.5 friend and 2.5 friend. Screw gates for the belays. Note: The above does not allow for rappelling the route.

Check out the topo on the Mount Brown page.

One from Jake and Al:

The Times They Are A-Changin' 30m 18
Just left of Completion Backwards Principle. Rap in the same as for Completion... Follow perfect size squeeze crack of least resistance up. Big gear. A number 5 camalot comes in handy for the last 10m. But Don't Think Twice, It's All Right, it's 2008 not 1968.
Jake Bresnehan, Alan Williams 15/1/08

A new one at the Tyndalls from Simon Young:

Big City Life 135m 26 (23A0) ***
Quite a unique route that will prove to be a popular classic. Slightly longer and more varied than Raindancer it is a good route to get used to the Tyndalls style. Being well protected and all belays being DBB upon spacious ledges, it is set up for a fun day out. With the Urban Sprawl variants it is possible to do the route all up at Grade 20. The crux pitch is a good introduction to the harder technical face-climbing the Tyndalls has to offer. The Truckstop Ledge is a good a place as any to chill out, it being safe to walk around un-roped.

Access:
As for Raindancer. The route takes the obvious lines on the buttress to the right of the Raindancer slabs. Once above the bolts for Raindancer continue north along the vegetation to a ramp, the rap bolts are north facing. From the initial bolts, rap 20m to a belay on the actual face. Another 30m Rap will put you onto the Truckstop Ledge. From the bush continue with two more 30m abseils to put you at the base of the route. The base is safe enough to walk around unroped on.
Description:
1. 25m 17. Up corner and face easily to belay. Fully bolted
2. 35m 22. From belay head up and right to tackle intimidating rising water carved feature. Belay on comfy ledge. All bolted except for a #2 Camalot before the exit onto slab. Belay on comfy ledge.
3. 30m 18. Step Right off belay ledge and up past a bolt into the corner. Up past medium cams to another bolt, then easily up slab to belay beneath shallow corner. Bolts and natural gear.
4. 30m 26. Up technical corner/face (crux) passing the bulge to the right. Shake out and continue up pleasant slab to belay. Fully bolted.
5. 15m 15. Up easy slab and scramble to belay past 3 bolts.
Equipped: Simon Young
FA: Simon Young and John Fischer, 22 Jan 2008

Urban Sprawl Variants:
2b) 35m 20. Up face past bolts and #3 Camalot to bouldery crux. Continue up right into the corner. Step right when right wall steepens then up to belay. 3 bolts plus cams and wires.
4b) 35m 18. Take obvious crack 10m to the Right of Big City Life crux pitch. Continue up past friendly vegetation till possible to step left into BCL across slab. FA team climbed the crack direct to the top belay but its not reccomended.
FA: John Fischer (2b) and Simon Young (4b)

Suggested Gear:
Single 60m rope is fine. 12 quickdraws plus something for the belays as well as cams from fingers to #2 Camalot. For the variants take a set of wires and a #3 Camalot. A few medium hexes are handy, but not essential.

Nick Hancock has finished his project on the Columns, Mt Wellington:

*** Once in a Lifetime 55m 26 ↓
Nick's better half was doubtful about his ability to send this baby after three years of continual spanking! Rap in from the Daedalus bolts and swing left across face to a small ledge with DBB (60m abseil). Climb the arête left of Daedalus in one monster pitch via 19 bolts. Technical moves with good rests. Nick Hancock, Jan. 2008.

From Nick Hancock.
Flinders Island
Darling Range

**Roman Charity 25 7m
Follow the walking track north from Haulands Gap for 20 minutes until you see a group of beautiful boulders about 50 metres off the track to the right. Climb the left side of the slabby face of the half sphere shaped first boulder, to a belayless summit. Nick Hancock September 2006.

*Cimon 21 6m
The wide scary crack on the fourth boulder. Nick Hancock September 2006.

Sitting Target 20 10 m
About 250 metres south west of Sitting Goose Rock and on the other side of the shallow valley in a split pinnacle. Climb the wide crack on the south side to the ledge then up past a bolt to the summit. Nick Hancock September 2006.

Rocky Cape

*Cape Crusader 23 20m
Scramble north west from the boat ramp at Sisters Beach, for ten minutes, passing some slabby smooth sections, to a squat semi-detached pinnacle about 20 metres high, with a very overhanging northwest face. Climb steeply on great holds and solid rock to a rest beneath a horizontal roof. Swing out madly to a flared jam and up to a DBB on the very lip of the roof. 6 bolts. Nick Hancock & Andrew Geeves November 2006.

Sisters Beach

**Sister Superior 24 20m
Climb the steep wall just right of Roll on Responsibility, on good holds. 4 bolts to DBB.
Nick Hancock & Andrew Geeves November 2006.

West Coast
The Velvet Underground

*Sweet Jane 24 25m
Climbs the pillar with a wide horizontal break at half height, on the left side of the cliff. Technical moves past six glued carrots. Nick Hancock February 2006.

**Heroin 26 25m
1. 10m 26 Climb the very thin seam past two glued carrots to a belay on the right.
2. 15m 17 Follow the corner above trending left onto the arête to finish. Nick & Heather Hancock February 2006.

Sunday Morning Direct 24 30m
Climbs the overhanging groove direct to the slab, instead of traversing in from the left.
Nick Hancock February 2007.

Fortescue Bay
**The Golden Pillar of Fortescue Bay 24 60m
About ten minutes walk north from the Moai is a large orange arête easily visible from the track. Locate a pair of carrot bolts above this and abseil with a fixed rope, or if brave abseil in three pitches, from double bolts, using a single 60 metre rope. You will need eight hangers and a dozen draws, a No 5 Rock and Friends from 0 to 3. You can leave all the cams, except the 0 and 2 on the last belay, as this pitch is all trad. The rock is not as loose as it looks from above, but you will need a helmet.
Could be another pitch below?
1. 25m 24 Move up a slight flake crack on the right, via the 0 Friend, and pull left onto the arête at a fixed hanger. Climb with increasing difficulty via carrots and fixed hangers to a slight runout to the belay.
2. 25m 24 Continue up the arête on slightly worsening rock, where a 5 Rock eases tricky moves up to a short crack. Again there is a slight runout to the belay, but a 2 Friend helps.
3. 10m 19 Climb the groove to a carrot, then step right and go up a solid hand crack to the top. Steve Monks & Steve Findlay February 2003.

Any one have any info on the new bolt line to R of Third Bird first pitchs? Bolts don't look to be glued in yet.

Old Timers Buttress, Launceston Gorge
Up The Wall With Dennis 8m 19
Climb the face,arete to the right of Over The top With Jim.
3FH and DBB
Rob DeCesare Dennis Kearnes March 2008

Old Timers Buttress, Launceston Gorge
"You're Just A tired Old Man Dad" 9m 17
Start with the first move on Mr Natural then move right and up the blunt arete.
1 wire and 2FH DBB
Dennis Kearnes Rob DeCesare March 2008

Organ Pipes, Great Tier

*Shrapnel 23m 23
Follows the prow of a small buttress at the base of the gully just right of Great Tier (below the Arena). Layback the pillar for 5 meters to a ledge, step left then up the face trending right to follow the arête to the top of the buttress. No natural protection required, 9 FH to a DBB
Alan Williams & Campbell Godfrey, March 2008.

New Route on Whitewater Wall???
Well, an exciting 3rd pitch to Slaugterhouse Five.
Vonnegut's Finish, 10m 17 Bill Baxter and Will Van Den Bosch, 17/3/08.
After the main pitch, go up the corner for 3m to an horizontal crack that splits the steep wall on the left. Along this to the edge. Up the edge for a tenuous mantleshelf move to finish.

New climb from Phil Robinson - Bruny Island.
***Quintessence 50m 16
R of Philadelphia Sidewalk. The left of the three thin lines. Nice clean line, position and climb.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, C. Hewer 16/3/08

Hi All,

A couple of new routes on the Baleen for anyone that's interested. The first ascents of the following two routes were headpoints, i.e. They had loose rock, looked hard and didn't seem to have much protection so we top roped them first!

 FYI At this time of year the cliffs looses the sun about 12:00. You'll be climbing in shorts and a T-Shirt when the suns on the cliff and woollies when it disappears so be prepared.

Both these routes are located just to the right of the large pedestal in the center of the Baleen. They start on a ramp 5m up from the base of the wall and are easiest to access from the top. Located at the top in the middle of the cliffs length is a large cairn. To access theses climbs abseil down just to the east of the cairn.

A) ** Humpback 20 59m

Abseiling down 1m east of the cairn will send you straight down the line. If accessing from the base this is the 2^nd line right of the pedestal.

1)     25m 20 Technical climbing up the seam and arête, belay on the ledge just below the horizontal in the centre of the baleen.

2)     34m 20 Continue straight up the fused corner which opens up after about 10m, protection is adequate.

Kim Robinson*, Claire Hewer, March 2008*

B) ** Minke 22 61m*

Abseiling down 5m east of the cairn will send you straight down the line; a 60m abseil will reach the base on rope stretch. If accessing from the base this climbs the 3^rd and 4^th seems right of the pedestal.

1)     30m 22 A bit of everything, delicate bridging, arête climbing and jamming up the improbable twin seems. If you've approached from the base don't be concerned there is plenty of gear. Belay on the ledge which runs across the centre of the baleen.

2)     31m 19 Continue up the twin cracks.

Kim Robinson, Claire Hewer, March 2008

 
 
Cheers,
Kim

Hi Kim, Have added those two. Can you check if they are in the right place, and send a copy of the photo (higher res if you have one) to Jon? Anyone got a really good photo of t