Cataract Gorge - Shady Side
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Acknowledgement | by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets. | ||||||
Introduction | The popular walk up on the north side of The Gorge hosts a few good climbs for those hot sunny days that abound in Launceston. These climbs are described left to right due to the tyrannical nature of the former chief editor of Craglets, i.e from the restaurant downhill to the bridge even though most of you will be walking the other way. So if you start at the end of these descriptions and read back to here it will make more sense. The distances are measured in leisurely steps. If you are taller or shorter or in a hurry then adjust accordingly. | ||||||
Access | For access/general details, see the section on the Cataract Gorge - Sunny Side. |
These first two climbs are above the track about 160 steps from the sign that says “Cataract Walk”. Just step off the fence and onto the climb. DBB on top.
Nymphogranuloma 10m 17 The jamb crack 2m to the left of The Trap with a block in the crack at the top. Narkowicz, 1982.
The Trap 10m 22 4Þ Step off the rails and on to the black face with 4 FH, 70 steps on from the Prince of Darkness abseil point. Ng, 1991.
The shonky looking bolts right of this climb are not a climb, they have been placed by the council to monitor rock movement. They should NOT be clipped for climbing purposes.
70 steps downstream from The trap or 15 steps upstream of the stairs to the lookout is a light pole. Abseil down the sloping ledge beneath this to the platform 15m below
King of Pain 15m 24 The upstream most of this trilogy of climbs. Climb the features to a hand crack at mid-height then continue on up the arête. Fox, Tierney, DeCesare, 2001.
Prince of Darkness 15m 21 The climb ascends the blocky crack in the middle of the buttress to a small roof then up a thin crack to the sloping ledge. McMahon, Narkowicz 1982.
Queen of Salsa 15m 20 Start 2m right of POD and head up the ramp to the off-width which can be climbed with-out having to resort to any off-width techniques and then up the top face. Fox, Luna, DeCesare, 2001
From the bottom of the stairs leading up to the look-out you can look downstream and up the hill to see a tall buttress with 2 cracks on it.
The One That Got Away 8m 22 A short finger crack, not visible from the walkway, on the right of the buttress opening up at the top. McMahon, Smart 1982.
140 steps from the stairs to the lookout are 2 huge pines on the uphill side of the footpath. Coming from Double Dozen Cliff it is also about 140 steps. The next climb is 10m behind pines.
140 steps from the stairs to the lookout are 2 huge pines on the uphill side of the footpath. Coming from Double Dozen Cliff it is also about 140 steps. The next climb is 10m behind pines.
Anopheles 12m 23 2 eye-bolts to finger crack and pro. Stick clip the first eye-bolt. Looks like it could do with another dose of agent orange. DBB. Fox, Tierney, 1996.
Up above this climb is a small buttress with 2 climbs on it. Access via Anopheles or scrambling up on the right.
Dirichnum Rectum 8m 16 The thin crack opening towards the top on the blunt arête 3m right of Ned. DBB. DeCesare, Kearnes, 2001.
When you reach a large landing with a picnic table and seats then you’ve found the Double Dozen buttress. On the other side of the river is Gabriel Buttress. When the tide is out you can cross over from here. These are some of the best climbs on this side of the gorge
Afternoon Delights 11m 17 About 25 steps upstream from the main Double Dozen Buttress is a hand crack opening up to off hands at the top. DBB. Smith, Cover, 1980.
Double Dozen 11m 22 Boulder problem start to the steep crack then exit out right of the block at the top. Add a grade for the direct finish. DBB. Moorehead, 1981.
No Right Turn 11m 24 Up the thin double cracks on the right above the “booga” graffiti. DBB. Parsons, 1981.
Pipedreams 10m 22 3Þ Walk up the right side of Double Dozen Buttress and climb up the fixed rope to the old pipes. Follow these pipes to your right. All up it’s 30m from Future World. Up pillar past 3 FH to a DBB. Fox, Jones, 2001.
Another 95 steps upstream from the hut with the funny looking concrete tree trunks is a slab that leads up to a 12m 2 climbs on it. It is also 95 steps downstream from the Double Dozen Buttress The first climb is on the face looking upstream.
Moreheads Corner 9m 24 Visible from the walk-way it is the left hand crack on the upstream face 4m left of the very thin twin cracks (which are waiting a first ascent). DBB way over the back. Morehead, Dignan 1982.
Road to the Lost City 10m 22 Þ Originally called Pipeline, but known by the above name for many years. It is 15m around the corner from Morehead’s Corner and easy to identify now because the council has put cables over a potentially loose boulder at the top. Climb the left hand crack/corner then traverse right onto the black face past 3 bolts and the macrame. DBB. Ng and Vincent 1992. A direct start has been done at the same grade (for tall people) but doesn’t add much to the climb.
Across the gully on the upstream side of the Road to the Lost City buttress is a single pillar. Access by scrambling up the gully on the left of Moreheads Corner and then heading left just before where the 2 pipes cross over.
Access - either from the top of Road to the Lost City go 50m uphill and slightly downstream or scramble up the gully on the upstream side of Road to the Lost City, go past the crossed over pipes and then go right to walk along the single pipe for 30m. From here the buttress is visible 40m uphill and slightly downstream. Short climbs but worth a visit if you’re in the area.
Head downstream another 50m from Left Kohoutek staying on the same level and crossing the head of a gully. Alternatively from the hut with the concrete tree trunks head directly up the hill for 60m.
In Cahouts 8m 24 Climb the fused corner for 2m before moving out to the left arête for another 2m and then back to the crack. Sound contrived, but who knows I haven’t done it. Fisher 1997.
Lazy Mahout 8m 24 Þ The arete right of In Cahouts with 3 FH and a 1 friend at the top. DBB. Fox, DeCesare, 2002.
Now back on the tourist track 55 steps upstream from the hut with the fake cement tree trunks is the next climb. It is also 40 steps downstream from the ramp leading to Road to the Lost City.
Gold 101 10m 21 Climb up the easy face to a ledge with a DBB. These are actually to facilitate measuring of rock movement and were placed by council. Nice of them hey! Move right around the arete to a black face with a thin crack up it. Climb this then move left at half height to an easier crack to finish at a DBB. Narkowicz, 1983.
From the picnic shelter walk 40 steps downstream to be level with a small block of rock 10m above the track with an off-width (grade 19 if you have to do it) up the right side.
Sanctity 10m 24 A natural pro sports route. This route is yet to see an ascent placing gear on lead. Otherwise it’s something of a hassle since you have to rap down to pre-place gear! Climb the face left of the off-width heading left at the top. Narkowicz, 1999.
30 steps further downstream is another small pinnacle with an even smaller conifer in front of it. It’s possible to see the shiny hangers of this route from the track in front of Sanctity.
If you feel like a bit of a scrub bash you can now head up the footpads 35 steps upstream from the New Move that lead to small buttress above the arêtes. Discovered by Narkowicz just after McMahon published the Cataract guide they destroyed once and for all the notion of a definitive guide book.
Another Poxy Route for the Next Edition 8m 24 The very thin crack left of the chimney. Narkowicz, 2000.
Back down on the tourist track 115 steps on from History Maker you will reach a series of 3 pillars with bolted climbs going up the arêtes of each.
Schizo 9m 25 The same pillar as The New Move just sticking to the upstream face. Contrived but fun and the tourists won’t know the difference. 2 FH to the same DBB as The New Move. Fox, Tiz, 2002.
Revival Arete /Telecum /The New Move 9m 20 2Þ Call it what you will just do it! 2 eye-bolts to a DBB. Narkowicz (solo), back in the Jurassic era.
Ivy Crack 10m 23 A thin crack that opens up to hand crack towards the top. It’s climbability is often threatened by the encroachment of ivy. People have been threatening to clean it out for years. You could be the one. Fantini, Smith, 1980.
10 steps downstream from Ivy Crack is a project up the bolted corner. Around the corner from this is the next climb.
Six Agile Men 15m 17 Þ Climb the corner or boulder up the arête 10 steps from FTA. Continue up the slab past a tree branch and 3 bolts to a DBB. Fox and 5 agile men, 2001.
Fighting the Authorities 7m 19 Þ Up past 2 FH on the left of the arete. Same DBB as TMMT. Selby, 1999.
The Magical Mousey Tour 9m 25 Þ Around the arête from FTA or 20 steps upstream from POTR. 2FH. Starts in the corner, under the roof. Up to clip the first bolt, then out left onto the face and up. DBB. Learmont, 1999.
Path of the Righteous 10m 23 More like “path of the idiotic”. When concerns were raised about the poor bolting quality (protruding carrots and lack of lower offs) on this climb the first ascentionist saw fit to hack them off but not replace them with something better. If you really want to solo it (or better yet, if an altruistic individual retro-bolts it) the route starts 15 steps from FTA on an face left of a small roof around the arete from Heckle. Narkowicz, 1999.
Heckle 10m 15 The off-width that hits you in the face as you walk from the toll gate. 155 steps from the start of the bottom end of the track. For those interested in history McMahon thinks this may have been the first climb done in the Gorge. DBB. McMahon and McHugh, 1972.
Access: See map. Council has also very nicely placed distance markers on the track starting at the Suspension bridge. These make handy guides to the climbs.
Access: From the first bridge on the Duck Reach track stand and look at the cliff. Straight in front of you is an orange and black face with two FH. This is Ice Cream. Above this and slightly downstream is a large block with 3 FH this is Shiloh. The face on your immediate left is Zerubbabel and Spooksville.
Zerubbabel 10m 19 Climb the blank face to the horizontal break, which is only 16 if you have the reach, then continue up. Narkowicz, McMahon, 2000.
Spooksville 10m 19 The next route right up the stepped scoop. Originally done with a piton runner. Narkowicz, Bennet, McMahon, 2001.
Ice Cream 15m 19 2Þ Cause it tastes so good. By which ever way appeals to you climb on to the grassy ledge beneath the black and orange face with 2 bolts. Climb this to crack and then up to the DBB.
There are obviously a few climbs possible in the amphitheatre right of Ice Cream. This next climb is on the pillar on the right and above the amphitheatre. Access either by climbing up to it or scrambling up from the upstream end of the bridge.
Not By Might 8m 18 Climb the face and thin crack protected by small wires. Requires a degree of commitment so may be beyond most blokes. Worth doing so you can get to the next two climbs which are must do’s if you have an interest in the obscure. Narkowicz, McMahon, 2000.
Treasures in Heaven 5m 22 20m up hill from Not By Might is a pinnacle with one bolt. Take a wire as well. Narkowicz 2001.
Disproportionate Destruction 5m 22 Þ 20 m further up hill and upstream from Treasures in Heaven is another little boulder with 2 bolts. Use your ingenuity for the belay. Narkowicz 2001.
The 50 m of track from marker 4 contains some excellent climbing combined with easy access. A Prophet’s Reward is visible from the track just before you get to marker 4. The crack and off-width on the left may look appealing but don’t be mislead. Climb the bolts to the right instead. Best access is by scrambling up the track just past the marker.
A Prophets Reward 9m 23 4Þ The only reward you’ll get here is a good pump. Excellent climbing just beware of knocking anything down on to the tourist track and the unsuspecting public. Climb up past 4 FH to a DBB. Narkowicz 2001.
On the upstream end of the wooden bridge just after marker 4 is a large buttress. Access by climbing down off the bridge or walking across the gully from the downstream end of the bridge.
Supratentorial 10m 24 3Þ Up arete past 2 U-bolts to horizontal break (1/2 friend) then up thin crack past another U-bolt to DBB. Worth doing at 21 by pulling on the first bolt. Fox, Kearnes, 2002.
Allodynia 12m 22 5Þ Climb up the face past the two eye-bolts to the horizontal break and the up the thin crack passing 2 more eye bolts. Keep going over the bulge past a U bolt to a DBB. Fox, Kearnes, 1996.
Aldente 12m 17 Step off the bridge onto the large hand crack and corner 2m right of Allodynia, or if you really must, go all the way to bottom to start.
Access: from the top of the stairs after Allodynia step over the fence and walk over to the she-oaks hanging over the cliff. There is a DBB which raps straight over Big Norm’s Blouse.
Victim of Circus Pants 10m 23/24 4Þ Superb, pumpy climbing up the face from the ledge on the left of Big Norm’s Blouse. Climb the crack on the right of the face then clip the first U-bolt and continue left past another 3 U-bolts to a DBB. DeCesare, Fox, 2002.
Big Norm’s Blouse 15m 20 3Þ Although it’s tempting to only rap to the ledge, and climb the face past 3 FH, you actually get better value if you go all the way to the ground and wack some gear into the crack at the bottom. Selby, 1999.
Lady Midnight’s Daughter 15m 15 The corner 2m to the right of Norm’s Blouse which goes up to a flake/off-width. Actually climbs very nicely.
Little Gerry’s Knickers 8m 18 Climb the twin cracks 4m right of Lady Midnight’s Daughter to the ledge then step right at the FH and over the top.
Ground Zero 7m 25 4Þ Not exactly clip or die with 4 FH and a DBB but good and powerful. Continue straight up the arete above Little Gerry’s Knickers. Narkowicz, 2001.
Root and Kill 17m 23 Look for a flaring crack that blanks out after about five meters, spot the bolt above this and your there. The crack to the bolt, then right to gear, back left to another bolt then up past bulge to DBB. Bissett, Tierney, 1997.
Max the Killer Kelpie 17m 18 Just right of R&K is a broken looking face. Climb this to a slot, then over the bulge to same DBB. Tierney, Bissett, 1997.
The next two climbs are above Allodynia Buttress and best accessed by scrambling up the slope 10m past the top of the stairs after Allodynia.
Fat Alex 6m 21 2Þ Another exercise in curiousity value. Visible from the track as pinnacle on the skyline 40m above Allodynia Buttress. 2 FH, the first can be tricky to reach. Single bolt belay on top. Narkowicz, 2001.
Glory and Power 8m 24 From the top of the stairs an orange buttress with a FH on the face is visible 40 m uphill and slightly upstream. Climb the crack up to the first FH then up to the horizontal break (1.5 cam) then move left to the 2nd FH. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.
Glory With-out Power 8m 21 From the second horizontal break of Gloey and Power move right and continue up past a FH. Less contrived than GAP especially if you don’t have the reach for the 2nd bolt. Fox, DeCesare, Bissett, 2002.
Finger Frolic 10m 23 4Þ Line of four left trending eye-bolts visible 10m up the hill when standing at marker 5. Johnson, Sam, 1996.
White Water Arete 12m 19 3Þ Excellent climbing and a great discovery by young Alex. At marker 5 turn and look downstream at the river. You will see 3 FH on the edge of a pinnacle 20m away. Scramble down to the base then climb up past 3 FH and a 3 cam. DBB. Wilson, 2001.
Max Steel 8m 24 3Þ 30m past marker 5 if look up between the boulders you will see an orange face with 3 FH on it. Best access is to scramble up 10m back. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.
Howard’s Shield 7m 23 3Þ Sound’s like some kind of IUD. 150m past marker 6 there is a lump of rock very close to the track. On the right side is 3 FH. The first FH can be clipped by climbing the ledge on the left. Heck so can the second. Worth doing if you’re there. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.
Day of Infamy 9m 24 At marker 9 head up hill for 40m. The face with 1 FH is just visible from the track. Climb past FH to thin crack. Narkowicz, 2001.
Access: 50m past marker 10, just before the track steepens to go up the switch back, jump over the fence and go down to the river. From here walk upstream for 100m. Hangman’s Noose is the very obvious prow.
Dead on Arrival 12m 26 4Þ Up over the roof past 4 FH being careful not to impale yourself on the 3rd one. DBB way over the back. Matthew Mann, 2002.
Sixty Metre Zoom Lense 12m 23 4Þ Either traverse in from the left or the right or go straight up it the river is down. The face with 4 FH 3m right of Hangman’s Noose, meeting it at the same DBB. Narkowicz, 2002.
One False Move and the Lights Go Out 14m 17 Up the blocky chimney and then up the left hand crack. Mick Ling et al 1983.
Fridge Lifting 101 23 4Þ Arete/Pillar on the far RH side of the buttress just right of Waiting to be Blown Away. Classic arête climbing with a couple of "Fridge Lifting" moves in the middle. At the fourth bolt there is the option of moving right and turning the arête into a layback. Optional wire for the last move over the top. Rap Chains at the top. Ian Ferrier 13/11/07.
10m downstream from marker 14. Jump over the fence and you should see some DBB on the edge of the tier 2m below. Rap off these to the ledge 10m below.
Utterly Meaningless 8m 16 From the main ledge go left on to the grassy ledge and then climb the thin corner. Narkowicz, 2001.
Fear God and His Commandments 10m 24 Þ Excellent climbing up the bolted corner then traverse right to finish up the overlap and crack passing more iron mongery and a fixed wire. Narkowicz, 2001.
Remember Your Creator 10m 24 4Þ Improbable climbing up the blunt arete past 4 FH. Worth pre-clipping the first one. Hard to avoid moving right in places but worthwhile if you can. Narkowicz, 2001.
Lots of ways to get to this face which has got some of the longest and most enjoyable climbs in the South Esk. The quickest way is to park at Duck Reach and walk back down the river on the track till you get to marker 15. 60 steps down river from there you should see a tree with a chain around it (provided some well meaning idiot hasn’t removed it). Alternatively you can walk up from the First Basin and 60 steps past marker 14 see the same tree. Or if you want to be different you can walk in from the Denison Grove car park. This has the advantage of taking you past the Retirement Village cliff. Abseil from the tree to the base of the cliff which is 35m. There are 2 rap stations on the ledge 10m down if you don’t have an extra rope.
Cop That To The Max 25m 19 If you rapped in from the downstream rap station you would have passed directly over this climb. Scramble up slab to broken crack then move left to slab. Up past FH to off-finger crack in the corner and up to DBB. Scramble up right on grassy ledges then climb the crack which leads back to the rap tree. Hyland, Tristram, 2001.
Rampaging Roy 25m 21 The same start and the same finish as CTTTM. Up slab to broken crack but then blast straight up thin twin cracks to join CTTTM at the off-finger crack. DeCesare, Fox, 2002.
H.G. Nelson Memorial Route 25m 20 Þ Once again start up the slab as for Cop that to the Max but continue right to the thin corner with 5 FH. Fox, DeCesare, Tiz, 2002.
Club Buggery 23m 23 Þ Start 3m to the right of Cop that to the Max. Up downstream facing corner past 2 FH then continue up broken crack system past 5 more FH to DBB. Fox, DeCesare, Tiz, 2002.
From the carpark at the top of Denison Grove walk down the path to the Duck Reach track. After about 200m you should see a big cairn on your right. Head across to this and then continue down to the pipeline. Walk along this for 20m and you will be at the top of the Retirement Village.
Dementia 10m 18 The obvious off-width with a hidden finger crack on the inside. Luckily no fist jamming is required. Up this to the ledge and then continue up thin crack and face to DBB.
