Bruny Island
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Acknowledgement | By Tony McKenny (With additional contributions from P. Robinson, I. Snape and B. Baxter) | ||||||
Introduction | South Bruny Island has a number of stunning sea cliffs that are relatively easily accessible from Hobart. The rock is dolerite, ranging from the off-vertical cliffs of the Lighthouse area, to the soaring, and largely unclimbed, vertical corners, faces and stacks on the east side. Like all coastal cliffs, routes may need some cleaning before use but generally the rock is good. However, the top of most cliffs is loose and unconsolidated and needs particular care. As great a danger is probably wave action, particularly when a southerly is blowing, although most cliffs explored so far have at least some climbs accessible at any state of the tide. There are still many lines and crags to be explored but the drive from Hobart, and the cost of the ferry fare, may deter the masses. | ||||||
Access | From the Ferry terminus (timetable published daily in the Mercury) drive south on the B66 past the Neck to the road junction where the C630 turns off left to Adventure Bay. For the Lighthouse Cliffs, continue as far south as you can, via Lunawanna, to the Lighthouse. Parking is available close by (approximately 2hr from Hobart if coordinated with the car ferry). NB The gate to the lighthouse area is closed from 4.30pm till 9.30 am. For Fluted Cape and the Bruny Stack, turn left on the C630 and drive to the south end of Adventure Bay Beach. Park entry fees apply and passes are available from the D'Entrcasteaux Visitors Centre at Kettering, or at registration booths at the Neck and the Lighthouse Road (Mable Bay). |
Camping | The nearest campsite to the Lighthouse area is a couple of kilometres before the lighthouse at Great Taylors Bay, on the right down Jetty Road (signposted). Bush toilets are available but bring your own water.Accommodation is also available in the old Lighthouse Keepers Cottages run by Andy and Beth Gregory. Call in and see them, they can also advise on access and prevailing weather conditions.
For Adventure Bay, there are numerouse B and Bs available, and camping at the Adventure Bay Camp Ground: accommodation can be heavily booked in the summer season. |
Follow the open ridge top through the burnt areas (2002) N. W. from the Lighthouse gate and scramble down the steep slope to the Bay. About 30 minutes.
Lest We Forget 45m 17 Excellent crack climbing, death on a stick finish. Start by soloing round to the left onto the large ledge. May be difficult in a high sea. The climb follows a sinuous groove at the left hand edge of the ledge, where the kelp starts. Belay back on the dry part of the ledge. 1) 45m Step across to the bottom of the crack, trying to keep your feet dry. Straight up the crack to the top. Ideally you would place a bolt here and abseil off: more likely you will fight your way through vertical crud to the top, wishing fervently you were somewhere else. (It may be preferable to belay at half height to give you enough rope to get through the crud at the top). T. & J. McKenny, 25 Apr. 2003.
Jingerbread Haven 70m 15 Interesting climbing marred by loose rock. Start approximately 10m from the water, an obvious black overhang 8m above.
1) 35m Climb the crack passing the overhang on the left. Follow the line past a huge loose block to a jam-crack (crux) which leads to a ledge on the left.
2) 35m Climb crack for 3m, traverse right under a projecting rock to easier but steep unconsolidated ground on a vegetated slope (sounds dreadful!). K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, 22 Apr.1979.
1) 35m Climb the crack passing the overhang on the left. Follow the line past a huge loose block to a jam-crack (crux) which leads to a ledge on the left.
2) 35m Climb crack for 3m, traverse right under a projecting rock to easier but steep unconsolidated ground on a vegetated slope (sounds dreadful!). K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, 22 Apr.1979.
Two cliffs, one 32m high and the other 50m, have been visited here but other smaller buttresses would also probably yield some climbs. The rock is unusual for dolerite as the cliffs are all off-vertical, providing less strenuous and gentler climbing than is typical for this type of rock.
Walk up towards old lighthouse and head off left across the paddocks just after you pass the generator sheds, towards the new solar powered lighthouse. Cut down to the bay on the right (Courts Bay) and follow the shoreline back west to the crag. This cliff cuts the beach at right angles and features a series of shallow, gentle-angled square cut grooves. A prominent feature is a short broken ramp about 6m up, almost above the high water mark. There is a fixed abseil point above Tandoori: use at your own discretion!
1. I'll Make Nutmeat Out of You 30m 12 Traverse left from Lifespice for 10m to a line beginning where there is a pale coloured rock-scar. Dave James and Matt Jones, Jan. 2002.
2. Shovels of Cumin 25m 11 From the high water mark, traverse left for 2 metres under an overhang and follow the cracks to the top. Dave James and Matt Jones, Jan. 2002.
3. Lifespice 27m 14 Bridges up the open corner to the left of the ramp and finishes up the obvious hand crack that splits the top of the buttress. Good climbing. Dave James and Matt Jones, Jan. 2002.
4. Tandoori 25m 10 Climb to the ramp and ascend the crack that leads from its right hand end to the top of the cliff. L. Wood, P. Bigg, 20 July 1976.
(The two short cracks to the left of Tandoori have been climbed at around 10 - 12 by Bill and Patrice Baxter, Feb. 2004.)
5. Chilli, Chilli Sauce 25m 18 The narrow arête right of Tandoori. Great position with blankish sections at the top where 'pro' can be found in the Tandoori crack immediately to the left. T. McKenny, P. Robinson, 13 Mar. 2004.
7. Steamed Rice 26m 17 The wide arête on the right. Classy climbing. I. Snape, C. Cole, 16 June 2001.
8. 1.5 Groove 22m 12 Climbs the wide corner, bridging to the top. C. (Basil) Rathbone, C Strang, 28 June 1976.
Annapurna Special 22m 14 Climbs the twin cracks in the left hand side of the corner to the top. J. Mckenny, T. Meldrum &. T. McKenny, 16 Dec. 2002.
9. Shish Kebab 22m 12 A narrow groove immediately to the right of the 1.5m Groove. L. Wood, P. Bigg, 20 July 1976.
10. Lassie 22m 12 The dirty-looking crack on the right, which is surprisingly not too bad a climb. T. McKenny, V. Van de Vusse, P. Robinson, 13 Mar. 2004.
11. Nosy Goreng 22m 12 Left of "Shezan" (the prominent V groove) is a wide shallow 'chimney'. The groove on the nose immediately left of this, initially very loose but has been cleaned. P. Robinson, C Rathbone, 19 May 1979.
12. Stackless 22m 12 The crack on the right side of the shallow chimney, immediately left of Shezan. P. Robinson, T. McKenny, 13 Mar 2004.
13. Shezan 20m 15 The classic V groove with an obvious hand jam crack running through an area of red rock. L. Wood, P. Bigg, 20 July 1976.
The ridge of Curry Cliff leads down to a point where the following small climb is located. Either traverse round over the water from Lifespice, or climb one of the standard routes and scramble down from above. The following climb is to the right of the small gulch.
Skullduggery 9m 15 At the lefthand of the ledge is a left facing corner and leaning hand crack. A touch awkward. Dave James and Matt Jones, April 2002.
Between the Curry Cliff and the High Court Cliff are two small buttresses; the second nearer the big cliff has two routes. Descend to the left via a large block.
Lets Get Personal 15m 15 The corner nearest the sea. The sloping corner leading to a colourful face then belay on prow. Dave James and Rhiannon Arkins, April 2001.
Guilty Your Honour 14m 6 The corner up and immediatly right of LGP. Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001.
Situated 5-10 minutes walk south of the lighthouse. From the lighthouse, follow the track down toward Courts Island for a hundred metres and then head diagonally left to a steep bushy gully leading down to the base of the crag. Alternatively (and probably better), from the top of the gully follow the cliff top round to the right and down through bushes to a cairn. Descend via a 50-metre abseil from some apparently solid boulders above Ocean Highway. The rest of the cliff top is unsafe.
1. All in Good Tide 50m 18 On the waters edge, a sky rocketing 50-metre pitch, a classic, must do, climb. Climb the two thin cracks, approx. one metre apart, in the open corner. Take plenty of small/medium cams and nuts... it's a long way! P. Robinson, S. Scott, 5 Feb. 2004.
2. It's All in the Mind 50m 17 The arête immediately right of "All in Good Tide" and left of Ocean Highway. A direct line straight up the buttress. Atmospheric, a bumper climb. P. Robinson, K. Robinson, 29 Oct. 2006.
3. Ocean Highway 50m 14 The next corner crack to the right. A fine direct crack line. C. Rathbone, P. Robinson, 19 May1979.
4. Out of the Shadow 50m 15 1.5m right of Ocean Highway, the obvious corner crack. Move onto the buttress at the very top to avoid the vegetation. P. Robinson, M. Steane, 14 Apr. 1979.
5. Shadow Variant 50m 14 Approximately two thirds of the way up Out of the Shadow, step right and follow next line up loose blocks to the top. M. Steane, P. Robinson, 13 Apr. 1979.
6. Anty-Falaxis 50m 17 Next line right, twin cracks followed by a long intimidating V-corner, which is climbed with help from the crack on the left. S. Scott, P. Robinson, 5 Feb. 2004.
7. Philadelphia Sidewalk 50m 15 At the bottom of the grassy slope is a large blankish section of the cliff with three thin cracks. Climbs the obvious line to the L of these, bridging up a groove. P. Bigg, S. Parsons, Oct. 1978.
8. Quintessence 50m 16 The left of the three thin lines. Nice clean line, position and climb. P. Robinson, K. Robinson, C. Hewer 16 Mar. 2008
9. Philadelphia Freeway 50m 18 Up the centre of the three cracks. Turn the bush a few metres from the top by stepping R into the next line. A good looking line. P. Bigg, S. Parsons, Oct. 1978.
10. Wish You Were Here 40m 15 Approximately 8m uphill from the foot of the mud slope are twin cracks, 60cm apart, up a corner. When the cracks run out, move onto the left buttress. M. Steane, P. Robinson, 14 Apr. 1979.
11. Easter Aftermath 40m 12 Further up the hill (10m) are two open "chimneys". The route takes the left-hand one. Belay at base of the crack on the left, beneath the chimney. Up the crack for 10m to grassy ledge, then bridge up chimney to exit past bush at top. P. Robinson, M. Steane, 14 Apr. 1979.
A short walk down the ridge southwest from the Lighthouse leads to the causeway across to Courts Island, which hosts a mutton-bird rookery. At low tide you can walk or wade across (about 50m) but difficulty may be experienced at high tide or in rough sea. Check at the Keepers Cottage if in doubt.
After crossing the causeway walk south (left) along the shoreline towards the cliffs. Approximately 100m from where the cliffs meet the sea is an obvious short, clean line consisting of twin cracks. Looks harder than it is!
Belay in the burrow 60m 12 1) 20m Up twin cracks to belay on ledge above jammed blocks.
2) 40m Follow broken rock and vegetated slope to top. No belay except for mutton-bird burrows. Use a threaded sling or rope. (May be better to abseil from top of first pitch). P. Robinson, K Bischoff , 21 Apr.1979.
2) 40m Follow broken rock and vegetated slope to top. No belay except for mutton-bird burrows. Use a threaded sling or rope. (May be better to abseil from top of first pitch). P. Robinson, K Bischoff , 21 Apr.1979.
Walk over to the far southern tip of the Island. On the southeast side of the tip, above a deep gulch, are some impressive looking cliffs, rising from a shore platform. The routes may be best viewed from the N E side of the gulch.
Probably best to abseil down the loose choss from the very end of the point to the wavecut platform and then scramble back round to the east towards the gulch, preferably at low tide and/or calm sea.
Probably best to abseil down the loose choss from the very end of the point to the wavecut platform and then scramble back round to the east towards the gulch, preferably at low tide and/or calm sea.
Shearwater 45m 12 Walk round shelf into the gulch to a small but distinct triangular roof at about 3 m, at the widest point of the shelf, just before it ends. The climb starts 2m to the left, up the obvious crack. Bridge and jam to the top, passing a ledge on the left at half height. P. Robinson, K. Bischoff 21 Apr. 1979. (Probably the line of Canute climbed by J. McKenny, T. McKenny 16 Dec. 2002)
The cliffs on the seaward side north of the gulch are reached by abseil to a shore platform (facing N E)
Tidal Temerity 40m 15 Follow a clean narrow corner for 30m to the ledge. The crack closes near the top. From the ledge climb easily to the top. C. Rathbone, P. Robinson, J. Wills-Johnson, K. Bischoff, 19 May 1979.
The eastern side of South Bruny Island is fringed by spectacular, massive, dolerite sea cliffs, rising up to 200m high. The area is extremely exposed to the wind and waves of the Tasman Sea and access is generally difficult. Two areas have been climbed on to date but there is massive potential for future exploration.
Take the turn off to Adventure Bay (C630) to reach Fluted Cape. The walking track begins at East Cove, the southern most part of Adventure Bay Beach. There is free camping at Neck Beach, Cloudy Bay and Jetty Beach, or you can pay to camp at the Adventure Bay Holiday Village.
Park entry fees apply and passes are available from the D'Entrcasteaux Visitors Centre at Kettering, or at registration booths at the Neck and the Lighthouse Road (Mable Bay).
Follow the Grass Point track to the open grassland at the end of the point (ignore the first sign you pass on the R to Fluted Cape) before turning back south to climb steeply up past the cliff tops (signposted).
On the way up, heading south and after passing a solitary pillar on the left, there is a steep dirty descent gully about 100m before the big Parched Pillar cliff. The surrounding cliffs are vertical and up to 150 m high and there are many excellent lines here, though the rock is often suspect. Inspection on abseil is advised.
Quick Drink 15m 16 Good clean finger crack on the RHS of the descent gully (facing the cliff). I. Snape, C. Cole, 15 June 2001.
Further round, there are a series of prominent lines that cut the main wall. Two of these lines, close together, run up the centre of the wall. With the removal of much loose rock, the face has yielded two interesting and pleasant excursions up this spectacular face.
Bombs Away Dreambaby 100m 18 Takes the LH of the two lines. Well-protected and consistent throughout its length. Scramble up to the base of the line and start at the base of a LH facing corner with a handcrack about 10m high with a small roof halfway up the corner.
1) 35m Up to the top of the corner, step R onto a ledge, straight up the crack above and then bridge and jam up the cracks above to belay at the base of the groove where the crack appears to widen.
2) 40m Straight up the crack (not as wide as it appears). Continue through the roof with the chockstone and then up the crack past the ledges to belay above the last roof which is adjacent to a tree.
3) 50m Trend L and meander towards the top of the cliff. R. MacMahon, N. Deka, Nov. 1989.
1) 35m Up to the top of the corner, step R onto a ledge, straight up the crack above and then bridge and jam up the cracks above to belay at the base of the groove where the crack appears to widen.
2) 40m Straight up the crack (not as wide as it appears). Continue through the roof with the chockstone and then up the crack past the ledges to belay above the last roof which is adjacent to a tree.
3) 50m Trend L and meander towards the top of the cliff. R. MacMahon, N. Deka, Nov. 1989.
Thin as a Lark's Skull 100m 17 The route follows the right hand line. Start by scrambling across at the foot of the wall to a small corner directly below the line.
1) 20m Move left, then right over large angular blocks to a substantial ledge with a small bush at the base of a square cut cleft capped by a large overhang.
2) 20m Hand jam up crack in left corner of cleft in roof. Move right and (crux) cross the overhang. Belay after a further 3m.
3) 25m Continue up the obvious groove/chimney. Exit left at the top to scrubby ledge at the base of a deep square cut gully.
4) 20m Ascend gully - more difficult than it appears.
5) 15m Climb up to sloping roof on left. Cross wall below the roof to very exposed position on rib. Climb crack to top (Aid used on first ascent to cross wall, subsequently freed. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, 1978.
1) 20m Move left, then right over large angular blocks to a substantial ledge with a small bush at the base of a square cut cleft capped by a large overhang.
2) 20m Hand jam up crack in left corner of cleft in roof. Move right and (crux) cross the overhang. Belay after a further 3m.
3) 25m Continue up the obvious groove/chimney. Exit left at the top to scrubby ledge at the base of a deep square cut gully.
4) 20m Ascend gully - more difficult than it appears.
5) 15m Climb up to sloping roof on left. Cross wall below the roof to very exposed position on rib. Climb crack to top (Aid used on first ascent to cross wall, subsequently freed. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, 1978.
Casuarina Chimney 54m 13 Gain access to the base of the obvious cliff line by traversing south over a steep ramp of bush and broken rock. Pass under the main wall, an inset section of more broken rock and a vague rib running up to a prominent pinnacle. Ascend left (south) of the rib to the base of the cliff line.
The route is about 10m left of the crack which separates the pinnacle from the main cliff.
1) 35m Climb the chimney over a chock stone and an overhang to a large ledge.
2) 20m Climb the obvious crack to top. L.J. Wood, A. Bowden, 4 Aug. 1975.
The route is about 10m left of the crack which separates the pinnacle from the main cliff.
1) 35m Climb the chimney over a chock stone and an overhang to a large ledge.
2) 20m Climb the obvious crack to top. L.J. Wood, A. Bowden, 4 Aug. 1975.
Blowfly 139m 14 M1 Traverse across scrubby ground at the base of the main wall. To the left of the main wall is a section of more broken rock with some vegetation on it. Start near the base of the crack which runs up the right hand side of a clean slab. There is a bush (!) at the base of the crack.
1) 23m Reach the crack from the left. Climb the crack to a step right onto the corner. Move round the corner and up to a scrubby gully to a ledge at the top of the crack.
2) 23m Traverse left past a small projecting flake and large tree into a corner with a jammed block below a small overhang. Climb the corner and obvious continuation of the line to a stance behind a large detached block.
3) 20m Climb the chimney to an awkward overhang at about 13m and the continuation of the line to a stance at the base of a corner with twin cracks.
4) 33m Move right into a deep chimney, climbing the right wall, past several large trees to a step left onto a large jammed block.
5) 20m Ascend a couple of metres to an awkward bulge and, using a sling for aid, move up to the right hand crack until a step right into a crack is possible. Climb this to two small trees at the right hand end of a sloping slab.
6) 20m Cross the slab to a large ledge and ascend the obvious line at the back of the ledge to the top of the cliff. L.J. Wood, A. Bowden, 1 Oct. 1975.
1) 23m Reach the crack from the left. Climb the crack to a step right onto the corner. Move round the corner and up to a scrubby gully to a ledge at the top of the crack.
2) 23m Traverse left past a small projecting flake and large tree into a corner with a jammed block below a small overhang. Climb the corner and obvious continuation of the line to a stance behind a large detached block.
3) 20m Climb the chimney to an awkward overhang at about 13m and the continuation of the line to a stance at the base of a corner with twin cracks.
4) 33m Move right into a deep chimney, climbing the right wall, past several large trees to a step left onto a large jammed block.
5) 20m Ascend a couple of metres to an awkward bulge and, using a sling for aid, move up to the right hand crack until a step right into a crack is possible. Climb this to two small trees at the right hand end of a sloping slab.
6) 20m Cross the slab to a large ledge and ascend the obvious line at the back of the ledge to the top of the cliff. L.J. Wood, A. Bowden, 1 Oct. 1975.
Parched Pinnacle 143m 15 "Varied climbing and exhilarating situations in magnificent surroundings"
Start at the base of Blowfly. Pitches 1,2 and 3 are shared with Blowfly but take a more direct line.
1) 23m Climb the crack in the slab direct to a ledge with a large tree.
2) 20m Move left to a corner with a jammed block on top.
3) Up the continuation of the line past an overhang to a stance at the base of a square cut corner.
4) 27m Crux. Jam to the top of the corner and move up diagonally left to the gap at the base of the pinnacle.
5) 17m Chimney up between the pinnacle and the main face until the two merge. Flick a nut into the continuation of the line above and use this to gain the gap at the base of the detached portion of the pinnacle. Easily to the top of the pinnacle.
6) 13m Cross to the main face and move diagonally right over a few loose blocks. Turn the corner, step down and climb a finger crack to a large ledge.
7) 20m Finish up the obvious line at the rear of the ledge. L.J. Wood, P. Robinson, 21 Dec. 1976.
Start at the base of Blowfly. Pitches 1,2 and 3 are shared with Blowfly but take a more direct line.
1) 23m Climb the crack in the slab direct to a ledge with a large tree.
2) 20m Move left to a corner with a jammed block on top.
3) Up the continuation of the line past an overhang to a stance at the base of a square cut corner.
4) 27m Crux. Jam to the top of the corner and move up diagonally left to the gap at the base of the pinnacle.
5) 17m Chimney up between the pinnacle and the main face until the two merge. Flick a nut into the continuation of the line above and use this to gain the gap at the base of the detached portion of the pinnacle. Easily to the top of the pinnacle.
6) 13m Cross to the main face and move diagonally right over a few loose blocks. Turn the corner, step down and climb a finger crack to a large ledge.
7) 20m Finish up the obvious line at the rear of the ledge. L.J. Wood, P. Robinson, 21 Dec. 1976.
The next two routes are on an even more obscure buttress which is about 30mins. walk south of the main cliff. The buttress is just before the next major cliff (unclimbed) along the coast. On the face of the buttress are two opposing corner cracks, the one on the R ending at a roof at about 20m.
Sohrab 30m 19 Takes the LH line. Climb the crack for 6m, through a small roof and into a shallow corner. Up this until it ends, step L and up crack to finish. N. Deka, D. Stephenson, Sept. 1989.
Rustum 30m 20 The RH line. A bold route in the upper reaches. Climb the hand-crack in the corner up to the roof. Further L above the roof there is a crack to gain (crux) which is then followed to the top. D. Stephenson, N. Deka, Sept. 1989.
Details of the following routes are not yet known but further information would be gratefully received!
Vanity 19 Starts near Aquabat, crosses this line to a 20m traverse, under clinging to difficult off-width hand crack up wall above. S. Parsons and P. Bigg, 1978.
The Stack, rearing out of the sea and topped by a coronet of blocks, is a spectacular finger of rock, about 45m high and apparently precariously balanced. Access is difficult and only possible when there is little or no swell. From the Adventure Bay launch ramp, set a course north round Penguin Island and Green Point and then south heading past Fluted Cape towards Cape Connella. The Stack is located about 6 km down the coast (GR 307966) and a landing can be made at the base on any side, depending on the prevailing swell. However, there is little shelter and no mooring. Obviously, given this remote location, and the notoriously changeable weather, climbers should be prepared for a prolonged stay in case they are marooned (!), and should consider taking radios/emergency beacons. There is also a smaller, land-based pillar close by, the Fickle Finger.
Veni Vidi Vici 32m 16 A climb that was a long time in the making, over four years from when it was first mooted! The wave- cut platform that forms the base is littered with fallen blocks which attest to both the ferocious force of the wind and storm waves and to the quality of some of the rock. A helmet is strongly recommended.
Start in the centre of the north face, taking the middle line with a small roof at mid-height. Climb the short wall and then follow the crack to the loose roof. Move R to a wider crack, which is climbed for a metre or so until moves can be made L over the roof and back into the crack. Continue up to the "cave" high on the R arête, step L and climb the main face to finish between the blocks of the coronet. The large block to the R seems most stable for an abseil descent. Phil Robinson and Tony McKenny, Glen Kowalik (Skipper) and Jane Monaghan (First Mate). May 2008.
Start in the centre of the north face, taking the middle line with a small roof at mid-height. Climb the short wall and then follow the crack to the loose roof. Move R to a wider crack, which is climbed for a metre or so until moves can be made L over the roof and back into the crack. Continue up to the "cave" high on the R arête, step L and climb the main face to finish between the blocks of the coronet. The large block to the R seems most stable for an abseil descent. Phil Robinson and Tony McKenny, Glen Kowalik (Skipper) and Jane Monaghan (First Mate). May 2008.
Gallery
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Cliff on Quiet Bay
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High Court Cliff
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Curry Cliff
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High Court Cliff topo
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Bruny Stacks from the south. Photo: Tony McKenny
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