Here is a sneak preview of a bit of the first chapter of Adventures at the Edge of the World. Take note of the contents pages where you will a literary feast of most of the good stories that have ever been written about Tasmanian climbing, as well as a decade-by-decade summary of the history.
John passed away last week . Originally from Victoria, he was one of the “young “uns” of the 1960-70s, who climbed many new hard routes on the Organ Pipes and other Tasmanian cliffs as well as at Mt. Arapiles and across Victoria.
Climbing with Reg Williams, Phillip Stranger, Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst, John Ewbank, Bob Bull and many others, his legacy includes such classics on the Pipes as Ophthalmia, Nefertiti, Faust, Bismarck and the lovely Digitalis. Further afield he pioneered wilderness classics such as The Geryon Skyline Traverse (South to North), the massive Prometheus on Geryon East Face, and other stunning lines on the Guardians and the Acropolis. Next time you climb the immaculate Skink on the RH Watchtower Face at Araps, think of John, out there in 1966.
Later in life he turned his considerable talents to documentary film making, with a passion for social and historical justice, particularly in regard to indigenous issues.
Our sincere condolences to his family, and to all his many friends.
An invite to join the Climbers Affinity Group
of Extinction Rebellion Tasmania
We are all aware of the dangers facing the planet from global heating. The best science is warning us we are rapidly approaching tipping points and of the urgent need to drastically reduce CO2 emissions.
You have also probably heard of Extinction Rebellion (XR), which uses nonviolent, high publicity events in the UK, Australia and around the world to nudge governments into action.
XR is not affiliated to any political party or to any environmental movement – we just care deeply for our planet and are concerned at the complete lack of government response to this existential threat.
Our main aims are really very simple:
- Governments, tell us the truth about the current situation, and
- Create forums for the wider community to be involved in policy and decision making.
- Enact legislation urgently to reduce carbon emissions to zero by 2025.
The “Climbers Affinity Group” of XR is made up of Tasmanian climbers looking to carry out similar very visible but non-violent actions to raise public awareness. Our very first action was a banner on the southern outlet last week.
Our next one will be at the Parliament House lawn at midday Thursday, 8 of August when our declaration of intent will be delivered very publicly to our State Parliamentarians.
Come and join us then or, even better, join our group! We are looking for more members from around the State. We urge you to sign up here.
Jim Duff 0427468899
Need more convincing? Here is a video from one of the founders of XR in the UK
Hi tassie climbers
it has been a while since I’ve been in tassie climbing and I now have a 4 year old. Strangely I never really focused on suitable areas for climbing with a 4 year old in tow. Can anyone recommend anything? I’m planning on the hobart to north north east area. Prefer trad but beggars can’t be choosers season anything will do.
Thanks in advance! Erika
Check out the cover for Adventures at the Edge of the world - the history of Tasmanian climbing. We go to print next week, and copies will be available in late October. Hope the climbing community can make it to the book launch at the Duke of Wellington hotel on Friday 25th October with special guest speaker, Kim Carrigan.
"Many climbers have voiced concern about the future of climbing at Arapiles after seeing the dramas unfolding in the Grampians. Could similar bans happen at Arapiles? Is it all connected? Yes and yes. Let’s explain."
Please see more in the following link
Adventures at the Edge of the World - the epic story of Tasmanian climbing - is getting closer to print stage. This 540 page coffee table book on Tassie climbing has over 600 photos and 113 articles on the epic adventures of pioneer climbers. We should be able to go to print in early July, have a book by September and a book launch in October! Stay tuned for details of a crowd fund campaign in July. Simon Bischoff and I would love your support and need 200 people to pre-purchase the book via the crowd fund at $80 each, just to put a 50% deposit at the printing company. I'm hoping the whole Australian climbing community gets behind us as it will be of interest to all climbers, not just us Taswegians, as Simon's photos are stunning, and the stories are very inspiring. Thanks for taking the time to read this, and please support the crowd fund in July.
Just wondering if anyone had a copy of the old Rock mag with Bob McMahon's article about a route he did out on Eldon Bluff, would love to have a read or get a scan.
Anyone who has been out that way I would love to have a yarn about it.
Found: prescription sunglasses in hard case, at base of Tarzan, Balconies in BBQ area, Sand River.
Reposted for Andrew,
Bare Rock Access
Hi all, just a quick message to say that, due to increased traffic (and 8 years since I last properly fixed it), we are now at the point of having to do major repairs to the access road over the next few weeks. This work started today.
Part of the process is that (once we do all the drainage and then put the road material down) the material used needs to get quite wet (proper rain) and then dry for a number of days before it properly 'sets'. To use it before then will result in heaps of damage / erosion and us then needing to redo the whole thing. This will be quite a pricey project, so I am keen to not do it twice!
As such, can I please ask that any parties coming to Bare Rock over the next few weeks park at the very bottom of the driveway (just before the steep 'pinch' bit; about 200m from the white gate) and walk up the remainder of the way. Alternatively, you can drive to the top from Avoca or from West of Fingal at the roadwork site office.
Please also be sure to keep the neighbours road access clear at all times. This is essential.
I will post again when all is good, the road has dried and access can revert back to normal. Until then, thanks so much in anticipation of you all helping to look after what will hopefully be a much-improved drive to the cliff!?
Andrew & Alanna
From a Parks facebook post:
Facilities and walking tracks at Remarkable Cave to be upgraded
The Remarkable Cave site in the Tasman National Park will get a complete facelift, with new elevated pedestrian walkways to be installed, improvements made to vehicle parking and rehabilitation of the escarpment to protect the surrounding environment and improve sustainability.
Works will include an upgrade to 3.7km of walking track at Remarkable Cave, Crescent Bay and Mt Brown. Crescent Bay is a hidden gem on the Peninsula and this new track will make it more accessible, with Mt Brown as an exciting side trip.
The Remarkable Cave site and the track from Remarkable Cave to Crescent Bay and Mt Brown is expected to be closed from 1 May – 1 October 2019 to ensure public safety during construction. Work has been timed to avoid the peak visitor period.
These upgrades will allow visitors to enjoy better facilities and improved short and part-day walks to spectacular coastal locations in the area, while better protecting the environment as visitor numbers increase.
I've lost a titanium wedding ring somewhere between the Fruehauf crag and the car park on the evening of 25th April. Please contact me if you come across it - 0428539198.
Hello. Do Tasmanian climbers have an association – not a club – that tackles climbing access issues in national parks, rserves and forests? If so, could you tell me its name and how I get in touch with it, please?
Victorian climbers have just launched the ACA V (Australian Climbing Association (Victoria)). It works like the ACA Q (Australian climbing Association (Queensland)). Both are fully independent associations, formed in each state, run by state climbers for all climbers, fighting access issues in their state. Apparently, the meeting at which the ACAV was launched last night, in Natimuk, was an outstanding success.
If you don’t have an association in Tasmania dealing with access issues, now is a great time to start. If you want some assistance in how to get started, contact the ACAQ president (Dave Reeve) or ACAV president (Mike Tomkins). Here is the ACAQ website http://www.qldclimb.org.au/. (I think ACAV website is nearly ready to go live)
A lot of the essential work for a website, online membership, databases, and a Facebook page, has already been done by both these state associations. And I hear discussions have started in New South Wales for the same thing (Although I’m not sure where that’s up to.)
You can more easily find the “Australian Climbing Association Qld” and “Australian Climbing Association Victoria” Facebook pages than I can post links to those pages (sorry, I did try)
SHORT SUMMARY OF WHAT IT’S ABOUT: each state Association studies the state legislation, policies and government processes that directly affect where we can and can’t climb in national parks and other public lands. This includes cultural heritage law, National Parks law, law governing how bureaucrats manage parks, civil liability legislation, and whatever else pops up on the radar. When necessary, submissions are made to state government to change laws (e.g. the ACAQ was successful in getting the Nature Conservation Act 1991 changed for climbers), and discussions are had with land managers (for example, the ACAQ successfully reasoned with a plantation licensee to keep bouldering access open in Passchendaele State Forest)...and there’s a heap more big access issues that are either resolved or being worked on right now, including working with traditional owners regarding cultural heritage issues.
Think about joining the fight if you don’t already have an incorporated access association for Tassie. Talk to the presidents of the ACAQ and ACAV - they are unpaid volunteers whom I believe are only too willing to help. The more states on board, each with their own association, the bigger the presence.
Hi All. Left my favourite locking carabiner at top of new bolted 18 on Main Wall. Irreplacable nowadays. I'll buy you a nice beer! Nick Hancock 0438 368657