Found a dippers chalkbag at Whitewater boulders a couple of days ago.
Belong to anyone?
I couldn't find the new routes 2020 page so I thought I'd create one.
New route at Thylacine Buttress, Dog Leg Bend, North West Bay River.
*Barking Mad 24 20m 9 Bolts
Start 4m Left of Wile E. Coyote. Chin up on the jug to clip the first bolt or stick clip. Funky moves lead to easy ground. Power up the sustained headwall and exit to the right. DBB.
FA: Tom Fulton, Pat Eberhard. May 2020
Barking Mad line is depicted in red here Screen Shot 2020-05-30 at 8.55.13 pm.png
I haven't written up some choss in a long time, but this one is an almost-good-enough cliff that's obvious on a map, that will no doubt get visited again, but probably just a bit too much effort to get to.
I went for a walk on the Glen Dhu Trail on sunday, which goes around the flanks of Collins Cap. It's quite close to the Yellow Cliffs - subject of a previous episode: The Choss Files - Glen Dhu Rd
The cliff itself is quite obvious on a satellite or lidar map see Google map - and was pointed out to me by Dave Thomas.
I parked at the cattle yards where there is a gate across the road on Nicholls Rd and walked from there. The first part of the trail is across private land until you get into the Wellington Park, but the people in the house seemed fine with people walking it.
Its a nice flat walk for half an hour past various bits of small choss, until the track starts zig zagging up the hill in some switch backs. When I could first see the cliff I started contouring across the hillside to it - this was probably a mistake as the hillside is steep AF. On the way back I walked from the top of the cliff, which is flatter, but still not easy walking through regrowth. Would need a track for sure.
The cliff has some ok looking sandstone, some of which would be over 30m high. Its at about 700m elevation, so probably part of the same layer of sandstone as Neika/Springs/Sphinx. It's NNW facing, so had some nice afternoon sun, and a beautiful view over the valley towards Mt Dromedary.
There would be at least a dozen routes there I would have thought. But, its probably just a bit too much effort to get to, at 45/50+ minutes walk, with a steep uphill pinch and not easy walking at the end to gain the cliff. So probably destined to remain a curiosity, but maybe others will disagree.
Other choss files:
I'm relatively new to Hobart. Looking for a really good physio. Can anyone recommend anyone?
Dear climbers. I'm tired of the `Star Wars' and I would appreciate some feedback please. I am working on a third edition to Climb Tasmania, a selected best climbs guide... totally revamped with fresh topos, some new crags, action shots..it's going to be a kick-ass guide for visitors and locals alike. How would people react to a `starless' guide? I'm a bit weary of the endless debate about stars and the totally subjective nature of assessing the quality of routes. Having put up a few new routes, its hard not to be biased and to inflate stars on my own routes because new routers invest so much time and effort. But people are also attracted to certain styles of route and diss routes that don't suit them. Some routes may be a bit dirty or have certain imperfections, or hard to access, but still have some great climbing. One problem with stars is that people gravitate to the 3 star routes and perfectly good climbs get neglected. I would like to foster an old skill that many climbers from the past used to have, that is to walk under a cliff and say..that looks like a great route..let's try that... with no indication in the guide of its quality, but just enough information to decide FOR YOURSELF if its safe and worthwhile doing...restoring a bit of self reliance and a climbers ability to judge and assess risk and decide whether to climb a route or not, based on their assessment, and not being hand-held by a guidebook all the way up a route. After all, a bit of mystery and adventure is partly why we all like climbing. If it is a selected best climbs guide, then it should be assumed that most of the routes in there are worth doing..and I will recruit the opinions of seasoned and respected locals to make the route selection. What do people think of a starless guidebook..or is this a silly idea from a long-lost galaxy far far away...
Anyone need any climbing wall nuts ? climbing wall nuts.jpeg
If you can fix a few plywood sheets somewhere for your next NW Garage Arete, Attic Overhang, or Kitchen Direct, I have a bunch of extra climbing wall nuts if anyone needs a couple dozen or three. Free to locals of course. Hobart area.
Stu Scott just got a text from Justin, the owner of the farm at Sand River. He was pretty concerned that people were still climbing at Sand River this weekend, and he asked that 1. No one to climb or be on his land (which is the Panopticon South as well as his farm), and 2. no one to come near his house eg in the case of emergency, which has happened before.
I think from that anyone thinking of climbing out there should think again, at the risk of damaging long term relationships with the locals.
Forestry land is closed as of 30/3. This includes Sand River.
In the interest of public safety, Sustainable Timber Tasmania will close all recreational areas including picnic and camping grounds from 5pm AEST Friday 27 March 2020 until further notice.
In addition, gates on Permanent Timber Production Zone land accessing these areas will be closed from Monday 30 March 2020.
Sustainable Timber Tasmania will notify the public when these closures will be lifted.
- As of May 11 you can exercise in parks and reserves within 30km of your residence (see the rules below)
- Same applies to Wellington Park, but Pinnacle Rd is still closed
- Same applies to Forestry land, including Sand River, but the 30km rule also applies. "As of Monday 11 May, Permanent Timber Production Zone land managed by Sustainable Timber Tasmania can be used for exercise activities by Tasmanian residents. Residents should only use public production forest within 30 kilometres of their place of residence."
- Social distancing rules apply everywhere
In March, a tough decision was made to close all PWS national parks and reserves across Tasmania to limit non-essential travel during the COVID-19 pandemic. We understand this has been difficult for our nature-loving community who enjoy a wide variety of recreational uses, including bushwalking, running and swimming in the natural spaces around us.
With strict physical distancing and group gathering restrictions now embedded in our daily lives, limited access to Tasmania’s national parks and reserves will be permitted from Monday 11 May, for the purpose of local exercise only.
So, what does this all mean?
• You may exercise at your local national park or reserve. You can either walk, cycle or run to your nearest park or reserve, and if this is not possible, drive to one within 30 kilometres of your place of residence
• You must return home after you have completed your exercise and only day use is permitted.
• Gathering for picnics or other recreational activities remains prohibited.
• If carparks are full, please move on and return at another time.
• Surfing and swimming are allowed.
• Physical distancing of at least 1.5 metres between each other must be adhered to and groups are limited to two people, except for household members. Visitor centres and campgrounds remain closed until further notice.
For more information visit our website at www.parks.tas.gov.au
Please note that Wellington Park will re-open but the Pinnacle Road will remain closed to vehicle traffic.
Set of keys picked up at SR yesterday(Sunday 8th March). Key (Mitsubishi) tag labeled "Vegas". Have left them at Rockit, ask at the front desk for them.
Looking for a climbing partner for the grade 12, 430m rysavy ridge climb at Mt Rowland,
Sometime over the next 5 days while the weather is fine
Let me know, I have all the gear, just need a partner
Hey, made a small blood sacrifice to the gods of trad today and ended up leaving a 0.4 friend on moonraker to go get some stitches. If someone pulled it and feels generous about returning it then I can offer some beers in return!
Cheers in advance,
Ash 0 423 535 547
Hi every one
I have lost my well loved clip stick. Green beta one. Has Prussic cord on the base of it.
Some where above Paradiso or even the car park.
**The gravel is in its most fragile state currently please take care of the track as it beds down. No spinning wheels, consistent steady speed will help you get up. if you loose traction roll back down and try again.**
as the rain falls it will help compact the gravel and bed it down better, it is a very steep section. thanks
Now the less important part that most wont read, the track works are basically completed. some containment edges to stop the track from growing outward could be continued, we have done some already, and also some erosion barriers to stop the soft sand washing down could also be created to help maintain it. i will attempt to take a ute load of FCR with me for the next few climbing trips out there to top up the lower section and pot hole, ( one truckload could only stretch so far) if you also have a Ute and would like to partake in this feel free to contact me if you needed some advice,
Lastly Huge thanks to everyone that made this happen, i wont publicly name everyone that helped out either on the day or logistically at risk of missing someone off, but thanks heaps,
Many have probably noticed the vehicle access track to the main parking area has become trashed, and post the most recent lot of rain all the low clearance 2wd vehicles that have clearly forgotten their limitations have all but destroyed the steep section, the low vehicle parking area by the road has also become almost unusable due to potholes and erosion, vehicles have begun parking on the opposite side of the road.
were very fortunate to have such a good parking area at such a popular crag, but no one will be coming to maintain the track for us. if anyone is interested in helping or maybe someone from the CCT could help facilitate some potholing or track repair lets be pro-active rather than reactive, happy to offer my time to help but cant do it alone.
In the short term if you have low clearance try to refrain from getting stuck on the hill and spinning wheels, and park closer to the road while we sort this out.