WARNING

A recent severe wind related weather event has resulted in multiple trees falling across the track which accesses Mt Roland cliffs.  Of concern, is that there are many "widow maker" branches hanging, waiting for an unsuspecting person to walk underneath.  There is a very high risk of one of these branches falling without notice.  It is recommended to avoid the area for a couple of months to allow the forces of gravity and changing winds to do their work in bringing some of these branches down to earth.  Some track clearing with a chainsaw has commenced - more will be done when time permits.

See the source image

I've not been to the Knuckle before, so anyone with some experience there would be greatly appreciated. I am wondering if it might be in condition by Monday 13th. 

 

I've been looking at the Stacks Bluff forecast; not sure if there is a more suitable one. Looks like all the precipitation leading up to Monday is probably snow, rather than rain, which on a South facing slope that is mostly water ice, I wonder if this will not work well. There are strong southerly winds all week, however they seem to improve somewhat by Monday. 

 

https://www.yr.no/en/forecast/daily-table/2-2207886/Australia/Tasmania/Northern%20Midlands/Stacks%20Bluff 

https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Stacks-Bluff/forecasts/1527 

https://www.willyweather.com.au/tas/northern/stacks-bluff.html (Willy weather less optimistic about how cold it is going to be)

 

Forgot my shoes at Blackwood Rocks last Saturday 19 March at Blackwood Rocks at McGifford's Edge (right under Aperitif) if anyone has found them please please let me know. 

Shoes found!

Hi all

I found a watch at lassies wall on Sunday. If it is yours let us know and 

I can post it to you or I can drop it off at the gym.

thanks Garry

TheSarvo appears to be lacking in a guide for (Northern) Badgers beyond a mere mention in Other Northern Crags. TheCrag has a list of climbs in the area but a bit short on detailed beta for which crag is which.

I don't have access to my copy of Climb Northern Tas so I don't know what's in there or how up-to-date that is.

 

Anyone on here with the goss for the area and happy for me to pick their brains?? GPS coords of which wall is where from TheCrag.com mostly.

 

Cheers

Dave

Hi all, it's with great sadness that I have to say I seem to have lost a rope on the pipes. Annoyingly it's hard for me to pin down where and when. Likely in the last 3 weeks and around heat is most likely or perhaps the pinnacle Road car park.

Keen to know if one has been found. Black singing rock rope bag - simple back pack style and a 60m bicolour TC pro rope, green.

Hopefully a resolution to the mystery is to be found.

Safe climbing!

 

Crag Care is running an erosion control working bee at Flange Buttress on the Organ Pipes this Sunday 20th of Feb. As a result, Hobart City Council (who are supervising the working bee) has requested that Flange Buttress, from Fiddlesticks to The Tower of Power (including Neon God, After Midnight and Pleasant Screams and all the climbs between) be closed to climbing from 10am-3pm. This will keep climbers and ropes out of the worksite.
Sorry for any inconvenience caused, the works will help manage erosion cause by ropes and foot traffic at the site, so benefiting the universe in the long term.
Have fun out there!

The sign re- Peregrine falcons at  the left hand end of the Panopticon has been taken down and is stored under Bentham Wall, ready for next year.

BTW, last two weekends at the Panopticon we have had big brown ticks on us, maybe due to the wetter than average spring/summer rains - worth checking after a session up there.

Hi Everyone

Just letting people know that there is a birds nest 1m right of the climb Princess.

The nest is at the 2nd bolt.  I think it would be good to have a climbing ban on this route and Nefarious until they have gone away.

If some one wants to post this on the crag as well as Facebook that would be great.  

We should probably also put a tag on the 1st bolt as well.

 

 

CLIMB TASMANIA GUIDEBOOK REVIEW by Simon Mentz.
Here is what one of the authors of the Mt Arapiles guidebook, Simon Mentz, thinks of the new Tassie guidebook. Please share this to as many of your friends as you can. Thankyou
CLIMB TASMANIA (3rd Edition) by Gerry Narkowicz
Review by Simon Mentz
For an old jaded climber like me, seeing the latest edition of Climb Tasmania was the shot in the arm that I needed. This isn't just a reprint of the former excellent guide with a few extra titbits thrown in, but a complete re-working of the book... new layout, new topos, new maps, new photos, new crags.
Unfortunately, Hillwood has gone due to access problems, but at least low to mid-end climbers can enjoy the inclusion of Sand River, a friendly sport climbing area not too far from Hobart. Among the other more significant areas to debut in this edition is Cloudy Bay down on Bruny Island which hosts a bunch of moderate sport routes in a seaside setting. I was glad to see the inclusion of Fruehauf, which despite being a chipped quarry is still a worthwhile place to spend a few hours when the weather is crap on 'the Pipes' above Hobart. Boulderers haven't been forgotten either with 14 pages dedicated to various pockets of bouldering scattered around the state (but you will need to do a bit more research if bouldering is all that you do).
The new layout and graphics are pleasing to the eye and also make this guide both user-friendly and appealing to read. And there is plenty to read! Gerry's love of the history of Tassie climbing shines through with not only a History Timeline at the start of the book, but a history chapter for each area and finally 'Star Wars'... a piss-take of the characters, the development, the ethics and the fueds that have dominated the Tassie climbing scene over the last few decades.
Visually the guide is well served by a variety of photographers, but in particular the work of Simon Bischoff lifts the book to world-class level with his cliff photos and action shots. The designer Boris Petrack has matched the cliff photos with topo graphics to convey all the necessary information in a clean and attractive way. Print quality is superb and many enjoyable hours can be spent pouring over the cliff photos and excellent maps to familiarise yourself with each area.
There is an abundance of updated and re-worked information in this book, much of which is far more detailed than what appeared in earlier editions. Gerry has called on a host of people to write and update different regions and this will be particularly appreciated by climbers launching onto those cliffs where route descriptions and topos were seriously lacking. Climbs such as the Candlestick and the Geryon Traverse now have far more detail for those wishing to tackle them. These climbs however remain very serious adventures (despite their relatively low grades) and shouldn't be underestimated.
I suspect there are a bunch of other more-subtle elements to this book which I have failed to mention, but which I will come to appreciate over time. One element that did jump out was the inclusion of yellow boxes which tell a bit more story behind iconic Tasmanian climbs, which was a nice way of injecting a bit of character into those pages dominated by dry route descriptions.
While I might question the allocation of stars occasionally, particularly by a handful of first ascentionists getting carried away with their latest creations, such gripes are not really worth mentioning in a book of this magnitude. There is little doubt that Gerry has done Tassie climbing proud, along with everyone else who has contributed to it.
Fortunately, the book is out just in time for the upcoming Tassie climbing season, so treat yourself and/or a friend by buying a copy and start planning your next climbing holiday to the magic island state.
You can order Climb Tasmania online from climbtasmania.com.au $64.95 plus $10 postage.

Hi all! Hobart City Council Bushcare and Crag Care are running a Freuhauf working bee this Sunday (28th) from 9.30am to 12 noon! There's still spots so come along! We'll be weeding and looking afer reveg. Register here: https://wildcaretas.org.au/event/1000001893/

Please note Freuy will be closed during the working bee!

Drainage above Fruehauf

Since the houses have been built on top of Fruehy it doesn't stop seeping. Even after small rains it takes forever to dry. The reason is that the water drainage from the roads and houses directs all the water on top of the cliff. So instead of the grassy area that used to soak up all the water we now have a rivulet draining onto the climbs. Half of the cliff has been unclimbable most of days in the last weeks (and not just because of the rainy days). Is there anyone with a good connection to the council to achieve that the drainage gets redirected a bit further away from the climbs? Or do we have to dig a trench ourselves? Our afterwork cliff has been pretty busy lately but there were only about 3.5 climbable routes. 

Hi team, would anyone have objections to me replacing the tat at the top of third bird with rap anchors? Someone may have already done it, thought I'd put it on my to do list this season 

Our first Crag Care Organ Pipes working bee!
We need volunteers to help carry out track work to manage erosion around Flange and Northern Buttress on Sunday 14 November. The Hobart City Council Bushcare program will provide the training and tools, you bring the psyche (and also drinking water, covered shoes, snacks/lunch etc.)!
Registrations will be essential for this one. 
  1. You'll also need to sign up to be a Wildcare member, if you haven't already, so that you're covered for insurance purposes: https://wildcaretas.org.au/join/
       2. Click 'Join this branch' on our Crag Care Tasmania branch page after you join.
       3. Register for the even on our branch page via this link: https://wildcaretas.org.au/event/1000001884/
See you there!
Lost Gear

Trad rack and other gear lost, probably on South Bruny, by two impoverished student in the last couple of weeks . Reward to finders of course -  any info would also be welcome. Post a contact here if you can help.

Thanks