Hi! I`m in Devonport since this week i`m from Chile and am traveling in tassie! I could only bring my climbing shoes my harness and my helmet but i have a lot o motivation to knew crags spots and to climb! my wpp number is +569 965 30 597,  you could msg me if you're looking for a partner or know anyone who does! would be great 

BYE!! Paula

Hello everyone !

 

I recently arrived in Tasmania as part of my cycling journey around Australia. Just spent 2 days in Hillwood and really enjoyed it, specially the quirky Far Side. Im planning to be around Lauceston for a while and then head elsewhere in the island. 

 

Got some sport climbing gear including a rope but I'm very keen on finally starting trad. Did a trad course in NZ but never got to practice. Can climb 17s, maybe 18s once I warm up well :) Msg me if you're looking for a partner or know anyone who does ! My phone number is 0474 165 233 !

 

Cheers

Herve

 

 

partner for Alix

An aquaintance is coming to Tassie, and looking for a partner for some cool Tassie stuff.

She's a valley local, I believe, saw her there last Fall.

I think she climbs pretty hard.

Contact Alix Morris on Facebook, or post here and I will point her here.

 

Cheers

Found a bunch of draws under The Blind leading the crippled at Waterworks this morning (29/11/2017).

If you know the owner, drop a message here and I'll get them back to you.

cheers

Cam

Petzl bouldering mat for sale $200

Phone Toby on 0437940585 (do not reply here)

Books for sale

Climb Tasmania $20 other books $10 each

Phone Toby on 0437940585 (do not reply here)

Hey climbers,

I'm searchig for climbing partners to climb outdoors. About me:My name is Tristan, I'm from Germany and came to Australia to climb as much as possible, i onsight about 22.(same as my age) I'm in Hobart for now. I'd love it if some local climbers coud show me around. Sadly i can't offer more than my company and a small sport rack.

If you feel like playing guide give me a ring or message (0439811216).

 

Cheers

Hi All, 

just letting you know that a guide to Hidden Zawn, a cliff developed since mid-2017, is now available and incorporated in the Cloudy Bay guide.  There are many more routes to be done, so please  update this guide accordingly! 

Enjoy!

cheers, 

Ben

Used Climbing Gear for Sale

More price drops! See individual items for details

As a preamble, the gear that I am selling is all in good condition. Some of it is has been around for a while - quite a while in some instances - but it has all been looked after well. None of the cams or wires have frayed bits. Slung nuts have had their slings replaced periodically as needed. Quickdraw dogbones are all in good condition as are any slings that are listed. People who know me will attest that I look after my gear well and dispose of anything that is dodgy. I've tried to price everything reasonably in the hope that I won't have to field endless offers.  However, if you have any general questions or think I'm wildly optimistic about the worth of any items please contact me on douglascharlesbruceatgmaildotcom. If you're genuinely interested in a particular item and want a closer look I can send more detailed pictures if you don't live locally. Just send me your email address.

Any gear that is not sold locally will be subject to postage to be paid by the purchaser.

There's still a lot of good stuff here, go on ... you can always use another cam ...

Photos attached 

Camming Devices

all with dedicated biners, mostly colour-coded. See photo below. 

BD Camelots. All of the cable-stemmed cams are gone except for the 0.3. Price drop on all of the SS-stemmed cams from $55 to $50 - or make it $45 each without a biner -

    • 0.30   x : 1 $60 SOLD
    • 0.40    x 2: $50 
    • 0.50    x 1: $50
    • 0.75    x 1: $50
    • Size 1 x 1: $50
    • Size 2 x 1: $50 SOLD


 

Wild Country Flexible Friends: 

These babies aren't so fashionable in Downunderland nowadays, but are in excellent condition and slide in beautifully.

1.5 x 2: $55 each  Price drop: $50 each or both for $90    or make it $40 for each without the biners - or $75 for the pair without the biners -


Aliens: 

Only the Green left: take it away for $50 - or make it $40 without the biner

This is an original Alien, made in the USofA and regarded as better made than the newer Fixe "Aliens". As Alex said when he walked away with the other two, "You just can't get these anywhere."


 

Wires

DMM Wallnuts: ALL SOLD

Metolius Curved Nuts SOLD


20 Miscellaneous Wires (mostly Wild Country Rocks)

  • $5 each (except for the big HB nut - that's $7) or $90 for the lot

 

Nuts on Cord ALL SOLD

Miscellaneous biners

There are 36 of these. Everything from a couple of beautiful, weightless Climbing Technology biners to BD Livewire biners to hoary old Bonatti Kong biners and plenty in between. If you know you're climbing gear you'll know what you're looking at. Prices range from $5 to $10. Open to offers on bunches. Make  bid and I'll make a call, I just can't be bothered working out package pricing for this mixed bag. 

NB: all the older $5 biners are gone. There are now 26 biners left. Prices from $7 for the likes of standard BD straight gate or wire gate biners to $9 for super lightweight Climbing Technologies or super bombproof BD Hotwire biners.


Screw gate BINERS: ALL SOLD


BD Hollowpoint Pack

20 litre capacity. Tough. You can haul this sucker and it won't rip apart.

$35

   

 

... and that's all. For the moment.

Length of U-bolts

 I recently got asked a question about shortening the length of U-bolts when used in really hard rock like dolerite. This is based on the reply:

 

I'm REALLY glad you asked that question ... because I don't want to be clipping short U's!! ;) 

So, the short answer is no; don't make them shorter. What follows is a longer answer to explain my thinking. It's bound to say lots of stuff you know already so apologies for that. 

Firstly, reliability is a more important issue for glue-in anchors than average (or "expected") strength. So, controlling the rogue factors with adhesion are critical: the right glue; good mixing; good hole cleaning, enough notching, good cleaning (de-greasing) of the steel surfaces; reduction of air-pockets in the glue. That's why I've become something of a preacher on those issues!! 

Reliability comes into the length question because length mitigates most of those issues (even if it doesn't eliminate them). So, you may be able to get enough strength in dolerite with 20 mm embedment but you've left no margin for things not being perfect - an air-pocket, or uncleaned dust, might tip it into the too-weak-to-work zone. Length also helps with imperfect rock (and lots of dolerite isn't perfect). 

Moving on to some specifics about dimensions. The figure below illustrates the kind of U's I have made and which, I think, represents the dimensions of most U's in Tas (esp on dolerite and granite). I'm not sure, but I think these broad dimensions have also been used for Sand River? [I know OG and BM have; and I also hear the Stuart Scott et al have made them slightly longer, out of 215 mm rods].

Above: U made from 200 mm length of 316 stainless. Wood background shows embedment into the rock (50-60 mm*). Notches are ground into the last 45 mm of each leg. This provides at least 10 mm* of notch-free rod near the surface of the rock (to reduce risk of SSC corrosion). 
* These dimensions vary due to irregularities when bending but the above spec guarantees at least 10 mm notch-free embedment and 50 mm total embedment. 

Let's consider making it 10 mm "shorter". We would reduce both legs by 10 mm so we would make it out of 180 mm of rod (10% saving) and the holes have gone from 70 mm to 60 mm (14% saving). To preserve the 10 mm notch-free zone we would need to shorten the notched zone form 45 mm to 35 mm (22% shorter!!) which is starting to "feel" dodgy. Going to 20 mm shorter legs and we have a 20% steel saving but have lost nearly half our notched length! With modern drills it is easy enough to do the drilling, and the saved steel isn't worth much, so my view is that the economies aren't there. 

The above begs the alternative question of whether Sand River U's should be LONGER? I have only done one route there but was surprised at how easy it was to drill the hole and how hard is was to clean it. My "feel" is that, so long as the holes are cleaned really well, that the "standard" U dimensions above are still OK. This is because it "feels" hard to conceive of a failure mode that doesn't take more than 7 kN to achieve (there is still a lot of either rock or glue that needs to fail). It would be nice to have that guess tested though. Nothing beats empiricism! 

 

 

 

 

Found at Sand River

Found a pair of rock boots (new) out at Foucault Buttress on the Panopticon, Sand River, last Friday, 17 Nov. Contact me through Thesarvo for return.

Cheers

Tony

The 50 year old classics

On a whim, I did a search for all the starred routes that were done in 1967 and 1968, and are having the 50 year aniversary of their FA.

Here they are, collect them all!

First Ascent in 1967:

 

Stars

Name

Length

Grade

Area

*

Scimitar Spur

500m

12

Frenchmans Cap

***

Fiddlesticks

55m

14

Flange Buttress

*

Andromeda

26m

14

Northern Buttress

*

Claret Corner

109m

15

The Columns

**

Faust

85m

16

Central Buttress

**

Skyline Major

90m

16

Northern Buttress

*

Breaker Spur

82m

16

Bulging Buttress

*

Chancellor

55m

16

University Buttress

*

The Plenipotentiary

155m

16

Cradle Mountain - Lake St Clair

**

Excalibur Direct (ED)

8m

17

Rocky Tom

*

Double Column Central

77m

17

The Columns

*

The Cordoban

93m

17

The Columns

**

Ophthalmia

81m

18

Step Tier

*

Firebrand

80m

20

The Columns

First Ascent in 1968:

 

Stars

Name

Length

Grade

Area

*

Twisted Towers and South-East Summit

 

13

Frenchmans Cap

*

Fleur-de-lis

210m

14

Frenchmans Cap

**

Bismark

25m

15

Lowdina

**

Nefertiti

60m

15

Great Tier

*

Passiona

50m

15

Great Tier

***

Hood

30m

16

Lowdina

***

Tierry le Fronde

150m

16

Frenchmans Cap

*

The Melbourne Variant

370m

16

Frenchmans Cap

*

Waterloo Road

310m

16

Frenchmans Cap

***

Centaur

48m

17

Northern Buttress

***

The Chimes of Freedom

250m

17

Frenchmans Cap

*

Pooh Corner

72m

17

The Columns

***

Icarus

78m

20

The Columns

**

The Shield

55m

20

The Columns

*

Firebrand

80m

20

The Columns

**

Bismark

100m

24

The Columns

Check it out at: North Sister. Thanks to Gerry for putting it up.

Heyo!

I’ll be in Hobart Nov 18-20 with a rack, a rope and lots of climbing psych! No car at the moment but I would be willing to get a rental. Anybody willing to show a visitor some local rock (cape Raoul looks awesome!)? I’m 28, have been climbing for about 10 years and lead up to about 25 on gear. Happy to climb easier or belay/second harder.

 

Cheers!

 

Jon

Hi there

I've been told that someone was bolting the upper wall right of Ophthalmia and left of Peacepipe the other day. I climbed a route up there a few years ago but it seems to have missed making the guide... I found the original write up here though: http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/2013/01/07/New+Routes+and+News+2013?focusedCommentId=294715394#comment-294715394

Perhaps what we climbed a few years ago didn't get put into the guide because of the note I made about the direct start (which has since been cleaned and top-roped - just waiting to be climbed, possibly with a few bolts of its own... still undecided on that one). Considering it is missing from the guide, I just thought I'd make sure that the existing trad route isn't in the same place as this new bolted/mixed route.

If anyone wants to talk to me about this directly without posting here, send me an email. I've added my email address to the About Me section of my profile on thesarvo for now (note: I'll be out of contact for up to a week from now though)

Cheers