Mt Anne
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Introduction | Mt Anne is a large pyramid shaped mountain in South West Tasmania, near the shores of Lake Peddar. Not much climbing has been done here compared to the large amount of rock on offer. New routes await for those willing to hump packs up the character building track up Mt Eliza and on to the plateau. |
These routes are on the south west side of Mt Anne. Even though exposed to the weather, this is an obvious starting point because the cliffs are relatively low, (35m). On the 1:25000 map from GR 528450, walk east along the cliffs for about 250m until a light orange wall is reached At the far R end, there is a L facing corner, the start of Cosmic Orange.
Cosmic Orange 35m 18 Start in the L facing corner. Climb the twin cracks to a little roof and finish up an offwidth and squeeze chimney. Then the easiest line to the top. G. Phillips and J. Morgan, Dec. 1994.
Walk a further 50m along the base of the cliff, passing lots of little roofs until you reach the stepped wall of Reptile. Choc Coated starts two thirds of the way up the cliff and is best appraoched by climbing Reptile first.
Reptile 30m 18M0 Climb and layback until a small roof is reached. Turn this on the L and continue up the steep crack to top (one point of aid used before the large belay ledge was reached). G. Phillips and J. Morgan, Dec. 1994.
Choc Coated 15m 18 Stars 5m R of Reptile, in a corner with two cracks. Climb the cleaner LH one, which gets progressively harder towards the top. G. Phillips and J. Morgan, Dec. 1994.
This info is from the TUCC newsletter no 9. These routes are at Shlef Camp, on the Eliza Plateau. In general the rock, which is dolerite, is similar to the Pipes except surprisingly more solid and steeper. Its a great place to go and do some wilderness climbing if you're keen; and you've go the sight of the East Face across the valley to scare you senseless.
Large flat rocks provide good campsites and a reasonable view of the crags. Directly above these campsites is a broken 150m high cliff comprising of many 20m walls separated by scrubby terraces. Any long climb here would be discontinuous. Further left (south) are some more compact crags of 40-80m in height offering excellent rock. The major buttress immediately right of the Notch, a steep orange wall, is split by some very impressive crack lines. On in particular looks like an excellent 60m climb in the 20s.
Large flat rocks provide good campsites and a reasonable view of the crags. Directly above these campsites is a broken 150m high cliff comprising of many 20m walls separated by scrubby terraces. Any long climb here would be discontinuous. Further left (south) are some more compact crags of 40-80m in height offering excellent rock. The major buttress immediately right of the Notch, a steep orange wall, is split by some very impressive crack lines. On in particular looks like an excellent 60m climb in the 20s.
Dismal Failure 80m 20 On the buttress left (south) of the notch and around the corner is a slight amphitheatre with broken walls and ledges on the lower half. Our line was based on the prominent 30m hand crack splitting a column at the top of the cliff.
1. 50m Climb the short walls (harder than it looks) to a ledge below the hand crack.
2. Fail to lead the lichenous hand crack. (toproped at about 20/21). T.Chappell , B. Kumpulainen 1996.
1. 50m Climb the short walls (harder than it looks) to a ledge below the hand crack.
2. Fail to lead the lichenous hand crack. (toproped at about 20/21). T.Chappell , B. Kumpulainen 1996.
Dyslexic Lizard 20m 18 The juggy arete 20m uphill of the Shameless Dwarf Catcher. Climb up on jugs, then a crack to an obvious block at 10m. Ignore the crack above and the crack left of this and keep traversing to an easy looking corder that isn't. T.Chappell , B. Kumpulainen 1996.
Shameless Dwarf Catcher 20m 17 Start on the south facing wall that you walk underneath when ascending to the notch. This climb and DL both finish on the large terrace, and it is possible to walk off. Find an obvious 10m hand crack that starts at ground level, ignore it (even though it looks excellent) and climb the crack immediately left if it to a ledge, then up a steep pillar to a corner. T.Chappell , B. Kumpulainen 1996.
South East Ridge 300m 15 This route description is rewritten from an old CCT circular. Could do with a check and an update.
From shelf camp traverse round on shelves crossing several steep gullies to the foot of the impressive East Face. Keep going to the SE Ridge, directly to one side of the face. This is scrubby lower down but by keeping to the skyline quite an interesting exposed scramble. Higher up a small band of cliffs bar the way, the easiest line being grade 15 for 20m. A further scramble takes you to a prow where there are several alternatives. The route taken (50m grade 13) involved a couple of short walls and a series of smooth chimneys, which brings you to the the wide shelf below the summit. Phil Robinson, Basil Rathbone, Mar 1977.
From shelf camp traverse round on shelves crossing several steep gullies to the foot of the impressive East Face. Keep going to the SE Ridge, directly to one side of the face. This is scrubby lower down but by keeping to the skyline quite an interesting exposed scramble. Higher up a small band of cliffs bar the way, the easiest line being grade 15 for 20m. A further scramble takes you to a prow where there are several alternatives. The route taken (50m grade 13) involved a couple of short walls and a series of smooth chimneys, which brings you to the the wide shelf below the summit. Phil Robinson, Basil Rathbone, Mar 1977.
Gallery
See Mt Anne Gallery for some bushwalking shots
