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Blog from December, 2016
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Hi all,
Unfamiliar with his things work on this site, so if this post is in the wrong place I apologise and I'm happy to be corrected.
I'm heading to do The Moai tomorrow and was wondering if anybody could tell me whether there is a reliable source of fresh water near the Bivouac Bay camp. I'm trying to decide whether I can just take my filter or I need to pack in my supply.
Thanks in advance and happy holidays.
The good news - Parks have re-surfaced the road into WWW, done a great job but... the bad news is that they have constructed seriously deep/high drainage channels across the road in many places, so big that even 4 wheel drives with high clearance are bottoming out. They will, I guess, become smaller with time as vehicles compact the gravel, erosion reduces height etc but at the moment, access by cars, vans etc is REALLY difficult if not impossible. The CCT and I think TCIA will take it up with Parks - would have been good to have been at least consulted or warned so we could spread the word!
If you are ever climbing somewhere and there isn't a topo of the area please take a photo (iPhone camera is good enough) and upload it here and i'll add it the the guide book.
Added a topo for Island Zawn today, if you haven't done Boris (a 1 star 18) it's worth the effort to go and do check out the topo here White Stack Area
If you are interested here is some dideo of a helicopter rescue on Cape Raoul
Only view-able until 28th Dec
https://au.tv.yahoo.com/plus7/air-rescue/-/watch/33365055/air-rescue-wed-30-nov-season-4-episode-1/
The final version of the 2016 TWWHA management plan came out today:
The climbing section is on page 143.
The CCT was consulted on the drafting of this section, and we managed to negotiate some changes to the original text, in particular recognising the existing use of anchors at the major areas ("the occasional limited installation (or replacement) of permanent anchors at Mt Geryon, The Acropolis, Frenchmans Cap and Mt Anne is permitted.") and allowing their use in the post 2013 extensions (most notably Blackwood Summit). In the original draft there was a full proscription on power drills, in the final version they are allowed with written permission. These terms are probably more permissive than the 1999 management plan, which aimed to "Generally discourage the use of bolts and other fixtures that permanently damage rock faces."
So there was a lot of talk about fixed anchors in this process, but it's easy to lose sight of that 99% of climbs in the WHA are trad, and the management plan recognises climbing as a fully valid activity in the WHA - which is not necessarily a given.
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Section 6.4.6
6 .4 .6
Climbing and Canyoning Some of the TWWHA’s many cliff and rock faces are established venues for rock climbing. They include Frenchmans Cap, which is the most popular destination, the Acropolis, Mt Geryon, Federation Peak and Mt Anne. Climbers also conduct occasional trips to more remote mountains. The sport is generally compatible with the area’s natural values when climbers minimise the use of fixed anchors, such as bolts, and practise minimal impact bushwalking and climbing techniques. In this regard, the climbing community has a history of self-regulation. For example, the Climbers Club of Tasmania recently developed a Code of Conduct. Traditional free climbing, with little or no use of permanent anchors, has been the predominant form of rock climbing in the TWWHA for five decades. Heavily bolted ‘sport’ routes – an increasingly popular style that relies on the placement of protection before a climb is attempted – have recently appeared in some remote parts of the TWWHA. They damage affected rock faces and are generally considered to have reduced aesthetic qualities. Maintaining permanent anchors at remote locations is not practical. Other potential management problems include damage to vegetation, and erosion of rock faces and access routes. In particular, there are concerns that access routes to crags may develop all of the problems that are associated with heavily used bushwalking tracks.
Canyoning, which also uses ropes, is an emerging activity. While its environmental impact is potentially similar to that caused by rock climbing, the current impact of canyoning is minimal because of low usage. Ice climbing is occasionally attempted on higher peaks, such as Mt Geryon and Cradle Mountain, but conditions are rarely suitable. The following prescriptions allow for climbing and other related activities to continue in the TWWHA, except where they cause unacceptable environmental damage or impact on the experience of other users
• The TWWHA will be predominantly maintained as a traditional climbing area.
• The establishment or maintenance of routes that are protected primarily or exclusively using fixed anchors (i.e. ‘sport’ climbs) is generally prohibited.
• Existing routes in the 2013 minor boundary extension that use fixed anchors may be maintained. New routes may be established in existing locations where fixed anchors are utilised subject to approval by PWS.
• Based on historical precedence, the occasional limited installation (or replacement) of permanent anchors at Mt Geryon, The Acropolis, Frenchmans Cap and Mt Anne is permitted.
• Written authority must be obtained from the PWS before using power-driven equipment to install or replace any permanent anchor in the TWWHA.
• Limited use of permanent abseil anchors for canyoning activities may be approved by the PWS, subject to site-specific considerations.
• Access tracks that are used by climbers and canyoners will be managed in a manner consistent with the PWS Track Classification Scheme.
• Development of emergent activities, such as canyoning, and their associated impacts, will be monitored.
at the bottom of chancellor on university buttress. if its yours contact me on 0400 892 012. steve cameron
Here is a link to all the new routes done in Northern Tassie this year at crags such as North Sister, South Sister, Township Creek, Gilligans Creek, and the South Esk river. Of special interest may be the new sport crag at North Sister, which is worthy of a day or two of your attention if you are in the Fingal Valley and want an alternative to the more serious climbing at Bare Rock.
http://climbtasmania.com.au/blogs/news/northern-tassie-new-route-update-excellent-new-sport-crag
Could anyone deliver 4 boxes of guidebooks to Glenn Tempest in Natimuk for me..if yu are going on a trip to Araps soon? cheers
Hi all.
Just a quick note to say that the Falcons have successfully done their thing and the cliff is now open and ready to go.
Please remember to drive carefully on the private road section when approaching.
Hope you all have a great season ahead - stay safe!
Kind regards,
Andrew