The usual access is by abseil (22m). Head out on the promontory between Big Zawn and Island Zawn, on the Island side is a large solid looking tree 10 m down from the crest. Please put a sling and karabiner round the tree, you can recover it when you climb out.
White Stack Area
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Introduction | White Stack is the obvious large outcrop below the clearing 50m past the Lassie's Wall track at the end of the White Water Wall road (although vehicle access is no longer possible). Looking south from White Stack the only decent piece of rock is the Sentry Box, 200m away, and just north of the stack you can see Island Zawn with the detached buttress of the island standing in it.
The White Stack area comprises lower (sea level), middle and upper buttresses, between which is a broad ledge. Mithras finishes on this ledge, and it is possible to scramble to the top from the northern end. Access to the lower cliffs is easiest by abseil from this middle ledge. Island Zawn and Big Zawn are the next two areas north of White Stack, leading to Lassie's Wall. |
Kodak Tart 15m 26 Up hanging arête at top of White Stack. Two bolt runners with 2 and 3 RP between bolts. A desperate, bouldery start past first bolt leads to easier climbing on the arête. The route is possibly better done as 23M1. Dave Jones, Gordon Poultney, Feb 95.
Roaring Forty 10m 16 The companion route to Fishcake and 4m to its right. R.McMahon, N.Smith, J.Richardson, 1981.
Return to Norm-ality 10m 22 This is the arête on the right of the ledge, you would have passed under it when you scrambled around. The route follows the arête and scoopy feature to its left. The gear is not great, but probably OK. Small cams in the horizontal after the first few moves and a wire low and right. The crux is standing into the corner and reaching the ledge. Nick Hancock, Andrew Bissett, Jul 00.
Windjammer 15m 18 The obvious corner crack which finishes on the very top of the stack. Various starts have been done to gain the final corner which is the basis of the climb and about 10m high. Thomas, John Fantini, Ben Maddison, 1980.
These next routes are on the east face. They can be identified by first locating Mithras, a strong roof bound crack lined with bolted routes on either side.
Ocean Cruiser 25m 18 The cracks to the left of the smooth white face which faces east. Climb easily up the wide cracks to gain the chimney. Up this and traverse awkwardly right at its top to finish (there is a variant finish out left by Stephenson and Deka, 1989). K.Bischoff, R.McMahon, 1980.
Lady Chatterley's Liver 30m 17 The leaning offwidth corner immediately to the right of the smooth white face. Ben Maddison, John Fantini, 1980.
Holiday in Bulimia 15m 28 3Þ Up broken seam past 3 bolt runners two lines right of Windjammer. The route can apparently be climbed at grade 25 by using the lefthand arête. Dave Jones, Gordon Poultney, Feb 95.
Of Jellyfish and Men 15m 23 3Þ The face route immediately left of Mithras with 3 bolts, thoughtful and tricky slab face climbing. The route starts in the middle of the sub-buttress then heads right to the first bolt. Bolts are a bit weirdly placed, pre-equipping them is a good idea. E.Peacock, S.Ford, C.Reid, Dec 91.
Mithras 20m 18 The classic corner off the main ledge, pass roof on left. R.McMahon, K.Lockwood, I.Thomas, 1980.
Febrifuge 15m 26 The face right of Mithras. A small camming device protects the bottom moves, followed by 2 bolts then more natural pro. Quite exciting pulling through the roof. E.Peacock, S.Ford, Dec 91.
White Sail 15m 22 The line on the left hand side of the north face, which is around the corner to the right of Febrifuge. Up a very awkward, slightly overhanging thin knucklecrack. Straight up this to easier ground and a classic layback flake. Up to the top of this, step left and up the crack to finish. Simon Parsons, Nick Deka, Phil Bigg, 1981.
Eskimo Sun Park 15m 22 The crack on the right hand side of the face. A handcrack with a small bulge at one third height. Strenuous and flared. Climb straight up the crack. The crux involves a difficult layaway at the bulge. Simon Parsons, Phil Bigg, Doug Fife, 1982.
In League with the Devil 20m 25 Nick had to strike a deal with a daeity to get a belay and second for this climb. From the end of the ledge (a few meters right of Eskimo Sun Park) hand traverse right for a few meters to enter the bottomless crack. Follow this up past an overlap and into a corner beside a roof. After sneaking a rest head out right past the roof and snatch for the jug. Mantle onto the jug, take a few breaths and proceed up the pleasant wall to finish. A fine, strenuous route with excellent protection ( 00-3 friend, no wires needed). Nick Hancock, Andrew Bissett, Jul 00.
Passing Water 20m 20 The crack rising fron the sea, reached by abseiling from the south end of the lower platform (about 10m south of Holiday in Bulimia) to a pedestal in calm conditions. Robert McMahon, John Fisher, Mar 95.
The next three climbs are on a wall starting at sea-level (below a region between 5-15m north of the base of Holiday in Bulimia).
The Path of Righteousness 20m 19 The straight hand-crack starting from a hanging belay at water level. Abseil in. Roger Parkyn, Nick Hancock, Aug 02.
Jesus is My Belay Bunny 20m 22 On the lowest tier directly below Of Jellyfish and Men, climb the crack starting above a sea-washed triangular stance, to a tricky swing left to gain the continuation up The Path of Righteousness. Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Aug 02.
God Ain't Watching 20m 23 The flaring crack a few metres right leads to bold moves (the route was rap inspected and top roped before the first ascent) up left to a big jug and creative protection. Make a balancy step up to gain a flake and an easier finish. Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Aug 02.
Losing Acuity 20m 19 The gritty awkward offwidth corner in the cleft around the corner to the right. Access by abseil. Ben Maddison, John Fantini, 1980.
I'm Stuck and I Can't Get Out 20m 19 Climb the gaping off width on the southern side of Island Zawn. Kim Robinson, John Forcett 1997
Bloody Obvious 15m 18 Climb the clean crack on the left hand side of the east face. Kim Robinson, John Forcett 1997. [Not quite sure where this fits in with the other routes here - Ed]
Ilsa 12m 16 On the south side of the island. At sealevel, were the big smooth boulders start, is a narrow buttress with aplite rock for the first few moves. Iisa goes up the center. A little gem. B. and P. Baxter, Jul 02.
These next few routes are on the east and north faces of the island. Walk around the south side of the island to them.
Kepler 13m 15 Finishes on the obvious orange slab on the front left hand side of the Island Zawn buttress. Climb the short steep crack which continues up through the orange slab. Jim Duff, Robert McMahon, 1980.
Punctam Equans 20m 16 On the left of the east face as for Kepler. Climb a short line for 4m to gain the left side of the roof, traverse right under the roof and onto the large ledge. Finish by climbing the corner crack at the back of the ledge. Beware of the loose hold on the traverse. R.McMahon, P.Cover, 1980.
Simplistic View 20m 20 Climb the right-angled groove on the arête to the left of 'Boris'. Kim Robinson, John Forcett 1997
Boris 20m 18 The very clean short corner in the middle of the buttress. Laying away and jamming onto the large ledge. Finish up Punctam Equans. B.Yeltsin, 1980.
Astronomia Nova 20m 18 Halfway between the corner and the edge of the buttress. Up a short left leaning corner and straight up the steep face and shallow corner crack above to a step right and then up an easy crack back to the left to finish. R.McMahon, P.Cover, 1980.
Kopernigk 20m 15 The obvious line just to the right of Astronomia Nova. Up the crack in the corner up a series of steps. This line and Astronomia Nova have a common last 5m. Jim Duff, Robert McMahon, 1980.
Swash 20m 22 Around the corner to the right of the east face is a very impressive corner which starts in the sea. Simon Parsons, Phil Bigg, Doug Fife, 1982.
There are two routes on the short face further to the right. They are short and can be reached by abseiling or by coming in from the north.
Solar Plexus 16m 20 Start in the wee chasm 6m left of the northernmost part of the island. Massive step across from sloping buttress then up diagonal left leaning crack. B.Maddison, R.McMahon, C.Rathbone, 1981.
Aristarchus 15m 14 Just below and in front of the boulder at the right hand extremity of the island cliff. Robert McMahon, P.Cover, 1980.
There are a number of climbs in Island Zawn behind the island and around towards the base of White Stack. The next two routes are on the stepped buttress just right of the gulch separating White Stack. They make nice exit routes after climbing on the island.
Boanthropy 25m 14 The strong corner 5m right of the deep cleft topped by piled rubble. Robert McMahon, 1980.
High on the first piece of solid rock to the right of this buttress there is the following diagonal line.
Narcolepsy 15m 18 Climb the strong leftwards diagonal up to the bulging crack, and up this to the top. John Fantini, Ben Maddison, 1980.
Flying V 35m 17 Climb the obvious arête behind Island Zawn, the arête left of 'A Nice day for Kicking Goals'. Kim Robinson, John Forcett 1997
A Nice Day for Kicking Goals 25m 16 Downhill and 25m right of Narcolepsy on the left side of a wide broken face. Stay a metre or two right of the arete and a metre or two left of the break in the face. Ben Maddison, Robert McMahon, 1979.
Loose Possums 25m 15 Two metres right of ANDFKG is a break in the face. Loose Possums starts in the crack a further 2 metres right. Avoid the gully high up by climbing the rib on the right. Worthless. Dave Gardner, A.Holden, Jul 90.
Iona 25m 17 Two metres right of Loose Possums is another crack. Up this, then at one third's height take the thin right trending crack to the top. B Baxter and H Smith, May 2008.
IQ Test 40m 16 The basis of this climb is a fine curving off-width corner high up on the buttress.Start on the boulders at the base of the cliff below the crack. Ascend short steep face trending right to gain the corner and straight up this and then traverse off left to a small saddle with a tree to finish. Better than it looks and a good way to escape from Island Zawn. Robert McMahon, P.Cover, 1980.
Pipeline 35m 18 Takes a line several metres to the right of IQ Test following a crack up a series of neatly overhanging faces. A dark imposing line. R.McMahon, N.Smith, S.Moon, 1981.
Wavelength 50m 14 To the right of Pipeline is a beautiful traverse right takes you around the cliffs at about 8 to 10m above sealevel. Just traverse the most likely line. Fun. N.Deka, R.McMahon, M.Ling, N.Smith, 1981.
Access to the start of these climbs is normally by traversing in from sealevel from the ramp at the base of Lassie's Wall, but it isn't hard to descend at the other end.
The next climb is at the far side of Big Zawn and opposite Island Zawn. There is a large clean wall high up with a zig zag groove on its right and a bottomless crack on its left. Access is best facilitated by abseiling to the sloping terrace 10m above the sea.
Planet of the Ape Index 20m 25 Climb the crack to the right of the wall to a small ledge. From here head out left past three bolts. Eventually the arête is reached after a series of moves very challenging to people with a reach of less than 190cm (may be slightly easier if you've more reach or impossible if you've less). Continue up arete to the top. Gear is three u-bolts and some medium cams. Nick Hancock and a woefully short Andrew Bissett, Aug 01.
The next few climbs are on the south side of Big Zawn. They generally face north. The descriptions start at the detatched buttress and work to the right towards the back of the Zawn.
Amanuensis 10m 18 On the detatched pillar opposite Afternoon Shift. Ascend to the top of pillar. Solo down on the sea side of the pillar (crux). Ben Maddison, Robert McMahon, 1977.
Afternoon Shift 15m 17 The widening crack right opposite the back of the detatched pillar. Unpleasant. Jim Duff, Robert McMahon, 1980.
Bradwalda 20m 17 Start at the crack just right of the aplite seam on the semi-detatched buttress about 25m right of the detatched buttress. Climb straight up the crack to the top. There is an exciting grade 18 variant which moves right at two thirds height. Robert McMahon, Ben Maddison, 1976.
Helios 20m 15 The obvious line just above the finish of Bradwalda. Robert McMahon, Ben Maddison, 1976.
Dien Bien Phu 20m 18 Start 25m up the hill to the left of the finish of Bradwalda at the foot of the steep handcrack. Climb through the bulge and up the crack above. When this stops climb the slab above. Garn Cooper, Robert McMahon, Jul 90.
Moby Dick 15m 18 A variant start to Waterline. The continuation of the diagonal line down to the left. Robert McMahon, K.Bischoff, 1980.
Waterline 50m 16 Located on the left hand end of the wall that faces the land. The line is indicated by a steep slab near the top of the cliff which is split by a good looking crack. Start directly below this, and wander up to gain the crack which is pleasant enough but too short to really compensate for the rest of the climb. Robert McMahon, Ben Maddison, 1980.
Old Snossy 30m 18 Start 5m left of Penetration and 10m left of the back of the zawn, under the overhanging blocks. Up to green sling at 10m then up runout slab above. Ben Maddison, Robert Mcahon, 1979.
Penetration 30m 17 Deep in the gulch. The prow left of Crime of Passion. Robert McMahon, Jim Duff, 1980.
Crimes of Passion 50m 20 Located on the opposite wall to Waterline, the back wall of the zawn. It takes the line through the right hand end of the roof at half height. The rock is a bit woeful. Ben Maddison, S.Baker, 1980.
True, Like Ice, Like Fire 30m 23 As you traverse into Big Zawn you cross a narrow gap where the sea washes in, to get onto a large boulder. This climb starts from the top of the boulder. The pitons used as protection on the first ascent are no longer present. Bridge and face climb up the thin crack and continue up the ever steepening wall and into a small V-ledge and then up a couple of steps to finish. Robert McMahon, 1989.
