hows this for an idea, much like like the new routes thread, how about we have a thread for all the things we lose and discover as we go about our climbing business?

ill make a start with a camera we found on the track up to rysavy ridge. think it was a bit damp and not sure if it still works but perhaps theres some photos on it? havent had a chance to look at it yet.

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17 Comments

  1. Brett Williams

    Great idea and extremely timely since my partner Sarah and I just lost something of great value to us yesterday in a big day at Ben Lomond! I'm writing this from an internet cafe in Hobart with very little time left so will get the the point very quickly!

    Sarah and I are here on holiday from Melbourne, went to Ben Lomond earlier this week, climbed Barbe Di Vendetta yesterday at Frew's Flutes (awesome, awesome route by the way!). After finishing, we were unable to locate the abseil at the top of the cliff and found the descent gully a bit too wet, scary, committing, etc.. plus we weren't sure if that was the right descent gully.. so, with daylight fading we decided the best bet to just get off and back to our packs at the base of the climb quickly was to rap the route off trad anchors. We slung a huge bollard at the top which I'd used for the anchor originally and rapped down to the 2nd pitch belay where the in situ sling is.. backed this up with another cordelette then when pulling the rope it proceeded to get well stuck. I prussicked up a good way and unstuck it, rapped back down and we pulled the rope again. All good, rope was coming through great until the 2nd rope got stuck again while pulling down, after it had gone through the top anchor.

    After much flicking, yanking and cursing for probably 20 minutes or so it was clear that rope wasn't going to budge.. it still wasn't dark yet but getting late. We decided to rap the single 60 mtr line we had left, tying this off to the anchor and getting safely to the ground. We headed back to Carr Villa, thought about some way of retrieving our ropes but with abysmal weather up there this morning and no ropes to get down to that stuck rope it seems like a lost cause.. 

    So, we've lost two ropes: a red Sterling 10.1 and a yellow-ish Edelrid 10.1. They were both getting quite old and we were going to retire them soon anyway but it's a bad way to leave them, eh.. If anyone happens to be heading up to BL anytime soon and climbing that route, and furthermore manages to retrieve our ropes, we'd be super appreciative. You can contact me, Brett Williams on 0416 019 495 or brettw112@yahoo.com.au if you happen to get them..

    It goes without saying, but we also wanted to warn any climbers against attempting to prussic up the second rope as it's not anchored, just stuck! 

    Thanks!

    1. Doug Bruce

      Sorry to hear about your troubles, Brett. The rappel anchors were chopped, amongst much controversy, by Gerry Narkowicz and Doug Fife a number of years ago. (It might be worth spreading the word amongst all your mainland climbing friends so that they don't waste time trying to find the station). Opinion is still divided about whether there should be rappel anchors on The Ben; perhaps your post will re-stir the pot!

      Hopefully you will get your gear back before too long.

      Cheers

      Doug

      1. Brett Williams

        Thanks for the info, Doug, good to know we're not completely blind! No worries at all, hope we haven't ruffled anyone's feathers by bringing the issue up, certainly not our intention! Will pass on the message to friends in Vic (if it hasn't been already and we'd just missed it..)

        All the best,

        Brett

    2. Gerry Narkowicz

      Hi Brett,
      the removal of the rap station occured about 4 years ago and was well documented via letter to the editor in Rock Magazine, and also posts on all the major internet forums, as well as the Ben Lomond Guidebook which came out in 2008. The easiest descent gully is 100m to the east of the cliff top and might be wet at times, but not scary or committing. You may have been going down the steep one closer to the Flutes which is a bit scary. Frews Flutes has been returned to its original state as a totally trad climbing experience - which also includes the dsecent - and as you discovered, it is a fairly serious place to climb and does not pander to the consumer friendly convenience mentality which desires to take much of the adventure out of climbing. There is no point re-opening the debate as the rap stations are gone forever. However, I will point out that the removal of the bolts was not the sole decision of Doug and myself, but in consultation with about a dozen of the men of the Ben - the first ascensionists of the climbs on Ben Lomond - the only people whose opinion matters on this issue.

      1. Ben Thorp

        Interesting perspective Gerry.  It's good to know there was a consultation process but disturbing to hear that it only extended to 'the men of the Ben" who are the "only people whose opinion matters on this issue".  My understanding is that consultation processes usually involve discussions with all stakeholders which in this case could include anyone who may want to climb at the Ben.  I am sure this has been pointed out before......   I personally found the anchors very handy and I don't remember them drastically reducing the value of the trad climbing experience, though I am sure the walk down the gully is pleasant. 

        I wonder also whether there are any 'women of the Ben' who may have been included in the process?  Or is Ben Lomand a male-only zone?

      2. Mark Savage

        So if I put up a new route on the Ben does that also make me a god?

        I'm not saying that the current stance on bolts is wrong, but if the wider climbing community doesn't have ownership of the ethics at an area who will uphold them when the 'men of the Ben' are no longer around to pull the bolts?

  2. Jed Parkes

    I totally agree with you Ben but there's no changing Gerry's opinion on abseil bolts at Ben

    I have been through all this before, Gerry is under the opinion that "the men of the Ben" (the first ascensionists) are the only people who have any say on what happens at Ben. I think this is totally wrong! It's awesome all the routes they have put up there but that doesn't give them ownership.

    Gerry / Anyone I'd be interested to know 1. how long had the bolts been there before they where chopped? 2. Who originally put the bolts in?

    See old Poll

    http://www.esurveyspro.com/App/Polls/DirectPoll.aspx?id=9026

    http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/pages/viewpage.action?pageId=199098380

    Brett, that sounded like an shit epic! Glad u made it down ok. I've been down the wrong descent gully before and thought i was going to die...

    1. Ben Thorp

      Hey Jed,

      The bolts were placed by John Fisher (the original John Fisher not Crazy John) and I think they must have been there for 10 years or more.  I remember when I first started climbing he had put them in and it was a bit controversial but no-one chopped them.  I don't think John was included in Gerry's consultation process for the chopping.  It would be interesting to know what the justification was for chopping them after so long.   

      Ben.

  3. dave james

    wow simon, your lost and found thread has been really successful!

  4. Lyndon Johnson

    Heya back to lost and found,

    I lost a petzl shunt 2 weeks ago at the top of the totem pole abseil, on the mainland side. If anyone stumbles across it, it would be awesome to get it back. My number is 0431 616 341 :-)

  5. Jed Parkes

    Found muria velcro climbing shoes and down jacket at freuhauf last Wednesday (Posibly left there Tuesday night?)

    If yours let me know 0427303488

    If not anyones 4 sale muria velcro climbing shoes and down jacket will take belays as payment :)

    Jed

  6. Tony McKenny

    Anna Brooks lost a big cam at Lost World last week (30 March). Would love to have it returned if anyone finds it. Thanks. Tony.

  7. Tony McKenny

    15 April. Found on Just a Little Bit Longer - newish long sling.

  8. Roger Parkyn

    FOUND, Hexentric at Rocky Tom

    On about 14 Apr 2012. Was probably being used for a top anchor. Call me on 0417 131 611 if you want it back. 

  9. Doug Bruce

    LOST: MIURAS - SIZE 38

    Di Batten thinks she must have left a pair of size 38 Miuras at Waterworks on Tuesday, the 24th of April. She's just been back to look for them but they've gone. Please call her on 0457 806 417 if you know of their whereabouts.

    Thanks

    Doug

  10. Laurent Besnard

    LOST: a full set of 1 year old DMM brass nuts in the last 6 - 7 weeks. No idea where they could be.  Could have been around launceston, or the lost world maybe. In case you've seen them having a nap on a ledge, I would greatly appreciate.

    Cheers

    Loz

  11. alex lewis

    LOST: Black and Silver Julbo sunglasses, probably left sitting at the base of Rysavy Ridge when packing up a few days ago. If anyone is up there and finds them then would love to get them back. some sort of cold beverage reward. 0438 587 729 Alex