Blog from February, 2012

See links below for topos and descriptions of latest new routes at Fingal ad Ben Lomond

http://climbnortherntasmania.wordpress.com/2012/02/26/ballbreaker-hardest-multi-pitch-on-ben-lomond/

http://climbnortherntasmania.wordpress.com/2012/02/26/another-28-at-fingal-updated-topo/

hows this for an idea, much like like the new routes thread, how about we have a thread for all the things we lose and discover as we go about our climbing business?

ill make a start with a camera we found on the track up to rysavy ridge. think it was a bit damp and not sure if it still works but perhaps theres some photos on it? havent had a chance to look at it yet.

For anyone who doesn't regularly visit Chockstone, you might like this beautiful little video recently produced by Simon Carter.

On Bended Knees                    45m   16

The upper wall of Flange Buttress. An alternative finish to Fiddlesticks or Bert’s Fear.

From the Brown Madonna rap station, at the top of Fiddlesticks, climb L and up the broken slabs and corner, as for Bert’s Fear, to a hand crack splitting the steepening wall,Bert’s Fear heads R here into the corner-chimney line.

Jam up the hand crack and when it runs out traverse L to the finger crack just R of the nose. Up the finger crack to a large ledge and surmount the piled blocks to another ledge.

Traverse up and right for 3m across the chimney to two U bolts beckoning an abseil. (Top access to Pleasant Screams).

For the true direttissimo, however, climb through the bushes, through and over more blocks a further 10m to the top of the Column. Reverse back down to the bolts to abseil.

P. Robinson, T. McKenny, 10/2/12

Just returned from a climbing trip, valle di mello, arco and kalymnos and moved to hobart

Very keen to climb some stuff before Uni starts on the 27th feb. Cape huay, freycinet, pipes, ben lomond, frenchman's. i'm up for anything!

0416816183

simon

Popped out for a quick climb at Punchbown Reserve in launceston recently, We live nearby and have climbed there a couple of times now. 

I have noticed that someone has put in some bolts on a couple of climbs and was wondering if anyone had done any documenting of them? Being a bit on the new side, i would be keen to know how hard they are and what sort or quality they are.

im sure i will head back sometime soon, i will grab some pics.

cheers

 A new route at Arthur's Circus.

 Double Trouble or Triple Treat                 37m       17

The pillar at the N end of Arthur’s Circus.    A traverse, a wall and cracks with a few perched blocks on the way. Trad.

Start as for Polymorpha; abseil in to a block at the bottom of the corner.

Climb 4m up the left edge of the wall to gain a hand traverse sans footholds. Place some gear and head right without hesitation for 3-4m to the nose.

Steeply up the nose until one can move to easier ground. Belaying to a tree here will avoid rope drag.

Climb gently over two large stacked blocks just right of the nose to hand cracks.

Move carefully past a loose flake above these to the top of the pillar joining Polymorpha for the last few metres.

Phil Robinson, Claire Hewer, Kim Robinson      Jan. 2012

Claire on “Double Trouble or Triple Treat”  :-