Heading into Federation Peak at the end of the month to attempt Blade Ridge / NW Face Direct, and was wondering if anyone had done the routes? Specifically, wondering what sort of rack is necessary? Do you need big gear for the roof crack on NW Face Direct? Also, what's the approach down the gully to the base of Blade Ridge like? Is it all scrambling, or are abseils required?

cheers
Cam

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8 Comments

  1. tony mckenny

    Hi Cam,Stu Scott and Phil Robinson climbed them a couple of years ago and should be able to advise - Phil is in Europe at present but is due back in a couple of weeks. Cheers
    Tony McKenny

    1. Cam McKenzie AUTHOR

      Thanks Tony

      1. Cam McKenzie AUTHOR

        One week to go. After speaking to Ivan in the gym last night, it appears that going down the Forest Chute is the way to access Blade Ridge, rather than down the gully that you use to access the NW face.

        Would still like to get some gear beta if anyone's in the know. Tony do you have an email address for Phil?
        cheers

        1. Jon Nermut

          good luck with the weather!

          1. Cam McKenzie AUTHOR

            Yeah, not looking so good at the moment. I'm positive that it's going to rain until next Friday and then be perfect for our trip though.

            1. tony mckenny

              Hi Cam,
              Don't think I should put it on the web without his permission... will phone him, but where/how could he contact you other than on the Forum?
              Tony

              1. Cam McKenzie AUTHOR

                No worries Tony, my email is cameron@unico.com.au.
                cheers

                1. Cam McKenzie AUTHOR

                  Back from the trip. Epic. Didn't manage to get on Blade Ridge due to the weather, but suprisingly we did manage to get on the NW Face Direct on Sunday. We did a couple of new pitches to access Blade ridge which were quite good and looked much nicer than the standard approach. Climbing and rock were all good. Exposure and seriousness of the route were huge. Crux wasn't the nice overhanging hand crack with jugs at the top as expected, but rather a moss filled offwidth filled with chockstones with wet slopers on top. Needless to say, I fell off, the gear luckily held (3 camelot behind a dodgy looking chockstone) and then I proceeded to aid up it in the rain. We topped out after about 8 hours of climbing in the pouring rain. Luckily the afternoon before we'd scoped the way up the climber's gully and worked out the abseil route back down, so we were back in camp an hour after topping out. It snowed a fair bit on Sunday night and we beat a hasty retreat in the rain for the next two days. Epic!

                  Standard rack of wires and cams from .3 - 4 camelot was fine.

                  Anyway, I've updated the guide with a bit of further information about access and the route.