Guide hosted and printed by
Dear climbing community,
During 2021 and 2022 the CCT received a significant increase in the number of requests for better guidance on fixed anchor placement on the Organ Pipes. Accordingly the CCT held a community forum seeking input from climbers who have established new climbs (of any style) on the Organ Pipes in recent years to consider whether the community might benefit from publication of guidance statements for this particular cliff. The response rate was very high with only 1 among 19 climbers approaching expressing antagonism to the project. A robust forum was held in person with a broad array of views being discussed. A set of guidance statements were created and unanimously supported among those who participated. The working group, which included most of the Crag Stewards for the Organ Pipes, suggested that the statements will be published in the introductory/ethics section of Organ Pipes guidebooks.
Apologies for the slight delay in publication. It is timely to share the guidance statements here ("section 1"); inclusion in the guide will follow shortly. Note that section 2 details how the working group was formed and will be published separately on the CCT members page only.
I would like to thank the community members who gave significant time and thoughtful feedback to this project. I hope your efforts and leadership will help preserve the fantastic cliff character that you have participated in creating.
Hamish Jackson CCT president.
Last couple months I've been developing a new crag at Fortescue Bay (Canoe Bay) with some crew. It's now posted under the Fortescue Bay guide. Trad climbing with some mixed routes and an easy approach. A great summer weekend option if you're camping down there, hopefully also provides good winter climbing too. Please enjoy.
In the backcountry at Burstall Slabs in the Canadian Rockies
If you've ever done any sport climbing in British Columbia at Skaha Bluffs or across the border in Alberta, chances are that you've either climbed a route that Jon built, or used a guide book that he authored or contributed to significantly. Jon visited Tasmania several times and absolutely loved it here - especially being at Freycinet. One of my greatest climbing memories is of the day that Jon, Di and I did hiked over to Flowstone Wall and did Arocknaphobia together. Another day high on the list is when Jon took us to Burstall Slabs, which - like Flowstone - is a place where you've got to hike for at least a couple of hours for your reward. Back in the day when Jon and his mates were developing Burstall they used to leave a gear stash at the crag. They'd make an early exit from Calgary, drive to the road head and jump on their fully rigid mountain bikes then ride to the crag.
If you met Jon or are curious to learn more you might appreciate this tribute to him in Gripped Magazine: https://gripped.com/news/iconic-canadian-climber-jon-jones-dies/
Jon and Di scoping Burstall Slabs from the approach
due to the recent heavy rains, vehicle access along the beach at Cloudy Bay to Cloudy Corner is not at present allowed, or indeed, viable.The gravel approach to the concrete ramp is deeply trenched. Still, camping at Cloudy Corner is permitted, and it is a nice 30 minute walk, or 15 minute cycle, to get there.
Also, just notifying a nice little new area called Shoreline has been opened up on the side of Beaufort Bay.
Hey there - CCT AGM as per title. For the southern crew we have booked upstairs at The Duke (South Hobart) and will connect to Northern crew via Zoom starting 7pm. Agenda will be pretty much AGM focused, starting with a general update on the years activities and current issues. Kitchen downstairs opens at 1730 for those who want to grab a meal first.
It’s a bit early I know, but it’s never too early to get your Christmas tree set up and into the festive spirit for a great cause. In support of the newly formed advocacy group for sustainable vegetation management on cliffs, we have available for pick up only from step tier a number of freshly cut Hakea and other native species perfectly sized for Christmas trees. This is a bit of an opportunistic fundraiser and hopefully the last of its kind, but it would be a shame to see them go to waste. We are hoping the wider climbing community can get behind leaving your saw off your rack, in support of not cutting down or pruning trees at crags anymore!
If anyone goes to do lone stranger please take care. It might be worth taking a leaf blower and broom to clean it up a bit, it is covered in dirt due to recent clearing of trees from the ledge above and the resulting destabilisation of the dirt on the ledge. This will likely be a long term problem.
We found a blue belay device beneath Wedgetail 3 weeks ago (sorry, have been slow to post about it). Looked like it had been overwintering on a tree. Be in touch if you think it's yours.
We have lots of extra kid-size shoes, up to about size 7 adult, that do not fit anyone around here anymore. Free pickup in Cremorne, or could drop off at gym. Small harness, too, fits ~8 year old.
Also have some Telemark T2 boots (green ones) if anyone teleskis–size US 10.5 (too small for me these days)–maybe trade for something.
There is some true gold in the Tasmanian Tramp magazines. Does anyone know if these digitised anywhere? Great stuff! (Is there a Tasmanian climbing library that has a set of these?)
hi i found a little red bag with some shoes and chalk in at waterworks today. happy to return to owner. cheers
Was out looking for boulders today out the back of Sand River (didn't find much), but did spot this sick looking orange wall that I'm unlikely to develop so I thought I would record it's location for posterity.
If Forestry gave out the key to the gate (they don't - I've previously asked - they say they won't because you can get into the army range from this road), this would only be a ~300m walk from the road, but instead it's ~5km from the gate, with a decent bit of uphill at the start. Maybe 25 minutes on an e-bike. Or even better a motor bike.
There is more rock in this valley, but didn't spot anything anywhere near as good. Upstream there is grey rock near the creek (canyon) but it's a bit vegetated. You can see some more orange stuff at the mouth of the valley just to the south of Justin's place on the way out from Sand River, but it's (probably) on private land. But if anyone develops this it would be definitely worth exploring downstream to the boundary of the public land.
There were two men (and a dog) checking out the cars parked by the road at Sand River yesterday (22nd July) - they drove off in a van when waved to as we approached. Maybe all very innocent but... Take valuables with you I guess.
I've been enjoying the Lowdina renaisassance lately, working through a full spectrum of easy and moderate routes. I'm curios about Expiry (13) on Lumbar cruncher buttress. In the topo photo which can't be very old at all there is a large chockstone visible in the offwidth. This was missing when we climbed the route the result being its seems pretty arduous for the grade.
Did somebody make the world a safer place or did it fall out by its own volition?
Found a polarfleece at the top of the sandstone cliffs in Waterworks Reserve Mon 11th July.
If it's yours let me know colour and brand and how to get it back to you.
Crag Care is running a working bee at Fruehauf on the 17th of July from 9-12 noon with the Hobart City Council Bushcare team. The council has asked that we close the cliff during that time! But it'll be back open straight after the working bee has finished.
Come along! It should be a nice morning of planting, weeding, chatting and cake. More details here: https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/event-details/fruehauf-working-bee