New Routes and News 2015

On Central Buttress :

★ Cognitive Dissonance 28m 22 12Þ
The line up the face and arete between Faust and Spartan Ethics. There is a thin and balancey crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and another tricky move at the roof, the rest is about 20.
Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Jan 2015.

From Bill Baxter

Hillwood

Ethel the Cow. 15 m, 12
Bluebird of Happiness. 25 m, 18 *
Chicken of Despair. 22 m, 17
Centipede Parking. 30 m, 15 *
* = bolted as 2 pitch routes but, can be climbed in one run-out. 60 m rope required if lowering off from the top bolts.

The Far Side has a big crag feel about it. Even though the grades are easy, it is not a place for inexperienced leaders. A couple of the climbs lead to the top. This enhances the ‘big crag’ feel. The summit ridge is a great place to end a climb, relax for a while, enjoy the view, then scramble back down for another climb. The crag is more than 30 metres high and it is a slab, not a vertical wall. At the base of each climb is a small name tag.

CAUTION. This crag leans back. Therefore rocks and blocks lean against the main face and haven’t yet tumbled to the ground. The obvious, dangerous ones, have been levered o, but some large secure looking ones have been left. Use your own judgement! It is a new crag, holds will break o. Dirt and small rocks seem to collect from nowhere on the ledges. WEAR A HELMET.

Peregrine rules apply. Please stay away between August and December. I am not certain about the grades and would appreciate your opinion on this. SMS 0467 624 874.

Thanks, Bill.

★  Alpine Style 22m 20 8Þ
This route takes an orange face around the back of Kacktus Buttress that is clearly visible and accessible across the other side of the gully from Princess and Nefarious. Short scramble up to the start. A bit manky at the start, good face climbing up higher.
D. Humphries, J. Nermut, Jan 2015.

At Kempton Quoin :

Tourette's Pillar
This little 15m pillar about 50m left of Smashed Wall is dwarfed by the two huge buttresses on either side and above it.

★ 4. Tourette's Syndrome 15m 21 6Þ
Up the front of the pillar with 6 FH. Rap off the shared rap station on the ledge.
Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Feb 2015.

5. 15m 17
The crack where the pillar joins the main buttress. Not too bad for this kind of thing.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Feb 2015.

Heya folks, 

A mate & I just got back from an A - K traverse of the Western Arthur's, squeezing in a bit of climbing along the way. We weren't sure when the last group passed through with gear, and had a good ol' time on some smaller crags putting up some new routes, and finished off with a fresh multi-pitch on a fairly prominent feature above Haven Lake. (Mostly) good weather & a ton of good times. Only downside was not being able to repeat some of the established climbs earlier on in the range due to a rare nasty patch of wind & rain. The climbing around High Moor was particularly fun - steep, juggy & plenty of pro, but there is heaps of new routing potential pretty much everywhere (some epic lines above Lake Oberon). I've added some sections & new routes to the guide for reference. Hope all is well & dandy. 

Cheers, Nick. 

New Organ Pipes climb

Clutching at Straws         28m       17

Directly below the Moonraker Step on the shady south side of Step Tier at the foot of Teardrop Gully are a series of short cracks on the wall leading to the Step. Start at the base of the lowest crack on a grassy ledge.

Smear a foot on the wall and lay off to reach good holds 3-4m above. Continue by a flared jam or pinching the rib. Scramble up 2-3m to the steep corner above. Good technical climbing to reach a bush which provides a welcome break and continue up the V corner. Follow easy but potentially slippery ground above to the Step. Rap off a sling or continue up Moonraker.

Phil Robinson, Chris(Basil) Rathbone 5 Feb. 2015

Step Tier S(Phil-new line).jpg

Organ pipes news: the road up the mountain (pilinger) will be closed wednesday 18/02/2015 9am to 1pm, there is a big yellow sign up saying this on the drive up. Happy Climbing

 On the small buttress beside the track from Breaker Spur towards University Buttress.

A couple of metres north (R) of Aperitif, buried in the bush is a hidden secret, a  steep,  black streaked wall. Short it may be but pumpy and quality climbing. Up the wall and arête, trending L near the top to DBB.

T. McKenny and O. Gervasoni, Feb 2015

The yellow overhanging arête above (The Light Half) is at present a project, needing considerable cleaning to make it safe.

Just added a new one at Waterworks.  Might have been done before?

★★★ Lateral Entry   60m  25/v5

A full traverse of the base of the cliff - Start at the The Blind Leading the Crippled then keep going all the way left. A few cruxy sections mid-way requiring some fancy footwork and delicate matching. Go highball to get around the tree against the cliff at one point. Great fun and quite the concentration test with 30 or 40 minutes of climbing on the onsight.

Couple new ones at Flinders. Sorry Niels about dropping the name Sky Pirates. I had to keep the Goonies theme going. These two climbs were led placing all the gear on the redpoint send. I doubt that anyone will ever again bother pulling the gear out of Truffle Shuffle between burns. Plenty more in Goonies Cave left to climb. 20 metre roof anyone? There were a bunch more climbs sent on the last trip(s) soon to be written up including the incredible line L of Diana Palmer sent by N. Tietze. That one overhangs at least 15 metres all on gear! Movie to follow...

★★ Offhand Comment  25m  27

Killiecrankie. First crack L of Grunter. Crux is a short flaring hand crack with excellent pro. Finish up 15 metres of grade 22 fun. All gear. DBB

J. Fischer, N. Tietze, S. Young 17 Feb. 2015

★★★  Truffle Shuffle 25m 29

Killiecrankie. In the big cave with Diana Palmer that the guidebook calls Skull Wall but will now and forever be known as Goonies Cave. Tie into 2 ropes. Up to first bolt of Diana Palmer. Traverse R a few metres and then downwards and out the 10 metre roof. At the lip of the roof, wack in double knee bars, place a nest of gear for the 2nd rope then chuck off your first rope and finish up the crux 10 metre overhanging headwall taking the L hand crack. All gear + or - the bolt on DP. DBB

J. Fischer 22 Feb. 2015

There is a new guide to 4 routes at The Needles here: The Needles

And Roger has written up a new route on University Buttress :

★ 8. Blind Vision 50m 22
A complex and varied outing.
1. 29m 20 Starting at the hand-crack between Ozy and Blank Generation, climb up to the orange dihedral (at 15m), up that, then right slightly and up easier ground for another 8m to a DUB. This pitch can be done as all trad or, optionally, the last 9m can be climbed via four U's left of the trad version. The U option is about 22 and climbs quite nicely if you can resist the temptation to move right to the easier ground (yes, it is a bit contrived).
2. 18m 22/23 Climb the left side of the arête above the belay via 3 U's. An easier section follows (no U's but a small/medium wire or 0.5 Camalot can be used if wanted). There are then three U's leading through the subtle features of the headwall section (crux) to a DUB.
R. Parkyn, O. Gervasoni, Mar 2015.

Two more routes on the short wall on right of Aperitif Buttress, between University and Bulging Buttresses:

Catch the Sun in Flight   11m 16 4Þ↓

The bolted line on the left. Neat face climbing trending slightly L to DBB

O. Gervasoni, T. McKenny, A. Adams, March 2015

Sparkle    10m     19  5Þ↓

Fun climbing through the roofs on the pillar 2m right of Shades of Grey.

T. McKenny, O. Gervasoni, D. Stephenson, April 2015

Kempton

Given the recent spate of new sports climbs at Kempton, this one is a bit of a rarity - a classy trad climb on good rock!

Moonshine Buttress

 About 40m right of the Tourette's Pillar and just to the left of the deep chimney/gully that defines the LH end of Smashed Wall is a steep yellow buttress, capped by a projecting old gum. The face is split by a weakness which divides high up into two cracks.

*** Copperhead Road   42m       22

Excellent climbing on good rock – take plenty of small gear for this gem!

1. 14m       12           Climb the initial wall to the left of the massive flake to a DBB.
2. 28m       22           Step right and follow the main corner to the rooflet, then bridge and technique your way with difficulty up the steepening narrow gut to a rest. Superb crack climbing finishing up the LH crack to DBB.

FA: O. Gervasoni, T. McKenny, May 2015.

Quote from Owen's entry on thecrag: "The chossy dolerite of Kempton somehow, improbably, delivers a 25 metre pitch of arapiles like stone and climbing. If you have been to Kempton, I forgive you for thinking im lying, or mad, or both."

Some routes added at Freycinet by Nick Hancock:

At Inchman Crag:

★★ 17. Inchworm 15m 23
Climb the overhanging L facing corner crack on the far L of Inchman crag. Strenuous with good protection.
Nick & Heather Hancock, May 2015

At Mt Amos L of Incipience:

★★ 23. The Wolfpack 35m 24
Climbs the big L facing corner 20m L of Incipience.
1. 20m 22 Climb a shallow groove then a sharp arete to a DBB.
2. 15m 24 Step R and bridge up the corner to a crux at the very top, DBB.
Nick & Heather Hancock, June 2015

Between Uncle's Hair and Titus Alone:

★★★ 28. Travels with my Wife and Pet Wookie 50m 24
A thoroughly enjoyabe excursion up the middle of the blank triangular slab.
1.15m 24 Climb steeply up to a slight R facing groove at 5m, then more easily to a DBB on a ledge.
2.35m 22 Climb up nicely featured rock to a very thin overlap and then up to a DBB.
Nick & Heather Hancock, Ben Griggs, June 2015

James Trainer has written up the routes on the boulder just past the yellow gate at Kempton Quoin :

1. Fizzle Pop 7m 23-25? Þ
The left hand route. Start on the juggy break and head left before shooting up the face by a cruxy maneuver. Still a project probably 23-25ish, all are welcome to it.
★ 2. A Puff and a Push 8m 22 Þ
Start as for Fizzle Pop but veer right and up towards the obvious left leaning groove. Finish on same anchor as FP.
James Trainer. Feb 2015
★ 3. An Extended Puff and a Push 11m 24 Þ
Start as for either A Puff and a Push or Bossy Boiler and head straight up the black streak to then anchor.
James Trainer, Feb 2015
★★ 4. Bossy Boiler 13m 25/26 Þ
Surprisingly technical and pumpy climbing up the middle of the boulder.
James Trainer, Feb 2015
★★ 5. Pumping Pistons 8m 27 Þ
Start matched on the obvious rail and slap your way up the arête then through the bulge. V6/7 bouldering on a rope.
James Trainer, Feb 2015
★ 6. Bubbling Boilers 8m 25/26 Þ
Start on the right hand juggy rail and punch up through the steep bulge to finish on the same anchor as PP.
James Trainer, Feb 2015

May have been climbed before but not written up and no signs of previous misadventure. Hazards main wall. A fun route, climbed ground up to keep things honest. 

Ocean Drive 65m 20/21 

Start up Full Sail Direct until 3m above roof, then traverse R into corner/ledge system and up right to arching overlap. Along this to its R end, up and over,  step right to a good cam in a horizontal. Blast up the slab aiming for the anchors on The Axiom (FA went up black streak but follow your nose). A worthwhile outing and a mega single pitch. The hardest moves are the start but the top is enticingly bold.

Alex Lewis and Kate Tasker Aug 2015

6 new routes at Kempton Quoin in the last few weeks, listed below L to R.

There are now 52 routes listed in the guide (including a few projects), up from 25 a year ago. This after basically no activity for 20 years - when Roger was last active out there 

On Spiders Buttress: (Blood Buttress sounds better I think?)

★★ 13. Blood 25m 21 10Þ
Climb right of the first two U's. At the third U traverse left (crux) with 3 roughly at chest height: looks improbable at first but invisible side-pulls appear when needed.
Owen Gervasoni, Roger Parkyn, Sep 2015.

On Moonshine Buttress:

★★ 16. Methanol 16m 25 Þ
Devious and sustained face climbing on the upper wall left of CR. Climb bolted access pitch to ledge up and left of first belay on CR to gain start. Six bolts lead to the CR rap station. Best to climb right of bolt 2, then move left at bolt 3.
O Gervasoni, R Parkyn August 2015.

★ 19. Moonshine 25m 22 Þ
The arête right of CR. From first belay on CR, traverse right to bolt, then up to roof at base of the arête. Turn roof (with an assist from the adjacent buttress), then onwards to a DBB.
O Gervasoni, J Ridder, R Parkyn August 2015.

To the R of Damage on Wedge Buttress:

★ 25. Gold Quoin 12m 20 5Þ
Follows the U's up the shallow groove. Steep and sustained but there's always holds of some sort. Double U belay or lower off.
Roger Parkyn, James Ridder, Owen Gervasoni, Aug 2015

To the L of The Right Stuff:

★★ 27. Marginal Call 20m 21 9Þ
It all started with a lot of leverage. Climb the gently overhanging shallow corner, mostly on big positive holds. Provides some strange and funky moves. Good rock.
Roger Parkyn, Owen Gervasoni, Sep 2015.

To the R of Emancipate Yourself:

★★ 34. Servitude 25m 21 Þ
Start up the corner to the R of Emancipate Yourself. At the 5th bolt, head R into the next corner. Tricky moves up this to a DBB on the ledge.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Sep 2015

At Kempton Quoin :

★ 33. Conventional Wisdom 25m 20 10Þ
Conventional Wisdom is that Kempton is a pile of choss. This route which climbs the pillar left of Emancipate Yourself doesn't disappoint - it's got it fair share of hollow flakes and shards. But it is a fun climb nonetheless. At the 7th bolt you can either scuttle right, or go direct at about grade 22.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Oct 2015.

Made it out to Marrawah recently for a browse. Stumbled upon some bonus half decent rock around the back of the main face whilst escaping the worst of the wind. Not sure if anyone else has already climbed something similar. Can add extra topo if needed.

The Ugly Duckling 12m 14

Locate secondary wall around to the left of the main face. Climb the blunt end arête directly above low ledge at its right most extremity. Take a large sling for belay.

N Morgan, E Budarick, Oct 2015

Short new route next to Bad Back, below Battle Cruiser.

*The Three Stooges 20m 18 7Þ
A bit of fun. Climb the middle of the face, moving right near the top. Mantle with style, and move back left to finish up the left hand arête. Rap off (20m).
The Three Stooges aka B. Bull, T. McKenny and S. Scott, Nov 2015.

John Fawcett and Grace Cumming have written up a very nice looking boulder field they have discovered on Mt Jukes, above Lake Burbury:

Jukes Boulder Field

By James Trainer at Dog Leg Crag (North West Bay River)

★★★ 13. Bloodhound 15m 24 Þ
The line in between Underdog and Hair of the Dog. Up the face through funky flakes and edges, at the 5th bolt join into and finish as per Underdog. You can also head left at the 5th bolt and climb the bulging headwall of Hair of the Dog at around 26ish. Totes classic, climbs like a gym route!
James Trainer October 2015

By Roger on Bulging Buttress:

★ 5. Whatever 25m 21 11p
On the lump of rock left of The Wizard. Grunty work through the overhang leads to some thinner moves on the arete (crux) and then mantle onto the ledge. Finish by lay-backing the fin of rock up to the anchors.
Roger Parkyn, James Parkyn, Nov 2015.

Another sharp little route below Battle Cruiser, next to The Three Stooges et al - ideal climbs for a summer's evening.... (we changed our corporate mind about the name!)

★      Living the Dream     12m   18 4Þ

  A hard bouldery start up and right, and then follow the vertical arête above. DBB.

M. Bailey, B. Bull, D. Bruce and T. McKenny, Dec 2015.

 at Kempton:

and one Dave did a few weeks ago

Crying "Wolfs"? Seriously?

Possibly the last one for the year. Could be 20, time will tell. On Flange Buttress in between princess and nefarious: