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Besides Gerry's new route on Stacks Bluff (see here ), to kick off the new year here are a couple of new routes on Great Tier. Both require a third pitch but are worthwhile climbing now.
★★ Schizophrenic 45m 21 Þ ↓
Takes a line up the middle of the column left of Blue Meridian. Start a couple of metres right of Doldrums at a short corner with a small overhang.
1. 25m 20 Tricky start through the overhang leads to pleasant and non-sustained face climbing. 8 Bolts to DBB.
2. 20m 21 Strenuous moves up the pillar to the right, then back left to finish on the next ledge. 7 Bolts to DBB.
The third pitch to the top of the column is yet to be completed.
Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries (alt), Jan 2012.
Twist in My Sobriety 40m 17
Takes a steep eliminate line up the buttress between Doldrums and Slow Combustion. Start below the blocky wall to the L of Doldrums, as for the Slow Combustion Direct Start.
1. 32m 17 Climb straight up to the middle of the large roof which is climbed direct (crux). Continue up the steep face above to a large ledge.
2. 8m 16 Neat climbing up the short wall to a second ledge. From here either finish up Slow Combustion, or up the obvious unclimbed third pitch, or traverse rightwards to the rap anchors on Schizophrenic.
T.McKenny, A. Beech, Dec 2011
Here's a rough and ready topo - Twist on the left, Schizophrenic on the right:
Overview
Content Tools
86 Comments
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
Unreported from a couple of weeks ago is Phil Robinsons direct finish to Digitalis:
“I cleaned out the last 10 metres to give a direct finish at about the same grade (18) as an alternative to traversing L, the classic way. It wasn’t meant to replace the old way it is an alternative finish. It doesn’t have to be just more jamming either, Kim and Claire came up with hardly any jams. There are layaways and bridging. I, of course, did jam it as it is easier that way for me!”
Phil Robinson
Description :-
★★ Digitalis 62m 18
A distinctive line with a very unlikely traverse. Start at the first crack system around the arête L of Brown Madonna.
1. 26m Climb the crack past small overhanging chockstone and continue past large flake to belay at base of corner.
2. 36m (a) Original route (a classic): Bridge and jam the corner for 26m. Traverse boldly out left across the wall when the large jug in the corner is reached below the bulge. Continue up, trend L along ledge and up past large loose flake to belay.
34m (b) Direct Finish: Pleasant climbing up the corner to the top.
Descent: scramble R to the rap station at the top of Brown Madonna.
Original Route: J. Moore, R. Williams. FFA: D. Bowman, M. Steane, Dec 1977.
Direct Finish: P. Robinson, C. Hewer and K. Robinson, Dec. 2011
Tony McKenny
Twist now has a third pitch after a Tarzan - like effort from Ian, swinging through the tree......and carefully removing loose rocks.
Twist in My Sobriety 40m 18
Takes a steep eliminate line up the buttress between Doldrums and Slow Combustion. Start below the stacked loose blocks below the roof to the L of Doldrums, as for the Slow Combustion Alternative Start.
1. 32m 18 Climb straight up to the middle of the large roof which is climbed direct (crux). Continue up and slightly R on the steep face above, climbing cautiously past a suspect flake to a large ledge.
2. 8m 16 Neat climbing up the short wall to a second ledge. From here either finish up Pitch 3, if you have the large gear, or traverse R to the rap anchors on Schizophrenic.
3. 10m 18 Up the crack in the middle of the face to the small overhang. Climb past the small tree, and up the off-width using the RH wall. A couple of large cams (4.5 or 5) help restore some equanimity. Rap off as for Slow Combustion.
Pitches 1 and 2: T. McKenny, A. Beech, Dec 2011, Pitch 3: I. Snape, T. McKenny, Jan 2012
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
Nick Hancock has written up a couple of new ones.
At a new area at Table Mountain:
★★★ Mission Impossible 25m 24 9Þ
Climb the beautiful blank groove with great technical interest past 9 bolts to a DBB.
Nick Hancock, Dec 2011
And on the left hand side of the Parrot Shelf cliffs at Mount Brown:
★★★ The Devil & the Deep Blue Sea 30m 24 8Þ
This climb traverses diagonally from right to left across the massive sea cave at the left end of the Parrot Shelf. An amazing climb in a mind blowing position, that looks three grades harder. Climb the first few metres of Low Road and then traverse out left with the hardest move in the scariest position, following bolts to a BB. You will need a few hand sized cams for the belay and the first few moves but then it's all bolts. It's quite easy to reverse the climb to retrieve your draws.
Nick Hancock, Jan 2012,
Will Bartlett
Finally discovered the truth behind the mysterious Suck Ethics left-hand variant...
Heaps Good 15m 26
Climbs the blank face to the L of the upper section of SE. Bolts and vision by Garry, only for the route to be stolen by the one and only Jake the snake. Could be a bit harder.
Jake Bresnehan 2009
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
Nick did the other route at Table Mountain:
★★★ Dizzy with the Vision 30m 25 14Þ
Five metres right, climb the wall leftwards into a groove and then up through steeper terrain via wonderful climbing, and 14 bolts to a BB.
Nick & Heather Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Jan 2012,
Also Roaring Forties on Great Tier has been devegetated, it's actually quite a nice lower grade climb underneath, with good descent options.
In other news Simon Young has done the FA of the last pillar at cape raoul to be free climbed.
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
Schizophrenic had its 3rd pitch done today, which makes it a really good long sport climb of good quality and consistency at an accessible grade. It's pretty clean but could do with some traffic.
★★ Schizophrenic 65m 21 Þ ↓
Takes a line up the middle of the column left of Blue Meridian. Start a couple of metres right of Doldrums at a short corner with a small overhang.
1. 25m 20 Tricky start through the overhang leads to pleasant and non-sustained face climbing. 8 FH to DBB.
2. 20m 21 Strenuous moves up the pillar to the right, then back left to finish on the next ledge. 7 FH to DBB.
3. 20m 21 Move left from the belay and up the black groove, then pleasant face climbing to the top. 9FH to DBB.
Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries (alt), Jan 2012.
Simon Young
one of the earliest pillars to be climbed at the end of Cape Raoul was the last to receive a free ascent. Garry Phillips and i went out to the Second Pillar of Hercules, Rebolted the route completed over a number of days, by different parties in an amazing effort in the year 1967. i think this first ascent, given the technology of the day, is one of the most impressive feats in australian rock climbing. Our route in no way supersedes the FA teams route, we just free climbed it with new bolts!
★The Last Post 35m 23
1) 15m 16 From the col between Pole Axed and Pole Dancer pillars, traverse R and squeeze up to a belay in a small, sheltered 'crows nest'.
2) 20m 23 Up right, slinging a horn before stepping onto the pillar proper. Clip first bolt before swinging round the arete and climbing it. crosses both sides of arete. Lest we forget.
FFA Garry Phillips, Simon Young 6/1/2012
30m abseil should stretch you back to the col from the summit.
all the guides that include Cape Raoul are pretty much outdated, as the quickest methods of reaching the end of the cape differ slightly now. as this was the 7th trip in 18 months for me, I'm planning to write an up to date beta-guide including gear/rack etc but get in touch if you want the low down in the next wee while!
Tony McKenny
The Process of Elimination
10m
20
4Þ
Takes the old top rope line between JBMHD and BLC, using the existing bolts. A little discipline is needed to eschew the holds on the other two climbs but it gives an independent and surprisingly solid climb. Finish at the BLC rap chains.
D. Gray, Jan 2012
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
Simon Young and Alex Lewis have done a big new route on Mt Anne's SE face, which Simon started as a solo effort a little while ago - Running On Air 220m 26AO.
Excellent blog on it by Alex here: http://alexlewisclimb.wordpress.com/2012/01/26/mt-anne/
Probably the hardest thing ever done on a Tasmanian wilderness cliff (depending on your definition of wilderness)?
Doug Bruce
Great effort by the lads and a really nice trip report, Alex. Well done!
Kim Robinson
Claire has finished her project on Cairn Column
★★★ Tularaemia 50m 25 Þ ↓
Climbs the arete of Cairn Column. From the base of Brown Madonna scramble up and right for about 100m to the spectacular orange face below the overhangs at the bottom of the Column.
1) 29m 25, 20 bolts
A sustained and technical pitch, step right onto the face at the 4th bolt then up through the overhang and arete above.
2) 20m 24, 15 bolts
Balancy climbing continues up the arete.
The extension is still a project.
F.A Claire Hewer, 2012
Simon Young
top job guys! does anyone else think that seems like quite a few bolts? is it ledgy or something? just a thought considering After Midnight has less than half in the same distance?
do look forward to climbing it though! :)
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
on a similar topic, I had reasonable success painting the hangers on Schizophrenic with this stuff which sticks to stainless quite well and provides a dull matt grey finish, pretty much eliminating the twinkling in the sun effect that makes a lot of big sport routes on the pipes stand out. Except for the ones I forgot to do. Pretty easy just to spray all your hangers/bolts before placing:
Simon Young
yeh i really liked that about your bolts jon! easily done at home, can use an enamel too to colour them brown/black. enamel will com off eventually in places but still much nicer not having shiny flat surfaces to reflect!
in a similar vein, would people like me to go paint the hangers on Freedom in the columns? think it would help easy the sparkly nature of that area! :)
not that i personally dislike sparkles....
Kim Robinson
Doug Bruce
Great to see so much new stuff happening. I bet when we get the tracks fixed up there will be an even greater outbreak of activity ...
Simon Young
hey kim, can't see your comment! is it just me that can't see any text??
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
Guy Abell has written up some routes he and friends did in the Gully at Elderslie back in 2009: Elderslie
There's probably quite a bit of potential out there. Just for kicks here are some old photos of some of the rock out there: https://www.dropbox.com/s/v7ozbno3m2cx8os
Roger Parkyn has been busy with some new routes, firstly at Cathedral Rock :
★ The Bishop 20m 20 9Þ
Climb up the steep face straight above the belay. After the fourth anchor the climb trends leftwards to a U and then goes further left and into a corner. Up this for a few more U's before climbing the last bulge on the arete right of the final corner. Nine or ten U's.
Roger Parkyn & Steve Goss, Dec 2011.
★ The Actress 20m 22 9Þ
Climb The Bishop to the fifth U then, instead of going left to the corner, blast straight up through the headwall. After 3 more U's go right into The Bells (instead of the flakey arete above). Nine U's.
Roger Parkyn & Steve Goss, Jan 2012.
★★ The Bells 20m 23 9Þ
From the belay climb rightwards to the first bolt then follow the line of U's upwards; sometimes using the arete but mostly on the face to its right. Gently overhanging and sustained; a great forearms workout. Nine U's.
Steve Goss & Roger Parkyn, Jan 2012.
And at Pavement Bluff :
★★ Bomber Command 45m 20
Right of LRDG there is a wall with three vertical cracks about 2m apart. This starts up the first (leftmost) of them and then crosses into the middle crack (the third crack is Desert Fox).
1. 32m 20 Climb the lefthand crack, which is supplemented with numerous face holds, until nearly at the ledge at 8m, trend right into the middle crack (joining it at the level of the horizontal break). Continue up the middle crack to the sloping ledge. The off-width crack before the ledge is easily passed on face holds. Good gear all the way.
2. 12m 15 Go left 1m an ascend the hand crack just right of LRDG.
Roger Parkyn & Steve Goss, Jan 2012.
And if you missed it Phil Robinson has added a route to Arthurs Circus: 'Double Trouble---- ' New Organ Pipes route
Simon Young
Alex and I recently had a pretty fun day out at Mt Anne. Assaulting the cliff ground-up, we came within metres of on sighting the entire route. after a fall on the crux, Alex lowered off for another attempt. He again fell at the crux, pulling straight back on and doing it to the top, hence the A0 in the grade. I followed it free and we think it's about grade 26. Apart from the first pitch the routes quite well protected, and steep. our tag line always hung clear of the wall.
Running on Air 220m 26A0
1. 30m 8 (solo) scramble up to a ledge a pitch below the free-standing pillar.
2. 35m 22 Up L on face before shallow corner. Up this until drawn out onto the arete before a small stance. Blast the R-facing corner above(crux) to belay on sloping ledge next to freestanding pillar.
3. 35m 26A0 Up into perfect finger crack. Squirm into the V-groove above, before desperately exiting this(crux) into a pleasant crack. Belay on spacious ledge.
4. 10m 17 Transfer belay up and to the left beneath hand crack on the lower ledge.
5. 25m 20 Fun hand crack. Step left where it steepens before heading back R up wide crack to belay (RPs) with some friendly loose blocks.
6. 35m 23 mantle onto ledge L of belay and up the shallow groove. this opens to accept good gear and fingers. Pass ledge and enter chimney. Step R at top for more wide action to the top of the buttress.
Now you must walk up a few hundred metres to confront the second, smaller buttress above. head to the low point in the centre. at the toe of the buttress is a wide hand crack. both routes on the face start up this.
7. 30m 19 Take the prominent hand crack. at the top, traverse R to find belay up behind a detached pillar beneath wide chimney.
8. 20m 18 Classic. Chimney your way up, placing gear in the chockstone. Shuffle up the final wide bit before returning to the horizontal realms.
Alex has a Trip Report up here.
Ive put together some photos here for your viewing pleasure. enjoy!
Simon Young
another new one for the Paradiso. #14 as marked in Jed's new topo
Man's Machine 32m 22 **
Start up the steep groove, past this onto easy ramp. Layaway up to small roof. Over this then up, stepping right for a few moves before delicately picking your way to the top. 10 FH plus lower-off.
Hamish Jackson
G'day Simon,
I'm not sure if we have met before or not, perhaps briefly at gym with Simon Parson's back in 2006 perhaps (?). I have just moved back to tassie and have been having a browse on thesarvo. Your Mt Anne adventure sounds really impressive! Regarding Man's Machine at Mt Brown - I haven't visited there for years but from the topo and description it is apparent that M.Machine is virtually the same route as the published route called "Dominion" (90% in common). I don't believe we left any trace apart from the description in the guide, and while the route was a fun adventure for us at the time, it was never going to be a classic or iconic climb, so it is not surprising it went under your radar!
It seems thesarvo guide has been updated continually online but contains a statement (just before the Dominion description) that is now quite out of date and out of place, that might have misled you: "No climbs exist for the next 30m or so until the point where a massive corner feature can be seen". This was once fairly accurate as Southern Exposure etc didn't exist, so Dominion was 30 R of the last climb on the Paradiso. Now this statement is wrong as Dominion is only metres to the R of Total Recall. I imagine this statement may have mislead you to believe this was an unclimbed line(?). The guide is however clear in identifying the sequence of lines and the position of Dominion to me is actually readily ascertainable on careful reading as it follows such a large feature no other climb can fit the description!
The routes are not identical, Dominion went through the right of the roof 40m up (the line of least resistance), then trended back left a metre to join your line again. I encountered loose rock about the same level as you while in a pretty run out situation. I placed an rp and lowered off gingerly then went back down from the top to retrieve the wire. Marcel suggested we place an anchor there, but I personally was not in favour bolting Mt Brown at all as I felt it's unique character was the potential for hard, naturally protected routes (we climbed ground up and at that stage no bolts had been placed at Mt Brown). Hence the route was left awaiting a bold finish.
I guess this type of error is one drawback to the Open-editing platform of thesarvo, as no one person applies the same rigour of a single editor (obviously there are considerable advantages to the system aswell).
This case raises a few other broader issues too, and my thoughts here at not meant to be directed specifically at you Simon. Those who believe in minimal impact can only ask that people with drills be mindful, which is a rather weak plea! Bolt chopping seems so destructive and confrontational. Keeping cliffs secret permanently is no longer an option with some many adventurous bolters! Many users of cliffs will appreciate the addition of the bolts on Dominion (including I must say Marcel, the co-conspirator in our ascent). From my perspective this incident is a personal disappointment as I happen to particularly object to bolts at this cliff, but obviously such a vision has been somewhat superseded at Mt Brown anyway. Who is to say that first ascendants should have any particular say over the destiny of that piece of rock? I am sincerely trying to get away from the idea that first ascents are acts of possession! Given most people will probably appreciate the bolts on Mt Brown, perhaps to retro-bolt existing climbs is gradually becoming acceptable, even if this case may have been in error?
Ethics are changing incrementally, they always have been, and I am out of touch with what the climbing community considers acceptable here. My observation is that ethical standards in Australia are largely (there are exceptions to prove the rule) decided from within the climbing community and then by the majority of current hard climbing activists. As such ethics have essentially changed for the convenience of being able to do more new routes, more easily. It is apparent to me on returning to Hobart that bolting next to natural gear placements has become acceptable on the Organ Pipes, and elsewhere (certainly My Brown). So too is clearing sizeable trees from the cliffs. I presume these ethical changes have either been quietly accepted, or collectively agreed upon perhaps on this forum? As returning user and hopefully new router on the Pipes, I would like to put it out there that I don't think this is the best way forward.
I'm not sure how to edit thesarvo topos, but I suggest we merge the descriptions for clarity, and relabel the topo. The topo might also include Six Bells Chime to avoid further confusion, I will suggest to Marcel assist as he knows that route well.
Jon - I will return for further contributions to thesarvo.... for now I note the direct start to Slow Combustion is the same route as Twist Sobriety (pitch one), and Brimful of Asher at Mt Brown is a piece of rock climbed long ago by me, but I'm glad someone else enjoyed it as a new route cleanly!
Cheers
Hamish
Simon Young
gday mate!
welcome back, good to have you back around mate!
Mans Machine:
as far as i can tell from the description thats still on thesarvo dominion takes a different line, the description is vastly different from the line i bolted. i know there is an easier looking arete about 12m to the R of MM, that leads up L past Random People to a good belay ledge. after the initial groove that felt much harder than 17, MM follows the corner essentially, taking on the roof at the far L hand side. i do believe it finishes on the same ledge, and would share about 4m of climbing. assuming of course that was a correct description.
as for bolts near cracks, there are natural placements on the route. i consider it acceptable at this crag that its a fully bolted route. and as far as i know, most people agree. i am happy to be corrected and would remove bolts if people felt that way. though i think its a case of people accepting there is a time and a place for sport crags. i feel most people can move away from the black and white approach that can realise not every situation is the same.
i couldn't agree more thought about the FA team not 'owning' a piece of rock. i honestly believe one should feel privileged to live in a place where there still is such amazing potential. i believe that each pitch of rock climbing has an 'best way' of climbing, i.e. if bolts are needed, where they go etc. the responsibility of the FA team is to try and figure that out, and create the best possible route they can, even if it means retreating and adding some folklore to it.
ethics definitely have changed, and will continue to do so. i think theres still progress to be made amongst some of the protagonists of new routes as many mistakes have been made. I'm more guilty than anyone on that front but am trying to fix up the many mistakes, i.e. mild steel components, poor quality lower-offs etc. for everyone, please never hesitate to tell me if you think i've gone and done something naughty that i shouldn't have, i can't take it.
as i said welcome back, its refreshing to have some robust, intelligent and mature ethical discussions for a change...
Hamish Jackson
Hi Simon,
drilling and gluing our shared rock environment is quite a responsibility in my mind; thanks for being open minded about criticism as it is often not easy to raise concerns with other climbers.
Unfortunately in this instance you have bolted over the top of an adventure climb! If in doubt, I think it is best to contact the people involved.
The details:
The line of Dominion essentially does follow the line indicated on your topo apart from the first groove and the roof section up high, I have confirmed this with Marcel. Once I can work out how to draw this on the topo I will indicate the variation pictorially. The description of D on Thesarvo is an edited version of our original description (not my editing), the original makes it a bit clearer in saying D starts on the arete to the R of the steep wall, below the corner. As you know, the major corner cuts left low down over to Total Recall (and left of MM). So, I haven't done MM, but as described and drawn it starts just L of D and joins it a few metres up then again deviates L at the roof; Random People is well to the R of Dominion and stays R. Many bolts of MM would be clip-able while climbing D, so MM really does dramatically change the character of D!
As for bolting the cracks at Mt Brown I think there things you have glossed over a bit in your reply!:
1) These bolts go over the top of an existing adventure climb, and you claim you were aware for a section of your climb! I don't think most people find this acceptable, but as I said in my earlier posting I understand ethics are changing so if you think differently I think you ought to express that view so others know the new playing field you are shaping. If instead you feel this was more an instance of confusion, again I ask you and others with drills to be mindful of adventure climbs and seek further information if they are in doubt. I presume most people support this position at present.
2) " I consider it acceptable at this crag that its a fully bolted route... though i think its a case of people accepting there is a time and a place for sport crags. i feel most people can move away from the black and white approach that can realise not every situation is the same". Mt Brown has a mix of route types, it is not just a sport crag or a trad crag, first ascenticianists previously have not followed a black and white approach. Most of the bolted routes at Mt Brown are mixed with natural protection, including many climbs of your own. Almost all accept that there is a time and place for pure sport crags (me included), but Mt Brown is clearly not one of them. I personally think it is pretty cool at Mt Brown that moderately difficult climbs like Supercharger, Kraken, Thunderbirds, Retrograde amnesia can mostly be done safely without using ANY bolts; but I accept that I'm in the minority here!
3) "each pitch of rock climbing has an 'best way' of climbing, i.e. if bolts are needed, where they go". Given so much of the big corner of MM/D can be done without any bolts at all I think this might call into question whether bolting it all over was the best way!!
If one can recognise these points made here I think that it will help the climbing community generally; otherwise I think retro-bolting over existing lines may become acceptable to certain climbers, and this will lead to unwanted conflict. I think there is also a risk in Tasmania that areas that were previously areas of mixed climbing become sport areas if people start to bolt next to the cracks, again this will create unnecessary conflict. I know many people who drill, you included Simon, have been quite mindful of this when creating new routes and this should be applauded as a maintenance of ethical standards for these areas (Mt Brown, O Pipes, Freycinet). In addition, some new areas will be developed as pure sport, and personally I hope some areas can be developed as pure trad too.
Thanks again for your open and non-adversarial approach Simon. Look forward to meeting you again on the crag.
Cheers,
Hamish
Jed Parkes
Hi Hamish,
I did up the topos for paradiso and i was down there yesterday trying to figure out the Dominion line.
The topo that is up there atm is a bit hard to see the line of Dominion because of the wide angle lens. the edges of the photo get a bit warped.
The photo below is a bit better angle.
From the description of Dominion it says "Climb the arete" which looks like it is just further right than Random People
I climbed "Mans Machine" yesterday, the first 5 meters is the crux, it's not 22 more like 20/21 so i downgraded it to 21 but that doesn't really match up with the Dominion grade of 17
Most of the Dominion description matches up with the line on the right, what do you think?
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
So Random People is pretty close to Dominion after the overhang start and more likely the retro? K2 is out of order as well - did you work out where it goes with respect to Six Bells Chime, Blue Lotus and Chasing The Dragon?
Jed Parkes
Yeah if i'm right Dominion crossed over the Random People belay and finishes where it meets Mans Machine. K2 is right of dominion and six bells
I didn't pay enough attention for six bells but i have marked what sounds right?
What do you think?
Hamish Jackson
Thanks Jed,
I just need to work out a few things about drawing on topos on thesarvo and I'll reply to your message.
Hamish
Jed Parkes
Hi Hamish, I'm working on a topo template atm to try and get the topos all looking consistent. Its still not finished though...
All topo's are in 2 formats .pdf is the original (the one that can be edited) and a .png (or .jpg) which you see on the web page.
The files are attachments on the page where the topo is.
eg mount brown. http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/pages/viewpageattachments.action?pageId=4489230
The pdf files require adobe illustrator to edit.
Let me know if you need any help, Jed
Doug Bruce
Hi Hamish. Nice to have you back and contributing to discussion on thesarvo. Interesting observations, but alarms bells rang when you said "It is apparent to me on returning to Hobart that bolting next to natural gear placements has become acceptable on the Organ Pipes". I don't believe this is so, it's certainly not acceptable to me or most other local climbers as far as I can tell. I'm wondering what you mean by "next to" and what part of the crag gave you this impression? While I think that the sport routes added to the Pipes over the years have really added richness to the crag, I certainly don't want to see the experience of climbing trad routes diminished by bolt popping up next to natural gear placements. While it's great to see the Organ Pipes becoming a more user-friendly crag, including increasing numbers of rap stations, we certainly want to preserve the trad ethic where appropriate.
Tony McKenny
Hi Hamish.
FYI, the first pitch of Twist is not the same as the direct start to Slow Combustion - they share the same start up the loose blocks of the Direct for a few metres (as we have already indicated in the current description), but then goes straight through the roof and R, not out L as the Direct does (according to the original description), and takes a completely independent line up the buttress between SC and Doldrums. It does not join SC (as does the Direct) on Pitch 1 or anywhere at all for that matter, but takes a discrete line to the R on the wall closer to Doldrums, climbing a second short wall (Pitch2) before finishing with the steep dog-leg crack on the final buttress (Pitch 3). If the current description is still not clear to you, let me know and I will re-edit it if necessary.
Cheers
Tony
PS Overall, the facility of everybody to edit is on balance a lot better than just one person trying to do it all, in my humble opinion. MUCH more likley to pick up discrepancies quickly rather than wait for some poor editor to eventually get round to it - and a much higher sense of ownership of the crag, the routes and the future among the curent group of climbers. The issue of climbers retrospectively claiming routes they didn't write up at the time of climbing is another issue we might need to debate - it has occured before and generally it has been amicably agreed to leave it with the first person to actually submit it. Over the years I guess we have all seen routes appear that we have actually been on before, in part or in total, just one of those things....
Hamish Jackson
Hi Tony,
thanks for your clarification, I think SC direct and Twist do diverge, but not until 3-4m above the roof. I went up there in late January and repeated SC direct...having read your clarification I think both climb descriptions may need some editing just to make things clear! There are evdiently restrictions on editing the Wellington Guide?
I was confused by your description of Twist as follows: "up the stacked loose blocks to the middle of the roof which is climbed direct (crux)". Am I correct (judging from your topo I have just found above on this blog!) that you probably did use the jugs on the left, and laybacked through the lip (on the left), then stepped back R onto the lip of the roof and followed up the crack above a few metres??? That is where we went on SC direct, and I think this should be made clearer in the guide too. You see, after reading the guide only I couldn't personally workout how you could have gone through the roof and avoided using the jugs on the left!
The climbing might a bit harder than 16, maybe 17, I may be a poor judge of these matters!
I didn't mean to imply that Twist wasn't an independent climb further up but rather it does encompass ALL of SC direct start.... to me it looks like they diverge a few metres above the big roof (we belayed there the first time, this time I did the whole thing as a single pitch).
Maybe Jon can edit SC direct start as follows: "Climb the blocky wall straight up to the middle of the roof. Hand traverse out L on good holds (fun) and move R over the roof lip (crux) to join the original line above."
IF I am right about Twist, maybe it should say "as for SC direct start until 4m above the roof, then continue up and slightly R onto the steep face above, climbing past a suspect flake to a large ledge." Otherwise i think people will, like me, be looking for alternative ways through the roof to climb Twist.
What do you think?
Tony McKenny
Hi Hamish,
Interesting... The description of the Direct is, as you say, up to the roof, hand traverse out left (it is a really good move or three, love it!), step up and then up the wall to join the original route (16) - but then the Original Route is actually on your left, not the right, and you obviously climb left to join it.
Twist goes up the 3-4m of crud to the roof, climbs it direct and right, no hand traverse L or lay aways etc, and climbs up to the R, up the shallow groove etc up the wall, next to Doldrums. The lines diverge at the roof, as I understand it, one goes left and up, the other goes up and right.... they certainly didn't share the way the roof is climbed or 4 metres of climbing above the roof.
Jon was up there on the day (he actually suggested the line, thanks, Jon) and I think would agree with the description as we posted it. The moves through the roof were quite technical, but like you I am not very good at grading - atually, I am hopeless! Al, who seconded it , and who has also done all three variants, gave it 18 (as did Ian when leading a second ascent) so that is what it got.
Like many new lines on the Pipes, they are but variants on a theme, often incorporating other bits of other lines, but we were fairly clear that this was essentially a separate line for most of the first and all of the second/third pitches and worth including for that. The Direct Start is just that, a Direct Start to SC.
Editing the Guide - yes, the editing of the Pipes is still restricted at present to the people who edited and re-published the Guide 6 yeras ago. It is proposed to open that wider shortly as part of a review of the Guide and an updating of the topos etc.
Cheers
Tony
Hamish Jackson
Hi Tony
To me Twist's way through the roof still sounds like what we did, but I may evidently be confused. It sounds like you have been through the roof two ways, and these are distinguished in the guide, so what we actually did doesn't really matter at all!!!
Again, I wasn't questioning the independence of Twist, just seeking clarification as I couldn't find a direct way through the roof apart from via SC direct. I give it another go when I get back there.
Cheers
Hamish
.
Gerry Narkowicz
New Route At Africa. See topo and trip report. http://climbnortherntasmania.wordpress.com/2012/02/06/africa-scary-new-route-pumping-up-the-psyche
Simon Young
Mark Savage
Now now Simon, don't be petty. There are only a finite number of words in the english language which can only be assembled in a limited number of combinations. Why the chance of two tasmanian climbers writing the identical thing is surely not so unlikely?
Tony McKenny
Work at Waterworks. A tonne of rock has been removed from the previously unstable area between Pathetic Nongs and OJL. There is still probably more to come down - CAUTION is advised if you are in the area! The foothold to the L of the crux of OJL went as part of the fall and the crux is now a tad harder.....
Jed Parkes
Don't removed to much unstable rock there will be no cliff left ;)
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
Managed to do a new route today despite the heat at the shadiest cliff around - The Green cliff at Neika:
★ Manfern Massacre 8m 23 3Þ
The short overhang on the far left of the buttress, right next to where the track goes up. Up through the roof to the arete - energetic moves on good holds.
Jon Nermut, Feb 2012.
From a couple of weeks ago at Waterworks:
Totally Awesome 21m 21 8Þ
Name says it all... Start a metre to the right of OFW. Climb past the bolts until you're at the anchors (you clip a couple of OFW bolts). All the obvious loose stuff has been removed, but I guess it will 'shed' for a little while.
Dave Humphries Feb 2012
Kim Robinson
Managed to finish this one off between the heat and the thunderstorm.
★★ The Brush Tail Extension 30m 28 Þ ↓
The two pitch extension to Tularaemia on Cairn Column.
1) 15m 27, 8 bolts
Fridge climbing up the two aretes to a tricky finish.
2) 15m 28, 8 bolts
Straight forward climbing interspersed with a thought provoking boulder problem.
Kim Robinson, Feb 2012
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
Should it be added to the guide as a separate route or does it make T. 4 pitches?
Kim Robinson
Yep.
★★★ Tularaemia 50m 25 Þ ↓
Climbs the arete of Cairn Column. From the base of Brown Madonna scramble up and right for about 100m to the spectacular orange face below the overhangs at the bottom of the Column.
1) 30m 25, 20 bolts
A sustained and technical pitch, step right onto the face at the 4th bolt then up through the overhang and arete above.
2) 20m 24, 15 bolts
Balancy climbing continues up the arete.
"The Brush Tail Extension" adds another 2 pitches, a couple of grades and 30m of climbing.
3) 15m 27, 8 bolts
Fridge climbing up the two aretes to a tricky finish.
4) 15m 28, 8 bolts
Straight forward climbing interspersed with a thought provoking boulder problem.
F.A Claire Hewer, Jan 2012, Extension Kim Robinson Feb 2012
John Fischer
New route at the Acropolis! The corner R of Fury. Start as for the first two pitches of Fury to get up to the grassy ledge.
Take Me to the River 200m 23
1)40m 17
1st pitch of Fury. Better than it looks. Bridge up R side of the Chimney than move left and belay below big corner.
2)45m 15
2nd pitch of Fury. Up sketchy chockstones and traverse L onto ledge and up chimney.
The first two pitches of Fury are average. The rest of Fury looks great but we opted for this...
3)35m 20
Easily up double cracks to ledge. Go 3 metres R of Fury to the overhanging laser fist crack! There is a "can of corn" size chockstone 15 meters up the crack. Finish just above chockstone on a "boogie board" rock. Belay takes #3,#4,or #5 cams.
4)30m 23
Woah. Continue up splitter fist crack a few meters until it is possible to traverse R to the next corner crack. Unfortunately you cant go straight up to the roof through the bush because of a hidden loose block(!). Up the R corner (wide 16) until passed the greenery then dicky traverse back L to the roof. Surprisingly good gear leads just L of roof to a sit down rest. Bomber gear at your face and some unbelievable holds give a 23 bomb bay roof crux into a 6 meter grade 18 OW. Belay takes finger size and #3's.
5)50m 21
Truly great. Up the beaut corner that starts fists and eventually fuses a few meters below the bushes. Thankfully the crack on the right opens up just in time! Take the whole rack for this baby. A .4 protects the crux at 35 meters but youll need the big stuff for the sting in the tail OW right at the top! The donga of rock at the summit is the finishing jug.
Gear: Set of wires and double cams from .4 to #3 and a single #4 and #5 with optional #6(for OW sissys) and extra #3 for 3rd pitch anchor.
John Fischer and Simon Bischoff 25 Feb, 2012
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
nice one, added it to the guide
is the original of that photo high resolution? have been looking for a good topo photo of the acropolis for a while
simon bischoff
hell yes, nice one dudo
alex lewis
Hey Guys,
Will and I just got back from a trip to the Tyndalls, where i repeated Deeper Water (27/28)
Great route and well worth the trip out there, go and climb it!
Trip report here if you're interested. http://alexlewisclimb.wordpress.com
Happy climbing
Hamish Jackson
Hi Jon and others,
I did a couple of new bits of climbing on the pipes over the last year as described below - could they be added to the guide? I attempted Monster Match ground up 6 years ago, but thoroughly scared myself by failing 3m from the top unable to find any gear and having down climb 8m to my last piece. This year I begrudgingly abseiled the line and removed a small flake 3 m from the top; this slot provided the key stopper placement.
Northern Buttress
1. *Monster Match Grade 20/23 30m
Climbs the shallow corner on the steep head wall between Pegasus and Centaur. Exposed position and great climbing up high, but slightly contrived in getting there; a few variants have been climbed as follows: a) Best done as a single 55m pitch (twin topes) encompassing Subterfuge (35m), then heading to a small roof 4m up and R of the great flake. Arrange good protection at roof then launch into unprotected upper corner until a single good mid-sized stopper can be placed 3m before the top. Here, either reach R to a steep crack and top out (scary grade 20), or continue up the corner direct (scary 23). Original start: b) 30m Break out left on to flakes from Centaur just below the roof at 20m. Climb the flakes and face 3m left of centaur (gr 18, spaced gear) to reach the upper corner as above; encompasses more new climbing, but overall the full pitch is less consistent than variant a).
Hamish Jackson, Tim Smith, David X 2012
Step Tier
2) ***''Face climbers Variant' to pitch 2 Moon-raker. 25m 17
Climb the arete R of the Moon-raker cracks until it merges with the original line.
Hamish Jackson Shumita Joseph 2011
Tony McKenny
Hi Hamish,
The line you describe seems to cover some of Xanthos which takes an eliminate line between Pegasus and Centaur from the bottom to the top steep wall Can you give us a topo or similar to show where you were climbing?
Thanks
Tony
Hamish Jackson
Hey Tony,
you are completely correct in that the first half of Monster Match as described above is in fact already covered by Xanthos, which I didn't realize had been described recently (2009)! I agree with your expressed sentiments- the climbing on that face is good value. I wondered about going up from the ground but haven't tried it that way - I'll have to give it go nx time i go up to NorthernB!
In terms of where I went: I haven't got a topo photo, I will take one sometime, but I understand your description well... Xanthos pitch two is exactly the way I finished my ground up attempt of Monster Match in 2006 - ie after backing off the upper corner of Monster M (which is 4m Left of Xanthos upper steep crack), I down-climbed down to the sloping cave feature near Centaur, and then went up the Xanthos upper crack (R side of headwall, one metre left of Centaur). Incidently, on the last section of Xanthos pitch one I didn't find there was a need to go over to Pegasus flake - would it not be better to describe Xanthos as a single pitch and exclude the step across to the belay on the flake?
So Monster Match description should be:
*Monster Match Grade 20/23 15m
Climbs the shallow corner on the steep head wall between Pegasus and Xanthos. Exposed position and great climbing. Access: either climb Xanthos until a small roof is reached 4m up and R of the great flake and then head left into hanging corner at Left side of Xanthos headwall, or better still for a mind bending lead and more consistent experience use Monster Match as a fitting continuation of Subterfuge (heading up R off the great flake). Climb: Arrange good protection at rooflet then launch into unprotected upper corner until a single good mid-sized stopper can be placed 3m before the top. Here, either make balancey reach 2m R (scary 20) to Xanthos upper crack, or continue up the corner direct (scary 23).
Hamish Jackson, Tim Smith, David X 2012
PS Personally I think writing up new routes is primarily for historical interest and secondly to inspire others to climb the line, and is NOT an act of claim. To make an extreme analogy: if a Chinese climber happened to have summited Everest in 1952, before Hillary, but not written it up in the BMC journal I think it would still be counted. Locally this applied to the first ascent of The Cuts (Flange buttress). I don't really mind if you personally feel strongly opposed to this view though Tony. Hamish
Tony McKenny
Thanks, Hamish, will have a look next time I am up there and check out where you are describing. It does seem as though it is really a variant on the Xanthos line, maybe best included as "Pitch 2 b Monster Match variant", particulalry as it is so short. Plenty of precedents for that approach on other climbs (Cymbal, Moonraker etc), rather than call it a separate line. That piece of rock is now chocker (!) - and Garry Phillips also climbed a similar line there way back, before either of these two, although he hasn't (and won't, he tells me) made any claim on it!
BTW, we traversed off L to the top of the flake to give it two nice pitches - it has been followed right through though, another alternative way to climb it.
Not sure about your comments about retrospective claims - if you don't write it up, it is a bit difficult to claim a FA later when some one else in very good faith also climbs the line. It does get interesting when the grades are wildly different though! There are plenty of previous cases around Tassie, and as the popular cliffs are worked over, more will arise. Several times I have been up on a "new" line to discover a peg nestling in a crack or old hawser slings on flakes, or even as happened a few years back, old wooden wedges.
As an editor of the Guide though, I would suggest, if you climbed it, write it up or run the risk of your ascent being ignored if you later put it forward. Descriptions. as you say, are of historical interest, may inspires others, provide info on what to choose for your next adventure, (particulalry if you are not into new- routing) and show where others have been before (if you are into new-routing). Cheers. Tony
Hamish Jackson
Yeah it's pretty short, good value though! Xanthos variant pitch 2b, or as I said previously subterfuge variant second section makes a consistent 55m pitch. Pretty sure it hasn't been climbed previous to 2005/6 as i pulled a few very loose few flakes off Xanthos section and Monster Match section back then. All the same, I do love it when illusions of 'new' are dashed by relic materials found en route, it shows us up our silly old colonialist attitudes! Terra Nullius.
chris allen
Hey guys,
I might as well lay my claim to fame...Dave and I climbed a variant to Meloncholy Mania a couple of months ago after seeing how green the chimney from the Suicide Sadness ledge was. This could also provide access for Static Journey, etc.
Manic Melancholy (17) 50m
A less vegetated variant for Melancholy Mania. Takes the rib if rock to the L of the second pitch of Melancholy Mania. Scramble around from Suicide Sadness to avoid the first pitch of the Melancholy Mania and belay at the base of the chimney. Climb the shallow corner and cracks on the nose of rock 4m to the left, continuing past a loose, blocky section, moving right and up thin cracks to join Melancholy Mania at the top of pitch 2. Better than it looks, and surprisingly difficult to escape.
Chris Allen, Dave James Jan 2012
dave james
chris even said it was the pinnacle of his climbing life!... hanging out with me that is...
Tony McKenny
New climb from Garry Phillips, on Pole Axed Pillar, Cape Raoul. We await a name......
**Unnamed 21 25m Þ
Climbs the north face of the pole axed pillar.
1) 19 10m From the col traverse out leftwards and up to the big ledge.
2) 21 15m Continue up face and L.H. arete on imaculate rock to the master disaster belay.
F.A. Andy Reeves and Garry Phillips (alt) 13/3/12
Owen Gervasoni
Think this is a new route.... At least cant see anything covering it in the guide.
The following route is located on the lower section of the Great Tier, and finishes on the big access ramp.
*Kabling 16 25m
A pulse raising overhang. Start 15m left of where the access track first meets the rock, at a black streaked wall below a prominent overhang.
1) 16 25m. Boulder up the face on horizontal breaks (micro cams important), to black streaks. Run it out (take care) to gain the large ledge. Protection is excellent from here on. Take the corner and exhilarating overhang, then face and arête above to tree belay. There is a loose block in the overhang (it doesn’t seem to want to come out).
2) 10 10m. Bushy scramble up to the access ramp at the base of G Pillar.
F.A. O Gervasoni and B Ikin 31/3/12
Dave Humphries
Couple more climbs have been added at Neika:
1.
Birthday Party
10m
21
Þ
Balancey moves up the left hand side of the wall with the crux at the last move. Too dirty to be any good.
Jon Nermut, Mar 2012.
★ 2.
Happy Anniversary Sweetie
10m
22
Þ
Ten metres of surprisingly pumpy, technical climbing gets to the top. Stick clip the first of 4 bolts + anchors.
Dave Humphries April 2012
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
Another new route at Neika middle tier:
★ Lots of Box 12m 21 Þ ↓
The line of 5 bolts up the wall and roof just right of the Andre Zanada corner. There is a variant that is a few grades harder by eliminating the crack to the left.
Jon Nermut, Apr 2012.
There's now over 50 routes at Neika (including some projects), with the majority being sport routes in the 20-24 range. Still lots to do up there too, pity about the walk.
simon bischoff
Grendel and Biscuit face 14
Fun exposed climbing with good gear. Climbs the face oppisite Beowulf, and shares the same exit. Abseil From Beowulf exit down to a small ledge just above the water. Climb up to main ledge staying left of the arete. Climb the arete until it steepens then climb left onto the face with jugs. Finnish up beowulf.
SImon Bischoff and Tierney O'Sullivan 15/04/12
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
Mark Polinski has blogged about the new routes at he's been doing at the Mersey cliff he discovered, including Get What You Need, 31: http://markpolinski.blogspot.com.au/2012/04/mersey-cliffs.html
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
2 more new routes at Fingal: http://climbnortherntasmania.wordpress.com/2012/04/18/more-fingal-new-routes-and-updated-topos/
Will Bartlett
Hi all,
Garry and I just got back from the Tyndalls where we put up a new route. It's called Witchcraft 150m 27/28. It's a good one! Details below.
Description:
Located on the ‘Ice-cream Cone’ left of the Main Face, this route provides a great day out on immaculate rock. The pitches are varied, with the crux being a steep, absorbing outing that weaves its way around the right hand arête of the Ice-cream Cone. It is fully bolted.
Suggested gear: 20 quickdraws (with a couple of long ‘draws), a few screw-gates for the belays and helmets. Due to the unbroken nature of much of the route, a portaledge was very useful on the first ascent.
Access:
To access the Ice-cream Cone, follow a rough pad that begins behind a large boulder approximately 80m from the top of Deeper Water (i.e. in the opposite direction to the cave). Follow this for approximately 150m, whereupon there is a slight clearing just beyond the scrub on your left. In this little clearing are two hangers on the slabs. If you sidle up against the small cliff on your right you’ve gone too far.
We fixed the whole route with static rope (need 1X100m and 1x60M). To rap the route however pulling ropes, extend the top two hangers past the trees, then rap all the way to the top of pitch 5. Straightforward raps from here. Can be rapped on a single 70m.
Pitches:
FA: Garry Phillips & Will Bartlett, April 2012.
Will Bartlett
Will Bartlett
simon bischoff
G'day. We did the 'project' to the right of third bird today, all on gear. Apologies to the person who prepared and drilled all the holes ready for U bolts. The beginning is a little sketchy, traversing the face, until you reach the crack on the right where you get some bomber gear at about 6 metres. Then you traverse back on to the face for a 3-4 metres, crux, where you get a small wire and a cam. The rest of the pitch goes fine on gear, admittedly quite heady still. The first section could do will a bolt to make it more user friendly and stop a ground fall. it would also make it slightly more direct. But it is possible to do it with out. You still climb exactly the same line, you just have to traverse out to the crack to get the gear, using double ropes.
Also the second pitch to link it up with the rap anchor on third bird, is really great. Awesome lay back crack, through a bulge to the belay. Linking it up to the Second pitch of third bird makes a really memorable route.
cheers,
simon
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
cool. could you write it up as a route description and i will add to it to the guide?
simon bischoff
** Infidel 85m 21 Simon Bischoff, Tierney O'Sullivan 26/04/12
1. 28m 21
Its definitely all there, good provoking climbing. Start on the face a few metres right of Third bird. Make an unprotected rising traverse on delicate rock until you meet the top of the hand crack on your right. Place 0.5 cam in the crack and a 0.4 and 0.75 cam in the flake above it. Traverse left back onto the black streaked face. Small (but good) nut in crack after 4-5 metres followed by an ok #1 cam. Great moves with bomber, slightly spaced gear. Belay next to small tree and U-bolt.
1a. Avoid soloing up to the first protection. Climb obvious crack (banana republic?) directly to the right of the face, At about 7 metres, when the crack opens to body width, traverse left onto black streaked face and crack.
2. 20m 16
Climb broken cracks and ledges into an obvious rightward leaning lay back crack. Nice climbing through bulge to Third bird rap Anchor.
3. 37m 18
Finnish up second pitch of Third bird
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
From Garry:
Hey guys just climbed two new routes at fin gal they are both very very good.
cheers Garry
FINGAL
White powder is the line left of vapor trail
***White Powder 32 25m
Climbs first 3 bolts of CGD then heads right. Fantastic climbing all the way.
F.A. Garry Phillips 9/6/12
***Jet Stream 28 35m
Climb Vapor Trail to just above the first anchors (25) then heads left via a v5 boulder problem and up to anchors.
F.A. Garry Phillips 10/6/12
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
Here's a video by mark polinski of Garry on the FA of White Powder: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKdxXQ5NN0c
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
It was dry enough today at Neika for new routes. This one is further right from the existing routes on the Middle Tier:
Dragons Buttress
From Pluto scramble across the hillside for 50-100m until you get to decent height rock again. Dragons Buttress is the second buttress with two bolted lines.
★ 1. Here Be Dragons 10m 20 4Þ
The left hand line on the buttress up a technical groove. 4 bolts to DBB.
Jon Nermut, Jul 2012.
Andrew Martin
Also on the weekend, I finally got up one of my projects on the Boneyard at Fingal. It is the route 2nd from the left (furthest left is another project) and starts from the double rings that most people are jumar accessing the ledge by. (Traverse across from "Fire in the Sky")
Thanks for all the patient belayers.... it only took 14 months and 53 attempts!
** Redneck Love: 35m 25
Traverse immediately left and then follow the obvious line through two bulges (crux) and an easier crack section. Traverse slightly left at the second rooflet to an airy and technical finish. Mixed gear: cams 0.5 - 3, 3 wires and 2 hexes plus 16 draws. At least 4 slings will help as well.
F.A. Andrew Martin 07/07/2012
Tony McKenny
Hi tony.
A new route:
The Prowler. 20 m grade 23
Start as for the prow. Once established on the nose follow thin Seam left then straight up past two bolts and gear to the top. A challenge to place gear.
Finish on top of the prow.
FA. Alex and Bob Wilson 7/7/2012
Cheers
Alex
Gerry Narkowicz
Another superb new route at Fingal. The Biggest Thing Since Powdered Milk 30m (23) is a slab climb starting 40m right of Tomorrows Dream on the right hand side of the cliff. A bulge near the bottom provides the bouldery crux and then a long section of delightful moderate slab, then a thin cruxy conclusion near the top - all on excellent quality rock. Could be grade 24 for shorter people
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
Two new ones at Neika middle tier:
Eris 8m 18 4Þ
Up the steepish face 10m right and up around the corner from Pluto. Would make a good warm up but needs traffic. There is a harder variation by not using the holds around the left arete.
Jon Nermut, Sep 2012.
On the next decent buttress about 40m right of Dragons Buttress:
★ 2. Access Ramp 10m 20 4Þ
Start at the short corner, then up and right to the big pocket. From the second bolt move right and up to the slopey ledge, then back left to the clip the third bolt. Continue up the slab to a DBB.
Dave Humphries, Sep 2012.
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
This is the left arête on the same buttress as Access Ramp at Neika middle tier:
★★ 1. Gangnam Style 10m 23 5Þ
The excellent arete with a steep start then technical slab climbing.
Jon Nermut, Oct 2012.
Gerry Narkowicz
Topos for 3 New Routes at Duck Reach:
http://climbnortherntasmania.wordpress.com/2012/11/06/deathly-new-routes/
Gerry Narkowicz
New route at Duck Reach. The Green Mile (15m, 24). The arete 5m right of Death Row. 5 bolts of thin face climbing to a crux dyno to the sloping ledge. FA: Gerry Narkowicz. 29/10/12
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
Two new routes by roger at Arthur's Circus :
★★★ Clown Face 20m 23
. 9 BR to a DBB.
A classy face of orange rock in a great location. Nice climbing too. Starts at "ground" level (about 45m from the top) and finishes at the Centre Stage start-ledge. The crux is passing the bulge near BR #7
Roger Parkyn & Dean Rollins, Oct 2012.
★★ Circus Interruptus 20m 21
Climbs the middle part of the arete right of Circus Taz, starting at the Centre Stage belay ledge. Crank through the lower bulge on jugs then climb the beautiful arete and face above. The crux is near the top (it may be over-graded, according to Dean, although he did say it is "definitely harder than 18"). 6 BR to a DBB. From the belay it is possible to swing across to Circus Taz and exit up that (take some mid-sized cams). Alternatively lower back to the start and climb Centre Stage.
Roger Parkyn & Dean Rollins, Oct 2012.
Doug Bruce
Must be rubbish - everybody knows that all the good climbing in Tassie is north of Oatlands. Seriously though, nice work Roger and Dean for a couple more stellar additions to "The Pipes", which has the best mix of sport and trad routes in the state.
Tony McKenny
Alex and Phil have cleaned up Breaker Spur on the Pipes, adding two rap stations to improve access and removing loose rock etc. They both reckon it is about 15 and worth 2 stars, with much easier access now you don't have to fight your way through the new growth forest at the top.
A rap station has also been added by Alex to the top access to Sky Rocket so you don't now need to do the dangerous scramble down to the DBB.
An alternative finish has been added to Smoke and Mirrors. It is a good way of accessing the start of Black Magic etc
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
Finished this new route on Kacktus Buttress today when Dave redpointed the top pitch. The second pitch could be 22 and ★★★, its great climbing, but will wait for opinions. There is still a few flakes left on it, wear a helment. And put a knot in the end of your rope when lowering off the top pitch, its just under 30m
★★ Remembrance 45m 21 Þ
A great route up the left side of the Pugnacious buttress.
1. 15m 21. Start just right of Roast Chicken. Climb the flakey wall to the bulge at 8m, which is quite a bit harder if you don't use the edge of Roast Chicken. Head right and up to gingerly climb up over the huge flake to the belay. 7 bolts.
2. 30m 21. Up the wall from the belay to gain the arete at the fourth bolt. Excellent and continuous face and arete climbing to DBB at the top. 13 bolts.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Dec 2012.
It's no 2 in the topo below:
The top of this climb is under the ledge at the bottom left of Arthurs Circus. So an interesting possibility would be to do a link pitch diagonally right to the base of Roger's two new routes (Clown Face & Circus Interruptus), which would make a pretty cool 5 pitch outing. Dunno if the link pitch is feasible yet though.
Tony McKenny
Professor Snape (he really is!) weaves his magic spells again....
* Crucio 30m 17 ↓
Takes a spellbinding line up the face of the pillar 5m to the R of Smoke and Mirrors, to L of Breaker Spur. Climb the open book corner and then the exciting steep wall above to the finger crack. Finish up the easier ground above to the vegetated ledge and belay. Descent via the Black Magic rap station (traverse 2m L and up: 35m)
Tony McKenny, Ian Snape, Dec 2012.
Adam Donoghue
New one at Ben Lomand (only took four years to do!)
*** Breathing Space 90m 28
Jon Nermut AUTHOR
From Simon Mentz:
Hi Jon,
This is a write up for a route completed early in the year on Cape Raoul. I see the text mentions a closed project which I assume refers to this.
I originally tried the line ground-up but came to a grinding halt where the cracks run out. I then rapped the line and placed the bolt. Unfortunately I fell off when I went to lead it, although it was seconded clean by Joel. I then returned in February and led it clean with Steve Monks.
It’s debatable whether it is worth two stars (I suspect it is only worth one star, but I see Jihad gets two stars and felt it was on par with that). Would be interesting to get some other opinions though.
Cheers,
Simon
Infidel 30m 22 **
Spectacular alternative to Jihad that finishes at the top of the Wedding Cake. Double ropes are handy but not essential. Start from col above Reign of Terror. From the col, clip the bolts and step right to gain very exposed arête. Follow the cracks up the arête until they run out. Continue past bolt (crux) to finish up straightforward crack. Belay from bolts above Jihad. FA (one rest) Simon Mentz, Joel Murray, Lisa Boyle Dec 2011 FFA Simon Mentz, Steve Monks Feb 2012.
Tony McKenny
New climb to R of Breaker Spur .
* Cracked Pepper 46m 18
Access to the route involved significant floral landscaping! A strong line up the L facing black corner 10m R of Breaker Spur.
1. 26m 18. Scramble up to the base of the corner to start. Climb the corner using the L face and R arête until below the roof. Using face holds on the L wall climb to the hakea and move up and L to triple bolt belay.
2. 20m 17. Step back R into the corner and climb the terrific crack line to belay at a spike on a ledge on the L. Abseil from spike down the line (45m).
I. Snape, T. McKenny (alt.), A. Adams, Dec 2012.
dave james
ah cool! i was wondering when someone would do that.
Tony McKenny
Earth Sea crag at Coles Bay. Lovely situation and exellent rock. Best approached from the sea, for the full atmospheric hit.
Main Wall:
★★Three Men in a Boat 20m 17
Start at high tide mark in the middle of the face, to the L of a low, overhanging corner. Bridge the corner, turning the roof on the R and follow the LH crack line to the top. Thread belay.
Tony McKenny, Richard Eccleston, Tim Chappell, Dec, 2012