Mt Wellington Other Crags
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Introduction | This section of the guide describes several small and obscure Mt Wellington crags that don't really fit anywhere else. |
Access | Lies a kilometre to the south of the Organ Pipes. It is on the same level as the Pipes and has a conspicuous platform just above its base. To reach it, go to the junction of the Organ Pipes and Zig Zag tracks, then head uphill.
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F'er 111 30m 10 From the track, climb halfway up the first gully to the R of the Buttress proper, until a conspicuous crag appears on the L. At the cliff base are two clumps of cutting grass, 6m apart. F'er 111 is the easy line above the L hand clump, just L of a small gully. (1) 18m Up the crack to the obvious belay below two short parallel jam cracks. (2) 12m Up the L hand crack (crux) then step into the R hand crack and continue to the top. (1) M. Steane, R. Roffe, Oct. 1973. (2) M. Steane, A. McGifford, Oct. 1975.
Terminal Germ 33m 11 The prominent large crack line 5m L of F'er 111. Straight up the crack to a large ledge, then up a short chimney. M. Steane, A. McGifford, Oct. 1975.
Midget Crack 27m 14 The crack straight up the wall just R of Frustration Platform. (1) 12m Climb the crack to a ledge. (2) 16m Jam up to the ledge, then up a narrow chimney to the top. G. Batten, A. Keller, Apr. 1968.
Frustration Platform 30m 11 30m climb to the platform, make a short traverse to the R, then move up the narrow chimney which splits the upper wall. U. Aurelli, D. Cox, 1961.
Dominator 12m 20 Visible from the Springs, it follows a thin line up the middle of the slab above Frustration Buttress. Pleasant face climbing, well worth the walk. K. Robinson, A. Williams, P. Robinson, C. Godfrey, Dec. 1997.
Access | These climbs are around the summit of South Wellington. Climb up the Ice House Track from the Springs to the top ice house (about a 400m climb). |
Iceman 15m 8 From the top Ice House, cross the boulder field to the south to an attractive little isolated peak just below South Wellington. An obvious line runs up through the blocks in the middle of it. Phil Robinson, Mar. 2002.
Choc Ice 40m 17 Traverse the boulder field south beyond Iceman about 100 metres until an impressive lone buttress of orange rock comes into view to the southwest. To the top R of it is a spectacular cairn-like tower of blocks. The climb, which is loose and needs cleaning, takes the corner and crack line up the middle of the buttress. Rather strenuous higher up. Start by climbing up some large blocks to reach the crack. Phil Robinson, Mar. 2002.
Access | Situated 600m up the road from the Chalet. The climbing potential at this crag was severely impaired when the main section was demolished in order to re site the road after a landslide in 1961. NB Any rocks (or people) dislodged could land on the road.
Climbing Info: What remains today offers little though a small number of easy routes are possible. Only one route has been described, and that is really only included as an historical record. |
Y=1/(1+X) 24m 16 On the buttress to the L of the main Roadside Buttress. Start L of an easy chimney on the prow of the buttress. Up on small holds to the start of a curving crack. Up this, then climb to below a straight crack. Mantelshelf about one metre to the R of the crack, then follow it to the top. L. Closs, I. Lewis, S.Karpiniec, Nov. 1973. Y=1/(1+X), according to Lew, described the curve of the crack, that should help you find it... or maybe not.
Gorby's Corner is the small sandstone outcrop which forms the base of the fenced-in lookout at The Springs. There are a couple of top rope routes here, which need a good clean. Only one route is recorded here, you'd have to wonder why anyone would bother...
Termination 19 The arete of Gorby's Corner. Only one bit of gear in the break at half height, essentially a solo. Gerry Narkowicz 1981.
Rock | Sandstone outcrop, 8-10 metres high, with a few smaller ones either side. Rock brittle under the overhangs but sound otherwise. |
Access | On Hunters Track above Junction Cabin. Quickest foot approach is to park at the Chalet (3.55km from the Springs, GPS MTW600) and follow the track down below the road past the two boulder fields (20 minutes). Look out for the mighty crag on the R. Nice walk in, not so nice walk out (35 minutes uphill). The alternative route will be by mountain bike via the new track being built from Shoobridge Bend to Junction Cabin (GPS MTW610). Leave your bike at the cabin and walk 5 minutes up the track to the crag (GPS MTW620). |
Climbing Info | A sunny, sheltered spot among the trees with a number of surprisingly good top roped climbs - no bolts, please, on this craglet. Technical rather than strenuous. Described from L to R. |
GPS |
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Thestral 10m 18 Around the corner L of the main overhang. The steep wall through the blocks, moving R with difficulty on to the slabs. Delicate climbing to the top. P. Robinson, Mar. 2004.
Muggar 10m 18 The overhanging crack at the back of the cave, L of the main wall and beneath the large unstable roof. Watch out for brittle rock. Traverse R onto the arête as soon as possible and follow it up, keeping to the edge of the cave. P. Robinson, Aug. 2003.
Hedwig 10m 16 A traverse line on the L of the main face, R of the overhangs. Up the short, shallow corner. Traverse L as soon as feasible until one can climb straight up to the top. P. Robinson, Aug. 2003.
Tomi 10m 15 Another pleasant route, climbing the face up the main part of the cliff. Not as juggy as it looks. Beware of seepage in wet weather. P. Robinson, Aug. 2003.
Gharial 10m 17 Delicate face climbing. At the extreme R of the main wall, one metre L of the corner. Straight up. P. Robinson, Aug. 2003.
Slitherin 7m 18 Climb up the nose, immediately R of the corner. Has a thin lower section and a bulging finish. P. Robinson, Aug. 2003.
Mungo 7m 13 The middle of the broken face, R of the nose. Mantelshelf finish. P. Robinson, Aug. 2003.
Firenze 7m 17 The crack, two metres R of Mungo. A good start followed by a thin finish up the wall to a ledge. P. Robinson, Aug. 2003.
Intro | Cathedral Rock is the abrupt peak you can see to the south of Mt Wellington as you drive out of Kingston towards Huonville. It has always had a reputation as being chossy but a couple of new bolted routes are providing good value. |
Access | Drive to the end of Bett's Rd until the car-park and signs for the walking track (Bett's Rd starts half-way between Neika and Longley). From the car-park keep walking up the road following walking track signs (go right at all junctions). The route turns into a single-track and later regains an old 4WD track. It is about 1 hour 40 min (and 600 m height-gain) to the summit. To find the With Angels abseil, from where the walking track finishes walk along the ridge towards Kingston for about 30m. The two U-bolts are not visible from this ridge; look for a rounded boulder just below the ridge. (GPS MTW700). |
Gear | These climbs are equipped such that you can get away with one 50m rope and draws. All belays are double U-bolts. |
GPS |
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Alter Ego 19m 22 Þ ↓ A LH alternative to the first pitch of With The Angels. (1) 19m 22. 10 U-bolts. Face climbing left of the corner. Briefly climb on the left of the arête after the seventh U-bolts. R. Parkyn, A. Hill, April 2007
With The Angels 43m 19 Þ ↓ (1) 19m 19. 10 U-bolts. Start by going down from the belay before crossing right onto the face. (2) 18m 19. 6 U-bolts. (3) 5m 12. 1 U-bolt. R. Parkyn, A. Hill, April 2007
A couple of routes were done at Wellington Falls in the seventies by Lyle Closs et al. There is potential for some new stuff here. Best access is by mountain bike along the pipeline track, starting at Nieka. There are also a couple of sandstone cliffs above and below the pipeline track on the way out there that may have some potential.
Intro | Quite a few routes were done on the south and north sides of Trestle Mt, known as the Shady Side and Sunshine Possibilities respectively. Details of some of these routes have been gleaned from the old Climbers Club of Tasmania circulars but have not been checked - yet.
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Access | There are three ways to access Trestle Mt - walk from Myrtle Forest near Collinsvale, mountain bike from either end of the East-West trail, or get the key to the gate and four-wheel drive along the fire trail. This is possible during the drier months only, and permits are managed by the Parks and Wildlife Service. |
Climbing Info | The Sunshine Possibilities cliff had a brief period of popularity in the early '70s but has been neglected since, partly due to the problems of access but also because of the position high on the top of the range where it gets all the prevailing weather. Climbs are described roughly L to R. A cliff for the future? Maybe... |
Vandal 30m 16 About 17m L of Backfire there is a thin buttress with a chimney on it's L side, and a small tree about half way up the face. (1) 30m Climb up the thin crack in the wall to a niche, then with difficulty move out of this and up to the tree. Step up, then jam the crack straight to the top. A very good finish! L. Closs and B. Bull, Oct 1972.
Backfire 34m 15 On the L of the main buttress there is a hand jam crack underneath a bottomless chimney. (1) 23m Jam up the crack to a tree then layback up to a belay on a ledge to the L of the chimney. (2) 13m Climb the chimney then, using a low handhold, pull up into the crack and thrutch to the top. P. Jackson and J. Moore, B. Bull, May 1971.
Overdrive 34m 18 Start as for Backfire. (1) 20m Up the jam crack for 5m then layback out R to the large crack in the middle of the buttress. Jam up this and belay on foot holds below the overhang. (2) 17m Continue up to the overhang, pull over then make a hard layback move to gain entrance to beautiful crack that leads to the top. B Bull and P. Jackson, J. Moore, May 1971.
Differential 40m 17 Start in the chimney 10m L of Fern. (1) Bridge the chimney and move R. Climb the crack till it thins, then up till a step R can be made and continue up to a ledge. (2) Move up Fern for a metre or so, step out L and continue to the top. I. Lewis and P. Reynolds, Nov 1972, FFA N. Ward, P.A.Steane, May 1983.
Fern 40m 18 About 13m R and downhill a bit from Backfire is a corner topped at about 10m by an overhang with a wide crack leading onto the wall above. (1) 40m Up to the overhang is a beautiful handcrack. Climb out from the overhang, then move quickly (strenuous) to better holds and eventually a ledge. Climb the crack to the top - the last few moves are not easy! L Closs and J Moore, Sept 1972.
Faggot 32m 13 A good climb well protected and on excellent rock. To the R of Fern, the cliffs are setback and near the LH end of these cliffs there is a good line with an obvious jam crack half way up. (1) 32m Move up the crack, then into the chute, and up to the overhang. Jam out over it, move up and step R onto the arête. Climb this using the edge of the crack past a tree root and up this thin crack to a good edge on the top. B. Bull, L. Closs, M. Tillema, D. Batten, Oct 1972.
Four-Wheel Drive 34m 16 Start in the corner on the RH side of the main buttress there is a large spike at the foot of a "V" corner, with an old tree high up. (1) 30m Bridge up the corner past the spike, then jam the steep crack to the tree root, then up with a few delicate moves to a large ledge. (2) 20m Jam the awkward crack to the top. J. Moore and B. Bull, May 1971.
