When we edited the Mountain guide, we had the policy that a climb had have been repeated and confirmed to get 3 stars. Looking at the list of 3 star climbs in the Climb Search, I'm not sure this is true for these harder climbs:

Mind's Eye 70m 24 The Columns
Mildly Amused 35m 25 Bulging Buttress
Wootang 45m 25 Teardrop Gully
Completion Backward Principle 27m 26 Rockaway and Amphitheatre
Once in a Lifetime 55m 26 The Columns
The Colour of Magic 24m 26 Teardrop Gully
The Fifth Elephant 25m 27 Rockaway and Amphitheatre
Blubber boy 15m 29 Ferntree
Cheshire Cat 25m 29 Lost World Area
Kick Start 12m 29 Ferntree
Future Shock 8m 31 Ferntree

Anyone besides the first ascencionist want to vouch for their quality? Tony's concise definition of 3 stars in the intro of the guide is "An absolute ripper, a 'must do' climb."

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3 Comments

  1. Jake

    This would have to be my vote regarding the routes that I have done.
    (as if I would do a biased FA star rating...)

    3 STAR
    Completion Backward Principle 27m 26 Rockaway and Amphitheatre
    The Colour of Magic 24m 26 Teardrop Gully
    Kick Start 12m 29 Ferntree

    2 STAR
    Mildly Amused 35m 25 Bulging Buttress
    The Fifth Elephant 25m 27 Rockaway and Amphitheatre (not done, but tried)
    Wootang 45m 25 Teardrop Gully
    Cheshire Cat 25m 29 Lost World Area (not done but tried)

    1 Star
    Blubber boy 15m 29 Ferntree

  2. garry phillips

    id give mildly amused 3 stars hand down as well as cheshire cat, kickstart, minds eye and once in a life time. these routes are exceptional in my mind.
    2 stars for, future shock. and as for wootang i can't say ive never tried it. BUt i do hear that it is brilliant.
    one star for Blubber boy and Completion backwards Principle because Completion is escapable and a retro bolted aid line.
    cheers garry

    1. Al Williams

      I realise my opinion is biased but I think Completion Backwards Principle is definitly worth three stars. Alot of great routes on the pipes are escapable, e.g. Pleasant Screams, as for the retro bolts I guess that's a matter of opinion and doesn't actually effect the quality of the climbing! in any case I think we should keep to commenting on routes we have actually repeated.