Blog from July, 2009

Seeing as it hasn't been reported elsewhere yet...

I heard a rumour that Sam Edwards has done his long time project at Lower Taipan Wall, Grampians, called it Zeus, and has undergraded it at V13.

A very old picture: http://www.vi-bouldering.com/Gallery/showcase/sam_projecting.jpg

Just uploaded some videos from the weekend.
Adam onsiting his new problem. Superb effort see if you can spot the crumbling holds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZv0_YONLcY
Jon sending the Vitriol sit
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MJ1NyE4wfo

James working his new problem
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YewP8zcmrY

Kim working James's new problem
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3nZZPU5gso

Dave on Slope test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZ1RrPZUN9o

Pretty impressive - what happens when you fall off 12m up soloing a granite slab:

http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2009/07/big-ride.html

When we edited the Mountain guide, we had the policy that a climb had have been repeated and confirmed to get 3 stars. Looking at the list of 3 star climbs in the Climb Search, I'm not sure this is true for these harder climbs:

Mind's Eye 70m 24 The Columns
Mildly Amused 35m 25 Bulging Buttress
Wootang 45m 25 Teardrop Gully
Completion Backward Principle 27m 26 Rockaway and Amphitheatre
Once in a Lifetime 55m 26 The Columns
The Colour of Magic 24m 26 Teardrop Gully
The Fifth Elephant 25m 27 Rockaway and Amphitheatre
Blubber boy 15m 29 Ferntree
Cheshire Cat 25m 29 Lost World Area
Kick Start 12m 29 Ferntree
Future Shock 8m 31 Ferntree

Anyone besides the first ascencionist want to vouch for their quality? Tony's concise definition of 3 stars in the intro of the guide is "An absolute ripper, a 'must do' climb."

Yes I know its mainly a sport area, but I found two nuts on a mixed route at Hillwood on Sat 4th July. If you think they are yours drop me a line on rjhalsey AT gmail DOT com or 0488088670

cheers

Richard