Page History

<guide version="3"> 
  <header access="Access to Toy Town and Johnsons knob is via the Northern Buttress track. Where the track meets the base of the Lower Northern Buttress (see Northern Buttress sketch map), go up R and follow a rough track around the northern side of Toy Town buttress and scramble uphill to the spire of Johnstone's Knob.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Access to DNA and Upper Reaches Buttress is from the top car park following the red dot track. " acknowledgement="" history="" intro="There are a number of shortersmaller buttresses to the north of the main cliffs that provide some OK climbing." name="Far North Area" rock="Short dolerite, with Johnson knob being a novelty pillar, and Upper Reaches buttress being larger (40m) and hosting some good routes." name="Far North Area" rock="Dolerite cracks and faces up to 20m30m" sun="Morning sun" walk="10 min from Northern Buttress" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>  
  <text class="heading2" id="2">Toy Town</text>  
  <text class="text" id="3">Toy Town is a group of four small buttresses immediately R of Northern Buttress Lower Cliff. The routes are entertaining, with easy access, and are described R to L. Descend via the central gully or lower off Nancy Boys.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="12m" name="We Can Jam Too" number="1." stars="" id="10" fa="J. Fischer, J. Robinson, May 2005.">Steep and potentially strenuous if you get it wrong. Start up the crack then follow the arête before moving L into the crack again when your feet are level with the horizontal feature. Jam the crack to the top, making full use of the arête. Abseil off.</climb>  
  <text class="text" id="9">The next climb is on a small subsidiary wall immediately above Child's Play. Scramble up the gully between Nancy Boys and Child's Play for 4m, then turn L and up to the base of the crack, by a small sassafras tree.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="War Toy " stars="*" id="8" fa="D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr 1989." number="2.">A bomb waiting to drop. The obvious line up the centre of the middle buttress, just L of Child's Play. Climb up thin cracks just L of the arête and move carefully past the semi-detached spike to a hands off rest on top. Step off L and climb the wall above.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Child's Play " number="3." stars="*" id="7" fa="D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr 1989.">Surprisingly insecure moves at the top. The RH arête of the largest (middle) buttress. Start on the LH side of the central gully and climb up the arête and the shallow corner above.</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="10m" name="Nancy Boys " number="4." stars="*" id="6" fa="R. Parkyn, Apr 1992.">An amusing encounter found on the arête L of Boys Toy. Start on the RH side of the central gully that leads to We Can Jam Too, and climb the arête mostly on the LH side via three bolts to a rap station. The ridiculously hard crux is the first few moves immediately off the ground.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="8m" name="Boy's Toy " stars="*" id="5" fa="D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr 1989." number="5.">Could be dangerous. The next buttress L (second from the R). Move R across the face and climb the R arête past a large hollow flake.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="7m" name="Virgin Boys " stars="" id="4" fa="Phil Steane (solo), Aug 1982." number="6.">A pleasant sojourn on the far RH buttress. Climb a short crack on the L edge, step R and up to the top.</climb>  
  <text class="heading2" id="11">Johnstone's Knob</text>  
  <text class="text" id="12">A number of short routes exist on outcrops in the Johnstone's Knob area. All routes can be located easily from near the Knob. Descend via the rap stations above the bolted routes, walk off or tape abseil the rest.</text>  
  <text class="text" id="18">The next two routes are found on Pipedream Buttress, a small buttress about 40m uphill and southwest (L) of Johnstone's Knob.</text>  
  <image id="30" src="pipedream nl.jpg" width="500" legend="true" legendx="330" legendy="249" legendTitle="Pipedream Buttress" height="323"> 
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    <legend> 
      <climb>20</climb>  
      <climb>19</climb>  
      <climb>34</climb>  
      <climb>26</climb> 
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  </image>  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Shelter From The Storm " number="7." stars="" id="20" fa="K. Kiernan, Nov 1975.">The other route on Pipedream Buttress. Climb the crack line around the arête L of Pipedream. Tricky.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Pipedream " number="8." stars="" id="19" fa="D. Bowman, R. Wells, Dec 1977.">Climb a steep hand crack on the RH face past some difficulties in the mid section. Abseil off.</climb>  
  <text class="text" id="16">The next route is on a small face about 30m south (L) of the Knob and at the same level.</text>  
  <climb extra="4Þ ↓" grade="21" length="12m" name=" Sergeant Slaughter " number="9." stars="*" id="17" fa="G. Phillips, Oct 1995.">Pleasant climbing. 4 bolts plus rap station.</climb>  
  <image noPrint="false" src="great red pointer.jpg" width="500" id="13" height="667"/>  
  <climb extra="3Þ ↓" grade="19" length="12m" name=" Great Red Pointer " number="10." stars="*" id="15" fa="R. Parkyn, 1993.">Bizarre climbing up the side of the Johnstone's Knob that faces Northern Buttress. Involves using the arêtes on either side, sometimes simultaneously. Has three glued carrots.</climb>  
  <climb extra="↓" grade="12" length="12m" name="Johnstone's Knob " stars="*" id="14" fa="Unknown, Sep 1961." number="11.">The prominent 12m spire that casts a spell on climbers and entices them over. There are several ways to the top. Rap station.</climb>  
  <text id="32" class="heading2">Upper Reaches Buttress</text>  
  <text id="33" class="text">Location>Style: It is remarkable that this sizable buttress was overlooked for so long. TheAll topclimbs ofare thisgood buttressquality iswell situatedprotected between Upper Northern and DNA buttress. While the buttress is readily visible looking north and downhill from the top of Numbwaiter/upper northern buttress, it is best accessed using the red dot track.trad-routes (mostly 1 pitch). Bringing 2 ropes allows one line to be fixed and routes to be repeated in succession. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;AccessLocation: abseilThe intop toof thethis climbsbuttress fromis thesituated topbetween ledgeUpper isNorthern recommended,and whichDNA isbuttress. onlyWhile 15the minbuttress walkis fromreadily topvisible car park via the Ampitheatrelooking north and Red dot track; or about 5 min walk downhill from the top of CossackNumbwaiter column.on TheoreticallyUpper oneNorthern couldbuttress, bashit upis tobest theaccessed cliffseperately baseto fromupper JohnsonsNorthern knobbutrress, butusing thisthe isred definitely not recommended (thick bush). dot track.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;FromAccess: topabseil carin parkto followthe theclimbs Ampitheatrefrom trackthe 1large minledge passedatop the topfirst pitch ofis Cossackcolumnrecommended, then turn northward onto the 'red dot' bush walkers track (1 min beforethis can accessed by foot and is only 15 min walk from top car park via the Ampitheatre anchors)and andRed continuedot downtrack; theor redabout dot5 trackmin forwalk 5from minutesthe -top passingof twoCossack easycolumn. downTheoretically climbingone sectionscould asbash theup trackto dropsthe belowcliff DNAbase buttress. Fom the base of this second down climb (a 2m drop) leavefrom Johnson's knob but this is definitely not recommended (thick bush). Note: the red dot track, turningis southa forbit 5tricky mto thenfollow up under a large Hakea, and onto the top ledge (about 15metres total from red dot track)from Johnston's knob (numerous wrong turns are possible), but this is also a reasonable way to access the abseil ledge of UR buttress.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</text>
  <climb id="35" stars="" extra="" number="12." name="I wanna know for sure" length="20m" grade="20" fa="H jackson and J Spencer March 2025">The left most line of buttress. Takes the left corner crack through the 2m roof (which delivers an entertaining cruxFrom top car park follow the Ampitheatre track 1 min passed the top of Cossackcolumn, then turn northward onto the 'red dot' bush walkers track (1 min before the Ampitheatre anchors) and continue down the red dot track for 5 minutes - passing two easy down climbing sections as the track drops below DNA buttress. Fom the base of this second down climb (a 2m drop) leave the red dot track, turning south for 5 m then up under a large Hakea, and onto the top ledge (about 15metres total from red dot track).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</text>  
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  <image id="38" src="Upperreaches.JPG" height="667" width="500" legend="true" legendTitle="Upper reaches"> 
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      <climb>34</climb>  
      <climb>37</climb> 
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  <climb id="35" stars="" extra="" number="12." name="I wanna know for sure" length="20m" grade="20" fa="H jackson and J Spencer March 2025">Climbs the left corner crack 3m left of the sickle crack of Wild thing, and goes through the intimidating roof crack. This delivers an entertaining and worthwhile crux, if you are into this sort of thing!&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Start: abseil in to belay on the large sloping ledge 5m above the base of the buttress, and 4m left of main arete (gear around 0.5 size on ledge). &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Start: abseil in to belay on sloping ledge 4m left of arete, 5m above the ground. The initial corner is a bit vegetatedAvoid the lightly vegetated crack in the back of the corner by chimney climbing the outer corner with small but good protection on the left wall (or bring an extra 2 and 3 for the corner crack at the back). butContinue isthrough climbedroof cleanly as an easy chimney with protection on the left wallcrack (crux), and hand crack above (#2 and #3). &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Gear: single rack: a few diverse sized wires plus a single rack of cams from 0.2 to #33. Doubles of 2 and 3. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>  
  <climb id="36" stars="***" extra="" number="13." name="Wild thing" length="30m" grade="22" fa="J Spencer and H jackson March 2025">Sustained>Steep, sustained and unique climbing for the pipes. A masterclass of trad technqiues!&lt;br/&gt;Abseil in to the base of buttress.&lt;br/&gt;Start just left of the main arete of the buttress. &lt;br/&gt;Climb widening hand crack to sloping ledge at 5m. Reach right onto the arete and climb to the top of the small pillar onat the arete8m. Step back left of arete to climb strenuous sickle crack to a semi-rest under the roof. Up into overhanginghanging v-groove (crux), then narrow hands crack above to finish on the abseil ledge. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>  
  <climb id="34" stars="**" extra="" number="14." name="The Upper Reaches" length="40m" grade="20" fa="H Jackson and J Spencer (Alt) Dec 14 2024">Ascends the thin cracks up the steep orange arete on the front of the buttress - the line that inspired the first visit. Varied and exciting climbing. &lt;br/&gt;Abseil in to the base of buttress.&lt;br/&gt;1. 35m. 20. &lt;br/&gt;Two starts are possible (covering the first 10m ofup thisto pitch are possiblethe spike):&lt;br/&gt;i) start 3m R of blunt arete and climb th easy chimney for 5m, (no gear, grade 7) and pull onto the buttress proper, head up &amp; left for 5m to stand on the spike. Or &lt;br/&gt;ii) Climb CTWild Thing for 10m to top of spike (this is a better start if you are not climbing WT on the same day). ). &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Continue up the excitingbouldery, steep finger cracks on the arete for 8m (crux), then step R into hand/fist crack (grade 16), which is followed to the abseilmain ledge. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Pitch 2 (optional). 8m 18. &lt;br/&gt;Climb lovely open corner flake crack inabove openthe cornerabseil sittingledge onto the aretetop. Belay off Hakea + cams.&lt;br/&gt;Descent from pitch 2: scramble right and walk back down via red dot track (3 mins).</climb>  
  <climb id="37" stars="*" extra="" number="15." name="Derwent Valley Vista" length="15m" grade="17" fa="H Jackson and J Spencer March 2025. ">Climbs the lovely crack 5m right of the main arete and 3m right of Upper Reaches hand-fist crack. Well protected and continuously interesting at the grade &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Start: abseil into a small ledge above a pepper bush, and 8m above the base of buttress. Belay using a few finger sized cams or wires in the shallow corner.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Climb up to small rooflet at 2m, then left trending finger crack (crux), and then back right up flake crack for 4m to rest. &lt;br/&gt;Continue up nicelovely narrow hand crack for 12m to top (grade 16). &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Gear: light rack of wires and cams from 0.2 to 2.</climb>  
  <text class="heading2" id="22">DNA Buttress</text>  
  <text class="text" id="23">DNA Buttress is a small buttress most easily reached from the summit car park by walking down the red dot track for 3 mins from the intersection with the Ampitheatre track. Contains several short lines. The most prominent is Gear Freak, the corner crack. Descend to the L.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="8m" name="Pancakes" stars="" id="29" fa="Unknown." number="16.">The flake on the wall L of Simple Minds.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="8 " length="8m" name="Simple Minds " stars="" id="28" fa="Phil Steane, Oct 1982." number="17.">The shallow corner chimney 4m to the L of Rheumatism.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Rheumatism " number="18." stars="" id="27" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb 1982.">Anti-inflammatory medication might help! The thin line up the arête to the L of Gear Freak.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Gear Freak " stars="*" id="26" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb 1982." number="19.">Ten metres of pure joy that ends prematurely. The hand crack in the prominent corner immediately L of D.N.A. Gets wider as you go.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="D.N.A. " number="20." stars="" id="25" fa="D. Bowman, R. Wells, Dec 1977.">Just R of Gear Freak is a line with a suspended blade 3m off the ground. Climb to the blade and up the wide crack to the top.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="15m" name="Adolescent Drifters" number="21." stars="" id="24" fa="Phil Steane, D. Fife, 1982.">The off-width crack 6m R of D.N.A.</climb> 
</guide>