Climbing on The Pipes is serious. Occasional loose rock, complex route finding and a sense of exposure heightened by the kilometre drop down to sea level all contribute to a wilderness adventure. As Phil Robinson said in the 1981 edition:
"In terms of mileage of routes, skinned knuckles, expenditure of effort and annual traffic, the Organ Pipes is the major focus of climbing activity in Tasmania."
This is still true today. Yet all this fun is just 20 minutes from the centre of the city.
A number of separate buttresses up to 120m high of vertical dolerite, typically in columns. The rock is very compact, though there is surface exfoliation in places due to bushfires. Large blocks that look precariously stacked are mostly just that. Be especially wary in spring, as frost action is instrumental in loosening previously solid blocks. Vegetation has crept back onto the less frequented routes and may need gentle gardening as you go.
Facing east and sheltered from the prevailing westerlies, the crag catches most of the morning sun but the altitude means it can get cold very quickly when the sun disappears.
An access track to the bottom of the Pipes starts at the end of the small parking bay on the LH side of the road 2.7 km past the Springs.
Parking can be a bit of a pain. The parking bay can accommodate five cars at a squeeze IF cars are parked perpendicular to the road but at weekends it fills up rapidly and you are left with the alternatives of creative parking on the verge - not recommended - or parking at the Springs or the Chalet (ample parking but a longer walk), or parking at the summit and walking down. There have also been some cases of theft from cars so be warned: don't leave anything valuable in your car that might attract thieves.
From the LH end of the parking bay, a definite track leads straight up the hill through a boulder field to meet the Organ Pipes Track (GPS MTW000).
Parking can be a bit of a pain. The parking bay can accommodate five cars at a squeeze IF cars are parked perpendicular to the road but at weekends it fills up rapidly and you are left with the alternatives of creative parking on the verge - not recommended - or parking at the Springs or the Chalet (ample parking but a longer walk), or parking at the summit and walking down. There have also been some cases of theft from cars so be warned: don't leave anything valuable in your car that might attract thieves.
From the LH end of the parking bay, a definite track leads straight up the hill through a boulder field to meet the Organ Pipes Track (GPS MTW000).
Directly opposite this junction is a track that leads on uphill to Northern Buttress. At the base of Northern Buttress (GPS MTW010) the track to The Shipwreck forks L, while continuing R provides access to all the Far North and lower Northern Buttress crags. Amphitheatre Ledge, Rockaway Gully and The Columns can be accessed from The Shipwreck.
The other crags L of Flange Buttress are best accessed directly from the Organ Pipes Track - see the individual crag sections for details.
From the wooden platform below the summit lookout (GPS MTW100) hop the rail, pick up a loosely defined (and sometimes cairned) track and head directly down till you reach the top of the cliff line (GPS MTW110).
Immediately to your L (north) is Cossack Column with a rap station a couple of metres down on its left side (GPS MTW120), but further round to the left again, following the curve of Northern Buttress, is the Amphitheatre rap station above Ethnic Cornflake (50m, marked by a blue dot, GPS MTW130). This is probably the easiest way to gain access to the bottom of the Exit/Entry gully, then walk down and round to the buttress of your choice.
Alternatively, at the top to the R (south) is the bulky Double Column Central then the twin 'ears' of Split Column, with the rap station for the Ultrasound ledge just to its R (GPS MTW140). The Daedalus rap station is beside the Battlements Column further R again (50m GPS MTW150). The rap station is in the gully to the R of the top of the column, past the distinctive jammed block/slab of Icarus (the bolts on top are for a project - ignore), off a yellow ledge about 10m down. Further details are included in the text for each Column or area. Landmarks south are more difficult to pick, follow your nose or ask a local if you can find one. Other rap stations are noted in the text.
Immediately to your L (north) is Cossack Column with a rap station a couple of metres down on its left side (GPS MTW120), but further round to the left again, following the curve of Northern Buttress, is the Amphitheatre rap station above Ethnic Cornflake (50m, marked by a blue dot, GPS MTW130). This is probably the easiest way to gain access to the bottom of the Exit/Entry gully, then walk down and round to the buttress of your choice.
Alternatively, at the top to the R (south) is the bulky Double Column Central then the twin 'ears' of Split Column, with the rap station for the Ultrasound ledge just to its R (GPS MTW140). The Daedalus rap station is beside the Battlements Column further R again (50m GPS MTW150). The rap station is in the gully to the R of the top of the column, past the distinctive jammed block/slab of Icarus (the bolts on top are for a project - ignore), off a yellow ledge about 10m down. Further details are included in the text for each Column or area. Landmarks south are more difficult to pick, follow your nose or ask a local if you can find one. Other rap stations are noted in the text.
Over 335 routes have been recorded so far on the Organ Pipes proper. The majority are trad climbing but there is an increasing number of bolted walls and arêtes. Routes look serious and intimidating, but the stepped nature of the cliff line generally allows rest stances between difficulties.
The climbing is typically a mixture of face holds, jugs, and jams with few routes involving pure crack techniques. Dolerite friction allows feet to be placed almost anywhere. Having said that, there are few quality easier climbs, most are steep and physical. Slabs or gentle walls are a rarity, Blue Meridian (17) being one of the few exceptions. Taping up is neither wimpy nor a demonstration of poor technique.
A standard rack of cams (with a couple of big ones for off widths - yum), hexes (yes we still use them here), wires, stoppers and RPs is usually sufficient. Twin or half ropes (50m minimum) are the standard on the multi-pitch trad climbs, particularly as the abseils are usually that long. Bolt rap stations are now common and their location is indicated in the climbing descriptions. Hangers are not generally required but there are still some carrots around - treat these with caution as they may have been there for some years.
Descriptions generally flow from R to L - North to South: areas such as gullies that do not follow this flow are noted in the descriptions.
GPS |
|
