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<guide><text class="heading1">Far North area
</text><text class="text"
        new="false"
        number="null.">There are a number of shorter buttress to the North of the main cliffs. Access is via the track from the LH end of the parking bay which crosses the Organ Pipes Track and continues on up the hill. Where the track meets the base of the Lower Northern Buttress, go up R and follow a rough track to the top of the greasy gully that splits the small Toy Town buttresses on the R. Scramble up and exit through the hole to the R and follow the track to the short spire (of Johnstone's Knob). </text><texttext>
<text
        class="heading2">Johnstone's Knob
<>Toy Town</text><text class="text"
        new="false"
        number="null.">A number>Toy Town is a group of shortfour routessmall existbuttresses onimmediately outcropsR inof theNorthern Johnstone'sButtress KnobLower areaCliff. AllThe routes canare beentertaining locatedwith easilyeasy from here.
Descend via the rap stations above the bolted routes, walk off or tape abseil the rest.
</text><climbaccess and are described R to L. Descend via the central gully or lower off Nancy Boy.</text>
<climb
        extra="Þ" grade="1217" length="12m7m" name="Johnstone'sVirgin KnobBoys "
        stars="*">The prominent 12m spire that casts a spell on climbers and entices them over. There are several ways ">A pleasant sojourn on the far RH buttress. Climb a short crack on the L edge, step R and up to the top. RapPhil station.Steane, Unknownsolo, Sept.Aug, 19611982. 
</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="1920" length="12m8m" name=" Great Red PointerBoy's Toy "
        stars="*">Bizarre climbing up the side of the Johnstone's Knob that faces Northern Buttress. Involves using the arêtes on either side, sometimes simultaneously. Three BR's. R. Parkyn, 1993.
</climb><text>Could be dangerous. The next buttress L (second from the R). Move R across the face and climb the R arête past a large hollow flake. D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr. 1989.
</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="21" classlength="text10m" newname="falseNancy Boys "
        numberstars="null.*">The>An nextamusing routeencounter isfound on athe small face about 30m south (L)arête L of theBoys KnobToy. andStart aton the same level.</text><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="21" length="12m" name=" Sergeant Slaughter "
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">Pleasant climbing. 4 BRs plus rap station. G. Phillips, Oct. 1995. </climb><text
RH side of the gully that leads to Johnstone's Knob and climb the arête mostly on the LH side via three bolts and a rap station. The ridiculously hard crux is the first few moves immediately off the ground. R. Parkyn, Apr. 1992.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" classlength="text10m" newname="falseChild's Play "
        numberstars="null.">The next two routes are found on Pipedream Buttress, a small buttress about 40m  uphill and southwest (L) of Johnstone's Knob. </text><climb*">Surprisingly insecure moves at the top. The RH arête of the largest (middle) buttress. Start on the LH side of the gully that leads to Johnstone's and climb up the arête and the shallow corner above. D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr. 1989.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="1621" length="15m10m" name="PipedreamWar Toy "
        stars="*">Climb a steep hand crack on the R hand face past some difficulties in the mid section. Abseil off>A bomb waiting to drop. The obvious line up the centre of the middle buttress, just L of Child's Play. Climb up thin cracks just L of the arête and move carefully past the semi-detached spike to a hands off rest on its top. Step off L and climb the wall above. D. BowmanStephenson, RJ. WellsOtlowski, DecApr. 19771989.
</climb>
<climbclimb><text
        extraclass="text" gradenew="18false" length
        number="20mnull.">The name="Shelter From The Storm "
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">The other route on Pipedream buttress. Climb the crack line around the arête L of Pipedream. Tricky. K. Kiernan, Nov. 1975.
</climb><climbnext climb is on a small subsidiary wall immediatly above Child's Play. Scramble up the gully between Nancy Boys and Child Play for 4m then turn L and up to the base of the crack, by a small sassafras tree.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="1418" length="15m12m" name="Adolescent DriftersWe Can Jam Too "
        new="false" number="" stars="">Adolescent Drifters is the off-width crack 6m R of D.N.A. Phil Steane, D. Fife, 1982.
*">Steep and potentially strenuous if you get it wrong! Start up the crack then follow the arête before moving L into the crack again when your feet are level with the horizontal feature. Jam the crack to the top making full use of the arête. Abseil off using a Hakea tree. J. Fisher, J. Robinson, May 2005.</climb>
<text
        class="heading2">DNA Buttress<>Johnstone's Knob
</text><text class="text"
        new="false"
        number="null.">DNA>A Buttressnumber isof ashort smallroutes buttressexist 30mon steeplyoutcrops uphillin andthe RJohnstone's fromKnob thearea. topAll ofroutes thecan Pipedreambe buttresslocated andeasily contains several lines,from here.
Descend via the mostrap stations prominentabove isthe Gearbolted Freakroutes, thewalk corneroff crack.or Descendtape toabseil the Lrest.
</text>text><climb
<climb
        extra="Þ" grade="1512" length="10m12m" name="D.N.A.Johnstone's Knob "
        stars="*">Just>The Rprominent of12m Gearspire Freakthat iscasts a linespell withon aclimbers suspendedand bladeentices 3m off the groundthem over. ClimbThere toare theseveral blade and up the widish crack ways to the top. Rap Dstation. BowmanUnknown, RSept. Wells, Dec1961. 1977.
</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="1619" length="10m12m" name="Gear Freak Great Red Pointer "
        stars="**">Ten>Bizarre metresclimbing ofup purethe joyside forof the crackJohnstone's enthusiastKnob Thethat handfaces crackNorthern inButtress. theInvolves prominentusing cornerthe immediatelyarêtes Lon of D.N.A. Gets wider as you go. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb. 1982.
</climb><climbeither side, sometimes simultaneously. Three BR's. R. Parkyn, 1993.
</climb><text
        extraclass="text" gradenew="18" length="10m" name="Rheumatism "false"
        starsnumber="null.">The thinnext lineroute upis theon arêtea tosmall theface Labout of30m Gear Freak. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb. 1982.
</climb><climbsouth (L) of the Knob and at the same level.</text><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="8 21" length="8m12m" name="Simple Minds "
        stars="">The shallow corner chimney 4m to the L of Rheumatism. Phil Steane, Oct. 1982.
</climb><climbSergeant Slaughter "
        extranew="false" gradenumber="12" length="8m" name="Pancakes "
        stars="*">The flake on the wall L of Simple Minds. FA: Unknown
</climb>
<text>Pleasant climbing. 4 BRs plus rap station. G. Phillips, Oct. 1995. </climb><text
        class="heading2">Toy Town</text><text class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">Toy>The Townnext istwo aroutes groupare offound four small buttresses immediately R of Northernon Pipedream Buttress, Lowera Cliff.small Thebuttress routesabout are40m entertaining with easyuphill access and aresouthwest described(L) Rof toJohnstone's LKnob. Descend via the central gully or lower off Nancy Boy.</text>text><climb
<climb
        extra="" grade="1716" length="7m15m" name="VirginPipedream Boys "
        stars="*">A pleasant sojourn>Climb a steep hand crack on the farR RHhand buttress.face Climbpast asome shortdifficulties crackin on the Lmid edge,section. stepAbseil Roff. andD. up to the top. Phil Steane, solo, Aug, 1982Bowman, R. Wells, Dec. 1977.
</climb><climbclimb>
<climb
        extra="" grade="2018" length="8m20m" name="Boy's ToyShelter From The Storm "
        stars new="false" number="*">Could
  be dangerous. The next buttress L (second from the R). Move R across the face and climb the R arête past a large hollow flake. D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr. 1989 stars="">The other route on Pipedream buttress. Climb the crack line around the arête L of Pipedream. Tricky. K. Kiernan, Nov. 1975.
</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="2114" length="10m15m" name="NancyAdolescent BoysDrifters "
        stars="*">An>Adolescent amusingDrifters encounteris foundthe onoff-width thecrack arête6m LR of Boys Toy. Start on the RH side of the gully that leads to Johnstone's Knob and climb the arête mostly on the LH side via three bolts and a rap station. The ridiculously hard crux is the first few moves immediately off the ground. R. Parkyn, Apr. 1992.
</climb><climb D.N.A. Phil Steane, D. Fife, 1982.
</climb>
<text
        class="heading2">DNA Buttress</text><text class="text"
        new="false"
        number="null.">DNA Buttress is a small buttress 30m steeply uphill and R from the top of the Pipedream buttress and contains several lines, the most prominent is Gear Freak, the corner crack. Descend to the L.</text>
<climb
        extra="" grade="2015" length="10m" name="Child's Play D.N.A. "
        stars="*">Surprisingly>Just insecureR movesof atGear theFreak top.is Thea RHline arêtewith ofa thesuspended largestblade (middle) buttress. Start on the LH side of3m off the ground. Climb to the gully that leads to Johnstone's blade and climb up the arêtewidish crack andto the shallow corner abovetop. D. StephensonBowman, JR. OtlowskiWells, AprDec. 19891977.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="2116" length="10m" name="WarGear ToyFreak "
        stars="**">A>Ten metres bombof waitingpure tojoy drop.for Thethe obviouscrack lineenthusiast upThe thehand centrecrack ofin the middleprominent buttress,corner justimmediately L of Child's PlayD.N.A. ClimbGets upwider thinas cracksyou just L of the arête and move carefully past the semi-detached spike to a hands off rest on its top. Step off L and climb the wall above. D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr. 1989.
</climb><textgo. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb. 1982.
</climb><climb
        classextra="text" newgrade="false18"
        number length="null.10m">The next climb is on a small subsidiary wall immediatly above Child's Play. Scramblename="Rheumatism "
        stars="">The thin line up the gullyarête between Nancy Boys and Child Play for 4m then turn L and up to the base of the crack, by a small sassafras tree.</text><climbto the L of Gear Freak. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb. 1982.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="188 " length="12m8m" name="WeSimple CanMinds Jam Too "
        new="false" number="" stars="*">Steep>The andshallow potentiallycorner strenuouschimney if4m youto getthe itL wrong!of StartRheumatism. upPhil theSteane, crack then follow the arête before moving L into the crack again when your feet are level with the horizontal feature. Jam the crack to the top making full use of the arête. Abseil off using a Hakea tree. J. Fisher, J. Robinson, May 2005.Oct. 1982.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="8m" name="Pancakes "
        stars="">The flake on the wall L of Simple Minds. FA: Unknown
</climb>
</guide>