North Esk
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Acknowledgement | by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets. | ||||||
Introduction | The climbing in the North Esk provides great entertainment, especially on those hot northern afternoons when a refreshing dip can add to the completeness of the experience and the rich tapestry of life. Not to mention those times when you head up towards Ben Lomond only to discover the mountain crags wet and horrible. Just bail out and slum it down in the lowlands. In summary, good climbing all year round. There are seven main crags in the vicinity, which are described in the order they are approached: Corra Linn Bridge, Crystal Palace, Riverbend, Hidden Crag, Grap Fureau, Dogs Head Crag and Castile Crag. Most (but not all) of these crags are described in this section. |
GPS |
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To get to the Corra Linn bridge, a great little swimming spot, head for Ben Lomond. Soon after leaving the city bounds, the North Esk river will be crossed at a bridge, a mere ten minutes drive from the city.
Roland the Headless Thomson Gunner 14m 18 Climb the corner and surmount the roof directly. Nice face climbing leads to the top. McMahon, Narkowicz, Oct 84.
Thin Lizzy 14m 23 Start off the platform directly below the bridge and climb the very thin crack up the guts of the crag. Absolute class. Can be a bit wet at high river levels (ie. underwater). Narkowicz, McMahon, Oct 84.
Balbec 13m 16 Downstream from Thin Lizzy, up to flake, over the small roof on the big spike and up. McMahon, Power, Foken, 1984.
Combray 13m 21 Bridge up the thin corner R of Balbec then up either finger crack above. McMahon, Ling, Prall, 1984.
There is some climbing to be had down stream from the bridge on both sides of the river and on the "island" in the middle. However you'll have to explore it for yourself.
The Boys are Back In Town 14m 23 Start just L of the orange wall, at a bottomless blank groove just right of the arête . Layaways lead to some underclings on the arête . Continue up, using further layaways off the arête to reach the jugs and the top. G.Narkowicz, Oct 84.
Persistence of Time 10m 22 3Þ The arête with 3 bolts. Features on the cover of McMahons North Esk guide. Selby, 1999.
Whiteline Warriors 13m 23 Start about 5m R of The Boys are Back In Town at the orange wall. Climb straight up the wall. Narkowicz, Oct 84.
Gange Redatti 13m 18 The nice finger crack/corner to the R of Whiteline Warriors. R.McMahon, Oct 84.
The Crystal Palace is a few hundred meters upstream of the Lead Shed. It is best approached by walking from the parking space for Riverbend (see Riverbend below) through the gate (GPS NES000) and turning immediately L back parallel to the road, heading towards the bridge. At the end of the roadside guardrail, head towards the river and you should find yourself above the climbs, about 100m in total distance (GPS NES010). Abseil off a tree down a corner/gully upstream of where the cliff and the river meet. It's best to find Southern Pacific, which is easily recognisable by the bolt, and work from here.
1. Crystal Laces 13m 15 On the downstream end of the buttress is a crack that ascends a blocky face to a ledge. Begins as a finger crack, then hand crack. Mantle onto ledge and follow the twin cracks to the top. McMahon, Narkowicz, Smith, 1982.
2. Jesus Christ Pose 13m 18 Even better than the song. Up Crystal Laces to the main ledge, step R to arête and then up. Bissett, Vincent, 1998.
3. Saved by the Salvos 13m 17 Climbs up Stanley Pub and hand traverses L to join JSP finish. Baxter, 2007
4. Stanley Pub 12m 16 Pleasant corner R of JSP. Steep, but easy. Ling, Smith, McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
5. Schemata 10m 16 Hand jam the corner, with thinner sections higher. Good face holds on blocky sections. Narkowicz, McMahon, Smith, 1982.
6. Southern Pacific 12m 19 Corner to roof and bolt. Past this and up corner to the top. Retrobolted, 1997. Narkowicz, Smith, McMahon, 1982.
7. Crystal Nacht 12m 16 Line around the corner from SP. Up to a tree, finish up off-width. McMahon, Narkowicz, Smith, 1982.
8. The Great Exhibition 12m 17 Face and crack climbing up the side of the pillar. Up the flake to a ledge, then up chimney to top. Narkowicz, Smith, McMahon, 1982.
9. Hurts So Good 12m 19 Start on the R where the ledge ends. Follow the line up the face , then onto arête to finish. Narkowicz, Smith, Ling, McMahon, 1982.
Short But Sharp 6m 17 From top of cliff drop down short gully on western side, climb the R trending diagonal crack on the wall facing downstream. Dennis Kearnes 1995.
The cliffs at Riverbend are about thirty minutes from Launceston (ten minutes drive and twenty minutes walk). There is a great variety of climbs and some are excellent. Most routes are on natural gear, with a few modern sporty ones for the hard boys and girls.
Drive to Corra Linn bridge on the C401, and park 200m further on at the first gate on the L (the farmer has asked that climbers park 100m or so further past the gate as their cars spook the cows when he is bringing them through the gate). The cliffs are approximately 1 km walk across the paddocks, on a bearing of about Mag 20.
From the gate (GPS NES000), head across the field (roughly MB 40º), striking the first saddle at a clearing, about the fifth major tree from the R. A faint 4wd track descends into the next paddock and past the dry creek. Keep on that bearing, to the only gate at the top R end of the field, about 5 minutes walk from the car. Follow a track up, trending L, through the light bush to the next crest and a big dead tree on the ground. You are heading for a big cairn at the top of the gully between Jesus Freak and Claire (GPS NES020). A second descent gully lies a further 60m or so upstream, descending steeply by Bullfrog Buttress.
The Guide describes the climbs L to R, starting at Home Buttress, the furthest L crag (as you face the cliff), about 60m L from Bullfrog Buttress.
Drive to Corra Linn bridge on the C401, and park 200m further on at the first gate on the L (the farmer has asked that climbers park 100m or so further past the gate as their cars spook the cows when he is bringing them through the gate). The cliffs are approximately 1 km walk across the paddocks, on a bearing of about Mag 20.
From the gate (GPS NES000), head across the field (roughly MB 40º), striking the first saddle at a clearing, about the fifth major tree from the R. A faint 4wd track descends into the next paddock and past the dry creek. Keep on that bearing, to the only gate at the top R end of the field, about 5 minutes walk from the car. Follow a track up, trending L, through the light bush to the next crest and a big dead tree on the ground. You are heading for a big cairn at the top of the gully between Jesus Freak and Claire (GPS NES020). A second descent gully lies a further 60m or so upstream, descending steeply by Bullfrog Buttress.
The Guide describes the climbs L to R, starting at Home Buttress, the furthest L crag (as you face the cliff), about 60m L from Bullfrog Buttress.
Going to my Hometown 7m 20 About 30m left of Reculer Pour Mieux Sauter is a small buttress. This is the L most line. McMahon, Ling, Mohlar, 1982.
Tenderness of the Rock 7m 21 Towards the R of this buttress is a thin corner. Layaway up the corner using face holds on the L. Narkowicz, Tierney, Sep 84.
About 30m left of Bullfrog Buttress is a buttress with a 1m roof at ground level. Slightly uphill is a free-standing pinnacle. There are a couple of gross looking choss-buckets on the R of this, but some class up L. This is Reculer Buttress. There is a DBB above Only Boomerangs Come Back.
Eyeful Tower 12m 12 Climb the corner directly opposite the chimney. Avoid bridging unless you feel you're about to die. D.Gray (solo), Dec 96.
Vortex 12m 14 Climb up the arête , past the single bolt and up to the U at the top. Beware the "dinnerplate" rock for the final move. Rap off the final bolt. Ng, 1986.
Reculer Pour Mieux Sauter 12m 20 The most striking line in the vicinity. Follow the finger crack until it fuses, then move R and up. Rap station. McMahon, Ling, 1982.
Rock of Salvation 13m 23 Start as for Reculer Pour Mieux Sauter. Climb this for 4m to the horizontal break, traverse R for 2m, then climb up the extremely thin seam using face holds on the L wall. Narkowicz, Tierney, Apr 83.
Right Variant/Direct start 13m 24 Start 2m to the R. Up past a carrot to join the above climb. Ng,1996.
Only Boomerangs Come Back 12m 17 Layback up the face (or use the offwidth if you're masochistic) to good gear, then launch straight up past the 2 bolts to a bouldery finish up the blank v-corner. DBB which can also be used for rapping off the previous climbs. M.Perchard, Dec 96.
Stretching the Limits of Possibility 12m 12 The chimney R of the above climb. Looks shithouse, but its been done! Ling, McMahon, 1982.
Who Done It 12m 22 Climbs the LH edge of the pinnacle, just R of the deep chimney. Climb straight up the steep arête , past a lone bolt. Ng, 1986.
Eiffel Tower 12m 19 3Þ Climb the R sided of the pinnacle past 3 FH. Great moves and an "out there" feel for a small climb. DBB. Designed by Dave Grey, soloed by Marc Tierney (1997) and bolted by Fox.
The most obvious buttress in the area is Bullfrog Buttress, which has a good range of routes up the bulging overhanging wall, and the steep classics further R. The descent into the area generally accesses this buttress first, and is the best place to get bearings from.
Spit Chips and Get Crook 15m 22 On the extreme L of Bullfrog Buttress is a micro-thin crack through a roof followed by a finger crack. Climb to the roof, then reach over this for a layaway. Two successive dyno's on flat holds lead to the finger crack. Narkowicz, Sep 84.
Bullfrogs 15m 17 Nominated "best name of the year" in 1982 for the full version Don't You Hate Them Mornings When You Wake Up With Them Bullfrogs On Your Mind, it is (obviously) generally abbreviated to Bullfrogs. About 4m L of PMOUF is an easy looking line, where the angle of the roof eases. Climb it. Ling, McMahon, 1982.
Sedating the Freaks 15m 26 3Þ The line of 3 bolts 2m R of Bullfrogs (same start as PMOUF). Grant Rowbottom, 1997.
Pink Mountains of Unwilling Flesh 15m 22 Takes the easier of the two obvious parallel lines through the roof. To access this climb a bouldery start (obvious) to horizontal. Traverse R 2m to the peapod then up crack through roof. Narkowicz, Smith, Oct 82.
Eureka I've Discovered Dolerite 15m 22 Same start as PMOUF but keep traversing another R to the next crack. Up past a twenty-year old piton. Smith, McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
King of Kings 15m 24 Start on the block, move L and follow the crack system to the top. Sustained and tricky for the gear, but a great climb. Gerry Narkowicz, 1984. A direct start has been added by Gerry at 26.
Rip Your Lungs Out Jim 15m 22 Takes in the most impressive bright orange wall on the crag. Start as for Kickstart Corner. After climbing that for 3m, traverse L across the overhanging orange wall leftwards to the arete, then follow the crack to the top. Reachy and committing. Narkowicz, Tierney, Sep 84.
Inertia 12m 16 The corner L of Kickstart. Climb up the steep corner for 3m to the block. Move up over this, then finish up the hand crack and steep face. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Kickstart 11m 19 Start off the block, and (with great difficulty) gain the crack, with good pro. Continue jamming straight up the steep crack. A brilliant route. Descend by down-climbing the easy chimney behind Initial Resistance. Narkowicz, McMahon, Oct 82.
Initial Resistance 15m 18 The route to the right of Kickstart. Another problematic (unprotected) start leads to easier jamming, palming, laybacking ; the only way this rock hasn't been ascended is blindfolded! McMahon, Narkowicz, Oct 82.
Northern Girls 15m 23 The first obvious line, taking in the searing finger crack up the steepish wall. Start off the block. Finger jam to the small roof where the crack thins. Layaway over this (crux), heading L for a good hold, some poxy fingerlocks before collapsing on the finishing ledge. E.Peacock, J.Kennedy, 1984.
Life Support 15m 16 Just R and around the corner from Northern Girls are four good looking lines. This is the L most one. Jam up the hand crack, then finish up the easy offwidth/chimney. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Royal Flush 15m 18 The thin crack/corner 1m R of FH. From the ledge go over the block on the R and up the face and arête. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
The Last Minute 10m 23 Þ Start at base of Royal Flush then aim for the first bolt. After the large ledge at half height slab moves past two more bolts. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.
The Final Quest 12m 24 Þ Two bolts on the arête 3m R of The Last Minute lead to the large ledge at half height then two more protect the top arête. Same DBB as TLM. Narkowicz, 2001.
As the Crow Flies 15m 19 4m R of Royal Flush go up wide crack to ledge then up hand crack in corner. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Born Again With Two Heads 12m 25 Þ The face with 3 FH and some natural gear. Difficult to avoid going right at the top. You may want to stick-clip the first bolt which is a ridiculously high placement for shorter folk.Narkowicz, 2001.
Judas Freak 6m 25 The blank looking corner to the R. Traverse off once on the ledge. Narkowicz, originally solo, retro bolted. 1985.
Go R for 30m to another small crag, bright orange in colour on the L and R, and black stained in the middle (where the bolted line goes up). On the L of the face is a thin crack.
Claire 10m 14 Start just R of the black face. Another easy jam, climb the leaning corner with the tree at the top. Rap station. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Scary Hairy Bear 12m 23 The blank looking face R of Claire. Climb the seams on the RH side of the face to a horizontal seam, traverse L along this to gain the top as soon as you can. Run out. Narkowicz, 1984.
In Your Town 13m 14 Climb the thin rightwards trending crack up the steepish corner. DBB. Mohler, McMahon, 1982.
Ankle Biter 10m 23 Þ The next line of bolts to the R, straight up past 3 bolts. Well protected face but can be hard to get plates over the bolts. Take a cam (#3 ish) for the top. DBB. Ng, 1986.
An Hours Knee Tremble with a Friend 12m 17 The easy crack just R of Ankle Biter which goes through a small roof at 3m. A bit problematic through this, but eases after that before a sharp finish! Narkowicz, McMahon, Smith, 1982.
I Like it Better When There's Not Much Choice 10m 17 Next corner, uphill and R. McMahon, Mohler, Ling, 1982.
Ramrod 10m 17 Twin cracks past several horizontal breaks on the LH end of this buttress. Narkowicz, Kearnes, 1984.
Slowhand 15m 19 Start in the chossy gully, 6m L of Powderfinger. Ease up past the large flake (at the time of this ascent it felt well stuck on) heading R for the small L facing corner. Straight up above this to the top.
Bill Baxter and John Gale, 25 April 2008.
Bill Baxter and John Gale, 25 April 2008.
Powderfinger 17m 17 Intermittent crack and face climbing. Start at the block, and follow easy hand jamming to the bulge at half height with the difficulty increasing towards the top. A great route. DBB. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Drive All Night 17m 24 Climbs the face to the R of Powder Finger. Less than average protection. Start from the block and layaway up the edge until it runs out, then go directly up the blank face. Claimed to be one of the best climbs at Riverbend, but tread with caution. Gerry Narkowicz, April ,1983.
Possum Prostanthera 15m 18 Þ Climb the sharp arête past 2 FH on the detached block 2m L of "Too Much Alcohol". Give yourself an extra 2 grades if you avoid bridging across the chimney. DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, Hyland, 2002.
Too Much Alcohol 17m 17 Climb straight up the finger/hand jam crack in the back of the corner to the hanging block. Good protection and a few good rests. Smith, Narkowicz, Ling, McMahon, 1982.
From the top of Riverbend a ragtag collection of buttresses is visible on the other side of the river. Being largely south facing these cliffs are better in summer. Access either by crossing the river from Riverbend or by walking up from the Corra Linn bridge on the Launceston side of the river and dropping down when you are opposite the downstream end of Riverbend.
Gone a Gutser 9m 23 An isolated pinnacle on the most downstream end of the cliffs. Opposite Powderfinger. Climb the thin crack in the middle of the face and traverse R at the roof. Selby, McMahon, Narkowicz, 1999.
Babes in Bikinis 9m 22 2Þ Up the face of the pillar R of Camless Cammo past 2 bolts. Selby, Evans, 1999.
Continue up river on the top of the hill for 200m until you come to a dead tree. Drop down hill here to the next lot of climbs on Funny Geraniums Buttress.
Alpha and Omega 8m 20 McMahon displays his knowledge of Greek. The finger crack through the overlap. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1999.
Funny Geraniums 15m 18 The main corner crack system on the upstream end of the crag. McMahon, Evans, Firth, 1999.
The Brink of Eternity 15m 21 Up the arête right of Funny Geraniums past hollow block to thin crack on the L . Narkowicz and co., 1999.
Drive and park as for Grap Fureau, and follow the trail as for that crag. At the T-junction turn left and follow the pipeline downstream for 20 minutes. This brings you to a concrete tower. Follow the overflow creek from the pipeline downhill on the left side for 300m 3 tapes. Down hill leads to Slit Skirt Buttress, Little Black Buttress, The Burma Face and Klingsor. Straight ahead leads to the unknown.
Alternatively and definitely quicker access is to drive along the highway and park at the gate (which gets locked at 3pm) to the Water Treatment Plant. Walk 1.3km along the road to a farm gate on the right just before a cattle grid. Follow the 4wd track across the paddock for 150m to a junction with a footpad. Turn right and walk another 150m to arrive at the concrete tower and overflow creek.
The first two climbs are on Slit Skirt Buttress. Access: 30m downhill from the 3 tapes junction turn left at the rock cairn and follow your nose for another 30m.
Alternatively and definitely quicker access is to drive along the highway and park at the gate (which gets locked at 3pm) to the Water Treatment Plant. Walk 1.3km along the road to a farm gate on the right just before a cattle grid. Follow the 4wd track across the paddock for 150m to a junction with a footpad. Turn right and walk another 150m to arrive at the concrete tower and overflow creek.
The first two climbs are on Slit Skirt Buttress. Access: 30m downhill from the 3 tapes junction turn left at the rock cairn and follow your nose for another 30m.
Slit Skirt 13m 18 The classic jam crack in the middle of the buttress becoming off-width towards the top. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1983.
I Don't Wear No Rip Shirts 13m 17 The thinner right hand crack around the arete and 4m right of Slit Skirt. Smith, Deka, 1983.
The next 2 climbs are on the Little Black Buttress which is 30m downhill from the rock cairn turn-off to Slit Skirt Buttress.
Another 30m downhill and down stream from Superman is a pair of pinnacles with 2 excellent routes on them, not to mention some of the longest routes in the North Esk. The first pinnacle is easily visible from the trees with double tape markers on them.
The Annointing 25m 23 The thin seam on the middle of the upstream pillar. Start at the very bottom of the buttress in the thin cracks just right of the corner. Narkowicz, Kuylaars, 1999.
Klingsor 25m 21 The companion route on the downstream pillar. Climb up the intermittent crack system starting in the left trending slot. Narkowicz, McMahon, Ling, 1983.
To get to the Burma Face head downhill 50m and upstream 50m from the Little Black Buttress. This should bring you to the top of this cliff which is right above the river. Rap in.
Boy Bastard's Cobber 20m 18 The left most route with a small roof at half height. Ling, McMahon, 1983.
Boy Bastard 20m 17 Climb the face to traverse right at the top. McMahon, Haye, Alanvale college, 1983.
If you continue downstream from Klingsor for 60m you'll get to The Prows. The name for which becomes obvious from the downstream side.
The Glass Bead Game 25m 18 Climb the right hand prow which looks like a stack of blocks. Ling, Narkowicz, 1983.
Demian 25m 19 The corner with two cracks in it, to the left of the smooth face, with a snaking crack at the very top. McMahon, Tierney, Cassidy, 1983.
Bladerunner 25m 23 Up the smooth face with the thin seam using arête. Original ascent used a piton in one of the horizontal breaks. Kuylaars, Narkowicz, 1999.
If you're going to walk from Hidden Crag to Grap Furoh or vice-versa then this place is well worth a visit. Access: From the t-junction above Grap Furoh follow the pipeline towards Hidden Crags for 500m. A rock cairn and some orange tags mark the way.
Corruption and Kindness 12m 21 The arete with a large flake at 5m height. Narkowicz and McMahon, 1983.
Brute Force and Ignorance 12m 20 The thin corner with a stump sticking out at 2/3rds height. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1983.
The Second Chapter 12m 22 2Þ The arete and face with 2 FH which are reachy to clip. Narkowicz, 1999.
This crag has a very different feel to it from your typical dolerite cliff. Stunning orange rock with black faces make a great visual contrast. There are two sections of the crag separated by about 100m of casuarina. Some of the rock on the upstream cliff has a strong resemblance to Arapiles. September/October can be difficult to climb here unless you can have rational conversations with screaming falcons.
To get there take the road to Ben Lomond, until 7 km past the Corra Linn bridge where there's a sign for the water treatment plant. 400m past this is a locked gate on the left with a dirt road behind it. Don't park here if you want to be able to drive your car home. Park further up the road. Follow the track for about 10 minutes until you come to a large concrete water pipe. Turn left for another 50m to a cairn, and orange tape. Follow this dropping down the gully on the right hand (upstream) side to emerge at the bottom of the downstream cliff. About 20 minutes walk all up and easy to find.
To get there take the road to Ben Lomond, until 7 km past the Corra Linn bridge where there's a sign for the water treatment plant. 400m past this is a locked gate on the left with a dirt road behind it. Don't park here if you want to be able to drive your car home. Park further up the road. Follow the track for about 10 minutes until you come to a large concrete water pipe. Turn left for another 50m to a cairn, and orange tape. Follow this dropping down the gully on the right hand (upstream) side to emerge at the bottom of the downstream cliff. About 20 minutes walk all up and easy to find.
The climbs on the upstream section are about 100m upstream and slightly uphill from the end of the downstream buttress. As per the editors (read despot) instructions climbs are described left to right even though you will be walking past them right to left. So the easiest way to read this is to go to the end of the descriptions and work back to the start.
Swing Low Sweet Chariot 10m 19 30m from the end of the main buttress is a small orange crag. Climb the finger crack in the scoop and up to arete. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Orinoco 15m 18 The orange corner 2m left of Class of '82, just right of the orange roof 2m off the ground. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Class of '82 18m 18 40m uphill from Lay Down Sally is a thin crack passing through an overlap. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Montezuma 20m 21 30m left of Lay Down Sally is a strange looking conglomeration of blocks sticking out to form little roofs. Climb up these. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Ata Hualpa 20m 19 2m right of Montezuma. Through the little roof low down to the off-width/chimney above. McMahon and Narkowicz, 1982.
Ruling Class 15m 18 Up the orange corner 5m left of Warlencourt. Currently has a fallen tree on the top of it. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Warlencourt 20m 11 Off-width crack 10m left of Lay Down Sally. Most of the off-widthing can be avoided. Starts of the ledge with the she-oak on it or add some extra distance by climbing the groove beneath it. McMahon, Johnson and Lewandowski, 1983.
Just Like Birds 30m 19 7m left of Lay Down Sally on the wall right of Wallencourt. Blast straight up the face past the intermittent cracks. Excellent. Smith, Ling, 1982.
Rambling On My Mind 25m 17 The big corner 2m left of Lay Down Sally. Goes up just left of the roof 2m off the ground. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Lay Down Sally 16m 17 Just right of the roof. Layback the hand and finger crack in the corner, 25m left of Flesh in the Sewer. Good climbing. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Rio Negro 16m 15 The left slanting crack starting 3m right of Lay Down Sally. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Flesh in the Sewer 20m 16 More bulging baby bottom style climbing on the blunt arete 8m left of Rory Jack Thompson 3. Tierney, Narkowicz, 1984.
Rory Jack Thompson 3 20m 14 Up through bulges in the first corner of the buttress on Arapelisian style rock. Tierney, Narkowicz, 1984.
As you walk across to the upstream cliff from the downstream cliff you will see a fantastic looking orange face. The next two climbs are on this.
Moe the Sleaze 20m 18 Good climbing up the prow on the left. Same start as Pioneer Chicken Stand then move 3m left at the ledge. Narkowicz, Tierney, 1984.
Pioneer Chicken Stand 20m 20 Cracked face to ledge then thin crack above. McMahon, Smith and Ling, 1982.
As you walk across from the downstream cliff to the upstream cliff a small buttress is visible up the hill about half way across.
Southern Suckers 20m 18 Up finger crack in the corner going around roof on the right. Narkowicz, Tierney, 1984.
Cat Scratch Fever 23m 21 Starts just left of Blues Power. Traverse left to the middle of the face then goes straight up. Narkowicz, Fry, 1984.
Blues Power 15m 20 On the left hand end of the buttress are 2 corners close enough together to look like they could be the one climb. Blues Power takes the left hand corner and continues up the hand crack on the left. Narkowicz, Ling, Smith, McMahon, 1982.
Mac the Knife 20m 21 The grey and black corner 1m right of Blues Power. which then finishes up the right finger and hand crack. McMahon, Narkowicz, Smith, Ling, 1982.
Brecht 22m 18 The face 5m right of Mac The Knife. Looks loose but is apparently solid. Ling, McMahon, Smith, Narkowicz, 1982.
Down to the River 21m 18 In the middle of this crag, 2m left of NPFW, the crack going through several bulges and overlaps. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
No Place For Whimps 30m 18 The corner capped by a large block at half height, 15m left of Peregrination. Smith, Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
The Smell of Napalm in the Morning 30m 18 The corner just right of No Place For Whimps finishing up the same corner. McMahon, Smith, 1982.
The Heretic 20m 23 The blunt arete 2m left of Peregrination. Carry a rack only if you need the weight. Narkowicz, 1984.
Peregrination 20m 17 The twin corner with a tree on the ledge just above the base. McMahon, Mohler, Smith, 1982.
The next series of climbs are around the corner from Peregrination. In what is sometimes called the Second Amphitheatre.
Courage and Stupidity 25m 20 On the very end of the amphitheatre. Goes up orange wall to corner, over small roof with bush, then up off-width. Narkowicz, 1984.
The Breaker 35m 18 15m left of Shooting Rabbits is a series of corners, go left at the roof and climb the chimney. McMahon, Fry, 1982.
Stone Free 20m 25 Climb the first corner of Shooting Rabbits to the ledge then continue up the blank arete above. Good runners but difficult to place. A bit reachy. Narkowicz, 1985.
Shooting Rabbits 30m 20 The corner 1m left of Pocahontas. Climbs up a series of 4 corners. Smith, McMahon, Mohler, 1982.
Set Free 20m 25 From the ledge after the twin cracks of Pocahontas continue straight up the arete. Initially done with pre-placed wires. Add a grade for placing them as you go. Narkowicz, 1999.
Pocahontas 30m 23 The orange face with a thin crack that becomes 2 further up. 2m left of The Code. Climb the thin cracks to the ledge, continue up the fused corner (originally protected with a piton). Finish up the finger/hand crack with an overlap at the top. Moon, McMahon, 1985.
The Code 32m 18 The corner 1m left of Rat's Castle with pig face (don't you wish you'd paid attention in botany class now) growing out of the ledge 6m up. Continue up the next corner with a hand crack. Finish up the final crack of Pocahontas for a bit of extra spice. McMahon, Fry, Mohler, 1982.
Stuffed Quail 18m 20 Twin cracks in black corner eventually becoming hand and off-hand crack. Ling, Deka, 1982.
Shout for Jimmy 15m 23 Bold but excellent climbing up blunt arete 3m left of Wages of Sin to thin crack/face at the top. Narkowicz, Cameron, 1985.
Wages of Sin 15m 20 Difficult start to piton runner and then up crack system above. Apparently it is cheating to bridge across to Estimation corner (add 2 grades if you avoid it) but it's self-flagellation if you don't. McMahon, Ling, 1982.
Estimation 15m 21 The thin crack in the black corner left of the off-width up to ledge and continue up corner above. Smith, Mohler, McMahon, 1982.
Abracadabra 15m 20 The glaring off-width to the same ledge as Stuck in the S Bend. Hans and Thomas Mohler, 1982.
Stuck In The S Bend 15m 22 The first climb in the next amphitheatre. A thin "S" shaped crack leading to a small ledge and then find your way to the top. Narkowicz, Tierney, 1984.
A Fine Line, I'd Hate To See It Go 15m 20 Climb finger and hand crack in corner to ledge then continue up through bulge and off-width. McMahon, Smith, 1982.
Shake the Disease 15m 23 4m left of Inheritors is a face with 2 carrots to ledge and then 2 more up the final wall. Excellent climbing. Ng, 91.
Inheritors 15m 19 Thin crack in right angled corner 15m left of D-Day. Smith, Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
D-Day 8m 23 Thin seam in face half covered by a dead she-oak at the top. Hopefully some kind soul has removed the she-oak. 2m left of Hans Solo. Smith, McMahon, 1982.
The next 2 climbs are on the tier above Foot and Mouth. Access by scrambling across and up from the descent track.
Pig Bastard 12m 19 The right hand crack to the overlap then the face above. Narkowicz, Tierney, 1984.
The furthermost crag upstream in the North Esk is that of Castile Crag. The climbs are not described here so take yourself off for a bit of an adventure or get McMahon's "North Esk" guide. From the Grap Furoh carpark continue driving another 2 km to Forest Rd., a dirt road on your right. Park here. On the left side of the highway is a fire-trail heading north past a small dam. Follow this for about ten minutes until you get to a cairn of rocks on the left side of the road. Follow the orange tags downhill and downstream for another 10 minutes. The new landowners of the property near Castille Crag request a phone call several days prior to visits by climbers. Phone John Adams on 0409 393748 or 0407 393448 to arrange access.
