Nichols Needle
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Acknowledgement | by Tim Chappell | ||||||
Introduction | This prominent dolerite spire marks the southern end of a high forested ridge above the Douglas River, and is clearly visible from the highway north of Bicheno. The Needle has been climbed in a long return day trip, but it’s more pleasant to take two days and bivvy on the ridge near Nichols Cap (no water) or camp near the river. | ||||||
Access | The Needle can be accessed by rock hopping up the Douglas River from the bridge at the highway, and then ascending the Leeaberra Track to Nichols Cap (refer to Douglas-Apsley Map & Notes 1997, and the Parks & Wildlife Service website: www.parks.tas.gov.au). There are bush camping sites near Heritage Falls and Tevelein Falls, and outside the park there is commercial camping at Bicheno and at Lagoons Beach. National park fees apply and park passes can be purchased from the visitor centres in Bicheno and Freycinet, or from Service Tasmania shops state-wide.
The fungal root-rot disease Phytophthora cinnamomi, is present in the southern parts of the park. This fungus is carried in soil and water and is easily transported on walking boots, tent pegs and by cars and other equipment. To prevent its spread, please stay on walking tracks where possible and only walk the Leeaberra Track from north to south to minimise the risk of the fungus being spread into the northern part of the park. The park is a fuel stove only area. |
North face of Nichols Needle. A climber is visible standing at base of the access notch/gully described, to the left of the main face.
Nichols Needle Trad Route 60m 14 Possibly the only easy/moderate route to the summit, it can be difficult to locate and gets few ascents. Access is via the summit of Nichols Cap. Scramble down through the cliff bands to the scree-covered saddle directly below the imposing (north) face the needle.
Start: Scramble up the narrow gully to the notch immediately L (east) of the main face. Abseil 15m down the vegetated gully on the shady (south) side of the notch to belay on a large vegetated ledge.
1) 25m Cross the gully (heading W) and climb up easily on mossy ledges to the start of steeper rock. Mantle onto a ledge (awkward) and step L to the base of a steep clean crack. Bridge and jam up the crack (crux) past an old peg, to botanic exit onto a large ledge.
2) 15m Bushwalk L along the ledge to the base of an obvious corner.
3) 15m Climb corners and easy-angled scrubby rock to the summit.
Descent slings are located on the NE side of the summit - abseil directly to the notch used for access previously.
M. Douglas, D. Webber, T. Terry, Easter 1966
Start: Scramble up the narrow gully to the notch immediately L (east) of the main face. Abseil 15m down the vegetated gully on the shady (south) side of the notch to belay on a large vegetated ledge.
1) 25m Cross the gully (heading W) and climb up easily on mossy ledges to the start of steeper rock. Mantle onto a ledge (awkward) and step L to the base of a steep clean crack. Bridge and jam up the crack (crux) past an old peg, to botanic exit onto a large ledge.
2) 15m Bushwalk L along the ledge to the base of an obvious corner.
3) 15m Climb corners and easy-angled scrubby rock to the summit.
Descent slings are located on the NE side of the summit - abseil directly to the notch used for access previously.
M. Douglas, D. Webber, T. Terry, Easter 1966
West Gendarme Route 25m 12 From the eastern col, traverse the broad ledge to the west col. Climb the face. Climbed by M. Douglas, D. Webber, T. Terry, Easter 1966, but they found a cairn on top bearing the names of John Elliot and Barry Higgins from the original Van Diemen Alpine Club who first climbed the route probably in the early 1960s.
