<guide version="3"> <header access="The Needle can be accessed by rock hopping up the Douglas River from the bridge at the highway and then ascending the Leeaberra Track to Nichols Cap or via the Leeaberra Track southwards from Thompsons Marshes (refer to Douglas-Apsley Map & Notes 2011, and the Parks & Wildlife Service website: www.parks.tas.gov.au). There are bush camping sites near Heritage Falls and Tevelein Falls, and outside the park there is commercial camping at Bicheno and at Lagoons Beach. National park fees apply and park passes can be purchased from the visitor centres in Bicheno and Freycinet, or from Service Tasmania shops state-wide.<br/>The fungal root-rot disease Phytophthora cinnamomi, is present in the southern parts of the park. This fungus is carried in soil and water and is easily transported on walking boots, tent pegs and by cars and other equipment. To prevent its spread, please stay on walking tracks where possible and only walk the Leeaberra Track from north to south to minimise the risk of the fungus being spread into the northern part of the park. The park is a fuel stove only area." acknowledgement="by Tim Chappell" history="Such a prominent landmark as the Needle, easily visible from the main road, was bound to attract the attention of the early pioneer rock climbers. In fact there were five attempts by eight different climbers before the first ascent in 1954. The successful team was Keith Lancaster and Max Cutcliffe from Launceston, both very strong climbers, with experience of climbing in New Zealand, Nepal and Europe. The piton they used as a runner was still there fifty years later! " intro="This prominent dolerite spire marks the southern end of a high forested ridge above the Douglas River, and is clearly visible from the highway north of Bicheno. The Needle has been climbed in a long return day trip, but it’s more pleasant to take two days and bivvy on the ridge near Nichols Cap (no water) or camp near the Douglas River." name="Nichols Needle" rock="Dolerite spire, up to 50m high" sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="A couple of hours, rock hopping and bushwalking" id="1" camping="" autonumber="false"/> <image noPrint="false" src="Nichols Needle Access.jpg" width="500" id="2" height="375"/> <text class="text" id="3">North face of Nichols Needle. A climber is visible standing at base of the access notch/gully described, to the left of the main face.</text> <climb extra="" grade="14" length="60m" name="Nichols Needle Trad Route" number="" stars="" id="4" fa="K. Lancaster, M. Cutcliffe, 10 July 1954.">The easiest route to the summit, it can be difficult to locate and gets few ascents. Access is via the summit of Nichols Cap. Scramble down through the cliff bands to the scree-covered saddle directly below the imposing (north) face the needle. Start: Scramble up the narrow gully to the notch immediately L (east) of the main face. Abseil 15m down the vegetated gully on the shady (south) side of the notch to belay on a large vegetated ledge. 1. 25m. Cross the gully (heading W) and climb up easily on mossy ledges to the start of steeper rock. Mantle onto a ledge (awkward) and step L to the base of a steep clean crack. Bridge and jam up the crack (crux) past an old peg, to botanic exit onto a large ledge. 2. 15m. Bushwalk L along the ledge to the base of an obvious corner. 3. 15m. Climb corners and easy-angled scrubby rock to the summit. Descend by slings via the NE side of the summit - abseil directly to the notch used for access previously.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="12" length="25m" name="West Gendarme" number="" stars="" id="5" fa="Climbed by M. Douglas, D. Webber, T. Terry, Easter 1966, but they found a cairn on top bearing the names of John Elliot and Barry Higgins from the original Van Diemen Alpine Club who first climbed the route probably in the early 1960s.">From the eastern col, traverse the broad ledge to the west col. Climb the face.</climb> <climb id="6" stars="" extra="" number="3" name="South Face Direct" length="" grade="17" fa="Dave James, Tim Whelan, circa 2002">It is quite pleasant to walk up the Douglas Riverbed from the Highway to the intersection with the Leaberra trail that traverses the national park. From there walk up the trail to the north until it seems sensible to traverse to the base of Nichols Needle on the south side. Start the climb near the lowest point on the south side of the Needle.<br/><br/>1. 30m. hand crack with tricky move to the right about 20m up.<br/><br/>2-4. two or more pitches up cracks and slabs to summit. Most likely joining original route about 2 pitches up. We passed a piton. Abseil to the notch as per other climbs.<br/><br/>This description needs more detail and validation. I have a slide of the initial handcrack, which I will digitise and upload at some point.<br/><br/>We camped at the trail intersection on the river after walking in then did the climb and walked out the next day. It was a pretty fun adventure to the top of an amazing little summit. Def worth it.</climb> </guide> |