Lark's Edge
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Acknowledgement | by Peter Jackson, originally published in Craglets. | ||||||
Introduction | Although Lark's Edge is a small crag, it possesses some excellent little climbs. The location beside the sea is quite exquisite, although it might not be such a great place when the swell is up! If you really went for it, you might do all you want to in a single visit - but then again, how many people do ten or fifteen routes in a day? | ||||||
Access | To get to the crag requires a thirty minute drive and a slightly shorter walk. Leave Hobart and drive toward Clifton Beach. About a hundred metres before the beach (and just before the wooden bus shelter) turn left down Bicheno Road. "Power" along the road to a right turn at the "Cape Deslacs Coastal Reserve" sign, about a kilometre past the last hump. Drive along the gravel road for several kilometres until almost at the Cape. Park in the lower car park and from its furthermost point walk along the largest track through the trees, and across the paddocks, towards the coast. Follow the coast north for about 1.5km. After passing an inlet and about 10 minutes walk, you will glimpse the cliffs in the distance - and will probably dismiss them as being too small. However, rest assured that they are more impressive in the flesh. When amongst the thistles and old grey stumps, drop downhill to Lark's Edge - a short half-hours walk all up. Refer to the section on Clifton for an access map. |
The first climbs are on the Main Wall. There are now five bolts and one absolutely manky piton atop, which now make top-roping and topping-out a dream.
Dawntreader 8m 15 The east face of the leaning block. Go up, moving left to the arête and the finish. Marcel Jackson (solo), Nov 89.
Anchor Blade 8m 16 Climb the right-hand edge of the leaning block which faces the cliff. Step up with difficulty then follow the arete to the top. Very poor protection (none!). Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.
Schweppes 8m 16 The inside wall of the leaning block. Climb the face trending right towards the top. Small wire protection is possible but of doubtful quality. Hamish Jackson, Nov/89.
Aiken Drum 10m 9 Very pleasant. Start immediately right of Anchor Blade and across the gap leading to Schweppes. Climb up on rounded holds to an easy angled crack. Jacksons (solo), Nov/89.
Aussie Butler 10m 16 Rather deceptive. Start about 3m right of Postscript. Climb the overhang and continue up the crack moving left at the top.
Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.
Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.
Aussie Butler Variant 10m 19 Start as for the original line. Climb the incipient crack on the left to finish at the same point. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.
Wall Street 10m 14 A climb on steep and alarming rock which may well collapse! After Aussie Butler the cliff base turns a corner. Climb the face just right of the arête. Hamish Jackson, Nov/89.
Nexter 12m 21 Almost brilliant - steep face climbing with small wire protection for the top crux. Start 1m right of the chimney and ascend the thin crack in the wall. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.
Strongbow 12m 20 The shallow left facing corner 3m right of Nexter. Climb up on good holds, then finish up the corner. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.
Ozone 12m 22 Steep climbing up a proud section of rock. Start 1m right of Strongbow. Climb the face to the small roof, pull around this, then continue up to the horizontal break and a good runner. A long crank allows the hole to be reached and hence the top. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.
Thug 12m 22 The obvious hand-crack. Climb with difficulty around the overhang, then more easily up the crack above. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.
Clubfoot 12m 20 Start as for Thug. Climb right across the sweep of grey rock beneath the overhang then pull onto the face above. Continue up easily to a short wall finish. Peter Jackson, Nov/89.
Stairway to Heaven 12m 19 Great fun with a crux finish. Start at the corner right of Clubfoot. Climb the easy corner, then move left of the overhang to a long reach finish. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.
Ngalibanga 12m 18 Start just right of Stairway to Heaven. Ascend the finger pockets and the face, then finish out right of the roof. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.
Leyland P76 12m 17 Start on the face just right of Keko. Climb up to join the right trending crack at one third height. Continue on to a small jug and hence to the top. Evan Peacock, Jan/90.
Freezinhot 10m 19 Start immediately right of Little Mary. Move up easily to the horizontal break, then to a large jug on the right arete. Reach high for a sloper, then the top. Evan Peacock (solo), Jan/90.
Sunset Over Carlton 10m 16 Climb the line up the face just to the left of Scuba Diving, with runners in the incipient crack to the right. Colin Reed, Jan/90.
Megasweet 10m 21 The face immediately right of Scuba Diving. The line is decent but protection is less so (RP's out right). Evan Peacock, Jan/90.
Strine 10m 20 Climb up on small holds to a horizontal crack, then on to the top. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.
About 100m north along the coast are the Compact Walls. They are slightly smaller than the main one, and are located just before the large 'island' platform (the Big Sucker). Access to the bottom of the climbs can easily be made by descending at either end of the wall or by scrambling along at sea level.
Crinkle Cut 8m 16 Start 10m right of Black Lace and 2m left of Barbed Wire Love. Peter Jackson, Nov/89.
Barbed Wire Love 8m 21 A single small wire placement at the thin horizontal crack ensures ground fall potential in the upper reaches after the middle layback crux. Marcel Jackson, Nov/89.
About 50m right of here is a bouldering area. Further on still, on an isolated buttress and the last routes.
