Freuhauf
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Acknowledgement | by Matt Perchard & Evan Peacock, originally published in Craglets. | ||||||
Introduction | Freuhauf is the epitome of the urban crag ... barking dogs, big trucks, a nearby tip, loud music and the occasional domestic argument all contribute to the ambiance of squalor. The battery hen farm that used to contribute to the general atmosphere has now gone but the mosquitoes and sandy finishes are still there to welcome you. Turned off? Don't be. Freuhauf has much to offer, and although it is predominantly a TR training crag, most of the routes have been led. So come down one warm summer evening, socialise with the hordes (its popular!), and crank on some excellent sandstone lines. The placement of TR anchors and retro-bolts has made the place a lot more user friendly, but be prepared to brush the dust off a route after rain... and bring the mozzie repellent over summer. | ||||||
History | The crag was discovered in 1981 by the 'Dirty Hands Gang' - some Elizabeth College reprobates also responsible for Coningham and numerous other far less memorable choss piles. The first route was Bedside Manners are Extra, followed by Plastic Erection - after many tries and much "rock sculpturing". Later came Anaphalaxis, led on all natural pro' - a rather horrifying thought! The original line traversed left and up across an obvious set of features to finish at the top of what now is Gun Ho. The other classic of the crag, Suck Ethics, was originally led on only 2 bolts, the second of which fell out as the lead climber past! Thankfully this route and most of the others are far better protected now. | ||||||
Access | To get there drive up Davey Street to the Southern Outlet. Turn right down Macquarie Street and follow this to bus stop 16. Take the right-hand turn into McRobbies Gully Road (towards the tip), then right again into Degraves Street. Go across the bridge then turn left into Tara Street. Park outside the gates as they may be closed after hours. The cliff is obvious, on the left hand side of the trailer/junk park. Ascent to the top of the crag is easiest on the extreme left of the crag. Most climbs are marked with their initials, although some are getting a bit worn. TR anchors have been installed above most of the popular climbs. |
Mononeuron 18m 23 TR: Start on the extreme left of the cliff below the overhanging wall. Climb the easy slab to the overhanging wall, then follow the jugs above to the top. Evan Peacock, Nov/89.
Lager Frenzy 18m 24 TR: An exciting route up the steep wall immediately left of Bedside Manners are Extra. Follow a series of holds to a small ledge on the right-hand arete of the overhanging wall. Continue up to 'top out' in a fringe of sag grass growing over the top. The rock on the bottom half looks very chossy but is surprisingly solid. Evan Peacock, Nov/90.
Bedside Manners are Extra 18m 17 5Þ The easiest climb around. Start at the base of a 3m head-wall toward the left of the cliff. Climb the short crux wall, then continue steeply up the wall to the open-book corner. Ascend this easily to finish. Alternatively, can be started immediatly L of Plastic Extras and climbed straight up the corner, maybe a tad easier. U-bolts plus TR chain at top. TR C.Maddock. Peter Steane, Nov/82.
Plastic Extras 15m 22 Start 1m left of Plastic Erection and ascend the face with a leftwards trend (but not as far as the easy corner). Under-cling past the small roof, then continue directly up the crux arete above on sloping holds. Finish up the thin face above. Very contrived but still good.
Plastic Erection 15m 21 5Þ A great climb. Climb up for a few metres then move rightwards to the obvious lay-away flake. Move left (crux) to better holds, then follow the weakness above to finish at the blocks. U-bolts plus TR chain at top. Craig Maddock, 1983. TR Gerry Narkowicz, 1982.
The Chodd 25m 25 The great traverse, starting up Plastic Erection and across on bolts to finish at a chain midway up GT. A very sustained outing. Marcel Jackson, Jul/93.
Cadwallada 15m 27 Þ A challenging climb, especially in an old pair of boots or barefoot. Start 2m right of Plastic Erection. Climb the easy wall, then move right a few metres to a ledge where the difficulties and bolts commence. Climb directly to the start of a rising rightwards facing lay-away edge. Ascend this, then the face above. Evan Peacock, 1990 (TR), FA Grant Rowbottom, 1996.
Gun Ho 15m 26 Þ A big dyno and thin face climbing characterise this line. Start just L of Sucks Ethics. U bolts to a lower-off. Evan Peacock, May/92.
Suck Ethics LH Variant Finish Climbs the blank face to the left of the upper section of SE. Grade unknown.
Suck Ethics 15m 25 Þ This sustained climb, in addition to its neighbour to the right, are 'the classics' of the cliff. They speak for the benefits of (dare I say it) chipping, for without this (filthy) practice the climbs would not exist! The climb quickly gets into the swing of it with a dynamic sequence of moves to get off (and often back onto) the ground. After reaching the ledge, continue up past four u-bolts. After the last bolt, move slightly left then up to finish. Both this climb and Anaphalaxis may easily be top-roped, though a lead is strongly recommended. Phil Bigg.
Jack Jumper 15m 27 TR: A training contrivance - nothing else. Start just right of Suck Ethics. Dyno-dyno-dyno to reach the right-hand side of the horizontal slot on Suck Ethics. Trend right and up to reach the pocket on Anaphalaxis and dyno left to the pocket on Suck Ethics. Layback straight up to finish. Evan Peacock, Aug/93.
Anaphalaxis 15m 24 Þ A sustained line up the centre of the cliff with a very hard crux start. To leave the ground either step up then 'dyno' for a hold at 3m, or use the good initial hold to follow the weakness on the left to the horizontal break. Continue up to the small roof and a huge jug just below a rightwards trending overlap. Move right past this (if you're tall enough) then power on to the top. Another chipped (and now glued up!) classic. U-bolts plus TR chain. Simon Parsons, Apr/82.
Play Launch 15m 24 Unfortunately/fortunately the 1st bolt on this route was missing at the time of printing, and the others don't look so good either. Start: either do the desperate dyno start or, much more pleasantly, come in from Anaphalaxis (from the left). 3/4 bolts. Very good idea to sweep the route first. Evan Peacock, May/93.
Wasted Daze 15m 24 Þ The only things wasted after this climb are your fingertips - you won't spend days on it! Power up the tweaky holds, past a bolt, to a jug. Continue easily up then move leftwards until below the overlap, follow the left hand of two final U-bolts using the two-finger pocket to the left to obtain the solitary jug in the smooth face, mantle the ledge above and move right to chains.
Wasted Daze RH Variant Finish 15m 25 At the final overlap on WD a tricky move right leads to an alternative finish past a U bolt leading to the WD chains.
Mozzie Fodder 15m 26 TR: Must be brushed first, the route is thin and smeary. 2 bolt TR anchors at the top. Start: virtually at General Benefit, but shares none of the holds, stay just left of General Benefit then head leftwards at two-thirds height. Evan Peacock, Oct/92.
General Benefit 15m 22 Þ The wall 2m left of Bondage and Discipline. The current speed record (from ground level to a hand on the jug at the very top) is held by Evan Peacock at 27 seconds but the recent departure of some significant holds have made things more difficult. After the initial (crux) start, continue up easily through layaways and good holds to more difficult moves just after the second bolt. After gaining the crack, finish up the dirty jugs above. (Editors note: the large flake recently fell off plus a fairly crucial hold further up, and the grade has definitly increased from the original 19!). 4 U-bolts plus TR chain. Simon Parsons, Apr/82.
General Discipline 15m 20 TR: Located halfway between General Benefit and Bondage and Discipline the naming of this climb showed remarkable originality. Best take a brush to the cliff before trying this one! Start up Bondage and Discipline until alongside the roof. Climb straight up to a good pocket, then ascend the steep wall above (trending slightly right) on small and well spaced holds. Justin Kennedy, 1984.
Bondage and Discipline 15m 20 Þ A fairly sustained route which gets more strenuous with height. Climb directly up until alongside the rood (where a piton used to exist before gravity got the better of it and a climber). Traverse right 2m, past the scar left as another large block jumped ship, then ascend the overhanging face above. Trend leftwards above to finish on the sandy jugs to TR chain or finish up R past another bolt to chain above Bad Habits. TR Gerry Narkowicz, Sep/81. FFA Phil Steane Nov/82.
Bad Habits 15m 23 Þ Start immediately right of Bondage and Discipline before the ground falls away. Move up and to the right, past a u-bolt, to good jugs at half height. Continue up the steep wall past the second u-bolt, then ascend the blankish face (crux) above the third u-bolt. TR anchor at top.
Genital Thrust 15m 23 TR: On the extreme right of the cliff, the ground falls away: start here. Ascend the initial overhanging face. Move left around the arête, then continue up past the bolts of Bad Habits. The climb makes a pleasant lead if you start by stick-clipping the first bolt of Bad Habits. Peter Steane, 1984.
Gibbon Tactics 15m 21 TR: Start as for Genital Thrust. Climb straight through the overhang, then ascend the right-hand side of the prow. Finish via the hole (visible from the ground). Good value. TR Richard Marshall, Feb/87.
This is Steep Mum 15m 25 TR: Although the rock looks shitty (certainly for protection), this is an excellent route, a really good pump for the length and it awaits a direct variant. Start about 2m R of GT/GT, set up TR belay from a tree about 5m left and uphill from the top of the climb. Evan Peacock, Jan/93.
