Blog from February, 2016

If so, I have them; get in touch to arrange  a safe return.

Will

LaSportiva Shoes for sale

Hi All,

 

I have 2 pairs of brand new, never worn, LaSportiva rock shoes for sale:

1 x Muira Velcro size 38,  $110 Sold

1 x Testarossa 38.5, $120

 

Text on 0408 367 371

or email at jamestrainer1981@gmail.com

 

Cheers,

James.

Check out this video and article of my ascent of the Salathe Wall with Ingvar Lidman last October.

http://climbtasmania.com.au/blogs/news/76663493-salathe-wall-el-cap-video

Looking for Allan Keller

Does any one know how I can get in touch with Allan Keller or know anybody who may know how to get in touch? The man seems to be hard to find.

Please get in touch 

simonbischoff@hotmail.com

Cheers.

Inspired by a visit from top Canadian trad climbers, I finally climbed a line on the Mountain I have been eyeballing for quite awhile. It's the face across from Inflagrente. I was a bit worried about the gear so I preplaced and preclipped the anchor. However, I barefoot solod past the bolted anchor to the top of the cliff which I'm pretty chuffed with. I'm not that happy with the overall style but since realizing the new wave of climbing ethics in Canada I have booked a ticket there and plan on toproping Cobra Crack for another fully sick send #InsertSponsorsHere!!! Thanks Kanuks for showing us how to climb down in sleepy little backwater Tasmania. Thanks for revolutionizing climbing in Australia!

 

 

Trotsky's Pink Revolution 40M 24/31 (or whatever happens to be the hardest grade in the state)

Climb up easy handcrack to no hands rest. Place high runner (skip if already preclipped the anchor) and stretch out left into crack on arete. Follow the arete getting close to the chimney in a couple places but well worth staying on line. Good gear but hard to place in spots, again not a worry if you preclipped the anchor Canadian style.

 

 

P.S. This route does actually exist. I did really climb it on top rope about an hour ago. I am really writing it up. If he can I can.... right?

 

New Routes and News 2016

Stu and Tony have done a new route in between Boys Games and Game On on Northern Buttress:

★ 37. Pension Day 20m 20/21 9Þ ↓ 
Unlikely but interesting climbing on the next buttress to the right. Scramble up the initial gully as for Boy's Games to a U-bolt. Surprising: devious games in the vertical plane.
Climb the face direct until forced left onto the arête. Continue up using the wall further left until it is possible to move back onto the face and right arête. At the top of the short hand crack, step up and hand traverse back right onto the hanging face. Stay on the steep wall to the top and a rap station
S. Scott and T. McKenny, Feb 2016.

Moai Link Route

We're pretty sure this one has already been done, but thought we'd ask around. Yesterday a mate & I climbed a "direct start" from the V groove chimney on the zawn side of The Moai that links in with 'Sacred Site' as it curves around into the top bolt line. Goes at about the same grade (18) but I'm guessing a touch more consistent. Could be quite nice if it wasn't so sandy. Led solely on trad gear bar the top anchors.

Looking for partners

Hi All,

Have just moved to Hobart, and I am looking for some regular climbing partners. I'll be here until end of Jan 2017.

I prefer to trad climb (18-20), but will do sport happily (21-22?), and keen to get out most weekends to the town crags or ideally the Organ Pipes.

Anyway, if you can help me out, let me know.

Dan

Sonnie Trotter's trip

For those not following along on Instagram, Sonnie Trotter has done a repeat of the free Ewbank Route on the tote, linking it up into a single 60m pitch - calling it the "the first complete Free Ascent of the Ewbank Route".

Very impressive, but I think the FFA stays with Doug and Dean!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BBgL61hEsT5/?taken-by=sonnietrotter

 

Some good photos here:

https://www.instagram.com/sonnietrotter/

https://www.instagram.com/bearcam/

https://www.instagram.com/willstanhope/

 

Forum Issues?

Hi Jon

It seems that at least one person is having problems with the forum, finding that it "times out".

Comments?

Cheers

Doug

The thesarvo iPhone app has a new version in the App Store - version 2.0.

Major changes are:

  • Content updated
  • I rewrote the navigation to use a menu that you can show and hide
  • Searching is better
  • It shows a table of contents of the current guide in the menu, so you can flick between climbs easier
  • Maps show tracks as well as points for the maps that have them (eg Killiecrankie, Kempton, a few others)
  • And most importantly, changes to the guides on thesarvo.com now sync to the app. It checks for updates to content every now and again, and immediately pulls down new text and images.
  • iOS 8 and later

It's still free at the moment (as Apple made it more complicated to charge money and I haven't filled in the right forms).

Get it by searching for "thesarvo" on the app store, or click the buttone below:

 

There's probably plenty of bugs in it, as there is lots of new code, add a comment here if you find one.