Blog from September, 2011

I'll be in Tasmania beginning of October to hike the Overland Track, but would like to do some climbing as well. I can climb up to a grade 21 (follow). I have a rope and a small bit of sport climbing gear, just need a partner. Give me a ring at 0415357631 if you're interested.

Thanks,

Rebecca

Found: green Vertical rope protector. Lassies wall. 0429934059

Hey,
I'm coming to Tassie arund the start of december to do the western arthurs hike.

After the hike I'll have about a week spare, I'd like to get some climbing in, probably

on Mt Wellington, or whateva works out. I climb about low to mid 20's.

If I manage to get some good contacts with someone keen I might fly over earlier to

get some climbing done before the hike too.

Mobile:0405548425 or email mettaminspirations@hotmail.com

Cheers Gideon

For the latest developments re tracks to the base of the Organ Pipes, go to the CCT Members Area.

Cheers

Doug

Unfortunately it seems like a locked gate is going back on the bottom of the road to Handsome Crag (as at 18/9/2011)

There is a possibility that we may be able to negotiate access, but until this happens please don't climb there or try and contact the owners.

There is a thread in the CCT area to discuss: http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/cct/2011/09/18/Handsome+Crag+Access

Tassie Tackle and Outdoor in Burnie are hosting the Reel Rock film tour this year at Metro Cinemas, 14th November at 6.30pm.

This is pretty sweet news for those of us in North of the state, save us travelling past the banjo line at Campbeltown to see the tour. $10 a ticket, more info at http://www.reelrocktour.com or http://www.tassietackle.com.au.

Tickets available at Tassie Tackle and Outdoor on 6431-6500 or enquiries@tassietackle.com.au

To all interested parties:

We appear to have a real opportunity to make things happen re tracks and other potential works. Please go to the CCT Members Area for details and your chance to have some input.

Cheers

Doug

This years TCIA AGM is planned to be held Monday 26 September 2011 at the Republic Bar, North Hobart at 7pm. It would be great if as many TCIA folk attend as possible, as well as anyone else interested in working in the future as a guide/instructor.

Just a reminder for CCT members: log in to the CCT space and go to the Forum if you have any suggestions for environmental (track work, platforms, signage, etc) or maintenance (e.g. anchor replacement/additions) work that you'd like to see the CCT either pay for or sponsor. We are trying to have a broad view of different climbing venues across Tasmania that might benefit from some intervention. A northern Tasmanian icon yesterday suggested some track work down to Lassie's Wall would be good. Any other ideas? Please post suggestions on the CCT Forum so we can collate and put some plans in place. There are sources of funding if we have good ideas.

Cheers

Doug

i received this wild story from tony a few weeks ago, thought i would share! hope you enjoy as much as i did!

"it ain’t about high grades, just two old farts having fun..." - Tony

Email from Italy

From: Tony and TomSent: Tue 6/09/2010 09.30am
To: Old Codgers Climbing Group
Subject: Just another day on the crag…..

Hi All,

Now in Scotland, having a lovely time, wish you were here. The Dolomites are sensational, more rock than you can poke a stick at... and accessible too, apart from the queues on the popular routes. But they can still bite your bum as we found out, nearly to our cost.

You know accidents can be made up of small incidents - like the gaming machine, 3 lemons means you have hit the jackpot and are in deep shite.....


Lemon 1. Late start, lovely hot day, long-ish walk up to the Mariakante pinnacle . The climb wasn’t supposed to be too hard but at 3000m, the air is a bit thin and everything takes more effort. Tom had selected the climb with his usual cunning, neat climbing finishing at the téléphérique for a beer and a quick ride home, as befitted a pair of pensioners.

Too hot really but there was only a young Italian couple just in front of us so we relaxed in the sun. Didn’t realise they were a lemon. Actually, they were a bit of a number, young, beautiful, all colour coordinated, red helmets, red jackets, even red socks and a red rope – lovely - and with helmet microphones too.

By pitch 5 though, a long committing traverse, they were clearly going way too slow, lots of “tight rope” or the Italian equivalent and histrionics from the girl when it got too hard.

Tom was getting twitchy... “They are too frigging slow, the cloud is building, get past them before we get frigging benighted”.


Lemon 2.   Suddenly, on pitch 6, gale force winds hit, tearing through the notch connecting us to the next part of the climb. So strong it started to blow large rocks down on us, triggering continuous stone fall down the gully and across the next traverse. Hmm - how to climb very, very fast....
The Italian couple were caught in all this and desperately climbed up to shelter where they could while we went up to the left, away from the danger. They hunkered down and we took the lead, as you do. A Russian roulette traverse through the stones, past a couple of bomber threads, then an exposed belay right out on the arête.


Lemon 3. The rain/hail arrived, to add to the wind and thick cloud. Communications now difficult, waterfalls to dodge as well as rocks... sigh.
Helmet microphones shorted out apparently, given the amount of shouting behind us in the storm.
Met up with 3 young Germans at the top of pitch 8, soaked and going hypo as no waterproofs. Racing now for the last easier pitches to the top, up a chimney, with minimal pro and wet rock. Lovely, so Tasmanian....


Lemon 4. Did I say 3 lemons? A sudden scream below us tearing though the wind at top of pitch 9. Shite.

A quick reverse to find the big German lad had pulled an absolutely massive block onto his arm, jamming it in the crack, him swinging off it. So in the rain, gale, etc etc we tugged and shoved and pulled and somehow, eventually, prised the rock off enough to wriggle his arm out and he fell out onto the rope to moan quietly to himself. A minor miracle, the arm wasn’t broken, probably because of the size of his fleshy bicep but the crush injury was nasty.

We retreated upwards in chaotic confusion..... the cable car passed literally just a few metres above us, the guard gesticulating out the window the last car down would leave in “ fünf minuten” so we are desperate to get on it. 5 mins left for last 2 scrambly pitches.

Lemons all over the place now..... Germans hypothermic, quivering in the wind and stumbling, us not much better but at least still functioning as a team, miles of rope in a snarl of wet knitting, sleet, hail, loose rock and roaring wind, the injured lad shaking with shock but climbing surprisingly strongly with the help of a tight rope and an occasional push but still moaning quietly to himself.

Tom shot off up to the station, climbing over the safety barriers to “persuade” the cable car guard to wait: just standing in the door and growling quietly but menacingly at him proved to be sufficient.

Two mins later, suddenly, game over...

Quiet, warm, dry, safe, and we are winging down to the pass in the last cabin of the day. High fives and hugs from the relieved Germans as they left to get the lad to hospital. Back at camp, lots of wine and food and hot showers. Life is sweet.

Got away with it – again...... .

Tony 

PS And the young Italian couple? No idea, they were still below us somewhere in the storm....

PPS BTW, the sudden change in the weather was apparently due to a sudden “turbulent instability” over the Atlantic. Hmmm.... snowed all the next day. Don’t you love Alpine climbing?

PPPS Helmets with vents let in rain

Hi Guys,

While the Organ Pipes guidebook has a 'selected best' or similar list of the best routes at each grade, the Freycinet guide currently doesn't have this.
I think this is a great page of info for visiting climbers (and locals) and could be a worthwhile addition to the Freycinet guide, as there are many routes with stars up there.

What are peoples' thoughts on this? Is it too much hassle?

Alex

Video of mark polinski at oatlands in the rumble cave, shot by andrew geeves:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LaV_V24r0cc

Are you concerned about the state of tracks to climbs? What to do about it? If you want to have input, log into the CCT Members Area, click on the link to Maintenance and Environmental Work and add a comment.