Skip to end of metadata
Go to start of metadata

Time to start a new thread for new routes as the other one is too big.

Dave Humphries has done two new routes at Nieka:

Garden Wall is the small wall 50m left of Blade Runner buttress, split by a narrow crack (Old School).
★ Harden Up  8m  21  3Þ ↓
Face climbing on the left side of the wall. The climb is best staying off the arete.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Dec 2010
★ Old School  10m  19   ↓
A nice warm-up for Harden Up. Climb the narrow crack then traverse to the anchors on Harden Up. Take a range of small cams.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Dec 2010

And I found an unclimbed moderate trad line on Great Tier:

G Pillar  30m  15  
The pillar between Clouds of Obsession and Slow Combustion offers well protected climbing on good holds. Start a couple of meters left of Slow Combustion under a clean corner. Up the corner and line above keeping left of the bush. From the ledge step left onto the arête and follow it up past the second bush to the top of the pillar. From here either step 4m left to the Clouds of Obsession chains, up head up and R to the second belay of Slow Combustion and continue up that.
Jon Nermut, Tony McKenny, Dave Humphries, Dec 2010.

  • No labels

47 Comments

  1. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    Also unreported from a month or two ago is Callum Hylands new problem on the dam wall at Oatlands:

    ★★ Worthy of Attack    V11  (SDS)
    The shallow crack 6m right of My Happy Place. Sit start on sidepull at bottom of crack, climb up to ledge and then top out in any direction that appeals.

  2. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    Nick Hancock has done a bunch of new routes on White Stack, Coles Bay:

    ★ Silent Witness 15m 22
    Again on the south facing wall at the highest point of the stack, a few metres right of Windjammer, climb a very wide but straightforward offwidth (2 x No. 6 Friends useful) to thin climbing left of the sharp arete of Silent Running, past a stainless peg near the top.
    Nick & Heather Hancock, Dec 2010.

    ★★ Dark Star 15m 24 6Þ
    Directly below Windjammer and gained by a 50m abseil southwards from the top of the stack, is a highly featured wall in a spectacular position. Climb up left from a bolt belay in an alcove, to follow 6 U bolts via great moves to an easy slab. Belay on gear here and finish up either of the Silent routes.
    Nick & Heather Hancock, 2010

    ★★ Silent Running 25m 23 5Þ
    From the very top of the stack abseil eastwards 30m to busy ledges. Climb a straightforward hand crack to a sharp layback arete with 5 U bolts.
    Nick & Heather Hancock, Dec 2010.

    ★★★ The Dark Side 30m 27
    This climb ascends the high hanging wall on the north west tip of the stack. Abseil from below Return to Normality, to belay on a ledge a few metres above the boulder beach. Step across the gap and climb a groove to a short traverse right. Move up past a glued carrot bolt to a break, then swing left to a jug. Follow the hard sequency wall above past 3 more glued carrots and then layback cracks leading to the top. Friends from 1 to 3.5, with triples in the smaller sizes, and 4 brackets.
    Nick & Heather Hancock, Dec 2010.

  3. New stuff at the Ben!

    ** Leper Messiah 19m 27

    Short but oh so sweet. Approach as for Jesus Was a Terrorist. The line left and up of JWAT, at the base of the pillar on the Last of the Independant Ridge directly across from King of Heavan. This is the line mislabled in Memory of a Journey as Ass, Grass or Gas 18. Nice try Bob! Easy 5 minutes scramble from Master Blaster and no 100 metre abseil required! Tips layback (00 Friends) opens up to a joint or two (0 Friends) til you get a yellow alien at the top. This climb required NO cleaning and does not seep. The next pitch is Anna's 17, then if your psyched keep going to the top! What kind of pussy would want to bolt this pillar? Gear placed on lead.

    Crazy John & Merry, Dec 2010

    ** Dangerman Direct 55m 22

    P1- 35m 22 Direct finish to the mega classic! Instead of going up the easy crack right. Bridge left and up til you can step back right into good rest below dirty pod. Then move back left and down a little bit to gain the line (not as contrived as it sounds) and start cranking some of the best sinker finger locks on the Ben! Could be harder but difficult to tell because during FFA it was snowing. Also done Yo-Yo style with ropes pulled between tries. I fell once and ended up red-pointing with half the gear in.

    P2- 20m 18 Mediocre last pitch but WAAAY better then the original!  Waiting for the super direct finish.... ;)

    Crazy John & Gerry N, Dec 2010

    * Survival Sex 28m 22

    Because of the snow, what we were forced to have the day before! Its a fun root. 30m rap in from the top of the west side of the Last of the Independant Ridge. Its the line closest to the pinnacles that doesn't suck. I think the 'line' (which looks like crap) closest to the pinnacles is possibly the finish to the route LOTIR as vaguely described in Memory of a Journey. Survival Sex is good hands to killer layback up a wide crack- take a 4 camolot or 5 Friend. Then bomber gear on slightly sus footers. Surprise face move crux with more face moves around the flaring finger crack. The rap in detracts, but is worth doing.

    Cj & GizMaster N, Dec 2010

  4. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    Another good moderate at Nieka:

    ★★ The Scared Turtle  15m  22  6Þ
    Up the narrow buttress directly above where the track first meets the cliff. 6 eyebolts to lower off.
    Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Jan 2010.

  5. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    At Mad Monkey Crag:

    ★★ Romeo is Bleeding 20m 24 p
    Start up the first 2 bolts of King Ryobi then veer left at the steep bit following the FH's. Takes a good line with fun climbing. Lower off at top.
    Adam Donoghue Jan 2011

  6. Possible new route on the pipes?

    THe corner/dihedral found to the south of the daedalus bolts.  I think this was an old simon parsons project(?), did he (or anyone else) climb it?

    rap in for a 35m pitch, with a detached pillar forming a belay ledge at bottom with a big spiky tree to belay off!

    a series of finger cracks and seams lead back to the top, with good rests and bouldery cruxes.

    we climbed it today, its probably 23, just wondering if anyone has previously done it, because its not in the guide.

    cheers

    alex

    1. Armchair Ethics 35m 23

      Access from above. Fix a rope to the Daedalus rap bolts, then walk south 4m to top of a steep dihedral with a small ledge 6m down. Abseil 35m to belay on a pillar with a big tree as an anchor. Follow finger crack/seams back to the top, moving left onto face for a few metres at half height to avoid fused section. Well protected (take lots of tips/fingers size gear), with a bouldery crux at the top.

      A. Lewis, S. Young Jan 2011

      if someone could put it in the Mt Wellington guide that would be great. It would be after Once in a lifetime, before the section on cairn column

  7. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    New route at handsomes by Guy Abell:

    ★ Southpaw 10m 22 3Þ
    Packs a punch. Start 5 meters right of Farmer Henry, up the corner and face above to a fun finish. Three U bolts and lower off.
    Guy Abell, Jan 2011.

  8. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    In the news category, Simon Young and Alex Lewis repeated Deeper Water (27/28) at the Tyndalls, and Simon also did Simply the Best (28) at the Star Factory and The Fifth Elephant (27) on Mt Wellington:

    http://climbingsimon.wordpress.com/2011/01/16/deeper-water/

    Other blogs:

    A 4 part trip report on Geryon: http://evcricket.wordpress.com/2011/01/15/tassie-mt-geryon-part-1/

    A Pom writing about tassie bouldering: http://redclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/12/van-deimans-and-devils-tasmania.html

  9. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    Did a few ok problems at a new boulder with easy access at Crayfish Pt, Taroona : Taroona bouldering.
    There are a couple of hard sit starts to be done.

  10. Has anything been done on those boulders at Mt Lyell yet??

    1. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

      Not that I know of

  11. Un-reported from last summer is Andy Richardson's new route at the Paradiso. It's called Captain Jack and is 29 or 30 . It is between Retrograde Amnesia and Number One. It finishes at a bolt with a 'biner on it about 20m up. Andy's description is "Bloody awesome!". Will get full details soon!

  12. On the South Park boulders, in the middle of the three biggest is one for the belayers,

    Your a Towel 18 10m
    Up the awkward handcrack to finish up water runnel. Tape up!!

    Also silent witness was climbed circa 2006, but not in the guide.

  13. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    A whole bunch of new stuff and a lot of stars from Nick Hancock on the West Coast Crags:

    ★★ Heroin Overdose 15m 24
    From the belay above the first pitch of Heroin, battle up the overhanging fist crack, to an easier, very wide crack above, Friends 2-6.
    Nick Hancock Jan 2011.

    Velvet Teens

    ★★ Rubicon 15m 23
    Ten minutes north along the coast from the Velvet Underground is a collection of large boulders by the ocean. On the west face of the largest boulder climb a desperate flaring runnel to a ledge, then the lovely seam and diagonal crack above. Simultaneous abseil off the top.
    Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011.

    ★★ Grit Your Teeth 22 7m
    Fifty metres south and facing inland is a nice golden wall above a zawn, with a perfect flake crack. Climb this with conviction past good wires and cams.
    Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011.

    Eye Rock

    ★★★ Once Upon a Dream 10m 22
    Five minutes past Goldrush, as the view north opens out, and you see a big Castle like cliff in the sea, the track passes right of a blank south facing wall with a distinct eye. GDA 55G 0347080 5357364. Climb the cool thin flake, past a couple of good medium wires, to a bold swing left up onto the arete. Trend up right up a flake with small-medium cams.
    Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011.

    Castle Rock

    ★ A Wrinkle in Time 15m 18
    On the strikingly cracked south east facing wall of the large Castle shaped cliff down by the sea, 75m before Only the Lonely. GDA 55G 0347031 5357406. Climb the left of the double cracks 10m left of the east arete. Cams to Friend 4.
    Heather & Nick Hancock Jan 2011.

    ★★ Timewarp 15m 20
    Climb the steep wide crack just left of the east arete, take a step to the right. Cams to Friend 5.
    Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011.

    ★★★ Quickspace Supersport 15m 25
    Climbs the speckled north east face, trending left from some small cams, past three glued carrots to a DBB.
    Nick Hancock Jan 2011.

    ★★★ Vanishing Point 10m 22
    Twenty metres left of Only the Lonely and on the same fin of rock, climb beautiful twin dykes past 3 glued carrots to a DBB.
    Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011.

    Knobby Rock

    ★★ Hobnobbing 10m 20
    A couple of minutes past Only the Lonely is a dome shaped rock higher on the hill, split by a chimney. GDA 55G 0347016 5357580. Climb the north face on amazing black knobs, crossing the crack, medium cam, and follow 3 glued carrots to a BB.
    Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2011.

    ★ Attack of the Bumble Bees 15m 18
    Climb the hand crack on the seaward face just right of the chimney.
    Heather & Nick Hancock Jan 2011.

    1. Carrots, 2011 :(

      1. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

        Dont forget its still 1981 on the West Coast

  14. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    Will Bartlett blogged a good news round up:

    http://follyinthevertical.blogspot.com/2011/01/news.html

    And a report about Jake and garrys new route in the Tyndalls

    http://follyinthevertical.blogspot.com/2011/01/tyndalls-round-1.html

  15. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    Mark Polinksi finally did the obvious and longstanding project on the Shady Side of the Gorge near Ivy Crack bolted by Fox ages ago:

    Fox Trot 15m 28 Þ
    The bolted open-book dihedral 10 steps right of Ivy Crack. Climb thin crimps up the dihedral and pull the roof trending left to mantle on a ledge. A long reach up and right guards the anchors. If your too short to reach the hold from the ledge without jumping, this is probably more like 29.
    Polinski 2010.

    Meanwhile there have been 5 new routes put up in Upper Fools Couloir in the last couple of weeks. See Broken Buttress for descriptions and topos.

  16. A new one at freycinet. You've all looked up at the roof above sweet revenge and wondered if that impossible looking roof would go, it does!!

    Forever Young ** 25m 28
    Climb the slab to reach first bolt. Crank into line, follow bolts R to finish at Beamans anchors. Classic!
    FA: one guess

    I thought about keeping with the recent naming theme and calling it "I would do anything for love", but i wont do that. (wink)

  17.  From Garry P.

    MT WELLINGTON

    Northern Buttress

    No Name 21/22 36m

    1) 20m 20 Starts 3m right of Plomat. Up hand crack for 7m till its possible to break out left to the face.

    Up this past 5 bolts to the ledge. Gear required #.5 #2 and #3 camolots.

    Walk left along ledge to the arete.

    2)16m 21/22 Up the arete. If you finish up the 3m finger crack its 21ish (requires # .4 and .5 camolots.) If you finish up the face its 22ish.

    Abseil from rings to get off.

    F.A. Garry Phillips and Jake Bresnehan 12/10

    COLES BAY

    Tetragramaton Buttress

    Down Under 25ish 18m

    From the chains on the 1st pitch of Exocet rap into a tiny stance above the water (requires down aiding).

    Climb out, mainly bolted except for a couple of medium size wires up the finger crack.

    F.A. Garry Phillips and Alex Lewis 12/09

    MT BROWN

    Paradiso

    No Name 25ish 18m

    The over hanging arete to the right of To Tall Oxen. Fully bolted.

    F.A. Garry Phillips

  18. New one at paradiso. Not at all 'squeezed in', this is a really cool new addition!!

    Hit and Run*** 25 27m
    Start up Retrograde Amnesia for a couple of moves before heading R, following hangers up steep wall. Clip one U(long runner), before powering up exposed, techo headwall. Finishs at Expendable Youth anchors. To be continued...
    FA Simon Young

    Its all on hangers, to help make it easier to distinguish!!

  19. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    A new one at Handsomes:

    ★ Crème Fraiche  12m  23  4Þ
    The line just left of GSI. Stick clip the first bolt. The grade depends on how hard you find the boulderly start.
    Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Feb 2011.

  20. From the notch on Northern Butrees (where the abseil chains are) look across at the wall and cracks opposite.  Scramble up to the base of the wall from the notch (i.e. top of Rock Away Gully).
    From the traverse point, use along sling on a #2 Friend.
     
    *No Name Yet"  19/20 18m
    From stance, traverse R around corner to enter finger crack.  From half height (where there is a jug in the crack) traverse L (crux) to get established on the face. Up the face to the top via 3 bolts.  Gear required (1 set of cams from 1.5 -2.5 friends).
    G. Phillips and W. Bartlet, 24 Feb 2011. 
    The line of bolts to the L of the above route is another GP project.

  21. In Upper Teardrop Gully.

    Fire and Forget 12m 17
    Start about 12m downhill from Ano's Sojourn, 3m L of Turkey Slap. Climb the short off-width on R of pillar, step out R onto wall and climb thin crack to top. Rap off Turkey Slap DBB.

    T. McKenny, A. Adams, I. Snape, Feb 2011.

  22. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    Ben & Guy added to the rebolting of Gorilla Monsoon and Assagai @ Handsomes by adding a new line that links them up and starts from the bottom (Assagai starts half way up the cliff out of the poxy corner):

    ★★ Afro-rock 28m 25 15Þ
    Start up Gorilla Monsoon, then move right along the ledge to link up with Assagai, then finish up the slab headwall to lower offs. Use long (and extra-long) slings at the traverse to minimise rope drag.
    Ben Wiessner & Guy Abell, March 2011

    Also in the Gorge Mark Polinkski did:

    LP37 - Overhanging Face
    ★★★ 4. Urak-Hai V10 (SDS)
    THE boulder problem in the Gorge. Directly behind LP 37 is an obvious overhanging face. Sit start with right hand low on a right facing slopy side-pull and left hand on a dimpled sloper under the arete. Thug your way through crompression moves with horrible feet straight up to mantle. Avoiding the first move by starting with your right hand up on the lowest good edge is V8 and quite a good alternative if you find you can't pull off the ground.

  23. New one from Garry.

    Killer 28 12m
    Climbs arete 3 meter left of slap dancer.
    F.A. Garry Phillips march 11

  24. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    At Handsome Crag:

    One Too Many 10m 21 3Þ
    Start 1m right of Timbertop at the clean face, which is just left of Touchstone Buttress. Bouldery moves lead past the bolts to the arete and anchors.
    D. Humphries, J. Nermut, Apr 2011.

    At Neika:

    Confabulation 10m 20 5Þ
    On the second buttress left of Garden Wall is a bolted route 2m right of a bolted arete (project). Thoughtful start to get established on wall then pleasant wall climbing.
    D. Humphries, J. Nermut, Feb 2011.

  25. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    Steve Thomas and friends have done a bunch of new problems at Sandfly. Check out Sandfly bouldering for details.

    1. Lost World

      Hoot, 12, 22m The chimney on the abseil line, R of Lactos.  Keep to the outside and finish off L at very top. T.McK, D. Gray April 2011

      1. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

        You're kidding??

        1. The eye of faith - quality climbing and un-noticed by the descending masses.... just your style too, Jon. Destined to become THE climb of Lost World for the aficionado of all things good. We did think of calling it "Intolerance" (lactos - subtle or what?) but decided not to milk that line of names even if it is the cream of the climbs there...  

          1. re ...even if it is the cream of the climbs there....

            Is that (light sour) cream? ;-)

  26. New climb from Phil, just getting it done before the snows arrived....

    Polymorpha             35m   18

    Varied crack climbing in a now clean corner at the far R of Arthur’s Circus, 3-4m R of Line Tamer.

    Abseil in and belay on a large block out from the bottom of the crack.

     A fist jam to start, then move up the crack system to the Lomatia. Climb steeply past this to a ledge and up to a finger crack (crux).

    After this follow the wall with a flake on the L. and chimney on the R. to a tricky exit onto a slab.

    Follow ledges to L and finish directly up the 3m boulder.

     Phil.Robinson, Kim Robinson, Andy Kuylaars (7 May 2011)

     

  27. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    At Neika:

    Bad Books 10m 22 3Þ
    The next buttress left of Garden Walls has a prominent arete - climb the line of three bolts to the right of this. Stick clip the first bolt which is a decent way off the ground to avoid the initial chossy rock.
    Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, May 2011.

  28. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    At Handsome Crag:

    Davey Jones' Locker 15m 23 4Þ
    Through the roof 5m right of Electric Mischief. Bouldery moves to the second bolt then fairly cruisey past another 2 bolts to a DBB.
    Jon Nermut Jul 2011.

  29. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    New route on Northern Buttress from Roger:

    ★★ Game On 28m 21 Þ
    Buttress up hill and right of Boys' Games. Goes to the belay for the second pitch of CEMC. Sport route.
    Roger Parkyn, Claudio Trefny, Steven Goss, Nick Hancock, Aug 2011.

  30. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    Nick Hancock has filled in the details on the cliff at Red Rock Point on the east coast, including some new routes done in August. I created a new guide page for it: Red Rock Point

  31. ★★★

    Sean

    18m

    30

     

     

     

    The slightly overhanging rounded arete straight off the path on the right hand end of the buttress. A hard start and 2 bolts of somewhat dirty rock leads to a horizontal break. Then sustained, powerful and technical climbing on excellent rock through 3 more bolts to lower offs. One of the better hard lines in the Gorge.

     

    Polinski, 2011

    Mark's new one on the Shady Side in the Gorge. Good stuff!

    1. Hey Will,

      do you know which buttress Marks new route is?  I was up there weekend before last and there is a heap of new steel (new routes and random bolts!) on the shady side which aren't in the guide.

      1. Hey Chris,

        No I don't sorry, I just copy and pasted the above info from Mark's update to the guide. I have his email if you want to ask him directly, mine's will_bartlett@hotmail.com I will send it to you if you flick me yours. Cheers!

        1. In case you haven't got in touch with Mark:  It's an arete starting right off the track a little bit uphill from the Double Dozen buttress.  Should be distinguishable by the dirty rock on the low section, a big break, then cleaner rock on the upper section with a really nice looking curving undercling on the left of the arete.

  32. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    Ben Thorp has written up a guide to the old and new problems on Mersey Bluff: Mersey Bluff bouldering

    He writes: "It's not a bad little area the Mersey Bluff and hopefully with this online it will get a few more visits by people who are in the area. I did most of these problems years ago as a schoolkid and some of them are old top-rope climbs from the 80's that are really boulder problems with a contemporary approach. There are also a couple of harder ones I did recently. There are some other new areas under development up here at the moment - not many people have looked at bouldering much in the North before but there are a few of us up here now who are keen on it and there is a lot of stuff to do."

  33. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    At Neika lower tier, on the second last buttress before the track heads up the hill:

    ★ 1. Supermassive Black Hole 10m 22 4Þ
    4 bolts through the overhang left of the arête.
    Jon Nermut, Oct 2011.

  34. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    Mark Polinski has written up the problems he has done at Bradys Lookout - looks pretty good: Bradys Lookout bouldering
    There are 25 problems up to V10.

  35. New route action at Hillwood:

    Mark Polinski has established the hardest route at Hillwood with 40 days of Darkness (29) at Cave Rock.  This heads straight up the centre of the wall and finishes as for Darkness and Light.  With a low crux that goes at about V7/8 followed by grade 26/27 climbing to the top this is quite a classic sustained route. The crux is best done by standing up into the undercling rather than jumping

    Ingvar Lidman has finished the old redtag project through the roof on Golgotha calling it Vanilla Essence (27). 

    Raiden Pump (25) on Golgotha now has an extended start – V5 bouldering into the route making the whole the thing about 27.  The best way to protect this route is to boulder the start with pads and a spotter but keep a rope on and then get the spotter to switch to belaying once into the normal Raiden Pump.

  36. Jon Nermut AUTHOR

    New route from Nick Hancock, at Fortescue Bay cliff:

    ★★ Jesus Without the Nails 20m 23
    Pinch up the fin just right of TCFBS via 7 glued carrots. Medium cams for the belay.
    Nick & Heather Hancock, Jun 2011.

    Also Ben Thorp has written up 25 new and old problems at Doctors Rocks bouldering