Handsome Crag
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Acknowledgement | by Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets. | ||||||
Introduction | This is a crag you either love or hate. I love it but others have described it as "loose", "dirty", "sandy" and even "chossy". Don't listen to any of that rubbish though - just go there and see what you think. Handsome Crag is unique amongst the Hobart craglets for several reasons. Firstly, there is dominance of overhangs which is something conspicuously absent on dolerite. Secondly, the harder climbs are mostly quite user-friendly. Finally, the north facing aspect makes it a warm spot, even in mid-winter. Most of the climbs are identified by small painted initials at their base but the bolts are an eclectic bunch, some "U"s, and a mix of large- and small-head carrots, sometimes on the same climb - take a a variety of bracket sizes with you. | ||||||
Access | It is possible to drive to within fifty meters of the cliff. There used to be a locked gate at the bottom of the road, but this is no longer present. The crag is on Crown Land, administered by Forestry Tasmania. To get there head up to New Norfolk and cross to the northern side of the Derwent River. Head up river and take the first R, followed by a L. Follow this through the outer suburbs of New Norfolk to the T-junction: to get to the cliff turn R along Back River Road. The turn-off to the crag is about 2km along Back River Road from the T-junction. Turn R at the driveway to house numbers 658, 660 & 662 (this is the middle of 3 dirt tracks, with a sign for Derwent Valley Timber Craft) and drive for another 1km before reaching where the locked gate used to be on the left. After a few kilometers of zigging and zagging up a steep, rough road, when it flattens out a bit take a track which turns off sharply to the left. The crag will soon be visible on the right. The road is "good fun" in a 2wd - the extra clearance and traction of a softroader makes the drive a bit more comfortable. If you can't get your car up the road the walk up isn't too grim (takes about 30 minutes). |
Further left from the "main" part of the cliff are two climbs. From Hard and Fast go left up the descent track then left again along to a small cliff.
Desert Haircut 10m 12 Start 20m L of Hard and Fast. Just after walking through a notch, is a short corner containing twin hand cracks and a lip at the top. Climb the cracks to a R-leading ramp. Allan Adams, May/88.
Hammerhead 18m 25 Takes the staircase shaped crack L of Hard and Fast. Traverse L to the base of the finger crack, up this, then rightwards to the fixed wire on Hard and Fast. All natural gear (cams). Mick Berry, 1991.
Hard and Fast 18m 23 Power up the crack in the overhanging wall which has a horizontal at half height. Good protection all the way and a fixed wire, makes this an excellent lead. Don't succumb to the temptation of a top-rope, as many do. TR Pete Steane. FA Gavin Jensen, Aug/88.
Suck the Kumara 18m 20 Ascend the gaping cleft on the overhanging wall R of Hard and Fast. Surmount the large clitoris-like feature at 2/3 height. Finish directly. This route is good fun and not as hideous as it may look. Honestly! Well; some have described it as "a cunt of a root" (sic). Take some big friends as well as some wires. Roger Parkyn, Jul/89.
Palpate the Banana 12m 23 Start off the block and climb the steep wall R of Suck the Kumara. The bolt clip is best facilitated by the use of a stick (plenty around). An excellent 2 and/or 2½ Friend in a pocket protects the climbing above. A second size 2 friend can be used to protect the final move if necessary. Roger Parkyn, Jan/91.
Tora! Tora! Flora! 12m 11 Starts up the corner R of Palpate the Banana. Climb the awkward block and follow the corner to the top. Quite a pleasant route. Stephen Bunton, Sep/89.
Blitz Siege 12m 17 Starts as for Tora Tora Flora. From the top of the starting block, step R and climb the thin crack to the summit. Stephen Bunton, Sep/89.
Garden Party 20m 10 Starts behind the first big black tree 15m to the R of Hard and Fast. Climb the chimney-crack to a ledge at 5m, then traverse 4m R through some vegetation, and climb up and left slightly into a shallow corner which has a tricky exit. This climb looks poxy and, to my knowledge, no-one has been stupid enough to do a second ascent. W.Jensen, Nov/88.
Social Security 35m 20 Climb the finger crack 5m L of Stiff Upper Lip which leads to a small ledge with a tree at about 7m. Continue past this and exit L to a big ledge. Move up to clip a bolt then traverse R to a large flake. Climb the hand-crack above this. Follow the crack system to the top using some pretty skinny wires. Needs a brush. Gavin Jensen, May/88.
Stiff Upper Lip 30m 20 Just L of Blinded by the Beacon is a shallow right-facing vegetated corner. Climb this to a small ledge and continue above to a block-filled easy corner. Move slightly R to clip a bolt and surmount the bulge above it. Climb the corner and flake above to finish. Stuart Scott, Aug/88.
Blinded by the Beacon 15m 21 Start by bridging past a sandy cave past the U-bolt. A carrot protects face climbing to a cave at half-height. Clip a second U-bolt and/or the second carrot, and continue above, trending slightly leftwards before stepping R to finish. Belay or rap off the large tree. Roger Parkyn, Jul/89.
Dredge on an Edge 20m 22 The start, 5m right of Blinded by the Beacon is almost always wet. Don't be put off as the climbing above is excellent and physical. The most popular method is to stick-clip the first bolt (with fixed hanger) and crank past the wet patch. There are two more hangered bolts above, but wires and friends are also needed. At the top move carefully leftwards to belay at the same tree as for Blinded by the Beacon. Richard Marshall, May/88.
Fear of Flying 35m 19 This route ascends the orange dihedral on the steep wall above and right of Dredge on an Edge. Named in honour of its spaced protection, this route lacks popularity. Although undeniably scary the gear is probably adequate, so give it a go if you're feeling bold. The climbing itself is excellent and the position stunning. Start 15m R of Dredge on an Edge, climb past a dirty sentry box to a ledge at 6m. Continue up the hand-crack above till it runs out then traverse L 3m to where the dihedral starts. The crux of the climb is exiting onto the slab above the dihedral. Doug Fife, Jun/88.
Broke Bored and Ignored 20m 18 Grovel up the gully L of Space Master to belay at a horizontally growing gum tree on the L about 10m off the deck. Climb the crack and face to a small ledge. The brushed path continues to the top. Allan Adams, Jul/88.
Space Master 25m 23 After grovelling up the gully the climbing begins by traversing the prominent horizontal rightwards into the middle of the steep orange wall. Small friends and medium sized wires protect the climbing up the thin crack. Move R onto easier ground then up, to reach the base of the arête directly above the thin crack climbed below. Two bolts protect the climbing to the summit. The first of them is clipped blind. W.Jensen, Dec/88.
Space Cadet 40m 23 Þ A captivating overhanging arête on the Space Master buttress, the visual appeal of this line is enhanced by being bristling with bolts. Start well to the R by an unpleasant scramble at the base of a large gully. Traverse leftwards to the climb passing one bolt before the arête itself is reached. Follow three bolts up the arête. After the fourth bolt it is possible to escape by traversing L across the horizontal to where Space Master starts. The continuation of the climb is not as hard as the arête below and I would highly recommend it. Continue a small distance further up then traverse R to clip a bolt below a bulge. Climb the bulge to a sloping ledge then finish up an easy jam crack. Gavin Jensen, Dec/88.
Logarithm 10m 22 I don't know anyone who's bothered to repeat this route as it involves abseiling from above to set up a top-rope. Probably not that much of a chore but not very inspiring, eh. Anyway the route follows a brushed dihedral between the finishes of Space Master and Space Cadet, starting from the slopey ledge. Doug Fife, May/88.
Just Too Hip 20m 25 Þ Crank up the steep arête (2 bolts with fixed hangers) to join Enola Gay at the end of the traverse. Continue up for a few meters then blast out rightwards through the roof (more bolts). Spectacular. The lower part, the arête, makes a good alternative start to Enola Gay (grade 22). Evan Peacock, 1992-3.
Enola Gay 40m 20 1) 20m 19. Start underneath the mega-overhang by ascending a tight groove with a single bolt. The traverse leftwards underneath the overhang is scantily protected but quite easy; take care on the suss rock though. The climbing hots up after you move around the arête and power up the overhanging wall, very spectacular and not as hard as it looks. Belay on the ledge beyond the bird shit.
2) 15m 20. The straight crack (fingers to hands) leads to the summit. It gets pretty steamy towards the top. D.Fife, A.Adams, Jun/88.
2) 15m 20. The straight crack (fingers to hands) leads to the summit. It gets pretty steamy towards the top. D.Fife, A.Adams, Jun/88.
Raptor 35m 22 Þ This is the RH way past the mega-overhang of Enola Gay.
1) 20m 22. Three bolts. The start is marked by a bolt at 5m. Climb the corner under the roof (crux). Continue leftwards then go up the chimney to belay on a ledge. Take some gear for the chimney and the belay (medium sized friends).
2) 15m 21. Climb up the arête, clip the second bolt then traverse L. Pass two more bolts then traverse R to finish. Stefan Eberhard, Mar/91.
1) 20m 22. Three bolts. The start is marked by a bolt at 5m. Climb the corner under the roof (crux). Continue leftwards then go up the chimney to belay on a ledge. Take some gear for the chimney and the belay (medium sized friends).
2) 15m 21. Climb up the arête, clip the second bolt then traverse L. Pass two more bolts then traverse R to finish. Stefan Eberhard, Mar/91.
Gorilla Monsoon 30m 22 Þ Climb the best of Raptor and then instead of moving L to finish the first pitch, go R and crank through the roof (the square looking one from below). Spectacular. Stefan Eberhard, 1991.
Assagai 35m 25 Þ Classy hard face climbing which is well protected by bolts. Unfortunately, however, getting to the first bolt is not brilliantly protected and it is not an easy clip. Start the climb from the tree of Leaky Leg bag. After clipping the fifth bolt, climb the overhang by moving L and using a large hole. Gavin Jensen, Aug/88.
Leaky Leg Bag 35m 18 Poorly protected but easy climbing leads to a tree at about 10m. Climb the elegant dihedral above the tree. The finish is harder than it looks. Peter Steane, May/88.
Via Ferrata 30m 23 Þ This route starts by wandering up the face R of Leaky Leg bag. Follow the bolts up the arête R of Leaky Leg bag. Sustained and pleasant. There are six bolts in total. Roger Parkyn, Nov/89.
Oodles of Noodles 30m 24 Þ Go up Via Ferrata to the fourth bolt. Instead of going L continue up to the pocky wall R of Via Ferrata. Follow the line of 3 bolts with fixed hangers (the last is hard to clip). The crux is dynoing to a pocket before traversing into Via Ferrata to finish. Evan Peacock, 1992.
Actus Reus 30m 20 Þ The climb begins 30m R of Leaky Leg bag. Scramble to the ledge at 5m then climb the diagonal finger crack which leads to a ledge. Climb past a bolt to another ledge. From here move up to clip the second (and final) bolt. From this bolt traverse R to the base of a groove which leads to the top. Gavin Jensen, May/88.
Biggus Dickus 30m 17 Start near where Actus Reus starts but climb the large overhanging crack. Gavin Jensen, May/88.
The Rock Police 15m 24 Þ Start just L of Electric Mischief. Stick clip the first bolt then ape through the roof, to the same belay as Electric Mischief. Evan Peacock, Oct/92.
Electric Mischief 15m 21 Þ Stick clip the bolt (fixed hanger). Crank the roof then follow three more bolts to the rap chain. Stefan Eberhard, Jun/92.
Plumb It 30m 21 Take the steep grunty start up dark rock about 20m right of Actus Reus. Continue through the grey wall via a finger crack, which leads to a ledge. Go L then up the face, L of a corner, to the top. Doug Fife, May/88.
Sticky Business 30m 25 Þ Follow those big juicy eye-bolts up the red overhanging wall. Stefan Eberhard, Sep/93.
Pump Dummy 30m 23 The start which is quite tricky goes up the dihedral 6m R of Plumb It. The best way to protect the start is to lean a log against the cliff and climb up it to place some friends. The corner leads to a ledge at about 5m. Move slightly R and climb the steep wall above, passing a single, hangered, bolt (crux). This is an excellent climb, but is marred by an unclean finish on the final bulge above the crux. Doug Fife, Aug/88.
No U-Turns 15m 19/22 Start up an easy corner 10m right of Pump Dummy near a fallen eucalyptus. From the ledge reach R to clip a bolt then follow the overhanging blocky wall past a second bolt. Take some gear for the crack that follows this. The original climb finished via a lichenous L leading ramp. Punters now have the choice of rapping off the U-anchor or continuing through with the direct finish. Al Adams Oct/92. Direct finish Roger Parkyn, Sep/93.
Rhino Eyes 15m 22 Steamy and sustained climbing up the yellow wall L of Gratuitous. Three bolts. From the first bolt climb up and into the corner, where the second bolt can be clipped. Some wires and cammers are required at the top. Rolan Eberhard, Aug/93.
Gratuitous Steel Insertion 12m 18 Þ Well protected, steep and classy climbing. This climb is deservedly popular (and I'm not biased either). Five bolts protect the route, you might want to use a wire between bolts 4 and 5. Start beside a thin straight gum tree. Roger Parkyn, Jul/90.
Crag Rats 12m 17 Take the overhang just R of Gratuitous Steel Insertion then climb the crack to a large ledge. Vera Wong, Feb/91.
Little Creatures 10m 19 Starts a further 10m R of Crag Rats. A hard overhanging start at the bottom is protected by a bolt. A crack then leads to a ledge. Vera Wong, Feb/91.
Timbertop 15m 17 Start up the loose sandy cave. The crux is pulling through the overhang at the top of the cave. Finish easily up the cracks above. Stephen Bunton, Oct/89.
Underhanded 15m 24 Þ Two bolts several meters L of Touchstone lead through the overhang and onto the slab above. The crux is getting established on the slab and appears contrived as it is quite a bit easier than 24 if you use holds near Touchstone. Whichever method you use, it is still a good climb. Gavin Jensen, May/88.
Touchstone 15m 19 A very popular route, this climb follows the prominent hand crack a meter or two L of the arête of the buttress. An overhang at about 6m slows most people down a bit. Doug Fife, Apr/88.
This is My Kitchen 15m 22 Start in the corner crack then follow the arête. Three bolts and some natural gear. Vera Wong, Aug/92.
The Dog Killed the Video Star 12m 21 Þ This is the smooth looking slab right of the arête R of Touchstone. There is a hard move passing the first bolt, and the second bolt is hard for short people to clip. This climb is pleasant enough but it displays some characteristics to avoid when placing bolts: protuberant bolts, awkward clips and bolts placed not really where they are needed. Evan Peacock, Oct/89.
Mojo's Mistake 13m 8 Go straight up on large holds, starting just L of the big gully/dihedral. No pro. Evan Peacock, Oct/89.
Another Bloody Bodum Beaker Broken 15m 25 This is the original on the overhanging wall. Use the crack to the L of Mentzal (requires natural gear). Evan Peacock.
Mentzal as Anything 15m 24 Only a one metre variant on Evan's route but it has created a quite different route. Simon Mentz, 1992.
Melon Dreaming 15m 28 Þ The right-hand line of bolts on the overhang wall, finishing onto the arête. (Grade 26 with alternative start). Evan Peacock.
Bang Goes the Budgie 15m 23 Þ A hard cranky start goes up the overhang at the bottom of the arête on the R of the major overhanging wall. Clip the bolt R of the arête before you get going. Climb to the R side of the arête then continue straight up. Evan Peacock, Oct 89.
Farmer Henry 15m 13 The next lump of rock R of Budgie. Start up a fist crack and then follow a flake system curving leftwards. Step around the arête to a ledge then continue up to a tree. A bit loose. Hanut Dodd, May/88.
