Blog from March, 2007

Simon Parsons has completed one of the most compelling projects in Tasmania - linking and straightening out the two pitches of Pleasant Screams. The completed climb goes at 29.

According to Simon:

Pleasant Screams Direct 29 50m by Simon Parsons, 18/03/07

The original Pleasant Screams by Sam Edwards was done as 2 pitches. The second pitch was done by first starting up After Midnight and stepping right to a 2 bolt hanging belay at 20m. On the second pitch, originally graded 26, at 2/3 height he moved right into Brown Madonna and made some moves up this before returning to the line.

The Direct version starts up the true first pitch (grade 25) and is a single mega pitch to the top.

There is a reasonable rest after the first pitch's crux on a large foot hold and some hand jams about 2 bolts below the original hanging belay anchors. From here, once you cannot stand hanging around any longer, just keep to the line of bolts. No deviating out left towards After Midnight (tempting at the hard move to reach a crimper match at bolt 13 - this move is much harder for people < 6 feet tall). At bolt 17-18 the line comes close to Brown Madonna, but you must stay on the face and not move further right to jugs and rests in Brown Madonna.

This is the Serpentine of Tasmania and is truly amazing.

No move is harder than grade 27, but there are several very technical hard sections with side pull rests between and it is sooooo looong.

Cheers

Simon

No, this isn't an attempt to restart the damaging discord that existed about 10 - 15 years ago.  Quite the opposite, in fact.  It seems that this forum is the ideal venue for people to explore aspects of bolting and differences of opinion in a calm and respectful way towards one another.  I suggest that if you are unable to do so it may be better to refrain from making any comment at all.  It would also be good if people who do want to have a say are prepared to log in before commenting, otherwise the validity of your comment comes into question.

First up, plaudits to some of Tassie's early bolters.  Examples include Danny Ng up north, who showed creative vision with the many little gems in the Gorge he opened.  Another example is Phil Cullen's beautiful No Tern Unstoned on White Water Wall.  When Roger Parkyn came to Tassie, it took a while for many of the locals - myself included - to come to terms with his vision, but few would now doubt that Roger's imagination, energy and determination have led to  an incredible enrichment of  the  Tasmanian climbing scene, particularly on the Organ Pipes, which now has a fantastic balance of trad and sport routes.  He has also done some brilliant things on the sea cliffs of the Tasman Peninsula.  And he's still doing it: good on you, Roger!  Mick Fox has also been a spearhead for opening new routes with some great vision (his beautiful lines at Lost Falls show that he is one who is happy to establish routes of beauty for we of more modest ability) and, I believe, his placement of rap anchors in the Gorge have been great for access and reducing erosion.

The establishment of Tassie's most popular sport crag, Hillwood, is largely due to Gerry's energy and enthusiasm.  There are quite a few others who are making prolific contributions today and our climbing scene is the richer for it.

Does all this mean that all that is happening on the bolting front is hunky-dory?  I'd suggest not.  Anyone who placed lots of bolts and has the capacity for self-reflection would, I hope, be able to identify something they may have done differently down the track, if for no other reason, in bolting like other aspects of climbing (and life!) there is a learning curve.

Earlier I referred to Phil Cullen's route at White Water Wall.  The route opening was a great addition to this crag.  It's location wasn't, being too high for the average climber to reach from the stance below.  Other bolts that appeared subsequently could have been better placed too.

Recently two U-bolts were placed at the top of Light-fingered Maddison, apparently to facilitate top-roping.  This has been the topic of much discussion.  If you know the area, please comment.