Simon Parsons has completed one of the most compelling projects in Tasmania - linking and straightening out the two pitches of Pleasant Screams. The completed climb goes at 29.

According to Simon:

Pleasant Screams Direct 29 50m by Simon Parsons, 18/03/07

The original Pleasant Screams by Sam Edwards was done as 2 pitches. The second pitch was done by first starting up After Midnight and stepping right to a 2 bolt hanging belay at 20m. On the second pitch, originally graded 26, at 2/3 height he moved right into Brown Madonna and made some moves up this before returning to the line.

The Direct version starts up the true first pitch (grade 25) and is a single mega pitch to the top.

There is a reasonable rest after the first pitch's crux on a large foot hold and some hand jams about 2 bolts below the original hanging belay anchors. From here, once you cannot stand hanging around any longer, just keep to the line of bolts. No deviating out left towards After Midnight (tempting at the hard move to reach a crimper match at bolt 13 - this move is much harder for people < 6 feet tall). At bolt 17-18 the line comes close to Brown Madonna, but you must stay on the face and not move further right to jugs and rests in Brown Madonna.

This is the Serpentine of Tasmania and is truly amazing.

No move is harder than grade 27, but there are several very technical hard sections with side pull rests between and it is sooooo looong.

Cheers

Simon

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3 Comments

  1. Doug Bruce

    That is bloody brilliant!  (thumbs up) This really puts the Organ Pipes on the map for climbers coming to Tassie to do the Tote as part of their "World Tour".  Nice one, Simon.  Not bad for an old fart! (big grin)
    Cheers,
    Doug

  2. Anonymous

    Actually from what I've read pleasant screams will become the premier reason to visit tas, I assume the rock police will be removing all illegal bolts from routes that occur in national parks, including the totem pole?

    Or is it OK for "illegal" fixed gear to exist in some places but not in others?  Parks don't really care, but will be forced to act if they are pointed out.  Incidently it is somewhat errant to pretend that bolts will be removed from places (especially rap bolts) for the "coomon good" or for conservation reasons.  Parks state that "fixed installations" (which would include left sling belays, pitons, any gear left behind) is illegal, because they are fearful of litigation, it has NOTHING to do with conservation.

  3. Anonymous

    Pleasant Screams and After Midnight  are of course chip-ups

     Have a good look at the photos in Rock to see the extent of the ' necessary cleaning ' that sam did in the 90's

     There was no need to smash the f### out of the unique dolerite surface, using hammers