Blog

Hi All,

I am moving to Hobart in a couple of months and have been trying to find out a little more about climbing in the area. I was gutted to hear that the Uni climbing gym closed recently, AND the Edge gym is also closed! Are there any indoor climbing gyms in Hobart at the moment? Is the Uni climbing gym considering re-opening? I have my fingers crossed!

Claire

Due to popular demand, and Al & Tony finally giving in, I re-ordered The Organ Pipes guide last night to be L to R.

Note that the old R to L version is still available for the time being at Mt Wellington Guide 2007 however this will no longer be maintained.

I did the first bit using a script then have done a first pass at fixing stuff that was wrong.

It now needs thorough proof reading to pick up all the broken stuff, eg out of order text and climbs or stuff that doesn't read correctly any more.

Please post anything you pick up here and I will fix it.

I'm not going to open up editing access to all (yet) as the next bit of editing and fixing needs to be controlled or we will end up with a mess. However I would very much appreciate proof reading and corrections posted here by anybody who has the time and effort, and I will make the corrections.

Hopefully in the next few month's you'll see a bunch of new photo topos.

We'll then make further changes to the organisation of the guide if the new formalised tracks and signage go in so that the guide pages match the new access tracks.

I came across this video from DMM on Chockstone and thought it was pretty salutory. Worth a look I reckon if you want your ropes to last.

Cheers

Doug

Hi All, I have a project near Deloraine - its called Flinty Rock. Its a large glacial erratic approx 200m long and 40m high. There are maybe 10-15 climbs on it of varying grades. Wondering if anyone is interested in spending a day on it with me. Will be working out anchors, rappelling down the face and hopefully doing some climbing. I am hoping to get onto it this weekend if weather permits. Let me know if interested. Thanks. : )

See links below for topos and descriptions of latest new routes at Fingal ad Ben Lomond

http://climbnortherntasmania.wordpress.com/2012/02/26/ballbreaker-hardest-multi-pitch-on-ben-lomond/

http://climbnortherntasmania.wordpress.com/2012/02/26/another-28-at-fingal-updated-topo/

hows this for an idea, much like like the new routes thread, how about we have a thread for all the things we lose and discover as we go about our climbing business?

ill make a start with a camera we found on the track up to rysavy ridge. think it was a bit damp and not sure if it still works but perhaps theres some photos on it? havent had a chance to look at it yet.

For anyone who doesn't regularly visit Chockstone, you might like this beautiful little video recently produced by Simon Carter.

On Bended Knees                    45m   16

The upper wall of Flange Buttress. An alternative finish to Fiddlesticks or Bert’s Fear.

From the Brown Madonna rap station, at the top of Fiddlesticks, climb L and up the broken slabs and corner, as for Bert’s Fear, to a hand crack splitting the steepening wall,Bert’s Fear heads R here into the corner-chimney line.

Jam up the hand crack and when it runs out traverse L to the finger crack just R of the nose. Up the finger crack to a large ledge and surmount the piled blocks to another ledge.

Traverse up and right for 3m across the chimney to two U bolts beckoning an abseil. (Top access to Pleasant Screams).

For the true direttissimo, however, climb through the bushes, through and over more blocks a further 10m to the top of the Column. Reverse back down to the bolts to abseil.

P. Robinson, T. McKenny, 10/2/12

Just returned from a climbing trip, valle di mello, arco and kalymnos and moved to hobart

Very keen to climb some stuff before Uni starts on the 27th feb. Cape huay, freycinet, pipes, ben lomond, frenchman's. i'm up for anything!

0416816183

simon

Popped out for a quick climb at Punchbown Reserve in launceston recently, We live nearby and have climbed there a couple of times now. 

I have noticed that someone has put in some bolts on a couple of climbs and was wondering if anyone had done any documenting of them? Being a bit on the new side, i would be keen to know how hard they are and what sort or quality they are.

im sure i will head back sometime soon, i will grab some pics.

cheers

 A new route at Arthur's Circus.

 Double Trouble or Triple Treat                 37m       17

The pillar at the N end of Arthur’s Circus.    A traverse, a wall and cracks with a few perched blocks on the way. Trad.

Start as for Polymorpha; abseil in to a block at the bottom of the corner.

Climb 4m up the left edge of the wall to gain a hand traverse sans footholds. Place some gear and head right without hesitation for 3-4m to the nose.

Steeply up the nose until one can move to easier ground. Belaying to a tree here will avoid rope drag.

Climb gently over two large stacked blocks just right of the nose to hand cracks.

Move carefully past a loose flake above these to the top of the pillar joining Polymorpha for the last few metres.

Phil Robinson, Claire Hewer, Kim Robinson      Jan. 2012

Claire on “Double Trouble or Triple Treat”  :- 

Hey there, putting the feelers out to see if there are any climbers around the Tullah/Zeehan//Rosebery area. Pretty long shot since everyone about these parts seems to be more into prying abalone off rocks rather than clinging onto rocks themselves, but if you exist contact me! 0439771484. I'm pretty keen to second any counts up to about 19/20, lead a few easy ones but only have a harness/shoes/belay device and slowly decaying strength. I'm very keen to go climbing again soon.....

Is anyone else having trouble with the climb search function?

Unexpected error running script

Error informationorg.xml.sax.SAXParseException: An invalid XML character (Unicode: 0x1f) was found in the element content of the document.

And then some more...

So i've been a bit of a criple lattery & have had some time to do some new topos.

Thanks to Garry, Simon & Alex for all there help (I have no idea where half the lines went)

Thesarvo is amzing in my opionion, a single place for climbing information in tassie.

Jon has done a lot of work to get it where it is today and now it is something that can continue to grow with everyones help.

Unlike an old style guide book which are printed and outdated before you get a copy thesarvo doesn't rely on a select few people to keep it going. Everyone/Anyone can help. That is why i think its the way of the furture.

It has been built up over the years by multi people some more than others but every little bit has helped, It's been awesome to help out a bit :)

The way the topos work is great.

They are all done in Adobe Illistrator as PFD files so that if a route is wrong or a new route is added anyone can download the PDF, move the lines without affecting the image, fix it and re-uploaded.

The lengend that has the climb name, grade and stars is linked to the climb information so that if something was wrong spelt wrong or a grade is change it is automatically updated in the topo.

If you are climbing at an area which hasn't got a topo, take a photo, email it too me (jedparkes(at)hotmail.com) then i can add it, then the next guide book (& iPhone app) will be even better :)

Or if you would like to make your own let me know. I can teach you in about an hour.

OK thats my rant :)

Heres the new ones

You can see them all in these areas

The Paradio (Mt Brown) http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Mount+Brown

The Boneyard (Fingal) http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Bare+Rock

I need someone to do some surveying on my property and figure I might as well give the work to a climber ... can anyone help me?