Blog from May, 2010

An update to the 2008 Ben Lomond Guidebook is now available through Open Spaces Publishing website at http://ospupdates.wordpress.com/
There have been 28 new routes done on the Ben since the guide came out, many of them significant multipitch climbs. The update has colour topos and is indexed to the original guide. People are welcome to download the PDF for free and use in conjunction with Memory of A Journey.

For Sale:

Telemark Gear

*Scarpa T2 boots size 9 1/2

*Morotto skis 180 cm

*Riva cable bindings

*Voile release plates

*televates (heel lifters for climbing)

*adjustable poles

*Salomon boot bag

All in excellent condition.Quick sale: $200 - must collect from me in Hobart

Phone Doug Bruce: (03) 6231 0284 or email: dougandi@netspace.net.au

Must sell before Thursday 3rd June

This is my first post so a big hello to everyone.  I have a question.  I would like to do some rock climbing and I was wondering if anyone knows of a "beginners" group on the North West Coast.  I live in Penguin and am happy to travel.  I have a mountaineering course in NZ in Feb next year so I would love to get some hands on experience with outdoor rock climbing and rope work.  Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. 

so sometime late last year the tope-rope problem(written up in craglets) that exists on harlequin buttress between beamans direct and harlequin had bolts added(hangers) to make the route possible as a lead route. basically im looking for some discussion as to what others opinions are about these. i am well keen to get rid of these hanger. of course id return them to the person who put them there. basically i think having big hangers all over a buttress that has been climbed on heaps before lessens the over-all quality of the area. note: the rap bolts above harlequin an now above beamans dont fall in the same catergory. i hope its only our northern friends that cant distinguish between lead bolts and abseil bolts. also i dont think every piece of rock needs to be lead, it was a fine TR problem that does wonders for slab climbing techniques but having it as a lead route doesnt add anything to the area. again big bits of steel dont make that place any better.

with some of the recent developments (light fingered maddison bolts) and now these ones makes me scared as to where that path can lead. i know ive placed as many bolts as the rest of them, but ill always be open to critique if anyone has any.

i'll be heading back that way soon and im keen to get some opinions from everyone as to what what everyone else thinks. i know i speak for many when i say the hangers should be removed. i think we've had enough done for the greater good without discussion so im not going to do anything without consultation.

discuss...

simon young