Blog from January, 2007

The climbing festival at Easter has some huge comps running with some awesome prizes.  $5000 in prizes for photography.  $1000 in prizes for short stories (fiction and non-fiction), and $1000 worth of prizes for films.  We have had requests to extend our dates, so checkout the new deadlines below and go to http://www.climbingfestival.com.au/events.html to download an entry form and get involved. 
FILMS by February 11^th
STORIES by February 11^th
PHOTOS by February 6^th
 Thanks Adam Donoghue (Festival Organiser)

On a recent ascent of Fionn McCool at Fingal, my second had to leave behind a #8 Super Rock on a green sling. This piece has sentimental value, especially for the person who couldn't get it out at the time.  It's about half way along the rising traverse on the third pitch.
I am offering a very modest reward: $15 or a six pack of Boag's Premium.  It's your choice: you can either slake your thirst after doing this great route or partially refill your petrol tank.
Cheers,
Doug

hi just wanted to no if anyone has seen gear that was hanging on pleasent screams (orang pipes Tassie), about 15 draws have gone missing. they were on for a bit, but due to a injury i was not able to get my draws off.
there is a beer reward!!!!!
cheers jake bresnehan.

The Organ Pipes guide is coming along and we are looking for images of climbers on the mountain, particulary new images on the pipes. If you want to donate a photo/image contact dave dot humphries at dytech dot com dot au, Tony Mckenny or Al Adams.

HOT ROCK CLIMBING EXPEDITIONS

Take a big red specially converted climbing expedition vehicle with a 13 foot bouldering wall on the back.

Add 20-35 climbers from all over the world and head off around the globe developing new rock climbing areas and stopping at the best of the established ones. That's Hot Rock.

Other than existing guidebooks and our own bulging new routes book, we use climbing contacts and other local knowledge wherever we go to find and develop the very best crags.

Grade is less important than attitude. Are you up for adventurous, unguided climbing and exploring, across the remotest corners of the globe? On past trips we've put up new routes from Diff to E6 (5.2 - 5.13), and (according to local ethics) bolted from f5a to f8a. Routes range from single pitch to 1800m big walls. We've found lost prison mountains and discovered the DWS potential of lakes and cliffs around the globe. And because you can't always get Hot Rock - there's alpine kit on board for those new routes or big ticks above the snowline too.

You can join the truck from just £370 (about AU$930) and for periods of time ranging from 3 weeks to 2 years.

Take a tour of http://www.climbhotrock.com to read accounts and see photos from climbing areas in over 50 countries.

And you can have a look at our upcoming expeditions too...

Africa '07: Nairobi to Cape Town

Trans Africa 07-08: Cape Town to Istanbul

The Silk Route 08-09: Istanbul to Singapore

Phone me on +44 (0)7812 086 099 for a dossier of what to expect on the forthcoming trips or just go to http://www.climbhotrock.com for all the info.

cheers!
Dunc

Here are some random recent photos for your enjoyment:

Al Williams trying a project (27ish), Teardrop Gully, Organ Pipes	Al Williams trying a project (27ish), Teardrop Gully, Organ Pipes	Eloise Bradley on If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie	Eloise Bradley on If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie
Aubrey on the FA of If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie	Aubrey on the FA of If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie	Aubrey on the FA of If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie	Aubrey on the FA of If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie
Aubrey on the FA of If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie	The Crystal, V5, Elderslie	The Organ Pipes from the air	Aubrey on the FA of If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie
Aubrey on the FA of If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie	Aubrey on the FA of If Six Were Nine, V6, Elderslie	The Organ Pipes from the air	Candlestick and Totem Pole from the air
Candlestick and Totem Pole from the air	Candlestick and Totem Pole from the air	The Organ Pipes from the air

Apologies for the site being down for the last couple of weeks, the hosting provider tripped over a power cord or something (again).

There was a bit of activity in the bouldering scene during spring. Dave Humpries and Jon Nermut found a good new area out at Elderslie. Heathy Gully has more than a dozen free standing boulders, on OK sandstone, with a 10 minute walk from the car. The best thing about it is that it's on Crown land, unlike the existing Elderslie areas which are private, and have big access issues. There have been 25 problems done so far, the best being If Six Were Nine (V6) by Aubrey Carter, which had several quick repeats and confirmation of its quality. There is potential for about 30 more problems, but they will have to wait until it cools down a bit, as it is a quite warm area.

Dave Humphries and Jon Nermut have also been taking advantage of the very dry conditions on Mt Wellington with new problems at the Springs, Sphinx Rock, and the Panorama Track.

At Bicheno Glen Henderson and Aubrey have been working on a new area with some impressive lines. Glen has done a V9 roof problem, but the best line, an impressive prow, has yet to be completed. Aubrey and Glen also put up a new problem at Oatlands, up the arete above Body and Mind, at V8.

In sport climbing world, Jake Bresenhan completed a project at the Star Factory to produce Wizard of Oz, Tasmania's equal hardest route at grade 32. Garry Phillps also repeated The Tooth Fairy - the other 32 at the Star Factory.
Simon Young also climbed several new routes at the Star Factory in the second half of the year, including Red Hill Town (26), Cheese Supreme (25) and The Gonzo (22). He also added 2 routes on Tetragrammaton Buttress - Return to Cookie Mountain (23) and Wild Shindigs (20).

Rumour has it that Jake and Gary Phillips are working on some new routes at Lake Huntley - no doubt they will be impressive.