There has been extensive email discussion among a number of people regarding matters arising from the new route Epitome - this discussion appeared briefly here but has now been removed. It was probably too lengthy for anyone, except perhaps Dave James,  to be insane enough to read it all anyway and ultimately some contributors to the group emails  decided they did’t want this discussion posted online after-all as had been originally planned. So now, I include only the key issue as a reference, and an interesting contrast to the current discussions around style on the southern escarpments of the Ben.  

Subject: "Epitome: Be warned that we didn’t clean much of the loose rock off. Many loose bits were used carefully in run-nout situations- it seemed to me to be part of the character of the climb. I love the diversity of climbing available on the pipes!"
This small comment has lead to a bizarre number of emails/ phone calls/personal discussions objecting to me (and Adam) putting up a (semi) dangerous climb in ground up style on the pipes. Someone has threatened to go up and completely change the nature of climb. Amazing!
There is ample precedent for this style on the pipes; climbing with spaced protection on loose rock is a legitimate activity according to my reading of the local history. You could spend a life time cleaning rock off some sections of the pipes and then go back and start again. Of course I clean stuff off like everyone else on most climbs... but I am amazed that people have taken exception to a climb done in the definitive minimal impact style. Of course I don’t pretend to have any say in directing others in how they are to behave, but do I ask people to respect their fellow climbers entitlement to continue to engage in a diverse array of climbing styles on the pipes  - this diversity is something I suggest we should hang onto rather than suppress. Not all new routes have to be safe, bolted, popular, or inline with any particular persons views.... even if they are a guidebook editor. 
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  1. dave james

    i'm of the opinion that these types of online arguments are thoroughly entertaining. As a result i now make this clear to everybody so that subsequent presentatiuons will result in an email notificationin my inbox. thankyou and thankyou internet.