Turrakana - Tasman Peninsula

Introduction to the Peninsula

Turrakana / Tasman Peninsula is home to an absolute plethora of climbing. Most notably, the peninsula is home to the world famous sea pillar of the Totem Pole, the tallest (300 m) sea cliffs in Australia at Cape Pillar, as well as a host of other incredible sea cliffs and stacks. The peninsula has a complete abundance of dolerite which is the primary rock type climbed-on here. Sedimentary rocks of sandstone and siltstone are also abundant, but are usually complete choss. The climbing on the dolerite sea cliffs here is quite different from the alpine dolerite found in inland areas of the State. Whilst soaring splitter cracks are still common as is found inland, areas affected by the roaring swells common in the area often form unique and interesting features, similar to the granite found on the East Coast at Freycinet.

Access

South of the canal at Dunalley marks the beginning of the Peninsula proper, though most of the accessible climbing is South of Eaglehawk Neck ~1.5 hours drive from Hobart.

Safety

The rock quality on the Peninsula varies from superb to complete death choss - sometimes all within the same pitch! Wearing a helmet whilst climbing here is strongly recommended, and serious consideration should be given to the often remote and exposed nature of climbing here. Loose rock, swell affected belay ledges and the inability for easy and quick rescue is common. The grades do not reflect the serious nature of climbing here - so be prepared for all situations. There have been a number of serious rescues in the post 2019 era due to parties' lack of planning and skill in self-rescue.

Camping

Great camping and facilities exist at the serene Fortescue Bay, within the National Park. Summer is busy here so ring ahead to book a camp-site (about $10 a night). There are other campsites and hotels scattered amongst the place, but Fortescue is probably your closest and best bet.

Guide

Despite sea cliffs wrapping around much of the coastline, the climbing is focused around the major capes and bays, and this is how the guide has been split-up. Individual access is described in each individual section.

Fortescue Bay / Cape Hauy - Home to the triptych of classic trio of sea spires as well as a host of cragging options.
Mt. Brown - Home to some of the States best sport climbing at the Paradiso, as well as adventurous sport and trad lines on the main face and surrounds itself.
Cape Pillar - overnight walk-in, extreme adventure trad.
Cape Raoul - Home to adventurous trad and the best 22 sport climb in the known universe (Pole Dancer).

Online Guides

Season

Most of the climbing on the Peninsula depends on swell size more than anything. Generally the swell is bigger in winter, but there is nothing south between the Totem Pole and Antarctica, so big swells are possible (and even likely) all times of the year. The Totem Pole is a deep, shady, chasm and only gets sunlight for a couple of hours a day, so the summer months are best for an attempt (December to March).

Rest Days

There are some great coastal walks on the Peninsula that take in some spectacular scenery. Cape Raoul and Cape Pillar are great, and the walk out to Cape Hauy to contemplate the singularity of the Totem Pole is a must even if you don't plan on attempting the thing. There are also some funky caves and other natural features that don't require walking, including Tasman Arch, Remarkable Cave, and the Tessalated Pavement at Eaglehawk Neck. The Port Arthur historic site is a grim reminder of Tasmania's history as the penal colony of Van Dieman's Land and is worth a look.

Popular Routes

15 - Dauntless, Smooth Sailing

16 - The Normal Route (Candslestick), Salt Flakes

17 - Inferno, The Pud Life

18 - Sacred Site (Moai), The Corner Route (Candlestick), Swallowing Tommys Nuts

19 - Aftershock, Starfish Arete

20 - Peg Leg, Brown Eye, Geronimo, Zodiac

21 - Shockwave, Mans Machine, Disaster Master-Pole Axed Linkup

22 - Pole Dancer, Too Tall Oxen, Psycho-Man, Blunt Instrument / Burning Spear, The Salty Swine

23 - I've Heard It All Before, Thriller, Rum on the Rocks

24 - Talk is Cheap, Offender of the Faith, The Golden Pillar, The Devil and the Deep Blue Sea

25 - The Totem Pole (Free Route), Sultan of Sweat

26 - The Edge of Reason

27+ - Déjà Vu (28), The Totem Pole (The Sorcerer), Expendable Youth

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