I climbed a really nice hand crack on the Shady Side of Avalanche Couloir a few months ago. I couldn't really find it in the guide. The only description that loosely resembles the route I climbed is Celecia. Has anyone done Celecia recently or at all? Can anyone confirm if the route in the image below is Celecia? If it is, I reckon the description is due for an update, cause its a great route!
It must be Celecia, though I haven’t been there for a very long time. We did it in Feb. 1981 and gave it a star (now removed in the guide and the description changed, nothing to do with me or Kim B. ), the only nice looking crack line up there.
Here is the original description we gave in the 1981 guidebook:-
Celecia * 25m grade 18
Start Approx. 2/3 of the way up Avalanche Couloir on the right, a wall split by a thin crack widening slightly at the top.
(1) 25m Pleasant climbing with a strenuous finish. Scramble off to the right.
Kim Bischoff, Phil Robinson (Feb.1981)
Feel free to change the present description on thesarvo which will put people off climbing it. Has the loose rock gone? Jon or I could change it. But you have the latest opinion.
Was it 18? We seemed to have undergraded Triclinicity at the time and had it as 16, that was upgraded to 18 a while back and now 19? Though doubt it is as hard as that.
Zach Sonstegaard AUTHOR
I appreciate the info. The original description is nice and simple, seems more suitable. There is a little bit of loose rock to navigate in the first 2-3m as you get into the little alcove at the bottom, but otherwise it seemed like pretty clean and pure crack climbing. Pleasant climbing with a steep strenuous hand crack to finish. Definitely worth a star or two in my opinion. It's probably about 18. Maybe 19, but not harder than that.
I'm happy to update the description if you don't mind? I might add the photo to the page too, so people can find it, thoughts?
Please go ahead Zach, it will be great to see people climbing it again. Phil