Should I add a bolt to Free Passage (22) in Cataract Gorge? I seem to recall in the 80's that there was a pretty good piece of gear on the bottom face of Free Passage at Offal buttress. BUt it looks like some rock has fallen out of the route in recent years and the gear is now very marginal or total rubbish. I don't think a trad route should ever be retrobolted, but in this case I'm tempted, seeing the original climb has been altered through broken rock (which might mean that the original gear was shit anyway). The first 5m is essentially a solo now; I've led it years ago but I'm not game to lead it now - what would people think of a bolt? Has anyone led it recently and found decent gear?

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3 Comments

  1. Ben Thorp

    Thanks for making this post Gerry and giving people the opportunity to comment.  I would agree that trad routes should not be retrobolted.  An exception could be made when:

    1. There is a broad consensus in the local climbing community that it should be done.
    2. The first ascentionist is ok with it.

    It will be interesting to see what other people think.  Looking forward to a friendly debate on this one. 

    NB. Have you considered protecting the start by using bouldering pads?  This is what they do on the Gritstone in the Uk and you can climb up to 4-4.5 metres quite safely with multiple pads and a good spotter.

  2. Gerry Narkowicz AUTHOR

    Seems a couple of local guys have led it recently and apparently there is a marginal #3 cam and a pretty good RP. So it will remain a trad route, despite the original route and available gear being modified through a bit of rockfall. I haven't led it for over 20 years so seems like I'll have to harden up and go off the RP

  3. Simon Young

    i think keeping it a trad route is a good idea. Theres a lot of safe, bolted climbing in that grade range so having something a bit more spicy helps keep some variety!