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<guide guidestars="**" pagesize="200">
<header id="304" name="Bicheno" walk="5-10 mins" sun="Mostly morning" rock="Granite - Slab to Overhung" intro="The bouldering in Bicheno is located on coastal boulders. The boulders can be found at the Blowhole and run north for 300m to a large block with more at Peggys Point. The problems here, although limited in extent, are some of the best in the state. The rock is funky granite that is quite different from the rock at Coles Bay. Generally the rock is clean, except for barnacles. The majority of problems depend on a low tide and swell. See the Mercury or http://www.ntf.flinders.edu.au/TEXT/TIDES/TIDES/tas.html for tide predictions. The weather in winter here is amongst the best in the state, with lots of warm sunny days, which makes Bicheno a good escape from Hobart. In summer you've got the sea right next to the bouldering to cool off in. " access="Bicheno is on the east coast of Tasmania, about 2 and a half hours from Hobart or Launceston. It is about 35 minutes drive north of Coles Bay." camping="There are plenty of campgrounds, motels, shops and takeaways in town. "/>
<image src="bichenomap.jpg" width="800" id="4" height="748"/>
<gps new="true" id="5">
<point code="BIC000" description="Bicheno - The Block" easting="608706" height="0" northing="5363100" zone="55G" latitude="-41.87655" longitude="148.31005" pid="0"/>
</gps>
<text class="heading2" id="6">The Blowhole Area</text>
<text class="text" id="7">There are some great problems on the freestanding boulders and walls around the blowhole. Follow the signs off the main road to get to the the parking area for the Blowhole, then walk 50m out to the obvious block.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="8">Blowhole Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="9">There have been a few problems done here on the boulder next to the Blowhole.</text>
<image src="Bichenoblow1.jpg" id="10" height="275"/>
<problem extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number=" " stars=" " id="11">Some easier lines have been done on the slabby side of the boulder</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="12"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8" name="Blow Job" number="2." stars="***" id="13">Sit start on small crimps up slightly overhanging face. Excellent problem</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="14"/>
<text class="heading3" id="15">Whale Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="16">This is the south facing wall about 40m south of the Blowhole.</text>
<image id="329" src="Bicheno Whale boulder.jpg" height="383" width="800" legend="true" legendx="8" legendy="285">
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<legend>
<climb>18</climb>
<climb>19</climb>
<climb>20</climb>
<climb>328</climb>
<climb>21</climb>
<climb>22</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Sperm Whale" number="1." stars="*" id="18">Sitstart on low hold hit arete and up</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V10?" name=" " number="1a." stars="*" id="19">Project. Same start as no 1, blast high and right then up.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2/3" name="Minke Whale" number="2." stars="*" id="20">Flakes</problem>
<climb id="328" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="3" name="NarWhale" length="" grade="v1" fa="">Undercling and up</climb>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Blue Whale" number="4" stars="*" id="21" length="" fa="">Flakes to high topout. SDS is project</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Humpback Arete" number="5." stars="**" id="22" length="" fa="">Classic steep arete to slopey topout</problem>
<text id="318" class="heading3">Old Man Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="23">This block is directly across from the Whale boulder:</text>
<image src="Bichenoblow10.jpg" id="24" height="189"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="25">Sitstart at flake and up groove</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="26">Just left of arete, pull up through pockets.</problem>
<text class="text" id="27">On the back of the same block:</text>
<image src="Bichenoblow11.jpg" id="28" height="328"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="29">Up nice flake/crack</problem>
<text id="319" class="heading3">Warm Up Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="30">Across from the previous problem:</text>
<image id="325" src="Bicheno - Warmup Boulder.jpg" height="342" legend="true" legendx="3" legendy="-1" width="600" legendTitle="" legendFooter="">
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<legend>
<climb/>
<climb>32</climb>
<climb>33</climb>
<climb>34</climb>
<climb>320</climb>
<climb>321</climb>
<climb>322</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name=" Juggy Face" number="1." stars="" id="32" length="" fa="">Up juggy face</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name=" Quartz Jugs " number="2." stars="" id="33" length="" fa="">Up quartz jugs</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name=" Quartz Arete" number="3." stars="*" id="34" length="" fa="">Up steep quartz arete</problem>
<climb id="320" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="4" name="Buldge" length="" grade="v0" fa="">Layback off the buldge, pull up through the ridge.</climb>
<climb id="321" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="5" name="Layback" length="" grade="v0" fa="">Layback on the crack.</climb>
<climb id="322" stars="*" extra="SDS" number="6" name="Arete" length="" grade="v1" fa="">One handed start off the round arête hold, up through jugs. Can be campused for an extra grade.</climb>
<climb id="323" stars="*" extra="SDS" number="7" name="Ironing Board" length="" grade="v2" fa="">Starts on the large horizontal overhanging flake. Start hanging underneath, work your way around and up to top out.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="35">Blowhole Walls</text>
<text class="text" id="36">There are some great vertical and slightly overhanging square cut walls below and immediately to the south of the Blowhole. Most of these problems depend on a low tide and swell.</text>
<image new="false" number="null." src="BackOfWhaleSmallArrows.jpg" width="" id="37" height="245">null</image>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="" id="38">Style up the right side of the arete. Sitstart looks hard - V8?</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="39">Step onto the wall and its done.</problem>
<image src="Bichenoblow3.jpg" id="40" height="227"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name=" " number="1." stars="*" id="41">Up from break to small pockets</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name=" " number="2." stars="*" id="42">Up from break</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="43">Easy slab</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="44">Easy slab</problem>
<image src="Bichenoblow5.jpg" id="45" height="258"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="46">Start on pockets just right of arete</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="47">Project - start from big flat hold</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="48">Up crack</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="49">Up from underclings to pockets</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name=" " number="5." stars=" " id="50">Easy slab</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name=" " number="6." stars=" " id="51">Easy slab</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="7." stars=" " id="52">Awkward sitstart and up crack</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name=" " number="8." stars=" " id="53">Awkward sitstart just left of arete and up to jugs</problem>
<image src="Bichenoblow6.jpg" id="54" height="300"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="9." stars="**" id="55">Sitstart off low slot and up steeply to jugs</problem>
<text class="text" id="56">This is around the corner into the next little zawn, below Blowhole Boulder:</text>
<image src="Bichenoblow7.jpg" id="57" height="230"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2/3" name=" " number="1." stars="*" id="58">Sitstart up flake to slopey topout</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="59">Face using big slots</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="60">Project - knob to shallow pockets</problem>
<image src="Bichenoblow8.jpg" id="61" height="379"/>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V4/5" name="There she blows" number="4." stars="*" id="62">Up face using high crimps (hard to reach) to slopey topout. The sitstart will be very hard if it goes.</problem>
<text class="text" id="63">This is directly under Blowhole Boulder:</text>
<image src="Bichenoblow9.jpg" id="64" height="272"/>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="65">Layback up corner</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="66">Up arete</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="67">Up arete</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="68">Exploding Crystal Boulders</text>
<text class="text" id="69">These three free standing boulders are about 40m north of the Blowhole. The rock isn't as good as some of the other boulders and tends to be a bit gravelly.</text>
<image src="Bichenoexplodingcrystal1.jpg" id="70" height="243"/>
<text class="text" id="71">This is the side facing land:</text>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="72">Slab</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="Exploding Crystal" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="73">Slab up highest part of boulder</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="74">Slab with underclings</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="75">Project</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Bohemian Crystal" number="5." stars="*" id="76">Sitstart at arete</problem>
<image src="Bichenoexplodingcrystal2.jpg" id="77" height="248"/>
<text class="text" id="78">This is the seaward side of the boulders:</text>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="79">Slab</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="80">Slab</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="My Brown Dog" number="3." stars=" " id="81">Sitstart and up crack</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="82">Project</problem>
<image src="Bichenoexplodingcrystal3.jpg" width="800" id="83" height="339"/>
<text class="text" id="84">This is the northern side of the boulders:</text>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="85"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="" number="2." stars=" " id="86">Pull over the slopey shelf from sitting.</problem>
<problem id="305" name="Left Cleft" grade="V8" extra="(SDS)" number="3." stars="*">Start on slopey protrusions at the base of the left cleft. Slap up and left to the lip and fight upwards.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="High Tide" number="4." stars="*" id="87"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Low Tide" number="5." stars=" " id="88"/>
<problem extra="(Hang)" grade="V4" name="Drowned" number="6." stars=" " id="89">Hang start on lowest hold on lip above overhang and slap up.</problem>
<text id="307" class="heading3">Mushroom Boulder</text>
<text id="308">This is next to the exploding crystal boulders, and the problem faces inland.</text>
<image id="313" src="mushroom.jpg" height="281"/>
<problem id="309" number="1." name="The Mushroom" stars="*" grade="V7" extra="(SDS)">Pull up using the crack and anything else, gain the slopey arete and then the top.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="90">Crab Boulders</text>
<text class="text" id="91">These boulders are about another 50m north of the Exploding Crystal Boulders.</text>
<image src="Bichenocrab1.jpg" id="92" height="203"/>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="93"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Hermit Crab" number="2." stars="*" id="94">A heel helps pull up the hanging arete.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="95">Slab</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Mud Crab" number="4." stars=" " id="96"/>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name=" " number="5." stars=" " id="97"/>
<image src="Bichenocrab2.jpg" id="98" height="306"/>
<text class="text" id="99">This is the north facing side of the boulders:</text>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="100"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="101">Arete over awkward landing</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="Giant Crab" number="3." stars="*" id="102">Start off flakes</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="103"/>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="5." stars=" " id="104">Go into the gap between problems 1 and 2. There are four different slab problems in there.</problem>
<text id="310" class="heading3">Gaston Wall</text>
<image id="314" src="bichenogaston.jpg" height="281"/>
<text id="311">Some way back towards land from the crab boulders is a nice face.</text>
<problem id="312" name="Project?" extra="(SDS)" number="1." stars="**">Pull to a hard move from a thin gaston. V9?</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="105">Suntrap Cove</text>
<text class="text" id="106">Halfway between Crab Boulders and The Block Area is a small cove with several large boulders on the southern side.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="107">Suntrap Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="108">This is the smooth boulder closest to Suntrap cove. A short walk south along the Foreshore Walk from the Suntrap Cove roadside sign.</text>
<image src="suntrapBoulderArrows.jpg" width="" id="109" height="333"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" number="1." stars="" id="110">Up on flake.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" number="2." stars="" id="111">Ugly first move leads to crimp and highstep. Best avoided.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" number="3." stars="*" id="112">Step onto hold/rock and head for the top.</problem>
<image src="SuntrapBoulderNorthArrows.jpg" width="" id="113" height="333"/>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="" number="4." stars="" id="114" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2017">Pull onto the face with a high foot.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" name="" number="5." stars="" id="115" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2017">Start on slopey rail and head up through more slopes.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Angry Penguins" number="6." stars="**" id="116" length="" fa="">Start right hand in the corner and left on the arete. One hardish move to gain a higher handhold on the arete then up to a mantle top-out.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="" number="7." stars="" id="117" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2017">Start in crack using right arete.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="119">Sharp boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="120">This boulder is 100m south of the Suntrap cove boulder. It is sharper than most of the boulders in this area.</text>
<image src="sharpBoulderArrows.jpg" width="" id="121" height="297"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="" number="1." stars="" id="122">Move up left arete.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" number="2." stars="" id="123" length="" fa="">Start at base of crack using hold and crimp layaway. Move to top of crack layaway and then to the top rounds.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" number="3." stars="" id="124" length="" fa="">Sit-start on layaway and good hold. Up face to crimp, left hand arete and up.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" name="" number="5." stars="" id="126" length="" fa="">Start left hand on the undercling and step up into it. Just one move and then the mantle. Sit start would be hard.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" number="6." stars="" id="127">Start on the obvious flake. Layaway and head for the top jugs.</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="128">The Block Area</text>
<text class="text" id="129">Park at the little picnic area on the coast just south of the Gulch area and 300m north of the Blowhole. Wander down to the obvious square cut blocks.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="130">The Wall</text>
<text class="text" id="131">This is the vertical wall directly opposite the Block</text>
<image src="Bichenoblock1.jpg" id="132" height="304"/>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="133">Using left arete and slopers pull to ledge. Sitstart might be possible, but very hard.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" name="Another Brick in the Wall" number="2." stars="*" id="134">Start off 2 slopers, pull to ledge</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name=" " number="3." stars="*" id="135">Nice corner</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name="Wall of China" number="4." stars=" " id="136">Thin face 1m right of corner, don't use corner</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V6" name="Berlin Wall" number="5." stars="**" id="137">Straight up the middle of the wall on crimps with a throw to the top jug.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="6." stars=" " id="138">Corner</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name=" " number="7." stars=" " id="139">Crack</problem>
<problem extra=" " grade="V0" name=" " number=" " stars=" " id="140">Diagonal crack around corner to right of previous problem</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V8" name=" " number="8." stars="**" id="141">Traverse across very thin wall finish up 4.</problem>
<text class="text" id="142">The wall continues on around to the left:</text>
<image src="Bichenoblock2.jpg" id="143" height="219"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="144"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="145"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="146"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="147"/>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name=" " number="5." stars="*" id="148">Right to left traverse</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="149">The Block</text>
<text class="text" id="150">This is the main free standing boulder:</text>
<image src="Bichenoblock3.jpg" id="151" height="353"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Block Rockin' Beats" number="1." stars="***" id="152">On the boulder there is a completely blank overhanging face. This problem climbs the steep left arete on pockets.</problem>
<image src="Bichenoblock4.jpg" id="153" height="300"/>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="154">Pull up off thin slopes</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name=" " number="3." stars="*" id="155">Up off jug to slopes</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="156">Up corner</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name="Road Block" number="5." stars="**" id="157">Sit start on the big jug and pull through to the top on slopes</problem>
<image src="Bichenoblock5.jpg" id="158" height="212"/>
<text class="text" id="159">The opposite side of the freestanding boulder:</text>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3/4" name=" " number=" " stars=" " id="160">Just left of the arete pull up on flake and do a tricky mantle over the top of the steep face</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="161">Near left arete</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="162">Up slab</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="163">Up flake</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="164">Start as for previous problem but go right to pockets</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name=" " number="5." stars=" " id="165">Start in little depression and up slab using underclings</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name=" " new="false" number="6." stars="" id="166">Up using undercling/crack.</problem>
<text class="heading3" new="false" id="167">Grey Dog Boulder</text>
<text class="text" new="false" id="168">This is the orange slab adjacent to the Block.</text>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="" stars="" id="169">Left side of slab</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="" stars="" id="170">Crack in middle of slab</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="" stars="" id="171">Right side of slab</problem>
<image new="false" number="null." src="BichenoProblem2.jpg" width="" id="172" height="381">null</image>
<text class="text" new="false" id="173">This problem is just around to the right.</text>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Grey Dog" new="false" number="1." stars="**" id="174">Use the undercling to the top then head left.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="Glory Hole" new="false" number="" stars="*" id="175">In the middle of the back of the Grey Dog boulder, start down in hole, climb the nice flake.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="" stars="" id="176">Start a couple of metres right of Glory Hole off the blocks. Sitstart off sidepull, move L up face.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="" stars="" id="177">Easy cracks to R of previous problem</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="" stars="" id="178">Diagonal crack left of arete</problem>
<image src="Bichenoblock6.jpg" id="179" height="267"/>
<text class="text" new="false" id="180">This small boulder is just behind the Grey Dog boulder.</text>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="181"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="182"/>
<text class="heading3" new="false" id="183">The Orange Slab Area</text>
<text class="text" new="false" id="184">These slabs are about 40-50m east of the Block area and face out to sea.</text>
<text class="text" new="false" id="185">The Black Slab is about 20m left of the Orange Slab.</text>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="" stars="" id="186">Prow around to the left of the Black Slab - looks nice but a bit scary.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="" stars="" id="187">Crack on left edge of slab</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="" stars="*" id="188">Slab 1m R of crack</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="The Black Slab" new="false" number="" stars="*" id="189">Up middle of slab on nice dimples</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="" stars="*" id="190">Slab 2m R on more dimples</problem>
<image src="Bichenoorangeslab.jpg" id="191" height="284"/>
<text class="text" new="false" id="192">This is the Orange Slab itself.</text>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2/3" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="193"/>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="194">Project - very thin up the steepest part of the face</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V6?" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="195">Project - Up thin seam on small flakes</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" name="Fully Sick Mate" number="4." stars=" " id="196">Up thin slab</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name=" " number="5." stars=" " id="197"/>
<text class="text" new="false" id="198">20m right of the Orange Slab is a smaller lower angled slab - The White Slab.</text>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="" stars="*" id="199">Diagonals on L side of slab</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="" stars="" id="200">Crack in middle of slab</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="The White Slab" new="false" number="" stars="*" id="201">Nice slab 1m right of crack</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="" stars="" id="202">Diagonal on R of slab</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="203">Peggys Point</text>
<text class="text" id="204">The following great free standing boulders are on the Gulch side of Peggys Point. Park near the Silver Sands resort and walk across the oval and down to the coast. The boulders are obvious if you are on the right bit of coastline.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="205">Abalone Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="206">This is the more southerly of the two free standing boulders. It has excellent fine grained rock.</text>
<image src="Bichenoabalone1.jpg" id="207" height="339"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Crab Stick" number="1." stars=" " id="208">From jug up left to flake</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Piece of Flake" number="2." stars="**" id="209">Up large flake</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="Fish and Chips" number="3." stars="*" id="210">Arete and corner</problem>
<image src="Bichenoabalone2.jpg" width="500" id="211" height="321"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Ab Diver" number="1." stars=" " id="212">From the curving crack, pull up the face. V2 from standing.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Lemon and Garlic" number="2." stars=" " id="213">Up face. SDS is a project</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="Soy Sauce" number="3." stars="*" id="214">Corner left of arete</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="Abalone Arete" number="4." stars="**" id="215">Sitstart at the crack. Move left to the big undercling flake on the arete and up. Eliminating the crack from the start would make it harder.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Flathead" number="5." stars=" " id="216">Crack</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8" name=" Hangman" number="6." stars="*" id="217">Sitstart the face (rh pinch the undercling) and pull up to gain the short hanging crack. V1 from standing.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Mullet" number="7." stars=" " id="218">Crack</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="8." stars=" " id="219">Face</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="Kelpie" number="9." stars=" " id="220">Crusty arete</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name=" " number="10." stars="*" id="221">Traverse the top lip right around the boulder</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5/6?" name=" " number="11." stars=" " id="222">Project - Start at Mullet and traverse leftwards without using the top of the boulder to finish at Crab Stick.</problem>
<text class="text" id="223">This small boulder is about 20m north of the Abalone Boulder:</text>
<image src="Bichenoabalone3.jpg" id="224" height="372"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="Squid Rings" number="1." stars="*" id="225">Low sitstart and up jugs</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="226">Crayfish Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="227">This free standing boulder is less than 100m north of the Abalone boulder, and has an overhanging east face.</text>
<image src="Bichenocrayfish1.jpg" width="500" id="228" height="293"/>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Craypot" number="1." stars="*" id="229">Up jugs on hanging face. Project - start down in cave and climb up to the face.</problem>
<problem extra="(Hang)" grade="V4" name="Craypot direct" number="2." stars="" id="230" length="" fa="Brendan Heywood Dec 2013">Start dangling on slopers over void, throw left heel into groove and mantle into left roof hold, link up onto face.<br/></problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="231">Project</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Tricky Little Bastards" number="4." stars="*" id="232">Sit start in break and up</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="The Crayfish" number="5." stars="**" id="233">Sitstart at break and up groove using honker jugs. Brilliant easy problem.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="The Belly Scraper" number="6." stars="***" id="234">Jump for the great jug and haul your arse over the top. More fun than a barrel full of monkeys.</problem>
<problem id="315" stars="**" extra="(Stand)" number="7" name="Crackpot Traverse" length="" grade="V3" fa="">Start on the big jug on Crayfish and traverse around the horizontal line to finish up Craypot. At problem 3 (project) move between horizontal breaks using awkward jams. A great problem with a little bit of everything - juggy traverse, handjams, campus moves, deep water soloing and a slopey topout.</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="235">Diamond Island</text>
<text class="text" id="236">Diamond Island has some nice freestanding boulders and walls on its seaward side. To get there park at Redbill Point and walk north along the beach to the spit which connects the island to the mainland. At low tide you should be able to easily walk across. Walk around the southern side of the island for 5 minutes or so until you get the south east corner, where the boulders start.</text>
<text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="237">Moby Dick Wall</text>
<image new="false" number="null." src="spermWhale.jpg" width="" id="238" height="234">null</image>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="239">This large sheared off wall is the first decent bit of rock you come to. I'm not sure of the names and grades of these problems, but they had chalk on them.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="240">Diamond Boulder</text>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="241">This beautiful free standing boulder is hidden behind the red slabs to the right of the Moby Dick Wall. The first topo is the back of the boulder.</text>
<image src="diamondback.jpg" width="" id="242" height="385"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Don't Say it Mr Trump" number="1." stars="" id="243">Sitstart up little corner on left side of boulder</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" number="2." stars="" id="244">Easy featured slab, also the descent</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="You're Fired" number="3." stars="*" id="245">Sitstart under arete, up on big jugs</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="" number="4." stars="" id="246">Up face just right of arete. The thin sitstart might go.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="" number="5." stars="" id="247">Slab in middle of face. Sitstart might go.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" number="6." stars="*" id="248">Project - Sitstart up arete to tricky slab</problem>
<text class="text" id="249">This is the front of the boulder, which faces the sea.</text>
<image src="diamondfront.jpg" width="" id="250" height="367"/>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="" number="1." stars="" id="251">Project - start on high flat hold 1m right of arete. Up to flake and topout.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2/3" name="Jack of Diamonds" number="2." stars="*" id="252">Sitstart in corner and follow ramp rightwards, then up onto ledge</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Queen of Diamonds" number="3." stars="*" id="253">Up arete from awkward sitstart</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="King of Diamonds" number="4." stars="**" id="254">Beautiful featured face.</problem>
<text class="text" id="255">30m south of the Diamond Boulder is this little roof.</text>
<image src="barnacleroof.jpg" width="" id="256" height="375"/>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Barnacle Roof" number="1." stars="" id="257">Start on hold under left side of roof. Don't use rock to the left.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Barnacle Bill" number="2." stars="*" id="258">Start on the right hand edge of the roof, traverse left and then up.</problem>
<text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="259">Random Slab</text>
<image new="false" number="null." src="slab.jpg" width="" id="260" height="255">null</image>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="261">This slab is up and to the left of Moby Dick Wall.</text>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="" id="262">Left side of slab</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="263">Middle of slab on nice holds</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="" id="264">Right side of slab</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="" id="265">Traverse from left to right</problem>
<text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="266">Diamond In the Rough Area</text>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="267">From the Moby Dick Wall, head left down a small gulch to find this great area of freestanding boulders and walls. Most of the problems here are easy to moderate, but there are some blank slabs and walls that may or may not have been done.</text>
<image new="false" number="null." src="diamondIntheRoughArea.jpg" width="800" id="268" height="212">null</image>
<image new="false" number="null." src="ditr2.jpg" width="" id="269" height="201">null</image>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="" id="270">Face and mantle left of crack</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5?" name="Diamond in the Rough" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="271">Crack in middle of face. The sit start is a bit awkward</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="" id="272">Face using sidepulls.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="" id="273">Easy right arete</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="5." stars="" id="274">Arete</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="6." stars="" id="275">Crack</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="7." stars="" id="276">Sitstart to jugs</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="8." stars="" id="277">Traverse right to left along jugs</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="9." stars="" id="278">Project? - hard slab up arete</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="10." stars="" id="279">Hand crack</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="11." stars="" id="280">Sitstart on arete, up left</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="12." stars="" id="281">Sitstart on arete, go right then up</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="13." stars="" id="282">Nice crack in slab</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="14." stars="" id="283">Nice crack in slab. Can be done as a SDS</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="15." stars="" id="284">Start under little overhang, up and over.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="16." stars="" id="285">Crack</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="17." stars="" id="286">Nice little arete</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="18." stars="" id="287">Project - start under arete on R of face, move left and up</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="19." stars="" id="288">Cracks up face</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="20." stars="" id="289">Jugs left of arete</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="21." stars="" id="290">Flake in middle of face, up to slab</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="21b." stars="" id="291">High holds 2m right of flake, up to slab</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="22." stars="" id="292">Traverse jugs in either direction from corner to corner</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="23a." stars="" id="293">Start a couple of metres left of arete on jug, pull up and mantle</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="23b." stars="" id="294">SDS, up arete</problem>
<text class="heading2" new="false" number="null." id="295">Little Beach</text>
<text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="296">Little Beach is 35km North of Bicheno. Several km's past the Elephant Pass turn off look for the Little Beach sign almost at the bottom of a dip. Its a lovely spot for swimming, fishing and bouldering. Head down to the beach then north, the boulder is in the first alcove along the beach.<br/>NOTE: The sand has washed away from under the boulder making the boulder unclimbable. Needs a storm or something to bring the sand back in...</text>
<image new="false" number="null." src="LittleBeachProblemsSmall.jpg" width="" id="297" height="382">null</image>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="" id="298">Straight up using jugs. The sit start will probably go.</problem>
<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="299">Use more jugs and up. The sit start looks hard but will probably go.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="" id="300">Project. Head up and left.</problem>
<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="*" id="301">Pull up to side pulls then jugs to top.</problem>
<problem extra="" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="5." stars="" id="302">Hardest line. Cool looking problem.</problem>
<problem extra="" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="6." stars="" id="303">Project. Arete to slopey topout.</problem>
</guide>
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