Bicheno bouldering

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Bicheno

The bouldering in Bicheno is located on coastal boulders. The boulders can be found at the Blowhole and run north for 300m to a large block with more at Peggys Point. The problems here, although limited in extent, are some of the best in the state. The rock is funky granite that is quite different from the rock at Coles Bay. Generally the rock is clean, except for barnacles.
The majority of problems depend on a low tide and swell. See the Mercury or http://www.ntf.flinders.edu.au/TEXT/TIDES/TIDES/tas.html for tide predictions.
The weather in winter here is amongst the best in the state, with lots of warm sunny days, which makes Bicheno a good escape from Hobart. In summer you've got the sea right next to the bouldering to cool off in.
Bicheno is on the east coast of Tasmania, about 2 and a half hours from Hobart or Launceston. It is about 35 minutes drive north of Coles Bay. There are plenty of campgrounds, motels, shops and takeaways in town.

The Blowhole Area

There are some great problems on the freestanding boulders and walls around the blowhole. Follow the signs off the main road to get to the the parking area for the Blowhole, then walk 50m out to the obvious block.

Blowhole Boulder

There have been a few problems done here on the boulder next to the Blowhole.
     V?  
Some easier lines have been done on the slabby side of the boulder
1.      V?  (SDS)

2. Blow Job     V8  (SDS)
Sit start on small crimps up slightly overhanging face. Excellent problem
3.      V?  (SDS)

Whale Boulder

This is the south facing wall about 40m south of the Blowhole.
1. Sperm Whale     V6  (SDS)
Sitstart on low hold hit arete and up
1a.      V10?  (SDS)
Project. Same start as no 1, blast high and right then up.
2. Minke Whale     V2/3  (SDS)
Flakes
3. Blue Whale     V1  (Stand)
Flakes to high topout. SDS is project
4. Humpback Arete     V5?  (SDS)
Classic steep arete to slopey topout
This block is directly across from the Whale boulder:
1.      V3  (SDS)
Sitstart at flake and up groove
2.      V?  (SDS)
Project - just left of arete
On the back of the same block:
1.      V1  (SDS)
Up nice flake/crack
Across from the previous problem:
1.      V0  (SDS)
Up juggy face
2.      V0  (SDS)
Up quartz jugs
3.      V0  (SDS)
Up steep quartz arete

Blowhole Walls

There are some great vertical and slightly overhanging square cut walls below and immediately to the south of the Blowhole. Most of these problems depend on a low tide and swell.
1.      V?  (Stand)
Project up the arete.
2.      V2  (Stand)
Step onto the wall and its done.
1.      V3/4  (SDS)
Up from break to small pockets
2.      V4  (SDS)
Up from break
3.      VE  (Stand)
Easy slab
4.      VE  (Stand)
Easy slab
1.      V3  (SDS)
Start on pockets just right of arete
2.      V?  (SDS)
Project - start from big flat hold
3.      V3/4  (SDS)
Up crack
4.      V3/4  (SDS)
Up from underclings to pockets
5.      VE  (Stand)
Easy slab
6.      VE  (Stand)
Easy slab
7.      V3  (SDS)
Awkward sitstart and up crack
8.      V3/4  (SDS)
Awkward sitstart just left of arete and up to jugs
9.      V3  (SDS)
Sitstart off low slot and up steeply to jugs
This is around the corner into the next little zawn, below Blowhole Boulder:
1.      V2/3  (SDS)
Sitstart up flake to slopey topout
2.      V1  (Stand)
Face using big slots
3.      V?  (Stand)
Project - knob to shallow pockets
4. There she blows     V4/5  (Stand)
Up face using high crimps (hard to reach) to slopey topout.
The sitstart will be very hard if it goes.
This is directly under Blowhole Boulder:
1.      V0  (Stand)
Layback up corner
2.      V1  (Stand)
Up arete
3.      V1  (Stand)
Up arete

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