The bouldering in Bicheno is located on coastal boulders. The boulders can be found at the Blowhole and run north for 300m to a large block with more at Peggys Point. The problems here, although limited in extent, are some of the best in the state. The rock is funky granite that is quite different from the rock at Coles Bay. Generally the rock is clean, except for barnacles.
The majority of problems depend on a low tide and swell. See the Mercury or http://www.ntf.flinders.edu.au/TEXT/TIDES/TIDES/tas.html for tide predictions.
The weather in winter here is amongst the best in the state, with lots of warm sunny days, which makes Bicheno a good escape from Hobart. In summer you've got the sea right next to the bouldering to cool off in.
Bicheno is on the east coast of Tasmania, about 2 and a half hours from Hobart or Launceston. It is about 35 minutes drive north of Coles Bay. There are plenty of campgrounds, motels, shops and takeaways in town.
There are some great problems on the freestanding boulders and walls around the blowhole. Follow the signs off the main road to get to the the parking area for the Blowhole, then walk 50m out to the obvious block.
Blowhole Boulder
There have been a few problems done here on the boulder next to the Blowhole.
V?
Some easier lines have been done on the slabby side of the boulder
1. V? (SDS)
2.Blow Job V8 (SDS)
Sit start on small crimps up slightly overhanging face. Excellent problem
3. V? (SDS)
Whale Boulder
This is the south facing wall about 40m south of the Blowhole.
1.Sperm Whale V6 (SDS)
Sitstart on low hold hit arete and up
1a. V10? (SDS)
Project. Same start as no 1, blast high and right then up.
2.Minke Whale V2/3 (SDS)
Flakes
3.Blue Whale V1 (Stand)
Flakes to high topout. SDS is project
4.Humpback Arete V5? (SDS)
Classic steep arete to slopey topout
This block is directly across from the Whale boulder:
1. V3 (SDS)
Sitstart at flake and up groove
2. V? (SDS)
Project - just left of arete
On the back of the same block:
1. V1 (SDS)
Up nice flake/crack
Across from the previous problem:
1. V0 (SDS)
Up juggy face
2. V0 (SDS)
Up quartz jugs
3. V0 (SDS)
Up steep quartz arete
Blowhole Walls
There are some great vertical and slightly overhanging square cut walls below and immediately to the south of the Blowhole. Most of these problems depend on a low tide and swell.
1. V? (Stand)
Project up the arete.
2. V2 (Stand)
Step onto the wall and its done.
1. V3/4 (SDS)
Up from break to small pockets
2. V4 (SDS)
Up from break
3. VE (Stand)
Easy slab
4. VE (Stand)
Easy slab
1. V3 (SDS)
Start on pockets just right of arete
2. V? (SDS)
Project - start from big flat hold
3. V3/4 (SDS)
Up crack
4. V3/4 (SDS)
Up from underclings to pockets
5. VE (Stand)
Easy slab
6. VE (Stand)
Easy slab
7. V3 (SDS)
Awkward sitstart and up crack
8. V3/4 (SDS)
Awkward sitstart just left of arete and up to jugs
9. V3 (SDS)
Sitstart off low slot and up steeply to jugs
This is around the corner into the next little zawn, below Blowhole Boulder:
1. V2/3 (SDS)
Sitstart up flake to slopey topout
2. V1 (Stand)
Face using big slots
3. V? (Stand)
Project - knob to shallow pockets
4.There she blows V4/5 (Stand)
Up face using high crimps (hard to reach) to slopey topout.
The sitstart will be very hard if it goes.
This is directly under Blowhole Boulder:
1. V0 (Stand)
Layback up corner
2. V1 (Stand)
Up arete
3. V1 (Stand)
Up arete
Exploding Crystal Boulders
These three free standing boulders are about 40m north of the Blowhole. The rock isn't as good as some of the other boulders and tends to be a bit gravelly.
This is the side facing land:
1. VE (Stand)
Slab
2.Exploding Crystal V0 (SDS)
Slab up highest part of boulder
3. V0 (Stand)
Slab with underclings
4. V? (SDS)
Project
5.Bohemian Crystal V2 (SDS)
Sitstart at arete
This is the seaward side of the boulders:
1. V0 (Stand)
Slab
2. VE (Stand)
Slab
3.My Brown Dog V2 (SDS)
Sitstart and up crack
4. V? (SDS)
Project
This is the northern side of the boulders:
1. V2 (Stand)
3. V? (SDS)
Project
4.High Tide V3 (SDS)
5.Low Tide V1 (SDS)
6.Drowned V4 (Hang)
Hang start on lowest hold on lip above overhang and slap up.
Crab Boulders
These boulders are about another 50m north of the Exploding Crystal Boulders.
1. V? (Stand)
2.Hermit Crab V3 (Stand)
Sitstart is a project
3. VE (Stand)
Slab
4.Mud Crab V2 (SDS)
5. VE (Stand)
This is the north facing side of the boulders:
1. VE (Stand)
2. V2 (SDS)
Arete over awkward landing
3.Giant Crab V2 (Stand)
Start off flakes
4. V0 (Stand)
5. V0 (Stand)
Go into the gap between problems 1 and 2. There are four different slab problems in there.
Suntrap Cove
Halfway between Crab Boulders and The Block Area is a small cove with several large boulders on the southern side.
Suntrap Boulder
This is the smooth boulder closest to Suntrap cove. A short walk south along the Foreshore Walk from the Suntrap Cove roadside sign.
1. V1 (SDS)
Up on flake.
2. V3 (SDS)
Ugly first move leads to crimp and highstep. Best avoided.
3. V1 (Stand)
Step onto hold/rock and head for the top.
4. V?
5. V? (Stand)
Project. Start on slopey rail.
6. V? (SDS)
Start in corner.
7. V? (SDS)
Project. Start in crack using right arete.
Sharp boulder
This boulder is 100m south of the Suntrap cove boulder. It is sharper than most of the boulders in this area.
1. VE (SDS)
Move up left arete.
2. V? (SDS)
Project. Start at base of crack using hold and crimp layaway. Move to top of crack layaway and then to the top rounds.
3. V1 (Stand)
Start on arete and hold. Go for the top and pullover. Sitstart looks awkward.
4. V?
5. V?
Head for the undercling and over.
6. V2 (SDS)
Start on the obvious flake. Layaway and head for the top jugs.
The Block Area
Park at the little picnic area on the coast just south of the Gulch area and 300m north of the Blowhole. Wander down to the obvious square cut blocks.
The Wall
This is the vertical wall directly opposite the Block
1. V3 (Stand)
Using left arete and slopers pull to ledge. Sitstart might be possible, but very hard.
2.Another Brick in the Wall V4 (Stand)
Start off 2 slopers, pull to ledge
3. V0 (SDS)
Nice corner
4.Wall of China V5 (Stand)
Thin face 1m right of corner, don't use corner
5.Berlin Wall V6 (Stand)
Straight up the middle of the wall on crimps with a throw to the top jug.
6. V0 (Stand)
Corner
7. V2 (SDS)
Crack
V0
Diagonal crack around corner to right of previous problem
8. V8 (Stand)
Traverse across very thin wall finish up 4.
The wall continues on around to the left:
1. V0 (SDS)
2. V0 (SDS)
3. V3 (SDS)
4. V1 (SDS)
5. V2 (Stand)
Right to left traverse
The Block
This is the main free standing boulder:
1.Block Rockin' Beats V6 (SDS)
On the boulder there is a completely blank overhanging face. This problem climbs the steep left arete on pockets.
2. V5 (Stand)
Pull up off thin slopes
3. V7 (SDS)
Up off jug to slopes
4. V2 (SDS)
Up corner
5.Road Block V7 (SDS)
Sit start on the big jug and pull through to the top on slopes
The opposite side of the freestanding boulder:
V3/4 (Stand)
Just left of the arete pull up on flake and do a tricky mantle over the top of the steep face
1. V2 (Stand)
Near left arete
2. V1 (Stand)
Up slab
3. V1 (SDS)
Up flake
4. V2 (SDS)
Start as for previous problem but go right to pockets
5. V2 (Stand)
Start in little depression and up slab using underclings
6. V7 (SDS)
Up using undercling/crack.
Grey Dog Boulder
This is the orange slab adjacent to the Block.
V0 (Stand)
Left side of slab
VE (Stand)
Crack in middle of slab
V0 (Stand)
Right side of slab
This problem is just around to the right.
1.Grey Dog V4 (SDS)
Use the undercling to the top then head left.
Glory Hole V0 (Stand)
In the middle of the back of the Grey Dog boulder, start down in hole, climb the nice flake.
V2 (SDS)
Start a couple of metres right of Glory Hole off the blocks. Sitstart off sidepull, move L up face.
VE (Stand)
Easy cracks to R of previous problem
V0 (SDS)
Diagonal crack left of arete
This small boulder is just behind the Grey Dog boulder.
1. V3 (SDS)
2. V3 (SDS)
The Orange Slab Area
These slabs are about 40-50m east of the Block area and face out to sea.
The Black Slab is about 20m left of the Orange Slab.
V? (Stand)
Prow around to the left of the Black Slab - looks nice but a bit scary.
VE (Stand)
Crack on left edge of slab
V1 (Stand)
Slab 1m R of crack
The Black Slab V1 (Stand)
Up middle of slab on nice dimples
V0 (Stand)
Slab 2m R on more dimples
This is the Orange Slab itself.
1. V2/3 (Stand)
2. V? (Stand)
Project - very thin up the steepest part of the face
3. V6? (Stand)
Project - Up thin seam on small flakes
4.Fully Sick Mate V4 (Stand)
Up thin slab
5. V1 (Stand)
20m right of the Orange Slab is a smaller lower angled slab - The White Slab.
4. There she blows V4/5 (Stand) 
5. V0 (Stand) 
1. Block Rockin' Beats V6 (SDS) 
