Page History

...

ER (ie Equipoise right variant - for the sake of reference) on bulging happens to be rather different to Spittoon on Flange. ER would be a death fall for the vast majority of the climb without the bolts. There is one substantial piece (at 15m) for the first 25 m which makes up the entire sustained crux section. Comparing it to Spittoon  - which has pieces of natural gear right from the start- is nonsensical. The bolts are spaced on ER stop the climber hitting ground and are put next to clipping stances. Adam actually bolted the route (with me present) and given our collective history I think that says something about the nature of the climb you are criticising out of hand. You have NO knowledge of your subject as you have not seen ER, nor climbed Spittoon! Finally, Spittoon was effectively retro-bolted as Roger knew that someone was trying it and was an experienced enough climber to recognise the natural gear placements had been cleaned and used (as Simon did instantly)...this has all been previously well covered on thesarvo previously... So again, your comparisons between the incidents is unfounded, and distracting to those trying to have productive conversations about our shared cliff. 

...

In the mean time I humbly ask that you do not substantially change the character of Epitomeee, and this position is clear already in the way I have written the climb up. In doing so you will would be denying other climbers, such as Danger Darren, Tim Smith, Simon Young, Dave James, Simon NiceGuyfromNAmerica, etc from their opportunities in partaking in a diverse activity. Of course I recognise I have no control over what you or others and what you decide to do...

...