Page History

<guide version="2"><header access="" acknowledgement="by Nick Hancock, originally published in Craglets" history="" intro="Bicheno is just 12km north of the turn off for Coles Bay, so a visit can easily be combined with a trip to Freycinet. There is a limited amount of climbing, but the granite is superb hereabouts, with some good bouldering to be found at the nearby Blowhole. " name="Bicheno" rock="Very large grained granite" sun="All day sun" walk="5 minutes" id="1"/><text id="14">Whalers Lookout</text><text id="15">This is the northern area. Park in a gravel spot below a track that heads north at first below a blank slabby cliff, then turns R below steeper buttresses.</text><climb id="16" name="Moby Dick" grade="25" length="6m" fa="Nick Hancock 2005" number="" stars="*">On the first buttress climb boldly up thin flake to a peg in the break, small cam also, then hard over bulge.</climb><climb id="17" name="Qui Quegs Coffin" length="8m" grade="22" number="" fa="Nick &amp; Heather Hancock, Ashley Mason 2005" stars="*">On the main area 50 metres further south along the trail, climb the hanging groove.</climb><text id="12" class="heading3">Lookout Rock</text><text id="13">To get to the roped climbing park at the end of Morrison Street and walk up the main track skirting the west side of Lookout Rock.</text><climb extra="" grade="22" length="6m" name="Life Threatening Blood Clot" id="2" fa="Nick Hancock, Jul 2001.">On the way up the track you'll pass a blank looking wall with a horizontal break at half height. Climb the centre of the wall via two poor #5 Rocks, and finish with trepidation. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Economy Class Syndrome" stars=" * " id="3" fa="Nick Hancock, Jul 2001.">On the west face of Lookout Rock itself is a L facing flake crack. Layback up this to a move R onto the slab. Up to a ledge and tree, then climb the final wall to the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="26" length="15m" name="Deep Vein Thrombosis" stars=" ** " id="4" fa="Nick Hancock, Jul 2001.">On the R side of the north face, up the gully to the L of Economy Class Syndrome is a thin finger crack, with hard to place wires at the top. </climb><text class="heading3" number="null." id="5">Nick Park</text><text class="text" number="null." id="6">From the end of Harveys farm Rd, just after 321 and before Avalon, walk south for 15 minutes until the path touches bare granite slabs. From here go down and the right to a small crag about 30 m before the sea.</text><climb extra="" grade="10" length="6m" name="The Wrong Trousers" id="7" fa="Sarah Hedges &amp; Nick Hancock Jul 2004.">Just left of the blank central slab, climb a crack into a short right-facing corner. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="26" length="6m" name="A Close Shave" number="" stars="**" id="8" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; Ashley Mason, Oct 2006.">From a couple of moves up The Wrong Trousers, make a few desperate moves right past a bolt to a good hold. Step right, via another bolt, to the arête and finish excitingly. </climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="6m" name="Chicken Run" id="9" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; Sarah Hedges Jul 2004.">To the right of the blank slab, climb a small blind right facing corner into a flaring finger crack. </climb><climb extra="" grade="5" length="5m" name="A Grand Day Out" id="10" fa="Sarah Hedges &amp; Nick Hancock Jul 2004.">Four meters right climb an easy crack just left of the shrubbery. </climb><climb extra="" grade="10" length="7m" name="Tree Route" id="11" fa="Sarah Hedges &amp; Nick Hancock Jul 2004.">A few minutes past Nick Park, on the main track, is a huge boulder.  Climb the tree that leans against the south face of the boulder. </climb></guide>