Bicheno
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Acknowledgement | by Nick Hancock, originally published in Craglets | ||||||
Introduction | Bicheno is just 12km north of the turn off for Coles Bay, so a visit can easily be combined with a trip to Freycinet. There is a limited amount of climbing, but the granite is superb hereabouts, with some good bouldering to be found at the nearby Blowhole. To get to the roped climbing park at the end of Morrison Street and walk up the main track skirting the west side of Lookout Rock. |
Life Threatening Blood Clot 6m 22 On the way up the track you'll pass a blank looking wall with a horizontal break at half height. Climb the centre of the wall via two poor #5 Rocks, and finish with trepidation. Nick Hancock, Jul/01.
Economy Class Syndrome 25m 20 On the west face of Lookout Rock itself is a L facing flake crack. Layback up this to a move R onto the slab. Up to a ledge and tree, then climb the final wall to the top. Nick Hancock, Jul/01.
Deep Vein Thrombosis 15m 26 On the R side of the north face, up the gully to the L of Economy Class Syndrome is a thin finger crack, with hard to place wires at the top. Nick Hancock, Jul/01.
From the end of Harveys farm Rd, just after 321 and before Avalon, walk south for 15 minutes until the path touches bare granite slabs. From here go down and the right to a small crag about 30 m before the sea.
The Wrong Trousers 6m 10 Just left of the blank central slab, climb a crack into a short right-facing corner. Sarah Hedges & Nick Hancock July 2004.
A Close Shave 6m 26 From a couple of moves up The Wrong Trousers, make a few desperate moves right past a bolt to a good hold. Step right, via another bolt, to the arête and finish excitingly. Nick Hancock & Ashley Mason, Oct. 2006.
Chicken Run 6m 23 To the right of the blank slab, climb a small blind right facing corner into a flaring finger crack. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges July 2004.
