Page History

<guide version="3">
  <header access="Access is via the track from the LH end of the parking bay which crosses the Organ Pipes Track and continues on up the hill. Where the track meets the base of the Lower Northern Buttress (see Northern Buttress sketch map), go up R and follow a rough track around the northern side of Toy Town buttress and scramble uphill to the spire of Johnstone's Knob." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="There are a number of shorter buttresses to the north of the main cliffs that provide some OK climbing." name="Far North Area" rock="Short dolerite cracks and faces up to 20m" sun="Morning sun" walk="10 min from Northern Buttress" id="1"/>


  <text class="heading2" id="222">
    DNA Buttress
  <>Toy Town</text>
  <text class="text" id="233">
    DNA Buttress>Toy Town is a smallgroup buttressof 30mfour steeplysmall uphillbuttresses andimmediately R from the top of the PipedreamNorthern Buttress and contains several short lines. The most prominent is Gear Freak, the corner crackLower Cliff. The routes are entertaining, with easy access, and are described R to L. Descend tovia the L.
   central gully or lower off Nancy Boys.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="1218" length="8m12m" name="Pancakes" We Can Jam Too" number="" stars="" id="2910" fa="UnknownJ. Fischer, J. Robinson, May 2005.">
    TheSteep flakeand onpotentially thestrenuous wallif Lyou ofget Simpleit Mindswrong.
 Start </climb>
up the <climb extra="" grade="8 " length="8m" name="Simple Minds " stars="" id="28" fa="Phil Steane, Oct 1982.">
    The shallow corner chimney 4m to the L of Rheumatismcrack then follow the arête before moving L into the crack again when your feet are level with the horizontal feature. Jam the crack to the top, making full use of the arête. Abseil off.
  </climb>
  <climb<text extraclass="text" gradeid="199">
 length="10m" name="Rheumatism " number="" stars="" id="27" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb 1982.">
    Anti-inflammatory medication might help! The thin line up the arête to the L of Gear Freak The next climb is on a small subsidiary wall immediately above Child's Play. Scramble up the gully between Nancy Boys and Child's Play for 4m, then turn L and up to the base of the crack, by a small sassafras tree.
  </climb>text>
  <climb extra="" grade="1621" length="10m" name="GearWar FreakToy " stars="*" id="268" fa="SD. ParsonsStephenson, PJ. BiggOtlowski, D. Fife, Feb 1982." number="GF"Apr 1989.">
    TenA metresbomb ofwaiting pure joy that ends prematurelyto drop. The handobvious crackline inup the prominentcentre cornerof immediatelythe L of D.N.A. Gets wider as you go.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="D.N.A. " number="" stars="" id="25" fa="D. Bowman, R. Wells, Dec 1977.">
    Just R of Gear Freak is a line with a suspended blade 3m off the ground. Climb to the blade and up the wide crack to the topmiddle buttress, just L of Child's Play. Climb up thin cracks just L of the arête and move carefully past the semi-detached spike to a hands off rest on top. Step off L and climb the wall above.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1420" length="15m10m" name="AdolescentChild's Play Drifters" number="" stars="*" id="247" fa="PhilD. SteaneStephenson, DJ. FifeOtlowski, Apr 19821989.">
    TheSurprisingly off-widthinsecure crackmoves 6mat R of D.N.A.
  </climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="11">
    Johnstone's Knob
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="12">
    A number of short routes exist on outcrops in the Johnstone's Knob area. All routes can be located easily from near the Knob.
Descend via the rap stations above the bolted routes, walk off or tape abseil the rest.
  </text>
  <image noPrint="false" src="great red pointer.jpg" width="500" id="13"/>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Shelter From The Storm " number="" stars="" id="20" fa="K. Kiernan, Nov 1975.">
    The other route on Pipedream Buttress. Climb the crack line around the arête L of Pipedream. Trickythe top. The RH arête of the largest (middle) buttress. Start on the LH side of the central gully and climb up the arête and the shallow corner above.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="10m" name="Nancy Boys " number="" stars="*" id="6" fa="R. Parkyn, Apr 1992.">
    An amusing encounter found on the arête L of Boys Toy. Start on the RH side of the central gully that leads to We Can Jam Too, and climb the arête mostly on the LH side via three bolts to a rap station. The ridiculously hard crux is the first few moves immediately off the ground.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1620" length="15m8m" name="PipedreamBoy's "Toy number="PD" stars="*" id="195" fa="D. BowmanStephenson, RJ. WellsOtlowski, DecApr 19771989.">
    Could Climbbe adangerous. steepThe handnext crackbuttress onL the(second RHfrom facethe pastR). someMove difficultiesR inacross the face midand section.climb Abseilthe off.
R  </arête past a large hollow flake.
  </climb>
  <text<climb classextra="text" idgrade="1817">
 length="7m" name="Virgin Boys The next two routes are found on Pipedream Buttress, a small buttress about 40m  uphill and southwest (L) of Johnstone's Knob.
  </text>
  <climb extra="4Þ ↓" grade="21" length="12m" name=" Sergeant Slaughter " number="" stars="*" id="17" fa="G. Phillips, Oct 1995.">
    Pleasant climbing. 4 bolts plus rap station.
  </climb>" stars="" id="4" fa="Phil Steane (solo), Aug 1982.">
    A pleasant sojourn on the far RH buttress. Climb a short crack on the L edge, step R and up to the top.
  </climb>


  <text class="heading2" id="11">Johnstone's Knob</text>
  <text class="text" id="1612">
>A number of short Theroutes nextexist routeon is on a small face about 30m south (L) ofoutcrops in the Johnstone's Knob area. All routes can be located easily from near the Knob. andDescend atvia the samerap level.
stations above </text>
the bolted <climb extra="3Þ ↓" grade="19" length="12m" name=" Great Red Pointer " number="" stars="*routes, walk off or tape abseil the rest.</text>

 
 
  <text class="text" id="1518">The fa="R. Parkyn, 1993.">
    Bizarre climbing up the side of thenext two routes are found on Pipedream Buttress, a small buttress about 40m  uphill and southwest (L) of Johnstone's Knob.</text>

 that faces Northern Buttress. Involves using the arêtes on either side, sometimes simultaneously. Has three glued carrots.<image src="DNAPipeDreamPrint.jpg" width="500" id="21">
    null
  </climb>image>

  <climb extra="↓" grade="1217" length="12m20m" name="Johnstone's KnobShelter From The Storm " starsnumber="*" stars="" id="1420" fa="UnknownK. Kiernan, SepNov 19611975.">
    The prominentother 12mroute spireon thatPipedream castsButtress. aClimb spellthe oncrack climbersline andaround enticesthe themarête over.L Thereof are several ways to the top. Rap station.
  <Pipedream. Tricky.
  </climb>
  <image<climb srcextra="DNAPipeDreamPrint.jpg" widthgrade="50016" idlength="2115m">
 name="Pipedream   null
  </image>
  <text class="heading2" id="2">
    Toy Town
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="3" number="PD" stars="" id="19" fa="D. Bowman, R. Wells, Dec 1977.">
    ToyClimb Towna issteep ahand groupcrack ofon fourthe smallRH buttressesface immediatelypast Rsome ofdifficulties Northernin Buttressthe Lowermid Cliffsection. TheAbseil routesoff.
 are entertaining, with easy access, and are described R to L. Descend via the central gully or lower off Nancy Boys.
   </climb>

  <text class="text" id="16">The next route is on a small face about 30m south (L) of the Knob and at the same level.</text>
  <climb extra="4Þ ↓" grade="1821" length="12m" name="We CanSergeant JamSlaughter Too" number="" stars="*" id="1017" fa="JG. FischerPhillips, J. Robinson, May 2005Oct 1995.">
    SteepPleasant andclimbing. potentially4 strenuousbolts ifplus you get it wrong. Start up the crack then follow the arête before moving L into the crack again when your feet are level with the horizontal feature. Jam the crack to the top, making full use of the arête. Abseil off.
  </climb>
  <text class="text" id="9">
    The next climb is on a small subsidiary wall immediately above Child's Play. Scramble up the gully between Nancy Boys and Child's Play for 4m, then turn L and up to the base of the crack, by a small sassafras tree.
  </text>rap station.
  </climb>


 <image noPrint="false" src="great red pointer.jpg" width="500" id="13"/>
  <climb extra="3Þ ↓" grade="19" length="12m" name=" Great Red Pointer " number="" stars="*" id="15" fa="R. Parkyn, 1993.">
    Bizarre climbing up the side of the Johnstone's Knob that faces Northern Buttress. Involves using the arêtes on either side, sometimes simultaneously. Has three glued carrots.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="2112" length="10m12m" name="WarJohnstone's ToyKnob " stars="*" id="14" fa="Unknown, Sep 1961." id="8" fa="D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr 1989.">
    A bomb waiting to drop. The obvious line up the centre of the middle buttress, just L of Child's Play. Climb up thin cracks just L of the arête and move carefully past the semi-detached spike to a hands off rest on top. Step off L and climb the wall above.
  </climb>>
    The prominent 12m spire that casts a spell on climbers and entices them over. There are several ways to the top. Rap station.
  </climb>



  <text class="heading2" id="22">DNA Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="23">DNA Buttress is a small buttress 30m steeply uphill and R from the top of the Pipedream Buttress and contains several short lines. The most prominent is Gear Freak, the corner crack. Descend to the L.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="2012" length="10m8m" name="Child's Play " number="Pancakes" stars="*" id="729" fa="DUnknown.">
 Stephenson,  J. Otlowski,The Apr 1989.">
    Surprisingly insecure moves at the top. The RH arête of the largest (middle) buttress. Start on the LH side of the central gully and climb up the arête and the shallow corner aboveflake on the wall L of Simple Minds.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="8 " length="8m" name="Simple Minds " stars="" id="28" fa="Phil Steane, Oct 1982.">
    The shallow corner chimney 4m to the L of Rheumatism.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="2119" length="10m" name="Nancy BoysRheumatism " number="" stars="*" id="627" fa="RS. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. ParkynFife, AprFeb 19921982.">
    Anti-inflammatory medication might Anhelp! amusingThe encounterthin foundline onup the arête to the L of BoysGear Toy. Start on the RH side of the central gully that leads to We Can Jam Too, and climb the arête mostly on the LH side via three bolts to a rap station. The ridiculously hard crux is the first few moves immediately off the groundFreak.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Gear Freak " stars="*" id="26" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb 1982." number="GF">
    Ten metres of pure joy that ends prematurely. The hand crack in the prominent corner immediately L of D.N.A. Gets wider as you go.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="2015" length="8m10m" name="Boy's Toy D.N.A. " number="" stars="*" id="525" fa="D. StephensonBowman, JR. OtlowskiWells, AprDec 19891977.">
    Just R of Gear CouldFreak is bea dangerous.line Thewith nexta buttresssuspended Lblade (second3m fromoff the R)ground. MoveClimb Rto across the faceblade and climbup the Rwide arêtecrack pastto a large hollow flakethe top.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1714" length="7m15m" name="VirginAdolescent BoysDrifters" number="" stars="" id="424" fa="Phil Steane (solo), D. Fife, Aug 1982.">
    A pleasant sojourn on the far RH buttress. Climb a short crack on the L edge, step R and up to the topThe off-width crack 6m R of D.N.A.
  </climb>
</guide>