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Guide
<guide version="3">
  <header access="Access is via the track from the LH end of the parking bay which crosses the Organ Pipes Track and continues on up the hill. Where the track meets the base of the Lower Northern Buttress (see Northern Buttress sketch map), go up R and follow a rough track around the northern side of Toy Town buttress and scramble uphill to the spire of Johnstone's Knob." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="There are a number of shorter buttresses to the north of the main cliffs that provide some OK climbing." name="Far North Area" rock="Short dolerite cracks and faces up to 20m" sun="Morning sun" walk="10 min from Northern Buttress" id="1"/>


  <text class="heading2" id="222">
    DNA Buttress
  <>Toy Town</text>
  <text class="text" id="233">>Toy Town    DNA Buttress is a smallgroup buttressof 30mfour steeplysmall uphillbuttresses andimmediately R from the top of theNorthern Pipedream Buttress and contains several short linesLower Cliff. The mostroutes prominentare isentertaining, Gearwith Freakeasy access, theand corner crackare described R to L. Descend tovia the L.central gully or lower off Nancy Boys.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="1218" length="8m12m" name="PancakesWe Can Jam Too" number="" stars="" id="2910" fa="Unknown.J. Fischer, J. Robinson, May 2005.">
    The flake on the wall L of Simple MindsSteep and potentially strenuous if you get it wrong. Start up the crack then follow the arête before moving L into the crack again when your feet are level with the horizontal feature. Jam the crack to the top, making full use of the arête. Abseil off.
  </climb>
  <text class="text" id="9">
    The next climb is on a small subsidiary wall immediately above Child's Play. Scramble up the gully between Nancy Boys and Child's Play for 4m, then turn L and up to the base of the crack, by a small sassafras tree.
  </climb>text>
  <climb extra="" grade="8 21" length="8m10m" name="SimpleWar MindsToy " stars="*" id="288" fa="PhilD. SteaneStephenson, Oct 1982J. Otlowski, Apr 1989.">
    A bomb waiting to drop. The shallowobvious cornerline chimneyup 4mthe tocentre of the middle buttress, just L of RheumatismChild's Play. Climb up thin cracks just L of the arête and move carefully past the semi-detached spike to a hands off rest on top. Step off L and climb the wall above.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1920" length="10m" name="RheumatismChild's Play " number="" stars="*" id="277" fa="SD. ParsonsStephenson, PJ. BiggOtlowski, D. Fife, Feb 1982Apr 1989.">
    Anti-inflammatorySurprisingly medicationinsecure mightmoves help! at the top. The thinRH line arête of the largest (middle) buttress. Start on the LH side of the central gully and climb up the arête toand the Lshallow ofcorner Gear Freakabove.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="1621" length="10m" name="GearNancy FreakBoys " number="" stars="*" id="266" fa="SR. ParsonsParkyn, PApr 1992.">
Bigg, D. Fife, Feb 1982." number="GF">
    Ten metresAn amusing encounter found on the arête L of pureBoys joy that ends prematurely. The hand crack in the prominent corner immediately L of D.N.A. Gets wider as you goToy. Start on the RH side of the central gully that leads to We Can Jam Too, and climb the arête mostly on the LH side via three bolts to a rap station. The ridiculously hard crux is the first few moves immediately off the ground.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1520" length="10m8m" name="D.N.A. " number=""Boy's Toy " stars="*" id="255" fa="D. BowmanStephenson, RJ. WellsOtlowski, DecApr 19771989.">
    JustCould Rbe ofdangerous. GearThe Freaknext isbuttress aL line(second withfrom athe suspendedR). bladeMove 3mR offacross the ground.face Climband toclimb the bladeR andarête uppast thea widelarge crack to the tophollow flake.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1417" length="15m7m" name="AdolescentVirgin Drifters"Boys number="" stars="" id="244" fa="Phil Steane (solo), D.Aug Fife, 1982.">
    TheA off-width crack 6m R of D.N.A.pleasant sojourn on the far RH buttress. Climb a short crack on the L edge, step R and up to the top.
  </climb>


  <text class="heading2" id="11">
    Johnstone>Johnstone's Knob
  <Knob</text>
  <text class="text" id="12">
    A >A number of short routes exist on outcrops in the Johnstone's Knob area. All routes can be located easily from near the Knob. Descend via the rap stations above the bolted routes, walk off or tape abseil the rest.
  </text>

 <image noPrint
 
  <text class="falsetext" srcid="great18">The red pointer.next two routes are found on Pipedream Buttress, a small buttress about 40m  uphill and southwest (L) of Johnstone's Knob.</text>

  <image src="DNAPipeDreamPrint.jpg" width="500" id="1321"/>
    null
  </image>

 <climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Shelter From The Storm " number="" stars="" id="20" fa="K. Kiernan, Nov 1975.">
    The other route on Pipedream Buttress. Climb the crack line around the arête L of Pipedream. Tricky.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Pipedream " number="PD" stars="" id="19" fa="D. Bowman, R. Wells, Dec 1977.">
    Climb a steep hand crack on the RH face past some difficulties in the mid section. Abseil off.
  </climb>

  <text class="text" id="1816">
    The >The next tworoute routesis are found on Pipedream Buttress, a small buttressface about 40m30m south uphill and southwest (L) of Johnstone'sthe Knob. and at the same level.</text>
  <climb extra="4Þ ↓" grade="21" length="12m" name=" Sergeant Slaughter " number="" stars="*" id="17" fa="G. Phillips, Oct 1995.">
    Pleasant climbing. 4 bolts plus rap station.
  </climb>


<text class<image noPrint="textfalse" idsrc="16">great     The next route is on a small face about 30m south (L) of the Knob and at the same level.
  </text>red pointer.jpg" width="500" id="13"/>
  <climb extra="3Þ ↓" grade="19" length="12m" name=" Great Red Pointer " number="" stars="*" id="15" fa="R. Parkyn, 1993.">
    Bizarre climbing up the side of the Johnstone's Knob that faces Northern Buttress. Involves using the arêtes on either side, sometimes simultaneously. Has three glued carrots.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="12" length="12m" name="Johnstone's Knob " stars="*" id="14" fa="Unknown, Sep 1961.">
    The prominent 12m spire that casts a spell on climbers and entices them over. There are several ways to the top. Rap station.
  </climb>


<image
src="DNAPipeDreamPrint.jpg" width="500" id="21">
    null
  </image>
  <text class="heading2" id="222">
    Toy Town
  <>DNA Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="323">>DNA Buttress is a small Toybuttress Town30m issteeply auphill groupand ofR fourfrom smallthe buttressestop immediatelyof Rthe ofPipedream Northern Buttress Lower Cliffand contains several short lines. The routesmost areprominent entertaining,is withGear easy accessFreak, andthe are described R to Lcorner crack. Descend viato the central gully or lower off Nancy Boys.
  L.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="1812" length="12m8m" name="We Can Jam TooPancakes" number="" stars="" id="1029" fa="J. Fischer, J. Robinson, May 2005.Unknown.">
    Steep and potentially strenuous if you get it wrong. Start up the crack then follow the arête before moving L into the crack again when your feet are level with the horizontal feature. Jam the crack to the top, making full use of the arête. Abseil off.
  </climb>
  <text class="text" id="9">
    The next climb is on a small subsidiary wall immediately above Child's Play. Scramble up the gully between Nancy Boys and Child's Play for 4m, then turn L and up to the base of the crack, by a small sassafras treeThe flake on the wall L of Simple Minds.
  </text>climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="218 " length="10m8m" name="WarSimple ToyMinds " stars="*" id="828" fa="D.Phil StephensonSteane, J. Otlowski, Apr 1989Oct 1982.">
    A bomb waiting to drop. The obviousshallow linecorner upchimney the4m centreto of the middle buttress, just L of Child's PlayRheumatism.
Climb up thin cracks just L of the arête and move carefully past the semi-detached spike to a hands off rest on top. Step off L and climb the wall above.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="2019" length="10m" name="Child'sRheumatism Play " number="" stars="*" id="727" fa="DS. StephensonParsons, JP. OtlowskiBigg, Apr 1989D. Fife, Feb 1982.">
    SurprisinglyAnti-inflammatory insecuremedication movesmight at the top. help! The RHthin arêteline ofup the largestarête (middle) buttress. Start on to the LHL side of the central gully and climb up the arête and the shallow corner aboveGear Freak.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="2116" length="10m" name="NancyGear BoysFreak " number="" stars="*" id="626" fa="RS. ParkynParsons, Apr 1992P."> Bigg, D. Fife, Feb An amusing encounter found on the arête L1982." number="GF">
    Ten metres of Boyspure Toy. Start on the RH side of the central gully that leads to We Can Jam Too, and climb the arête mostly on the LH side via three bolts to a rap station. The ridiculously hard crux is the first few moves immediately off the groundjoy that ends prematurely. The hand crack in the prominent corner immediately L of D.N.A. Gets wider as you go.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="2015" length="8m10m" name="Boy's Toy "D.N.A. " number="" stars="*" id="525" fa="D. StephensonBowman, JR. OtlowskiWells, AprDec 19891977.">
    CouldJust beR dangerous.of TheGear nextFreak buttressis La (secondline from with a suspended blade 3m off the R)ground. MoveClimb Rto across the faceblade and climbup the Rwide arêtecrack pastto a large hollow flakethe top.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1714" length="7m15m" name="VirginAdolescent BoysDrifters" number="" stars="" id="424" fa="Phil Steane (solo), D. Fife, Aug 1982.">
    AThe pleasant sojourn on the far RH buttress. Climb a short crack on the L edge, step R and up to the top.off-width crack 6m R of D.N.A.
  </climb>
</guide>