Page History

<guide 

guidestars="

**" 

pagesize="

200"

>

  <header 

id="

304" 

name="

Bicheno"

walk="

5-10 mins" 

sun="

Mostly morning"

 rock="Granite - Slab to Overhung" intro="The bouldering in Bicheno is located on coastal boulders. The boulders can be found at the Blowhole and run north for 300m to a large block with more at Peggys Point. The problems here, although limited in extent, are some of the best in the state. The rock is funky granite that is quite different from the rock at Coles Bay. Generally the rock is clean, except for barnacles.   

The majority of problems depend on a low tide and swell. See the Mercury or http://www.ntf.flinders.edu.au/TEXT/TIDES/TIDES/tas.html for tide predictions.

  The weather in winter here is amongst the best in the state, with lots of warm sunny days, which makes Bicheno a good escape from Hobart. In summer you

've got the sea right next to the bouldering to cool off in.

" access="Bicheno is on the east coast of Tasmania, about 2 and a half hours from Hobart or Launceston. It is about 35 minutes drive north of Coles Bay." camping="There are plenty of campgrounds, motels, shops and takeaways in town.

 "/

>
  

<image src="bichenomap.jpg" width="800

" id="4" height="

748"

/>
  <gps 

new="true" id="5">
    <point 

code="BIC000" description="Bicheno - The Block"

easting="608706" height="0" northing="5363100"

 zone="55G" latitude="-41.87655" 

longitude="148.31005" pid="0"/>
  </gps>
  <text class="heading2" id="6">The Blowhole Area</

text>
  

<text 

class="text" id="7">There are some great problems on the freestanding boulders and walls around the blowhole. Follow the signs off the main road to get to the the parking area for the Blowhole, then walk 50m out to the obvious block.

</

text>
  <text 

class="heading3" id="8">Blowhole Boulder</

text>
  <text 

class="text" id="9">There have been a few problems done here on the boulder next to the Blowhole.</

text>
  

<image 

src="Bichenoblow1.jpg"

id="

10" 

height="

275"/>
  <problem extra="       " grade="V?" name="       " number="       "

stars="       " id="11">Some easier lines have been done on the slabby side of the boulder</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="1."

stars="       " id="12"/>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V8"

name="Blow Job" number="2."

 stars="***" id="13">Sit start on small crimps up slightly overhanging face. Excellent problem</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="3."

stars="       "

 id="14"/>
  

<text class="heading3" id="15">Whale Boulder</

text>
  

<text 

class="text"

 id="16">This is the south facing wall about 40m south of the Blowhole.</

text>
  

<image id="329" src="

Bicheno Whale boulder.jpg"

height="

383" 

width="

800"

 legend="true" legendx="8" legendy="285">
    <drawing>
      <path 

id="

77339" 

points="

76.0,223.0, 42.0,186.0, 12.0,133.0," d="M76.0,223.0C62.4,208.2 53.6,202.4 42.0,186.0C30.4,169.6 24.0,154.2 12.0,133.0" linkedTo="18"/>
      <path id="3717" points="87.0,221.0, 97.0,101.0," d="M87.0,221.0C91.0,173.0 93.0,149.0 97.0,101.0" linkedTo="19"/>
      <path id="39527" points="215.0,236.0, 242.0,120.0, 265.0,82.0," d="M215.0,236.0C225.8,189.6 236.5,136.9 242.0,120.0C247.5,103.1 255.8,97.2 265.0,82.0" linkedTo="20"/>
      <path id="61424" points="382.0,236.0, 396.0,168.0, 381.0,95.0," d="M382.0,236.0C387.6,208.8 396.2,195.8 396.0,168.0C395.8,140.2 387.0,124.2 381.0,95.0" linkedTo="328"/>
      <path id="62687" points="510.0,247.0, 490.0,161.0, 515.0,95.0," d="M510.0,247.0C502.0,212.6 489.1,189.2 490.0,161.0C490.9,132.8 505.0,121.4 515.0,95.0" linkedTo="21"/>
      <path id="48312" points="679.0,289.0, 712.0,181.0, 714.0,127.0," d="M679.0,289.0C692.2,245.8 707.4,202.1 712.0,181.0C716.6,159.9 713.2,148.6 714.0,127.0" linkedTo="22"/>
    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>18</climb>
      <climb>19</climb>
      <climb>20</climb>
      <climb>328</climb>
      <climb>21</climb>
      <climb>22</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Sperm Whale" number="1." stars="*" id="18">Sitstart on low hold hit arete and up</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V10?" name="       " number="1a." stars="*" id="19">Project. Same start as no 1, blast high and right then up.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2/3" name="Minke Whale" number="2." stars="*" id="20">Flakes</problem>
  <problem id="328" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="3" name="NarWhale" length="" grade="v1" fa="">Undercling and up</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Blue Whale" number="4" stars="*" id="21" length="" fa="">Flakes to high topout. SDS is project</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Humpback Arete" number="5." stars="**" id="22" length="" fa="">Classic steep arete to slopey topout</problem>
  <text id="318" class="heading3">Old Man Boulder</text>
  <text class="text" id="23">This block is directly across from the Whale boulder:</text>
  <image src="Bichenoblow10.jpg" id="24" height="189"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="       " number="1." stars="       " id="25">Sitstart at flake and up groove</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="       " number="2." stars="       " id="26">Just left of arete, pull up through pockets.</problem>
  <text class="text" id="27">On the back of the same block:</text>
  <image src="Bichenoblow11.jpg" id="28" height="328"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="       " number="1." stars="       " id="29">Up nice flake/crack</problem>
  <text id="319" class="heading3">Warm Up Boulder</text>
  <text class="text" id="30">Across from the previous problem:</text>
  <image id="325" src="Bicheno - Warmup Boulder.jpg" height="342" legend="true" legendx="3" legendy="-1" width="600" legendTitle="" legendFooter="">
    <drawing>
      <path id="72474" points="" d="" linkedTo="29"/>
      <path id="96284" points="" d="" linkedTo="29"/>
      <path id="29199" points="139.0,226.0, 123.0,173.0, 118.0,118.0," d="M139.0,226.0C132.6,204.8 127.2,194.7 123.0,173.0C118.8,151.3 120.0,140.0 118.0,118.0" linkedTo="32"/>
      <path id="88404" points="240.0,219.0," linkedTo="33" d="M240.0,219.0"/>
      <path id="75542" points="286.0,215.0," d="M286.0,215.0"/>
      <path id="22091" points="282.0,214.0," d="M282.0,214.0"/>
      <path id="6168" points="287.0,214.0," d="M287.0,214.0"/>
      <path id="64627" points="286.0,213.0," d="M286.0,213.0"/>
      <path id="28353" points="288.0,212.0, 297.0,181.0, 298.0,134.0," d="M288.0,212.0C291.6,199.6 295.4,193.8 297.0,181.0C298.6,168.2 297.6,152.8 298.0,134.0" linkedTo="34"/>
      <path id="64558" points="" d=""/>
      <path id="74664" points="450.0,213.0, 464.0,110.0," d="M450.0,213.0C455.6,171.8 458.4,151.2 464.0,110.0" linkedTo="320"/>
      <path id="10649" points="501.0,215.0," d="M501.0,215.0"/>
      <path id="23976" points="506.0,190.0, 514.0,110.0," d="M506.0,190.0C509.2,158.0 510.8,142.0 514.0,110.0" linkedTo="321"/>
      <path id="65137" points="531.0,216.0, 545.0,128.0," d="M531.0,216.0C536.6,180.8 539.4,163.2 545.0,128.0" linkedTo="322"/>
      <path id="21634" points="226.0,216.0, 225.0,105.0," d="M226.0,216.0C225.6,171.6 225.4,149.4 225.0,105.0" linkedTo="33"/>
    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb/>
      <climb>32</climb>
      <climb>33</climb>
      <climb>34</climb>
      <climb>320</climb>
      <climb>321</climb>
      <climb>322</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V0" name="       Juggy Face" number="

1."

stars="" id="32" 

length="" fa="">Up juggy face</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" 

grade="V0" name="  Quartz Jugs     " number="2." stars="" id="33" length="" fa="">Up quartz jugs</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V0"

name="       Quartz Arete" number="

3."

stars="*" id="34" 

length="" fa="">Up steep 

quartz 

arete</

problem>
  <problem id="320" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="4" 

name="Bulge" length="" grade="v0" fa="

"

>Layback 

off the

 bulge, pull up through the ridge.</problem>
  <problem id="321" stars="" extra="(SDS)" 

number="

5"

name="Layback" 

length="" grade="v0" fa="">Layback on the crack.</problem>
  <problem id="322" stars="*" extra="SDS" number="6" name="Arete" length="" grade="v1" fa="">One handed start off the round arête hold, up through jugs. Can be campused for an extra grade.</problem>
  <problem id="323" stars="*" extra="SDS" number="7" name="Ironing Board" length="" grade="v2" fa="">Starts on the large horizontal overhanging flake. Start hanging underneath, work your way around and up to top out.</problem>
  <text class="heading3" id="35">Blowhole Walls</text>
  <text class="text" id="36">There are some great vertical and slightly overhanging square cut walls below and immediately to the south of the Blowhole. Most of these problems depend on a low tide and swell.</

text>
  

<image 

new="false" number="null." src="BackOfWhaleSmallArrows.jpg" width="" 

id="

37"

 height="245">null</

image>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="

V3" name=""

new="false" number="1."

 stars="" id="38">Style up the right side 

of the arete. Sitstart looks hard - V8?</

problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="2."

stars="" id="39">Step onto the wall and its done.</

problem>
  

<image 

src="Bichenoblow3.jpg"

 id="40" height="227"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4"

name="       " number="1."

 stars="*" id="41">Up from break to small pockets</

problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="       " number="2."

stars="*" id="42">Up from break</

problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="VE" name="       " number="3."

stars="       " id="43">Easy slab</

problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="VE" name="       " number="4."

stars="       " id="44">Easy slab</

problem>
  <image 

src="Bichenoblow5.jpg"

 id="45" height="258"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3"

name="       " number="1."

stars="       " id="46">Start on pockets just right of arete</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="2."

stars="       " id="47">Project - start from big flat hold</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="       " number="3."

stars="       " id="48">Up crack</

problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="V3/4" name="       " number="4."

stars="       " id="49">Up from underclings to pockets</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="       " number="5." stars="       " id="50">Easy slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="       " number="6." stars="       " id="51">Easy

 slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(

SDS)"

grade="

V3" name="       " number="

7."

 stars="       

" id="52">Awkward sitstart and up crack</problem>
  

<problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="V3/4" name="       " number="

8."

 stars="       " 

id="53">Awkward sitstart just left of arete 

and up to 

jugs</

problem>
  <image src="Bichenoblow6.jpg" id="54" height="300"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3

" name="       " number="

9." stars="**" id="55">Sitstart off low slot and up steeply to jugs</problem>
  <text class="text" id="56">This is around the corner into the next little zawn, below Blowhole Boulder:</text>
  <image src="Bichenoblow7.jpg" id="57" height="230"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V2/3" name="       " number="

1."

stars="*

" id="58">Sitstart

up 

flake to 

slopey topout</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="       " number="2." stars="       " 

id="

59">Face using big slots</problem>
  <problem extra="(

Stand)" grade="

V?"

name="       " number="

3." stars="

       " 

id="

60"

>Project 

- 

knob to 

shallow 

pockets</

problem>
  <image src="Bichenoblow8.jpg" id="61" height="379"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)

" grade="V4/5" name="There she blows" number="4." stars="*" id="62">Up face using high crimps (hard to reach) to slopey topout. The sitstart will be very hard if it goes.</problem>
  <text class="text" id="63">This is directly under Blowhole Boulder:</text>
  <image src="Bichenoblow9.jpg" id="64" height="272"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="

V0" name="       " number="

1."

stars="       "

 id="65">Layback up corner</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="

V1"

name="      

" number="

2."

 stars="       

" id="

66">Up 

arete</problem>
 

<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="       " number="3." stars="       " 

id="

67"

>Up arete</problem>
  <text class="heading3" id="68">Exploding Crystal Boulders</text>
  

<text class="text" id="69">These three free standing boulders are about 40m north of the Blowhole. The rock isn't as good as some of the other boulders and tends to be a bit gravelly.</text>
  <image src="Bichenoexplodingcrystal1.jpg" id="70" height="243"/>
  <text class="text" id="71">This is the side facing land:</text>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="       " number="

1."

stars="       "

 id="72">Slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" 

grade="V0" name="Exploding Crystal" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="73">Slab up highest part of boulder</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " 

number="

3." stars="       " 

id="

74"

>Slab 

with underclings</problem>
  <problem 

extra="(

SDS)" grade="

V?" name="       " number="

4."

stars="       "

 id="75">Project</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V2"

 name="Bohemian Crystal" number="5." stars="*" id="76">Sitstart at 

arete</problem>
  <image src="Bichenoexplodingcrystal2.jpg" id="77" height="248"/>
  <text class="text" id="78">This is the seaward side of the boulders:</text>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " number="

1."

stars="       "

 id="79">Slab</problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(

Stand)" grade="

VE" name="       " number="

2."

 stars="       "

 id="80">Slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="V2" name="

My Brown 

Dog" number="

3." stars="       " 

id="

81"

>Sitstart 

and 

up crack</problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(

SDS)" grade="

V?" name="       " number="

4."

stars="       "

id="

82">Project</problem>
  <image 

src="Bichenoexplodingcrystal3.jpg" width="800" id="83" height="339"/>
  <text class="text" id="84">This is the northern side of the boulders:</text>
  <problem extra="(

Stand)" grade="V2"

name="      

" number="

1."

stars="       "

 id="85"/>
  

<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V5" name="

" number="

2."

 stars="       

" id="86">Pull over the slopey shelf 

from sitting.</problem>
  <problem id="305" name="Left Cleft" grade="V8" 

extra="(SDS)" number="

3.

" 

stars="

*"

>Start on slopey protrusions at the base 

of the left cleft. Slap up and left to the lip and fight upwards.</problem>
  <problem extra="(

SDS)" grade="

V3" name="

High Tide" number="

4."

stars="

*" id="87"/>
  

<problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="

V1"

name="

Low Tide" number="

5."

stars="       "

 id="88"/>
  <problem extra="(

Hang)"

grade="

V4" name="

Drowned" number="

6."

stars="

" 

id="

89"

>Hang start on lowest hold on lip above overhang 

and slap up.</problem>
  <text id="307" class="heading3">Mushroom Boulder</text>
  <text 

id="308">This is next to the exploding 

crystal boulders, and the problem faces inland.</text>
  

<image id="

313" 

src="

mushroom.jpg" 

height="

281"/>
  <problem id="309" number="1." name="The Mushroom" 

stars="*" 

grade="V7" extra="(SDS)">Pull up using the crack and anything else, gain the slopey arete and then the top.</problem>
  <text class="heading3" id="90">Crab Boulders</

text>
  <text 

class="text" id="91">These boulders are about another 50m north of the Exploding Crystal Boulders.</

text>
  <image 

src="Bichenocrab1.jpg" id="

92" height="203"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?"

name="       " number="1."

stars="       " id="93"/>
  <problem 

extra="(

SDS)"

 grade="

V5" name="Hermit Crab"

 number="2." stars="*" id="94">A heel helps pull up the 

hanging arete.</problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="       " number="3."

stars="       " id="95">Slab</

problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2"

name="Mud Crab" number="4."

stars="       " id="96"/>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)"

grade="VE" name="       " number="5."

stars="       "

 id="97"/>
  

<image src="Bichenocrab2.jpg"

 id="98" height="306"/>
  <text class="text" id="99">This is the north facing side of the boulders:</

text>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="       " number="1."

stars="       " id="100"/>
  

<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2"

name="       " number="2."

stars="       " id="101">Arete over awkward landing</

problem>
  

<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="Giant Crab" number="3."

stars="*" id="102">Start off flakes</

problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

 grade="V0" name="       " number="4." stars="       " id="103"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " number="

5."

 stars="       " 

id="104">Go into the gap between problems 

1 and 2. There are four different slab problems in there.</problem>
  <text id="310" class="heading3">Gaston Wall</text>
  <image id="314" src="bichenogaston.jpg" height="281"/>
  <text id="311">Some way back towards land from the crab boulders is a nice face.</text>
  <problem id="312" name="Project?" extra="(SDS)" number="1." stars="**">Pull to a hard move from a thin gaston. V9?</problem>
  <text class="heading2" id="105">Suntrap Cove</text>
  <text class="text" id="106">Halfway between Crab Boulders and The Block Area is a small cove with 

several large boulders on the southern side.</

text>
  <text 

class="heading3" id="107">Suntrap Boulder</

text>
  

<text 

class="text" id="108">This is the smooth boulder closest to Suntrap cove. A short walk south along the Foreshore Walk 

from the 

Suntrap Cove roadside sign.</

text>
  

<image src="suntrapBoulderArrows.jpg" width=""

 id="109" height="333"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="V1" name="" number="1."

stars="" id="110">Up on flake.</

problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3"

name="" number="2."

stars="" id="111">Ugly first move leads to crimp and highstep. Best avoided.</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" number="3."

stars="*" id="112">Step onto hold/rock and head for the top.</

problem>
  

<image 

src="SuntrapBoulderNorthArrows.jpg" width=""

 id="113" height="333"/>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="

V2" name="" number="4." stars="" id="114"

 length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2017">Pull onto the face with a high foot.</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="

V4" name="" number="5."

 stars="" id="115" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 

2017">Start on slopey rail

 and head up through more slopes.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V5" name="Angry Penguins" number="6.

" stars="**" id="116" length="" fa="">Start right hand in the corner and left on the arete. One hardish move to gain a higher handhold on the arete then up to a mantle top-out.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="

V4" name="" number="7."

 stars="" id="117" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 

2017">Start in crack using right arete.</

problem>
  <text 

class="heading3" id="119">Sharp boulder</

text>
  <text 

class="text" id="120">This boulder is 100m south of the

 Suntrap cove boulder. It is sharper than most of the boulders in this area.</

text>
  

<image src="sharpBoulderArrows.jpg" width=""

 id="121" height="297"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="VE" name="" number="1."

 stars="" id="122">Move up left arete.</

problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="

V3" name="" number="2."

 stars="" id="123" 

length="" fa=""

>Start 

at base of crack using hold and crimp layaway. Move to top of crack layaway and then to the top rounds.

</

problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(

SDS)" grade="

V2" name="" number="3."

 stars="" id="124" 

length="" fa=""

>Sit-start on 

layaway and good hold. 

Up 

face 

to 

crimp, 

left 

hand 

arete 

and 

up.</

problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="

V4" name="" number="

5." stars="" 

id="

126" 

length="" 

fa="

"

>Start left hand on the undercling and step 

up into it. Just one move and then the mantle. Sit start would be hard.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" number="6."

stars="" id="127">Start on the obvious flake. Layaway and head for the top jugs.</

problem>
  

<text 

class="heading2" id="128">The Block Area</

text>
  <text 

class="text" id="129">Park at the little picnic area on the coast just south of the Gulch area and 300m north of the Blowhole. Wander down to the obvious square cut blocks.</

text>
  <text 

class="heading3" id="130">The Wall</

text>
  

<text 

class="text" id="131">This is the vertical wall directly opposite the Block</

text>
  <image 

src="Bichenoblock1.jpg" id="132"

 height="304"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3"

name="       " number="1."

stars="       " id="133">Using left arete and slopers pull to ledge. Sitstart might be possible, but very hard.</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" name="Another Brick in the Wall"

number="2."

stars="*" id="134">Start off 2 slopers, pull to ledge</

problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="       " number="3."

stars="*" id="135">Nice corner</

problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="V5" name="Wall of China" number="4."

stars="       " id="136">Thin face 1m right of corner, don't use corner</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V6" name="Berlin Wall" number="5

." stars="**" id="137">Straight up the middle of the wall on crimps with a throw to the top jug.</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " number="6."

stars="       " id="138">Corner</

problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="V2" name="       " number="7."

stars="       " id="139">Crack</

problem>
  <problem extra="       "

grade="V0" name="       " number="       "

stars="       " id="140">Diagonal crack around corner to right of previous problem</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V8" name="       " number="8."

stars="**" id="141">Traverse across very thin wall finish up 4.</

problem>
  <text 

class="text" id="142">The wall continues on around to the left:</

text>
  <image 

src="Bichenoblock2.jpg" id="143" height="219"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0"

name="       " number="1."

stars="       " id="144"/>
  

<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0"

name="       " number="2."

stars="       " id="145"/>
  

<problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V3"

name="       " number="3."

stars="       " id="146"/>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V1"

name="       " number="4."

stars="       " id="147"/>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)

" grade="V2" name="       " number="5."

 stars="*" id="148">Right to left traverse</

problem>
  <text 

class="heading3" id="149">The Block</

text>
  

<text 

class="text" id="150">This is the main free standing boulder:</

text>
  <image 

src="Bichenoblock3.jpg"

 id="151" height="353"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6"

name="Block Rockin

' Beats" number="1."

stars="***" id="152">On the boulder there is a completely blank overhanging face. This problem climbs the steep left arete on pockets.</

problem>
  

<image src="Bichenoblock4.jpg"

 id="153" height="300"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5"

name="       " number="2."

stars="       " id="154">Pull up off thin slopes</

problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name="       " number="3."

stars="*" id="155">Up off jug to slopes</

problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="V2" name="       " number="4."

stars="       " id="156">Up corner</

problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="V7" name="Road Block" number="5."

stars="**" id="157">Sit start on the big jug and pull through to the top on slopes</

problem>
  

<image 

src="Bichenoblock5.jpg"

 id="158" height="212"/>
  <text 

class="text" id="159">The opposite side of the freestanding boulder:</

text>
  

<problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V3/4" name="       " number="       "

 stars="       " 

id="

160">Just left of the arete pull up on flake and do a tricky mantle over the top of the steep face</

problem>
  

<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="       " number="1."

stars="       " id="161">Near left arete</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="       " number="2."

stars="       " id="162">Up slab</

problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="V1" name="       " number="3."

stars="       " id="163">Up flake</

problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="V2" name="       " number="4."

stars="       " id="164">Start as for previous problem but go right to pockets</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="       " number="5."

stars="       " id="165">Start in little depression and up slab using underclings</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name="       " new="false" number="6

." stars="" id="166">Up using undercling/crack.</

problem>
  <text 

class="heading3" new="false" id="167">Grey Dog Boulder</

text>
  

<text class="text"

new="false" id="168">This is the orange slab adjacent to the Block.</

text>
  

<problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number=""

stars="" id="169">Left side of slab</

problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="VE" name="" new="false" number=""

stars="" id="170">Crack in middle of slab</

problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number=""

stars="" id="171">Right side of slab</

problem>
  <image new="false"

number="null." src="BichenoProblem2.jpg

" width="" id="172" height="381">null</image>
  <text class="text"

new="false" id="173">This problem is just around to the right.</

text>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Grey Dog" new="false" number="1."

stars="**" id="174">Use the undercling to the top then head left.</

problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="Glory Hole" new="false"

number=""

 stars="*" id="175">In the middle of the back of the Grey Dog boulder, start down in hole, climb the nice flake.</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number=""

stars="" id="176">Start a couple of metres right of Glory Hole off the blocks. Sitstart off sidepull, move L up face.</

problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number=""

stars="" id="177">Easy cracks to R of previous

 problem</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number=""

stars="" id="178">Diagonal crack left of arete</

problem>
  <image 

src="Bichenoblock6.jpg"

 id="179" height="

267"/>
  <text 

class="text" new="false" id="180">This small boulder is just behind the Grey Dog boulder.</

text>
  

<problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="       " number="1."

stars="       " id="181"/>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V3"

name="       " number="2." stars="       "

 id="182"/>
  <text 

class="heading3" new="false" id="183">The Orange Slab Area</

text>
  

<text 

class="text"

 new="false" id="184">These slabs are about 40-50m east of the Block area and face out to sea.</

text>
  

<text 

class="text"

new="false" id="185">The Black Slab is about 20m left of the Orange Slab.</

text>
  

<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number=""

stars="" id="186">Prow around to the left of the Black Slab - looks nice but a bit scary.</

problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number=""

stars="" id="187">Crack on left edge of slab</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number=""

stars="*" id="188">Slab 1m R of crack</

problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="V1" name="The Black Slab" new="false" number=""

stars="*" id="189">Up middle of slab on nice dimples</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false"

 number="" stars="*" id="190">Slab 2m R on more dimples</

problem>
  <image 

src="Bichenoorangeslab.jpg"

 id="191" height="

284"/>
  <text 

class="text" new="false" id="192">This is the Orange Slab itself.</

text>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V2/3" name="       " number="1."

stars="       " id="193"/>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)"

grade="V?" name="       " number="2."

stars="       " id="194">Project - very thin up the steepest part of the face</

problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V6?" name="       " number="3."

stars="       " id="195">Project - Up thin seam on small flakes</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" name="Fully Sick Mate" number="4."

stars="       " id="196">Up thin slab</

problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="V1" name="       " number="5."

stars="       " id="197"/>
  

<text 

class="text"

new="false" id="198">20m right of the Orange Slab is a smaller lower angled slab - The White Slab.</

text>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number=""

stars="*" id="199">Diagonals on L side of slab</

problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number=""

stars="" id="200">Crack in middle of slab</

problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="The White Slab" new="false"

number=""

 stars="*" id="201">Nice slab 1m

 right of crack</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number=""

stars="" id="202">Diagonal on R of slab</

problem>
  

<text 

class="heading2" id="203">Peggys Point</

text>
  <text 

class="text" id="204">The following great free standing boulders are on the 

Gulch side of Peggys Point. Park near the Silver Sands resort and walk across the oval and down to the coast. The boulders are obvious if you are on the right bit of coastline.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="205">Abalone Boulder</text>
  <text class="text" id="206">This is the more southerly of the two free standing boulders. It has excellent fine grained rock.</text>
  <image src="Bichenoabalone1.jpg" id="207" height="339"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Crab Stick" number="1." stars="       " 

id="

208">From jug up left to flake</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Piece of Flake" 

number="

2."

 stars="**" id="209">Up large flake</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="Fish and Chips" number="3." stars="*" id="210">Arete and corner</problem>
  <image src="Bichenoabalone2.jpg" width="500" id="211" height="321"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V5" name="

Ab 

Diver" number="1."

stars="       " id="212">From 

the 

curving 

crack, 

pull up the face. V2 from standing.</problem>
  <problem extra="(

Stand)" grade="V1" name="

Lemon 

and 

Garlic" number="2." stars="

       " 

id="

213">Up

 face. SDS is a project</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

 grade="V0" name="Soy Sauce" number="3." stars="*" id="214">Corner left of arete</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="

Abalone 

Arete" number="

4." stars="**" id="215">Sitstart at the crack. Move left to the big undercling flake on the arete and up. Eliminating the crack from the start would make it harder.</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="

V1" name="

Flathead" number="

5."

stars="       "

 id="216">Crack</problem>
  <problem 

extra="(

SDS)" grade="

V8" name="

Hangman" number="

6."

 stars="*" id="217">Sitstart the face (rh pinch the undercling) and pull up to gain the short hanging crack. V1 from standing.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V2" name="

Mullet" number="

7."

stars="

" 

id="

218">Crack</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " number="8." stars="       " id="219">Face</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="

V2" name="

Kelpie" number="

9."

 stars="       " 

id="220">Crusty arete</problem>
  

<problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="

V3" name="       " number="

10."

 stars="*" id="221">Traverse 

the top lip right around the boulder</problem>
  <problem extra="(

Stand)" grade="

V5/6?"

 name="       

"

 number="

11." stars="

       " 

id="222">Project - Start at Mullet and traverse 

leftwards without using the top of the boulder to finish at Crab Stick.</problem>
  <text class="text" id="223">This small boulder is about 20m north of the Abalone Boulder:</text>
  <image src="Bichenoabalone3.jpg" id="224" height="372"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="Squid Rings" number="1." stars="*" id="225">Low sitstart and up jugs</problem>
  <text class="heading3" id="226">Crayfish Boulder</text>
  <text class="text" id="227">This free standing boulder is less than 100m north of the Abalone boulder, and has an overhanging east face.</text>
  <image src="Bichenocrayfish1.jpg" width="500" id="228" height="293"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="

V1" name="

Craypot" number="

1."

stars="*" id="229">Up jugs on hanging face. Project 

- 

start 

down 

in 

cave and climb 

up 

to 

the face.</problem>
  <problem extra="(Hang)" grade="V4" name="Craypot direct" number="2." stars="" id="230" length="" fa="Brendan Heywood Dec 2013">Start dangling on slopers over void, throw left heel into groove and mantle into left roof hold, link up onto face.&lt;br/&gt;</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V?"

 name="       

"

number="

3."

 stars="       " 

id="

231">Project</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Tricky Little Bastards" number="4." stars="*" id="232">Sit start in break and up</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="The Crayfish" number="5." stars="**" id="233">Sitstart at break and up groove using honker jugs. Brilliant easy problem.</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="The Belly Scraper" number="6." stars="***" id="234">Jump for the great jug and haul your arse over the top. More fun than a barrel full of monkeys.</problem>
  <problem id="315" stars="**" extra="(Stand)" 

number="

7" name="Crackpot 

Traverse" length="" 

grade="

V3"

 fa="">Start on the big jug on Crayfish and traverse around the horizontal line to finish up Craypot. At problem 3 (project) move between horizontal breaks using awkward jams. A great problem with a little bit of everything - juggy traverse, handjams, campus moves, deep water soloing and a slopey topout.</problem>
  <text class="heading2" id="235">Diamond Island</text>
  <text class="text" id="236">Diamond Island has some nice freestanding boulders and walls on its seaward side. To get there park at Redbill Point and walk north along the beach to the spit which connects the island to the mainland. At low tide you should be able to easily walk across. Walk around the southern side of the island for 5 minutes or so until you get the south east corner, where the boulders start.</text>
  <text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="237">Moby Dick Wall</text>
  <image new="false" number="null." src="spermWhale.jpg" width="" id="238" height="234">null</image>
  <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="239">This large sheared off wall is the first decent bit of rock you come to. I'm not sure of the names and grades of these problems, but they had chalk on them.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="240">Diamond Boulder</text>
  <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="241">This beautiful free standing boulder is hidden behind the red slabs to the right of the Moby Dick Wall. The first topo is the back of the boulder.</text>
  <image src="diamondback.jpg" width="" id="242" height="385"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Don&apos;t Say it Mr Trump" number="1." stars="" id="243">Sitstart up little corner on left side of boulder</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" number="2." stars="" id="244">Easy featured slab, also the descent</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="You&apos;re Fired" number="3." stars="*" id="245">Sitstart under arete, up on big jugs</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="" number="4." stars="" id="246">Up face just right of arete. The thin sitstart might go.</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="" number="5." stars="" id="247">Slab in middle of face. Sitstart might go.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" number="6." stars="*" id="248">Project - Sitstart up arete to tricky slab</problem>
  <text class="text" id="249">This is the front of the boulder, which faces the sea.</text>
  <image src="diamondfront.jpg" width="" id="250" height="367"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="" number="1." stars="" id="251">Project - start on high flat hold 1m right of arete. Up to flake and topout.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2/3" name="Jack of Diamonds" number="2." stars="*" id="252">Sitstart in corner and follow ramp rightwards, then up onto ledge</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name=

"Queen of Diamonds" number="

3."

stars="*"

 id="253">Up arete from awkward sitstart</problem>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="

V0" name="King of Diamonds" number="

4."

stars="**"

 id="254">Beautiful featured face.</problem>
  <text 

class="text"

 id="255">30m south of the 

Diamond Boulder is this little roof.</

text>
  

<image 

src="

barnacleroof.jpg" width="" id="256" height="375"/

>
  <problem extra="(

SDS)"

grade="

V3" name="Barnacle Roof" number="1."

stars=""

 id="257">Start on