Page History

<guide version="2"><header> 
  <header access="ToPrevious getaccess theused cragto yoube mustfrom crossthe privateend landof soGunners itQuoin is important that climbers respect the wishes of the landownersRoad. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Current access to Gunners Quoin is a little problematic, as accessyou couldneed potentiallyto becross aprivate problem.land Theto landownersget areto Denisthe Adamscliff (inwhich thelies housein ata thePublic endReserve). ofPrevious theaccess road)was andthrough Bob Hunt (whoLot owns156), theand landhe mosthas typicallymade crossedit byclear climbers).he Givedoes Bobnot awant phone-callanyone beforewalking youthrough gohis as,property. naturallyNegotiations enough,had hepreviously likesbeen tomade know when people are crossing his land and who they are. He isn't happy about school groups using the crag, partly because of the additional volume of traffic. Presumably this won't be a problem as this crag is quite inappropriate and dangerous for inexperienced groups (Rocky Tom is much better). As Gunners has always been a crag of interest to enthusiasts only, numbers have been small which has probably helped maintain access. To get there drive north up the East Derwent Hwy 6.2km from the Bowen Bridge to Baskerville Rd (not signposted, see the map in the Monkeys Bum section). Drive up this for 1.9km until where a side road leads off to the right. It is marked with a sign &quot;Private Road, Allen, Pullen etc.&quot;. After 1.6km the cliff will begin to loom above you, it's dark foreboding walls of choss sending shudders through your bones. Stop near the gate with the heavy chain, and walk from here, up the road past the chained gate. After a couple of hundred meters there is a sign saying &quot;No Admittance&quot;, head left towards the cliff." acknowledgement="by Roger Parkyn &amp; Matt Perchard, originally published in Craglets." history="" intro="This cliff has acquired quite a reputation for being a pile of choss. As well as a lot of choss there are also some good climbs though; mostly in the grade 19 to 22 region. The climbing is on dolerite but it does provide a good alternative to the Pipes as it is lot sunnier and is at a much lower altitude. Because of the presence of loose rock and absence of good easy climbs it is not a good place for beginners or groups." name="Gunners Quoin" rock="Chossy vertical dolerite, up to 50m high. Mostly trad, but a couple of bolted routes." sun="Afternoon sun" walk="15 min uphill" id="1"/><image noPrint="false" src="monkeys map.png" width="" id="2"/><climb extra="13Þ" grade="24" length="35m" name="Teen Spirit" number="" stars="***" id="3" fa="Nick Hancock, Doug McConnell, Roger Parkyn, Sarah Hedges Nov 2003.">Way up left of the other climbs described, on a white patch of rock visible from the highway.  Climb the face and roof to DBB. </climb><text class="text" id="4">The first routes described are on The Exploded Goat Buttress, a small buttress below The Unlevel Playing Field and to the L of South End. </text><climb extra="" grade="12" length="30m" name="Fat Lizard" number="" stars="" id="5" fa="J. Tiller, R. Marshall and R. Cockerill, Mar 1995.">Start around the LH corner of Exploded Goat Buttress in a small alcove. Mantle on top of block which overlooks the buttress, step around L into a wide chimney, bridge up and face climb to top of pinnacle. Follow face up and R to a large she-oak. Rap off. Suprisingly good. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="The Bulky Excavator" number="(circa. 2024) with the tenants of Lot 155 for cliff access. However they have since left and the landowner of Lot 155 has made it clear they do not want anyone accessing the reserve through their property. As such, current access to the cliff is currently unknown. Please respect the wishes of the landowners." acknowledgement="by Roger Parkyn, Matt Perchard, Fraser L-R &amp; Christoph Speer. Originally published in Craglets." history="" intro="This cliff has acquired quite a deserved reputation for being a pile of choss. However, there are some good climbs amongst this. A sunny aspect and a lower altitude makes it suitable for winter visitation.  However, avoid windy days. Because of the presence of loose rock, access issues and the absence of good easy climbs, it is entirely unsuitable for beginners or large groups." name="Gunners Quoin" rock="Chossy vertical dolerite, up to 50 m high. Mostly trad, but a couple of bolted routes." sun="Afternoon sun" walk="15 min uphill" id="1" camping="No camping please." autonumber="false"/>  
  <text id="77" class="heading3">Crag Steward</text>  
  <text id="76" class="text">Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (hobartcraglets@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.</text>  
  <gps id="60"> 
    <point pid="0" latitude="-42.77036" longitude="147.32213" easting="526353" northing="5264635" zone="55G" code="" description="Gunners Quoin"/>  
    <point pid="1" description="155 Gunners Quoin Road" latitude="-42.76877" longitude="147.31853" easting="526060" northing="5264813" zone="55G"/>  
    <point pid="2" description="156 Gunners Quoin Road" latitude="-42.77156" longitude="147.32042" easting="526213" northing="5264502" zone="55G"/>  
    <polyline pid="3" description="Track">-42.768724,147.317076 -42.768999,147.317666 -42.769503,147.318148 -42.769559,147.31832 -42.769322,147.319243 -42.769299,147.320262 -42.769929,147.321131 -42.769866,147.321292</polyline> 
  </gps>  
  <text id="52" class="heading2">Teen Spirit Area</text>  
  <climb extra="13Þ" grade="24" length="35m" name="Teen Spirit" number="" stars="***" id="3" fa="Nick Hancock, Doug McConnell, Roger Parkyn, Sarah Hedges Nov 2003.">Way up left of the other climbs described, on a white patch of rock visible from the highway. Climb the face and roof to DBB.</climb>  
  <text id="53" class="heading2">Exploded Goat Buttress</text>  
  <text class="text" id="4">The first routes described are on The Exploded Goat Buttress, a small buttress below The Unlevel Playing Field and to the left of the South Face.&lt;br/&gt;Left of Fat Lizard, routes have been done, but the rock there is too crumbly.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="30m" name="Fat Lizard" number="" stars="" id="5" fa="J. Tiller, R. Marshall and R. Cockerill, Mar 1995.">Start around the LH corner of Exploded Goat Buttress in a small alcove. Mantle on top of block which overlooks the buttress, step around L into a wide chimney, bridge up and face climb to top of pinnacle. Follow face up and R to a large she-oak. Rap off. Suprisingly good.</climb>  
  <climb id="65" stars="*" extra="" number="" name="Cramped Seat" length="60m" grade="16" fa="Fraser L-R July 2022, Lead solo">The best way to access the Unlevel Playing Field.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Start 4m right of FL on main face of buttress. Originally done as lead solo in one pitch but recommended to be done in two pitches. 1) 30m Up steep crack moving slighty left to follow LH crack, which has hands, fist and wide section. Get to ledge on pillar, good spot for belay. 2) 35m Series of ledges with some good moves. Finishes on LH end of unlevel playing field.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="The Bulky Excavator" number="" stars="" id="6" fa="T. Meldrum, J. McKenny and T. McKenny, Jun 1995.">A large block sits near the arête on the LH end of the Buttress. Start round the corner to the R of the block, L of a lichened wall, below an obvious corner line. Follow the main crack line through a small roof at the top. Rap from tree.</climb>  
  <text id="54" class="heading2">The Unlevel Playing Field</text>  
  <text class="text" id="7">The Unlevel Playing Field is a buttress of solid looking rock 100m left of South Face and about 50m above ground level. Previously access was possible by scrambling up the gully leading left from the left edge of South Face, this is looking pretty grim. Accessing via routes on Exploded Goat buttress will be nicer. A single bolt rap chain at the top of the large gully (just below the lunch boulder and to its south) facilitates an easy descent.</text>  
  <climb id="70" stars="" extra="" number="" name="Flying Arete Closed Project" length="" grade="" fa=""/>  
  <climb id="69" stars="*" extra="2Þ" number="" name="Sunshine Direct" length="25" grade="22" fa="Fraser L-R &amp; Anne Knox, Dec 2022">The direct finish of TSL goes up the bottomless corner to the left of the rooflet. Climb corner and clip chains of TSL to right.&lt;br/&gt;*Ill add its own dedicated lower-off soon*</climb>  
  <climb id="67" stars="**" extra="" number="" name="The Sunshine Line" length="25m" grade="21" fa="Fraser L-R &amp; Alex Lawson, Sep 2022">The striking thin crack that splits the most LH most pillar on the buttress, is the first piece of rock to get sun. A perfect hand crack turns thin, then goes around to the right of rooflet to gain another thin finger and handcrack to top. DBB.</climb>  
  <climb id="66" stars="" extra="" number="" name="20/20 Vision" length="25m" grade="15" fa="Fraser L-R, July 2022, Lead solo">Scramble up 3m left of EI, passing large gum, climb the double offwidth corner cracks to finish.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Economic Irrationalist" id="9" fa="Roger Parkyn, Apr 1993." stars="" number="">Start about 10m left of Man of the Moon. Scrambling for about 12m leads to the base of a hand crack. The hand crack is about 2m right of the medium sized gum that appears to be growing out of the rock half way up the cliff.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="24m" name="Man of the Moon" id="10" fa="Peter Steane" stars="**" number="">Start at the left end on the front face of the buttress. Climb the long outstanding corner crack, with a small roof to finish.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="24m" name="Hoons of the Baskerville" id="11" fa="Roger Parkyn, Aug 1991.">Follow the crack-line up the middle of the front of the buttress. At half height, pass a small overhang (crux) then follow the superb finger/hand crack above to easier ground.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="24m" name="The Unlevel Playing Field" stars="" id="612" fa="T. Meldrum, J. McKenny and T. McKenny, Jun 1995.">A large block sits near the arête on the LH end of the Buttress. Start round the corner to the R of the block, L of a lichened wall, below an obvious corner line. Follow the main crack line through a small roof at the top. Rap from tree. </climb><text class="text" id="7">The Unlevel Playing Field is a buttress of solid looking rock 100m left of South Face and about 50m above ground level. Access is possible by scrambling up the gully leading left from the left edge of South Face. A bolted rap chain at the top of the large gully (just below the lunch boulder and to its south) facilitates an easy descent.</text><text class="text" id="8">The Unlevel Playing Field is  a buttress of solid looking rock 100m left of South Face and about 50m above ground level. Access is possible by scrambling up the gully leading left from the left edge of South Face. A bolted rap chain at the top of the large gully (just below the lunch boulder and to its south) facilitates an easy descent.</text><climbRoger Parkyn, 1991." number="">*Death block*-ill remove soon.&lt;br/&gt;A fine and varied route. Start up the hand crack left of the arete that rises above the col (and lunch boulder). When the crack peters out move right to the arete and clip the first of two bolts. This is where the fun starts. The crux is right at the end.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="No Comment" id="13">Take the crack line left of the chimney. The start is steep. Further up the crack widens from hand size to off width. Thankfully the off width is not too tricky.</climb>  
  <text id="55" class="heading2">The South Face Lower Tier</text>  
  <text class="text" id="14">The wall behind Slope Buttress is known as the South Face. It is divided into an upper and lower tier by a prominent ledge at half height. The routes on the lower tier are split by an obvious approach gully up a loose scree field. Descent from these routes is usually best made by abseil.</text>  
  <text id="71" class="heading3">Left of Approach Gully</text>  
  <text id="73" class="text">Left of the approach gully are a series of routes on what is likely the best quality rock on the cliff.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1819" length="25m30m" name="Economic IrrationalistSmack" id="915" fa="Roger Parkyn, Apr 1993.">Start about 10m left of Man of the Moon. Scrambling for about 12m leads to the base of a hand crack. The hand crack is about 2m right of the medium sized gum that appears to be growing out of the rock half way up the cliff. </climb><climbDoug Fife.">Scramble up to the left of Jammin for De Lord to belay beside a large charred stump. Climb the crack above to a corner and then a roof to finish. Pull around left on jams, then belay on the large ledge (alternatively it is possible to avoid this overhang by passing to its left, making the climb one or two grades easier). To descend, move around to the left to find a suitable rap tree.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1825" length="20m35m" name="ManMalvern of the MoonStar" stars="**" id="1016" fa="Peter Steane.">Start at the left end on the front face of the buttress. Climb the long outstanding corner crack, with a small roof to finish. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="24m" name="Hoons of the Baskerville" id="11" fa="Roger Parkyn, Aug 1991.">Follow the crack-line up the middle of the front of the buttress. At half height, pass a small overhang (crux) then follow the superb finger/hand crack above to easier ground. </climb><climbEvan Peacock, Sep 1994 rebolted 2022." number="">Natural gear to the bulge followed by three stainless Us and more gear if you want it. The rebolter would like to apologize for not moving the first bolt. bring a kong panic draw.</climb>  
  <text id="68" class="text">Descent for following four routes used to be a tree at 17m, this is now fallen down. Either climb up gully of IUOAO at gr 16/17 to chain, or trend right from RM through thin cracks at gr 19.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2321" length="24m17m" name="TheJammin for UnlevelDe Playing FieldLord" number="" stars=" * " id="1217" fa="RogerGerry ParkynNarkowicz, 1991.">A fine and varied route. Start up the hand crack left of the arete that rises above the col (and lunch boulder). WhenFeb 1985.">Finger-lock up the crack just left of Illegal Use of an Opiate.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="17m" name="Illegal Use of an Opiate" number="" stars="" id="18" fa="Phil Steane (solo).">This is the crack petersdirectly out move right to below the arete and clip the first of two bolts. This is where the fun starts. The crux is right at the end. </climb><climbabseil tree. Pleasant jamming with good pro.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1722" length="20m17m" name="No CommentReefer Madness" stars=" * " id="13">Take"19" fa="Doug Fife.">Start at the crack line left of the chimney. The start is steep. Further up the crack widens from hand size to off width. Thankfully the off width is not too tricky.</climb><text class="text" id="14">The wall behind Slope Buttress is known as the South Face. It is probably the best piece of rock on the cliff and is divided into an upper and lower section by a ledge at half height. The climbs on the lower tier are described first. Descent from these routes is usually best made by abseil.</text><climb extra="" grade="19" length="30m" name="Smack" id="15" fa="Doug Fife.">Scramble up to the left of Jammin for De Lord to belay beside a large charred stump. Climb the crack above to a corner and then a roof to finish. Pull around left on jams, then belay on the large ledge (alternatively it is possible to avoid this overhang by passing to its left, making the climb one or two grades easier). To descend, move around to the left to find a suitable rap tree.</climb><climb extra="" grade="25" length="35m" name="Malvern Star" stars=" * " id="16" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1994.">Natural gear to the bulge followed by three hangered bolts and more gear if you want it. </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="17m" name="Jammin for De Lordsame place as Illegal Use of an Opiate but go rightwards into the corner which is capped by a roof at 5m. The climbing is superb; intellectual as much as physical. Rap off the tree.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="17m" name="I Need a New Drug" stars="" id="20" fa="TR Evan Peacock, Aug 1982. *rebolted 2022" number="">The face climb just right of Reefer Madness. Bolts were added in '92 to facilitate a direct finish (MDMA). These bolts help make the original route leadable although wires and small CDs are still required.</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="27" length="40m" name="MDMA" number="" stars="*" id="21" fa="Evan Peacock, 1993. *rebolted 2022">Direct finish to INAND. DBB lower-off.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="In a Different Light" id="22" fa="Evan Peacock, Jul 1985.">An excellent route. Climb up the big black streak below a bulge. There is a bolt under the bulge. Continue up for 5m past another bolt. Finish either to the left to a large ledge or directly through another bulge (or step right and rap off the anchor for Falling Shakes).</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="25m" name="Falling Shakes and Plummeting Sundaes" number="" stars="**" id="17" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Feb 1985.">Finger-lock up the crack just left of Illegal Use of an Opiate. </climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="17m" name="Illegal Use of an Opiate" number="" stars="" id="18" fa="Phil Steane (solo).">This is the crack directly below the abseil tree. Pleasant jamming with good pro. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="17m" name="Reefer Madness" stars=" * " id="19" fa="Doug Fife.">Start at the same place as Illegal Use of an Opiate but go rightwards into the corner which is capped by a roof at 5m. The climbing is superb; intellectual as much as physical. Rap off the tree. </climb><climb="23" fa="Grant Rowbottom, Apr 1993. *rebolted 2022">In Grant's words "easily the best climb in Hobart". Yeah, we've heard that before but the lad has found a real gem here. Very sustained, very techo and not easy. Follow the line of bolts to a bolted rap anchor. DBB lower-off.</climb>  
  <text id="72" class="heading3">Right of Approach Gully</text>  
  <text id="74" class="text">To the right of the approach gully are some nice crack routes on mostly good quality rock. Be careful of loose rock when moving about on the top-out ledges.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2220" length="17m35m" name="I Need a New Drug" stars=" * " Interstate" id="2024" fa="TRSteve Evan PeacockHamilton, AugSep 19821991.">The>Start facedown climbbelow justthe rightjammed ofblock Reefer Madness. Bolts were added in '92 to facilitate a direct finish (still being worked on!). These bolts help make the original route leadable although wires and small CDs are still required. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="27" length="40m" name="MDMA" number="" stars="*" id="21" fa="Evan Peacock, 1993."></climb><climbbeneath Deep End. Follow the broken corner to join Deep End at about 10m. From here move left and climb the thin crack and wall (crux). Continue up the corner.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2217" length="30m25m" name="InDeep a Different LightEnd" stars="**" id="2226" fa="EvanIan PeacockLewis, Jul 19851974.">An excellent route. Climb upnumber="">Classic crack cranking on the bigwall blackleft streakof belowHouse aof bulgeFun. There is a bolt underUp the bulge. Continue up for 5m past another bolt. Finish either to the left to a large ledge or directly through another bulge (or step right and rap off the anchor for Falling Shakes). </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="25line through the wide crack, then step left and ascend the hand/fist crack through the steepening at the top. Descend via DBB abseil station at RHS of ledge at top.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="FallingHouse Shakes and Plummeting Sundaes" number="of Fun" stars="**" id="2327" fa="Grant Rowbottom, Apr 1993Phil Steane.">In Grant's words "easily the best climb in Hobart". Yeah, we've heard that before but the lad has found a real gem here. Very sustained, very techo and not easy. Follow the line of bolts to a bolted rap anchor. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="35m" name="Interstate" id="24" fa="Steve Hamilton, Sep 1991.">Start down below the jammed block beneath Deep End. Follow the broken corner to join Deep End at about 10m. From here move left and climb the thin crack and wall (crux). Continue up the corner. </climb><climb number="">Don't be put off by the grass and vegetation, as this is a fine route despite appearances. Climb up cracks then crank through the steep juggy zone at half height (to the right of the prominent yellow overhang on the wall). The finishing crack has a thorny bush growing in it but this is easily by-passed. DBB at top.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2018" length="35m25m" name="HighwaySilly Buggers" id="2528" fa="Steve Hamilton, Sep 1991Pete Steane.">Climb the wall 1.5m right ofstars="*" number="">A bouldery start up the smallface pillarfor above3m Interstateleads (no pro') then step left onto the pillarto a stance on a small ledge. Climb the shallowtricky finger-crack for 3mabove, traversethen leftcontinue tofollowing athe groove line thento up to a large tree. </climb><climbthe DBB.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1821" length="25m" name="Deep End" stars=" * Don't Look Now" id="2629" fa="IanEvan LewisPeacock, Jun 19741986.">Classic crack cranking (mostly hand sized) on the wall left of House of Fun. The crux is stepping right to gain the steep finishing cracks. A rap chain beside the top of this climb provides an easy descent for this, and the next four routes. </climb><climb>If you want to do the boulder problem start it is advisable to scramble up to the base of Magic Number and place some gear in the horizontal break at 3m. From the break climb up the arete to a bolt (gear can be placed in the crack on the left). The crux is climbing up the arete near the bolt.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1820" length="25m23m" name="HouseMagic of FunNumber" stars=" * " id="2730" fa="PhilDoug SteaneFife.">Don't be put off by the grass and vegetation, as this is a fine route despite appearances. Climb up cracks then crank through the steep juggy zone at half height (to the right of the most prominent overhang on the wall). The finishing crack has a thorny bush growing in it but this is easily by-passed. </climb><climb number="">Technical (but non-strenuous) climbing makes this an interesting route. It is well protected, although small cams are handy. Climb the corner to a ledge, then continue to the main horizontal ledge system another 5m up, using the right crack (the one without the tree).</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1822" length="25m23m" name="Silly BuggersDown to Zero" stars=" * " id="2831" fa="PeteDoug Steane.">Even more vegetated than House of Fun. Climb the crack. Follow the crack up the wall/corner.</climb><climbFife.">A fine corner line. Clipping the fixed peg at about 4m provides most of the difficulties. An easy but pleasant finish leads to the ledge which crosses the cliff.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2123" length="25m20m" name="Don't Look NowInfidels" stars=" * " id="2932" fa="Evan Peacock, Jun 19861984.">If>Excellent youface wantclimbing to do the boulder problem start it is advisablebetween Down to scrambleZero upand to the base of Magic Number and place some gear in the horizontal break at 3m. From the break climb up the arete to a bolt (gear can be placed in the crack on the left). The crux is climbing up the arete near the bolt.</climb><climbNo Dams. Some good RP runners (if you think there are such things, Ed.) and a fixed peg (to the right) protect the lower section. When you reach the micro-overhang a metre or two past the peg, start moving rightwards to easier ground.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2012" length="23m20m" name="MagicNo NumberDams" stars=" * " id="3033" fa="Doug Fife.">Technical (but non-strenuous) climbing makes this an interesting route. It is well protected although skinny camming machines are handy. Climb the corner to a ledge, then continue to the main horizontal ledge system another 5m up, using the right crack (the one without the tree). </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="23m" name="Down to Zero" stars=" * " id="31" fa="Doug Fife.">A fine corner line. Clipping the fixed peg at about 4m provides most of the difficulties. An easy but pleasant finish leads to the ledge which crosses the cliff. </climb><climbC.Dawson, 1974.">Up the main corner to a ramp.</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="21" length="20m" name="Short Memory" number="" stars="*" id="34" fa="Evan Peacock, Jun 1984.">Climb directly up the wall to the immediate right of No Dams. Thankfully it has recently been retro-bolted by Evan but a large friend would still be handy near the top.</climb>  
  <text id="56" class="heading2">The South Face Upper Tier</text>  
  <text class="text" id="35">Located above the Lower Tier (duh). The rock quality on the upper tier is significantly poorer - be mindful of those below you.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2320" length="20m35m" name="Infidels" stars=" * Highway" id="3225" fa="Evan Peacock, Jun 1984.">Excellent face climbing between Down to Zero and No Dams. Some good RP runners (if you think there are such things, Ed.) and a fixed peg (to the right) protect the lower section. When you reach the micro-overhang a metre or two past the peg, start moving rightwards to easier ground. </climb><climb"Steve Hamilton, Sep 1991." stars="" number="">Climb the wall 1.5m right of the small pillar above Interstate (no pro) then step left onto the pillar. Climb the shallow crack for 3m, traverse left to a groove line then up to a large tree.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1219" length="20m25m" name="No DamsLove is a Drug" id="3336" fa="C.Dawson, 1974.">Up the main corner to a ramp. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="21" length="20m" name="Short Memory" number="" stars="*" id="34" fa="Evan Peacock, Jun 1984.">Climb directly up the wall to the immediate right of No Dams. Thankfully it has recently been retro-bolted by Evan but a large friend would still be handy near the top. </climb><text class="text" id="35">And on the upper tier of the South Face is ...</text><climbS.Eberhard, V.Wong, May 1991." stars="" number="">Start from the ledge where House of Fun finishes. It is hardest at the bottom. Start behind the small tree. Climb up the face to a small ledge then move right into a crack. Climb up this until it starts to overhang, then move right again to finish.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors note: This climb is included for historical reference only. Anyone else naming climbs with such outlandishly pukish names will not see it published in this fine piece of literature. Try Mills &amp; Boon.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1925" length="25m28m" name="Love is a DrugTrendy Dinosaur" id="3638" fa="S.Eberhard, V.WongVolker Jurisch, MayNov 19911993.">Start fromat the ledge where House of Fun finishes. It is hardestchains at the bottom. Start behind the small treetop of House of Fun. Climb the upcrack theand facethrough tothe aroof smallon ledgevery thenthin move right into a crack. Climb up this until it starts to overhang, then move right again to finish. </climb><text class="textholds (crux). Editor's note: I have some doubts about the description re location.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="25m" name="Cold Duck" id="3739">Editors note: This climb is included for historical reference only. Anyone else naming climbs with such outlandishly pukish names will not see it published in this fine piece of literature. Try Mills &amp; Boon.</text><climb extra="" grade="25" length="28m" name="Trendy Dinosaur" id="38" fa="Volker Jurisch, Nov 1993.">Start at the chains at the top of House of Fun. Climb the crack and through the roof on very thin holds (crux). Editor's note: I have some doubts about the description re location. </climb><climb fa="C.Dawson, 1974.">This is the continuation of No Dams. Chimney bridge and jam up the side of a large pillar. Step right onto the top of the pillar then finish up the easy corner.</climb>  
  <climb id="59" length="15m" grade="19" stars="*" name="Duck or be Dammed" fa="S.Goss, J.Parkes 2007.">A nice third pitch to follow No Dams and Cold Duck. From the Pillar above Cold Duck Step left and up face holds and underclings. Move right and up hand crack/s to finish at a large block. Walk off the east side.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="25m" name="ColdThe DuckGrump" id="3940" fa="CD.Dawson, 1974.">This is the continuationBowman, 1976.">This route takes the corner line between the large block overhangs up and right of No Dams. ChimneyStep right bridgeonto andthe jamarete upat the sidetop of athe largecorner. pillar.Tricky Steproute rightfinding ontoto the top. ofProtection is thea pillarbit thenthin, finish up the easy corner. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="25m" name="The Grump" id="40" fa="D.Bowman, 1976.">This route takes the corner line between the large block overhangs up and right of No Dams. Step right onto the arete at the top of the corner. Tricky route finding to the top. Protection is a bit thin, but good. </climb><text class="text" id="41">Slope Buttress is the small outcrop which stands out in front of the crag. It is the first piece of rock you will reach when walking in to the crag. The following three climbs are on it's front face. The South End lines are behind this buttress and to the left.</text><climbbut good.</climb>  
  <text id="57" class="heading2">Slope Buttress</text>  
  <text class="text" id="41">Slope Buttress is the small buttress which stands out in front of the crag below the South Face. Rock quality is generally pretty good. Descent from the routes is by walking-off (left or right).</text>  
  <image id="61" src="Gunners_Quoin,_Tasmania-lyle closs.jpg" height="610" width="400"> 
    <drawing/>  
    <legend> 
      <climb>44</climb> 
    </legend> 
  </image>  
  <text id="62" class="text">Lyle Closs hip belaying halfway up slope face.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Body Blow" id="42" fa="Hamish Jackson 1992. ">Start 3m left of Trap Door. Climb up to a rib of rock on the left side of the small overhang at 3m height. Pass the next overhang on the left then clip the first of two bolts. Move right to climb the prow of the buttress. The crux, passing the second bolt, is interesting and technical. Small CDs are useful in horizontals.Direct version 23?</climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="20m" name="Trap Door" number="" stars="" id="43" fa="Ian Lewis, 1974.">Start up the chimney behind a pillar to reach a ledge at about 8m. Climb the body crack above this through a small roof. Move right to finish up the crack left of Slope Face. </climb><climb Face.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Slope Face" number="" stars="" id="44" fa="Ian Lewis, 1974.">Climb a broken blocky corner to a ledge. Finish up the good clean hand crack on right wall. </climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Slope Head" number="" stars="*" id="45" fa="Ian Lewis, 1974.">Fine>An aesthetic line. Fine, well-protected corner climbing despite being slightly dirty. Excellent gear. </climb><text Start off the block accessed from the right.</climb>  
  <text class="text" id="46">To the right of Slope Buttress and in the gully is a slightly smaller face. This has just a solitary line on it.</text><climbtext>  
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="15m" name="Mixed Emotions" number="" stars="" id="47" fa="Phil Steane (solo).">This route starts in the gully on the right of Slope Buttress and is on the wall opposite it. The route can be recognised as it follows three parallel cracks going straight upwards. </climb><text parallel cracks going straight upwards.</climb>  
  <text id="58" class="heading2">Quadriceps Area</text>  
  <text class="text" id="48">To the right of South Face and Slope Buttress the cliff becomes even more inhospitable. About 80m further on and behind a large white gum tree are a couple of short lines.</text><climbtext>  
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="12m" name="Quadriceps" id="49" fa="Mick Steane, 1976.">Climb straight up the left-hand line (hand crack) of the two parallel cracks. Quite strenuous. </climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="12m" name="Hamstring" id="50" fa="Mick Steane, 1976.">The crack 2m right of Quadriceps which involves one wide section. </climb><text classclimb>  
  <text id="text75" idclass="51text">There are also some routes on the left end of the quoinQuoin (iei.e. quite a long way from the routes described in this chapter so far). Ibut havethe no info thatis isnot of good enough quality to publish on these routesyet. Apparently there is even a cliff there with route initials at the bottom of it. Thorough info on these routes would be appreciated for future editions.</text><text> 
</guide>