Gunners Quoin
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Acknowledgement | by Roger Parkyn & Matt Perchard, originally published in Craglets. | ||||||
Introduction | This cliff has acquired quite a reputation for being a pile of choss. As well as a lot of choss there are also some good climbs though; mostly in the grade 19 to 22 region. The climbing is on dolerite but it does provide a good alternative to the Pipes as it is lot sunnier and is at a much lower altitude. Because of the presence of loose rock and absence of good easy climbs it is not a good place for beginners or groups. | ||||||
Access | To get the crag you must cross private land so it is important that climbers respect the wishes of the landowners, as access could potentially be a problem. The landowners are Denis Adams (in the house at the end of the road) and Bob Hunt (who owns the land most typically crossed by climbers). Give Bob a phone-call before you go as, naturally enough, he likes to know when people are crossing his land and who they are. He isn't happy about school groups using the crag, partly because of the additional volume of traffic. Presumably this won't be a problem as this crag is quite inappropriate and dangerous for inexperienced groups (Rocky Tom is much better). As Gunners has always been a crag of interest to enthusiasts only, numbers have been small which has probably helped maintain access. To get there drive north up the East Derwent Hwy 6.2km from the Bowen Bridge to Baskerville Rd (not signposted, see the map in the Monkeys Bum section). Drive up this for 1.9km until where a side road leads off to the right. It is marked with a sign "Private Road, Allen, Pullen etc.". After 1.6km the cliff will begin to loom above you, it's dark foreboding walls of choss sending shudders through your bones. Stop near the gate with the heavy chain, and walk from here, up the road past the chained gate. After a couple of hundred meters there is a sign saying "No Admittance", head left towards the cliff. |
Teen Spirit 35m 24 13Þ Way up left of the other climbs described, on a white patch of rock visible from the highway. Climb the face and roof to DBB. Nick Hancock, Doug McConnell, Roger Parkyn, Sarah Hedges Nov 03.
The first routes described are on The Exploded Goat Buttress, a small buttress below The Unlevel Playing Field and to the L of South End.
Fat Lizard 30m 12 Start around the LH corner of Exploded Goat Buttress in a small alcove. Mantle on top of block which overlooks the buttress, step around L into a wide chimney, bridge up and face climb to top of pinnacle. Follow face up and R to a large she-oak. Rap off. Suprisingly good. J. Tiller, R. Marshall and R. Cockerill, March 1995.
The Bulky Excavator 20m 16 A large block sits near the arête on the LH end of the Buttress. Start round the corner to the R of the block, L of a lichened wall, below an obvious corner line. Follow the main crack line through a small roof at the top. Rap from tree. T. Meldrum, J. McKenny and T. McKenny, June 1995.
The Unlevel Playing Field is a buttress of solid looking rock 100m left of South Face and about 50m above ground level. Access is possible by scrambling up the gully leading left from the left edge of South Face. A bolted rap chain at the top of the large gully (just below the lunch boulder and to its south) facilitates an easy descent.
The Unlevel Playing Field is a buttress of solid looking rock 100m left of South Face and about 50m above ground level. Access is possible by scrambling up the gully leading left from the left edge of South Face. A bolted rap chain at the top of the large gully (just below the lunch boulder and to its south) facilitates an easy descent.
Economic Irrationalist 25m 18 Start about 10m left of Man of the Moon. Scrambling for about 12m leads to the base of a hand crack. The hand crack is about 2m right of the medium sized gum that appears to be growing out of the rock half way up the cliff. Roger Parkyn, Apr/93.
Man of the Moon 20m 18 Start at the left end on the front face of the buttress. Climb the long outstanding corner crack, with a small roof to finish. Peter Steane.
Hoons of the Baskerville 24m 19 Follow the crack-line up the middle of the front of the buttress. At half height, pass a small overhang (crux) then follow the superb finger/hand crack above to easier ground. Roger Parkyn, Aug/91.
The Unlevel Playing Field 24m 23 A fine and varied route. Start up the hand crack left of the arete that rises above the col (and lunch boulder). When the crack peters out move right to the arete and clip the first of two bolts. This is where the fun starts. The crux is right at the end. Roger Parkyn, 1991.
No Comment 20m 17 Take the crack line left of the chimney. The start is steep. Further up the crack widens from hand size to off width. Thankfully the off width is not too tricky.
The wall behind Slope Buttress is known as the South Face. It is probably the best piece of rock on the cliff and is divided into an upper and lower section by a ledge at half height. The climbs on the lower tier are described first. Descent from these routes is usually best made by abseil.
Smack 30m 19 Scramble up to the left of Jammin for De Lord to belay beside a large charred stump. Climb the crack above to a corner and then a roof to finish. Pull around left on jams, then belay on the large ledge (alternatively it is possible to avoid this overhang by passing to its left, making the climb one or two grades easier). To descend, move around to the left to find a suitable rap tree. Doug Fife.
Malvern Star 35m 25 Natural gear to the bulge followed by three hangered bolts and more gear if you want it. Evan Peacock, Sep/94.
Jammin for De Lord 17m 21 Finger-lock up the crack just left of Illegal Use of an Opiate. Gerry Narkowicz, Feb/85.
Illegal Use of an Opiate 17m 14 This is the crack directly below the abseil tree. Pleasant jamming with good pro. Phil Steane (solo).
Reefer Madness 17m 22 Start at the same place as Illegal Use of an Opiate but go rightwards into the corner which is capped by a roof at 5m. The climbing is superb; intellectual as much as physical. Rap off the tree. Doug Fife.
I Need a New Drug 17m 22 The face climb just right of Reefer Madness. Bolts were added in '92 to facilitate a direct finish (still being worked on!). These bolts help make the original route leadable although wires and small CDs are still required. TR Evan Peacock, Aug/82.
In a Different Light 30m 22 An excellent route. Climb up the big black streak below a bulge. There is a bolt under the bulge. Continue up for 5m past another bolt. Finish either to the left to a large ledge or directly through another bulge (or step right and rap off the anchor for Falling Shakes). Evan Peacock, Jul/85.
Falling Shakes and Plummeting Sundaes 25m 25 Þ In Grant's words "easily the best climb in Hobart". Yeah, we've heard that before but the lad has found a real gem here. Very sustained, very techo and not easy. Follow the line of bolts to a bolted rap anchor. Grant Rowbottom, Apr/93.
Interstate 35m 20 Start down below the jammed block beneath Deep End. Follow the broken corner to join Deep End at about 10m. From here move left and climb the thin crack and wall (crux). Continue up the corner. Steve Hamilton, Sep/91.
Highway 35m 20 Climb the wall 1.5m right of the small pillar above Interstate (no pro') then step left onto the pillar. Climb the shallow crack for 3m, traverse left to a groove line then up to a large tree. Steve Hamilton, Sep/91.
Deep End 25m 18 Classic crack cranking (mostly hand sized) on the wall left of House of Fun. The crux is stepping right to gain the steep finishing cracks. A rap chain beside the top of this climb provides an easy descent for this, and the next four routes. Ian Lewis, 1974.
House of Fun 25m 18 Don't be put off by the grass and vegetation, as this is a fine route despite appearances. Climb up cracks then crank through the steep juggy zone at half height (to the right of the most prominent overhang on the wall). The finishing crack has a thorny bush growing in it but this is easily by-passed. Phil Steane.
Silly Buggers 25m 18 Even more vegetated than House of Fun. Climb the crack. Follow the crack up the wall/corner. Pete Steane.
Don't Look Now 25m 21 If you want to do the boulder problem start it is advisable to scramble up to the base of Magic Number and place some gear in the horizontal break at 3m. From the break climb up the arete to a bolt (gear can be placed in the crack on the left). The crux is climbing up the arete near the bolt.
Evan Peacock, Jun/86.
Evan Peacock, Jun/86.
Magic Number 23m 20 Technical (but non-strenuous) climbing makes this an interesting route. It is well protected although skinny camming machines are handy. Climb the corner to a ledge, then continue to the main horizontal ledge system another 5m up, using the right crack (the one without the tree). Doug Fife.
Down to Zero 23m 22 A fine corner line. Clipping the fixed peg at about 4m provides most of the difficulties. An easy but pleasant finish leads to the ledge which crosses the cliff. Doug Fife.
Infidels 20m 23 Excellent face climbing between Down to Zero and No Dams. Some good RP runners (if you think there are such things, Ed.) and a fixed peg (to the right) protect the lower section. When you reach the micro-overhang a metre or two past the peg, start moving rightwards to easier ground. Evan Peacock, Jun/84.
Short Memory 20m 21 Þ Climb directly up the wall to the immediate right of No Dams. Thankfully it has recently been retro-bolted by Evan but a large friend would still be handy near the top. Evan Peacock, Jun/84.
Love is a Drug 25m 19 Start from the ledge where House of Fun finishes. It is hardest at the bottom. Start behind the small tree. Climb up the face to a small ledge then move right into a crack. Climb up this until it starts to overhang, then move right again to finish. S.Eberhard, V.Wong, May/91.
Editors note: This climb is included for historical reference only. Anyone else naming climbs with such outlandishly pukish names will not see it published in this fine piece of literature. Try Mills & Boon.
Trendy Dinosaur 28m 25 Start at the chains at the top of House of Fun. Climb the crack and through the roof on very thin holds (crux). Editor's note: I have some doubts about the description re location. Volker Jurisch, Nov/93.
Cold Duck 25m 16 This is the continuation of No Dams. Chimney bridge and jam up the side of a large pillar. Step right onto the top of the pillar then finish up the easy corner. C.Dawson, 1974.
The Grump 25m 16 This route takes the corner line between the large block overhangs up and right of No Dams. Step right onto the arete at the top of the corner. Tricky route finding to the top. Protection is a bit thin, but good. D.Bowman, 1976.
Slope Buttress is the small outcrop which stands out in front of the crag. It is the first piece of rock you will reach when walking in to the crag. The following three climbs are on it's front face. The South End lines are behind this buttress and to the left.
Body Blow 20m 21 Start 3m left of Trap Door. Climb up to a rib of rock on the left side of the small overhang at 3m height. Pass the next overhang on the left then clip the first of two bolts. Move right to climb the prow of the buttress. The crux, passing the second bolt, is interesting and technical. Small CDs are useful in horizontals. Hamish Jackson 1992. Direct version 23?
Trap Door 20m 15 Start up the chimney behind a pillar to reach a ledge at about 8m. Climb the body crack above this through a small roof. Move right to finish up the crack left of Slope Face. Ian Lewis, 1974.
Slope Face 20m 17 Climb a broken blocky corner to a ledge. Finish up the good clean hand crack on right wall. Ian Lewis, 1974.
Slope Head 15m 17 Fine corner climbing despite being slightly dirty. Excellent gear. Ian Lewis, 1974.
To the right of Slope Buttress and in the gully is a slightly smaller face. This has just a solitary line on it.
Mixed Emotions 15m 13 This route starts in the gully on the right of Slope Buttress and is on the wall opposite it. The route can be recognised as it follows three parallel cracks going straight upwards. Phil Steane (solo).
To the right of South Face and Slope Buttress the cliff becomes even more inhospitable. About 80m further on and behind a large white gum tree are a couple of short lines.
Quadriceps 12m 15 Climb straight up the left-hand line (hand crack) of the two parallel cracks. Quite strenuous. Mick Steane, 1976.
Hamstring 12m 13 The crack 2m right of Quadriceps which involves one wide section. Mick Steane, 1976.
There are also some routes on the left end of the quoin (ie quite a long way from the routes described in this chapter so far). I have no info that is of good enough quality to publish on these routes. Apparently there is even a cliff there with route initials at the bottom of it. Thorough info on these routes would be appreciated for future editions.
