White Water Wall
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Access | The base of White Water Wall can be reached by following a rough track which begins where the old road first meets the top of the cliff. From the cliff top, head north (along the top of the cliff) to follow an indistinct pad to a rock cairn that marks the start of the descent (100m or so from where you first get the cliff top). The descent can be tricky in parts. Head down via a series of steps to a big terrace which is directly north of White Water Wall (above Light Fingered Madison Buttress). Scramble behind the notch at the southern end of the terrace and down a short corner to the base of the wall. The large aplite dyke which crosses the wall from left to right is Apline. Again, the climbs are described left to right, but you'll encounter them right to left. |
1. The Inevitable Destruction 60m 11 This goes up the easy angled rock left of Leilani. B.Kennedy, D.Hain, Mar 75.
3. Slaughterhouse Five 55m 16 The second pitch of this popular route takes the crack that goes up the right hand side of the large roof at the wall's extreme left. 1) 20m. Climb Inevitable Destruction until level with the base of the crack on the right wall. 2) 25m. Move right across the large corner (Leilani) to the crack, up this to belay on ledge above the level of the roof. 3) 10m. Step right and easily up. D.Hain, B.Kennedy, Mar 75. Vonnegut's Finish (10m 17) After the main pitch, go up the corner for 3m to an horizontal crack that splits the steep wall on the left. Along this to the edge. Up the edge for a tenuous mantleshelf move to finish. Bill Baxter and Will Van Den Bosch, 17 March 08 (although may be the line climbed previously by Dave James).
4. After the Goldrush 70m 19 Start 8m right of Leilani below some leftward leading flakes. 1) 20m 16. Up the wall, then follow the flakes to a ledge. Climb straight up corner to ledge. 2) 15m 19. Traverse left under roof, then follow the diagonal up to a ledge below steep crack. 3) 35m 16. Follow the crack until it leads into Slaughterhouse Five. Kim Carrigan, I.Lewis, Jan 75.
5. Stretcher O'Neil 70m 19 Start as for Slaughterhouse Five. After climbing the crack for a few meters cross After the Goldrush, stepping right onto a knob on the face. Move up and slightly right with a couple of long reaches to gain a good ledge. Move up the face above on good holds and then right to a ledge. Above, trend left up to the ledge at the top of Slaughterhouse Five. N.Deka, A.Adams, D.Stephenson, Nov 90.
6. Resolution 10m 17 The obvious off-width crack above the first belay on After the Goldrush. Needs no more description. R.Thompson, R.Mansfield, Jan 78.
7. No Turn Unstoned 45m 19 Starts a few metres right of Resolution, it has a bolt at about 18m. Climb straight to the bolt, passing through a short, shallow corner. Straight up past the bolt, then slightly right and up over top scab to the finish. Considered poorly protected by some, despite the bolt at the crux, it is nevertheless a great climb. P.Cullen, W.Anderson, Jul 82.
8. Baystone Blues 45m 17 Poor protection, but good climbing. Begin just right of the start of No Turn Unstoned (easily locatable because of its bolt). Climb up with a slight right trend to directly below left hand big scab. Straight up over this to a break below steeper rock at top. Up crack in steep pillar. B.Kennedy, R.Muehlin, I.Lewis, D.Bowman, L.Closs, Jan 77.
9. Earthly Dilemma 45m 12 The first obvious crack line on the left hand side of White Water Wall proper. A few metres right of Baystone Blues. Climb the crack. Gritty, and possibly the only worthless route on the wall. P.Rakman, G.Holloway, Feb 76.
10. Apline 70m 12 This route follows the large aplite dyke which crosses the face diagonally from left to right. A landmark, and a total classic. 1) 36m. Follow dyke to ledge. 2) 34m. Follow dyke to top. K.Carrigan, S.Karpiniec (alt.), Jan 75.
11. Out of the Blue 45m 15 Climb the next crack right of Earthy Dilemma. Despite a pleasant start, it becomes awkward around a bush at 30m. Not the best climb on the wall L.Closs, I.Lewis, May 74.
12. Ultimate Conception 45m 10 Good beginners climb. This is the left line opposite the detached knob. It crosses Apline at about 8m. Climb the crack. Best done in more than one pitch. I.Lewis, L.Closs, May 74.
13. Lace Thunder 45m 12 The right hand line of the two near the separate knob. Climb to the big cave type hollow and out the top right of this then straight to the top. L.Closs, I.Lewis, May 74.
The part of the wall right of Lace Thunder has been climbed on in every possible spot. There is little harder than grade 14. Probably the best climbing of this grade in the state. Go for your lives.
14. Unnamed 50m 15 Although no first ascent details are known a commonly climbed route is the left trending line beginning at the extreme right of the wall. Finish up the last 5m of Apline.
15. Prancing in Pink 80m 19 On big ledge ~15m above platform on right hand end of White Water Wall. 1). Climb left to belay in Earthy Dilemma. 2). Keep traversing left past bolt on No Turn Unstoned and drop down to traverse along After the Goldrush. 3). Finish up Slaughterhouse Five. N.Duhig, G.Jordan, late, 1988.
On the walk down to WWW there is a little cliff about 12m high with a crack on a slant with a dead tree at the top.
The Light Fingered Maddison Buttress is the compact wall rising out of the sea to the north of White Water Wall. Best accessed by walking fifty or so metres at sea-level to the north of White Water Wall.
1. Mrs. D's Girdle 30m 23 The name tells all. Very good climbing. Start at Snotty Snake and follow the horizontal all the way past Light Fingered Maddison and Rent a Rocket. Continue across the final horizontal to finish. R.Clune, G.Tempest, Mar 1983.
2. Snotty Snake 10m 26 The line with 1 BR, on the left of the buttress. A pre-placed first runner and long sling on the bolt were used on the first ascent. Reputedly easier if you're a bit taller, but damn hard if you're not. E. Peacock, Oct 1995.
3. Animal Instincts Direct 15m 28 One of the best and hardest trad routes around. When the original route traverses right, head direct up the flaring cracks above. G. Phillips, S.Young, 2007.
4. Animal Instincts 15m 25 The crack 3m left of Light Fingered Maddison. Follow this until it ends, then move right to the undercling (crux) and straight up. S.Parsons, 1987.
5. Light Fingered Maddison 15m 20 Just left of the water are some right trending diagonals, below a sentry box. Climb the diagonals into the sentry box, then straight to the top. Well protected, excellent climbing. N.Smith, N.Deka, F.Moon, R.McMahon, 1981.
6. Rent a Rocket 15m 23 Out of the water just right of Light Fingered Maddison (judge the tide and waves carefully). Lurch out of the sea and up the rib to gain the crack. Continue up the diagonal then the vertical shallow seam crack above to the top. Glen Tempest, R.Clune, Mar 83.
8. Knocked in Rock 15m 15 Starts on the yellow stained rock at the right hand end of the Light Fingered Maddison wall. Rap to a small ledge near sea level 3m to the right of the large groove. Up the flake crack to the large ramp, then climb the overhanging yellow wall on jugs to finish up a shallow corner on the slab. J.Lamb, Pete Steane, Oct 82.
Above the Light Fingered Maddison Buttress is a short bolted climb. It doesn't look very good, but in this case looks are deceiving. To find the climb look at the cliffs above Light Fingered Maddison and spot the u-bolts.
Dislocator Beta 12m 25 Þ Climb past the three bolts to the no-hand rest on the ledge above. Either finish direct or bail left and up. It's not that difficult direct (19), but you do risk a ground fall. There's a tree at the top to belay or rap off, or you can scamper off to the north. Nick Hancock, Apr 02.
The short crack line to the right of Dislocator Beta is about grade 16 and is pretty cruisy apart from a strenuous top out. Descend/belay as for Dislocator Beta.
These routes are described in relation to the Prow, the prominent orange buttress on the point about 100m north of the Light Fingered Maddison wall. It is clearly visible from the top of White Water Wall. Best approached by walking down a gully just north of the Prow and then walking back along the shelves.
The first 3 routes are on the buttress south of the Prow, overhanging at the base with a slab on the right wall.
1. Quadrella 18m 15 The crack on the arête, gained by climbing into the overhanging slot left of the arête and then stepping right onto the nose and up the arête. D, L.Stephenson, J, Marg Otlowski, Dec 90.
2. Crank 18m 20 Just right of the arête. Bouldery start and up the right diagonal crack. Back left to the horizontal break and up the seam just right of the arête. It's a bit contrived avoiding the easy crack on the left, but fun off the ground. D.Stephenson, J.Otlowski, Dec 90.
3. Quartet 18m 17 The slab right of the arête. Pull up on to the slab, climb to the horizontal break and head right up the ramp. D, L.Stephenson, J, Marg Otlowski, Dec 90.
4. The Prow 22m 20 The prominent orange capped arête, overhanging at base. Climb up to the left side of the buttress, move right, up the steep flake, to a stance on the nose. Climb a few feet up the left hand seam, step right across the slab, and follow the thin crack on the arete to the top. D.Stephenson, J & M. Otlowski, Dec 90.
5. Gangabang 22m 16 The wall right of The Prow. Climb a pillar and cracks to finish up thin cracks just right of The Prow arête. D.Stephenson, J & M.Otlowski, Dec 90.
Morning Glory Rocks (which get the early rising sun) are situated above The Prow. Access is down the White Water Wall track to the point where it leaves the she-oaks but before descending the wide rock gully. At this point go north for 20 meters.
Glory Days 14m 19 Up the center of the first Rock. The thin crack with an overhanging start. R. McMahon.
Darling, Don't Get Upset, Cuddle Me Instead 8m 16 On the Second Rock, the thin crack a meter to the right of the off-width. Bill Baxter, Dennis Kearnes and Alan Williams, Oct 03.
What A Weapon 7m 20 At the right hand end of the Second Rock is a cosmetic RP crack. Up to this, then jugs at the top. Dennis Kearnes and half of Launceston, Oct 03.
To find the following climbs head pretty much straight downhill, northish, from the campsite opposite the toilet. You'll follow a ridge type feature down to an orange block. Head around to the left of this and go back right when you get near the water. You'll end up in a small zawn. Tango Towers is predominantly in the shade.
A Friend in Need 20m 20 Deep in the zawn is a roof with an obvious horizontal line below it. This route is a hand traverse of this line, from right to left. The first pitch is fun, the second is crap and loose, I've included it only as a deterrent to any would-be suitors keen to get their name in the book - don't go near it, it's worthless and been done. 1) Follow the horizontal line from right to left, finishing on the slab. Gear and rock are good. 2) Grab the jug, chin up to the layaway and head on up. Gear and rock are crap. Nick Hancock, Andrew Bissett, Apr 01.
One Move Wonder 12m 22 On the next pinnacle right. Start at the groove on the right of the face. A few tricky moves up left (crux) lead to the horizontal. Easier climbing leads to the top. Nick Hancock, Oct 00.
Sling Your Hook 15m 20 On the next pinnacle to the right. Start on the left of the face. Head up for a few meters and work right to the arête at the horizontal. Follow the arête and face to the next horizontal, and then the line to the top. Protection is not great, but a sneakily slung spike edge may ease the tension for a while (until it falls off when you're in the middle of the crux). Nick Hancock, Aug 00.
The Small Things In Life 12m 21 The thin left trending seam 3m left of Up the Ante. Up past an undercling flake, to follow the seam left to the arête. A tricky mantle leads to the top. The gear on this route is not great (small hard to arrange RP's), but the climbing is good. Nick Hancock, Carol Hurst, Aug 00.
Up the Ante 12m 18 Approximately 14m left of All Hands to the Pump. The right hand arête of the next pinnacle. The crux is off the ground and the gear after this is good. N.Hancock, C.Hurst, Oct 00.
Orange Crush 10m 20 Clip the bolt and climb the face to another via the tricky start. Follow the holds up and left, crossing the wide diagonal crack ( 4 camalot) to gain a third bolt. Head past this up the orange face to the top (mid-sized cams to belay). R.Parkyn, A.Bissett, N.Hancock, Aug 02.
All Hands to the Pump 15m 22 On the semi-detached orange topped pinnacle nearest the sea. Start up the line on the east to gain a ledge. Continue steeply through the bulge and on to the top via the sparsely protected open groove. N.Hancock, C.Hurst, Aug 00.
If you are looking at the Tango Towers from the sea, around on the RHS towards Bluestone Bay is a 6m high, gently overhanging wall with a striking crack spliting in the middle. It is about 2 minutes' walk from the Tango Towers main area. These four climbs are on this wall.
1. Generation Y 6m 18 On the left hand side on the wall there is a thrutchy pink band. Up this. Move right to top out. Will Bartlett and Alex Lewis, Sep/09
2. Generation O 6m 19 The thin, striking crack. Quite a nice bouldery sequence straight off the ground with some dynamic moves. Once the juggy horizontal break is reached, top out straight up. Red and Green C3's protect the lower moves. Alex Lewis and Will Bartlett, Sep/09
