These nice boulders are one of the best spots for after work bouldering in Hobart. They also stay reasonably warm on winter afternoons, but seep after heavy rain.
Follow the map and park where marked, at the gate off Aruma St. Walk up the road to the reservoir. Skirt around on the left and follow some dirt tracks to directly behind the reservoir. The top of the boulder is another 20 - 30 meters just before the hill drops off, facing down the hill towards the highway. The rock is a little sandy in places, but the access is very easy, so its worth a look.
Be careful of the rock here after rain - quite a few holds have broken off when they have been damp.
Waverly Park on the eastern shore of Hobart provides some nice sandstone problems with easy access. The park contains four areas - Rosny Rocks, The Reservoir, Bellerive Boulder, and Clarence Crag.
GPS |
|
Drive over the Tasman Bridge to Rosny. Just after you pass the shopping centre you will reach a roundabout. Turn left at this and continue past a couple sets of traffic lights, then turn right onto Quarry Road. Drive to the end of this road and park at the gate of Waverly Park. The boulders are visible up the hill on the left. Walk up the track for a few minutes and then turn left onto another track just before a large stump. This track goes pretty well straight to the boulders and takes about 5 minutes. Follow the line of boulders to the left to the obvious overhanging prow on the first topo. There are a few more easy problems on the aretes and slabs up to the left.
4. Chipped V? (Highball, SDS) The steepest section of the overhang is very hard on small holds. The landing is pretty bad though, so a top rope may be prudent as the hardest moves are at the top. The Jacksons have managed to do this problem without using the chipped holds as 'a worthy statement against the absolutely crap chipping effort'.
5. Carunga V10 (SDS) Start on the jug on the right side of black cave behind the steep prow. Traverse leftward on small pockets
The vertical wall to the right. The following problems all have lichenous topouts, brush them before climbing.
Further down to the right are the first rocks you encounter when accessing the area. The landing is pretty bad.
The small boulder to the left of the main face has a couple of short and very easy problems good for absolute beginners or kids.
2. V? (Stand) Project - start as for Mr Brown and traverse the whole crag rightwards to finish up Scorpions
5. Mr Blonde V2 (SDS) Start at right side of face, up and slightly left to jug then straight up left side of groove to top out
5a. V2 (SDS) Start as for Mr Blonde up to the jug, then traverse leftwards along the line of jugs, and finish up Mr Brown. A great warm up.
6. V4 (SDS) Start as for Mr Blonde, but go right up seam then up right side of groove to desperate top out.
7. Early Minute V5 (SDS) Start as for no. 6. but traverse rightwards on thin holds along lip to finish up Reservoir Dogs
8. Nice Guy Eddie V5 (SDS) Up diagonal crack from awkward sitstart, either on slopers or underclings. Most people use the big flat sloper on Reservoir Dogs as well.
8a. Big Gay Al V7 (SDS) Start as for Nice Guy Eddie, at the start of the crack. Move up to side pull / underclings in crack then straight up using sandy pinch. Up to lip then exit up right.
9. Reservoir Dogs V3 (SDS) Sit start on the big flat slope and up. Some people think this is pretty hard for V3, but my response is - go see how hard a V3 is in Hueco!
1. Dis-Abeled V6 (SDS) SDS on the jug, climb straight up, avoiding the left hand diagonal. Can be done as a stand start at about V3.
2. V? (SDS) Project - sit start just right of the arete, up to lip then straight up line of slopey side pulls. Mega hard.
3. V7 (SDS) Start as for Scorpions, traverse left and finish up Reservoir Dogs, may be easier in the cold
4. V7 (Stand) Stand start using slopes on top of roof and go left to top out. A sit start project exists
A new area that is development. On the same hill as the Reservoir, facing Clarence and Bellerive. Some nice sloper problems and highballs.
This area has a handful of good problems. It is on the hill facing Bellerive, and tends to be a bit wet and cold in winter. To get there park as for Rosny Rocks, in Carawa Street. Walk up the track to the top of the hill, then turn left on to a sandy track. Keep going straight ahead on the foot pad which ends up at the top of the boulder.
1. The David Boon Memorial Traverse V? (Stand) Project - from the far left of the boulder traverse L-R to finish up Joker's. Very hard past the arete.
2. Calcutta V4 (SDS) Sitstart at two pockets on the left hand edge of the boulder and up over bulge, going left to finish (going right is harder)
3. Bowling for Columbine V5/6 (SDS) Sitstart on good flat hold, right to double pockets and up to slopes on lip
