The Velvet Underground
|
| ||||||
Acknowledgement | by Nick Hancock | ||||||
Access | From the Granville harbour Road travel 3 km along Climes Track to the top of a steeper section (where it gets too rough for 2WD vehicles). Walk along Climes Track down to the creek. At the creek look for a smaller track on the right which connects with another track paralleling the coast. Continue walking south on it for half an hour to a 30m high cliff set back 50 m from the coast and above a pond. Guesstimated position in AGD 66 is 341200 E; 5363200 N. |
Sweet Jane 25m 24 Climbs the pillar with a wide horizontal break at half height, on the left side of the cliff. Technical moves past six glued carrots. Nick Hancock. Feb, 2006.
Heroin 25m 26 1) 10m 26 Climb the very thin seam past two glued carrots to a belay on the right. 2) 15m 17 Follow the corner above trending left onto the arête to finish.Nick and Heather Hancock, Feb, 2006.
Sunday Morning Direct 30m 24 Climbs the overhanging groove direct to the slab, instead of traversing in from the left. Nick Hancock Feb, 2007.
I’ll Be Your Mirror 25m 20 Thin cracks on good wires then carefully up the easy slab above. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004.
Sunday Morning 25m 22 Follow the right trending diagonal off blocks to the flared vertical cracks. Follow these to a glued carrot and a thin move over a bulge. Climb up to a deep flared crack (4 Camalot) and another bolt on the final slab. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004.
Venus In Furs 25m 24 Climb the brutal fist crack to shrubbery. Go left to another crack then back right to a black groove through the final tier. 4, 5 & 6 friend-sized cams essential. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004.
Waiting For The Man 25m 26 Climb a very thin crack up a prow past 4 glued carrots to another on the pocketed wall above. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004.
I’m Beginning to See the Light 25m 18 Climb a right trending ramp (4 & 5 Camalot) to open grooves (4 glued carrots). Sarah Hedges & Nick Hancock Jan 2004.
Black Angels Death Song 25m 19 Near the top of the rocky gully on the right side of the crag climb a left trending crack to an easy finish. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004.


