The Star Factory
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Acknowledgement | by Jake Bresnehan and Nick Hancock. | ||||||
Introduction | The Star Factory is unique in Australian climbing in that it has a large number of very high quality climbs from 21 to 32 on good granite that is highly featured with holds of all shapes and sizes, in addition to the more usual cracks. The Star Factory is now the best (hard) sport crag in Tassie and arguably one of the best in Australia. All the bolted sport climbs have double bolt belays at the top, from which it is advised to lower off as there is loose gravel above the top of the cliff. Winter days are the best, climbing in the sun with a nice southerly wind. You can climb in the summer but is best after about 2pm. The projects are all closed, but feel free to put in the blood, sweat and tears to put your own up. Be careful on the slabs at the base of the routes. If you stuff up, you probably won't wake up again. In the wet they are even worse! | ||||||
History | The cliff now known as the Star Factory was first climbed on by the Jackson Brothers in 1994, when they wandered up a modest corner towards the left end of the wall. They returned in early 2002 to finish off their previous climb to create The Adjuster (21), and added another, Glass Tier (22). These were the only routes on the cliff until Nick Hancock re-discovered it in early 2003. He tried to keep it a secret and even managed to pick off a few of the best lines with Doug McConnell until the motor-mouth Jake Bresnehan got hold of the rumour and passed it on to Garry Phillips, who then marched up there and tore the place apart. Garry has put up about half the routes to date and is responsible for most of the hardest routes. | ||||||
Access | Access is by following The Skyline Traverse from Sleepy Bay for 35 minutes until a distinct col is reached below the slabs leading up to Wombat Crags. From here head left and down, below a steep wall, then head south to above the cliff. There is a steep scramble at the far right hand side and abseil anchors above some of the right hand climbs. Access along the foot of the crag is straightforward except for a 30 meter section left from Ferret on a Leash, where it is necessary to rope up as the slabs below the wall shelve steeply to the sea over 70 meters below. Routes are described R to L, as you come to them. |
GPS |
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a2. Chris the Porn King 15m 24 6Þ Climb the Access route till the ledge. Double bolt belay. Climb the top pitch up via some cool moves on not the best quality rock. Not a bad little route. Harder if you are short. Garry Philips 2003.
a3. Naturally Blond 15m 23 (Natural Gear) Follow the crack left of Chris The Porn King to the roof. Head right to pass the roof and follow the thin layback to the double bolt belay. Al Williams 2004.
b1. The Reason 20m 26 6Þ Climb a grade 15 crack for 8 meters to gain the big ledge. A wicked striking corner. Classic. Maybe the best 26 at the factory. Doug McConnell 2003.
c1. Pot Bellied Whale 25m 25 10Þ Layback the pillar. Up the arête. Not that good. Nick Hancock 2003.
c2. Soft Option 20m 28/29 8Þ Same start as Street Fighter. Head right at the top of the chimney. Garry Phillips 2004.
c3. Street Fighter 20m 28 8Þ Grovel up the chimney until you can get out onto the left face. Power out on the underclings and then up. A bit of a power endurance classic. Garry Phillips 2003.
c5. Street Fighter 2 20m 29 Þ Climb the first 3 bolts of Antimatter then break right and up to join Street Fighter. A bit sharp, and just adds a little bit. Probably grade 26 to join Street Fighter. Jake Bresnehan 2004.
c6. Antimatter 25m 23 Þ A classic of the grade. Climb up flakes/jugs till about two meters from the roof. A tricky section leads into the roof. Then suck up some air and crank around on big side pulls and glassy feet. Super warm up. For those whom it's not a warm up it could be 24. Doug McConnell 2003.
Matter of Fact 25/6 Þ For when you get bored of Antimatter. At the roof of Antimatter head left past 1 bolt via some moves. Garry Phillips 2007.
c7. Decafe 28m 27 Þ Climb Power Of The Percolator until you reach the roof with a fixed hanger at about half hight. Climb right and finish up Antimatter. Really fun, worth doing. You will be sucking up for air if you are unfit. Garry Phillips 2006.
c8. Power Of The Percolator 28m 28 8Þ This could be the best 28 in Tassie. A must do! Garry Phillips 2003.
c9. Grand Slam 25m 30 9Þ Start as for Power of the Percolator but head left. Lowers off the 2nd last bolt and needs to be extended. Garry Phillips 2003.
Juicebox 20m 22 2Þ + Natural Gear The obvious corner to the Right of Kim's Project. Up past two bolts into the corner. Up this to the lower-off for Kim's Project. Gear from tips to #1 Camalot. S.Young Apr 2009
d1. Kim's Project Up the slab. Looks classic. All Kim has to do is get out of his office and climb it. Hopefully the bolts are ok!
d2. Promised Land 20m 24 Þ Climb Balance of Evil and break right across to join Kim's project. A bit cheeky but a good route. Garry Phillips 2006.
d3. Balance of Evil 25m 25 Þ A bit tricky down low. Up the right facing corner to the top. Norm Selby 2003
e1. The Grand Adjudicator 25m 27 10 meters right of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack (passing may be a few pitons), and the hanging corner. Take wires and friends up to #3. Nick Hancock 2004.
The Glass Tier 25m 22 (Natural Gear) Follow a series of left trending flakes just past a ridiculously thin crack-line. Most of the rock on this climb looks dubious from the ground, but in fact it is pristine quality except for the first move. The upper section is reasonably sustained. Hamish and Marcel Jackson, Jan 2002.
e4. Wizard Of Oz 27m 32 Þ Climb up the start of the arch. Break left to gain small corner system. Crazy shouldery stemming to reach the jug out left. Traverse right on edges to a good rest then to the belay past some funky moves. One hell of a good route. Jake Bresnehan 2006.
e5. Ferret On A Leash 25m 27 11Þ Classic intro to the harder climbs at the Star Factory. Up a nice looking corner to a big ledge. Then up thin groove. The moves are insecure and the feet are slick and mean. Nick Hancock 2003.
f1. The Tooth Fairy 25m 32 10Þ Named after the route stole the Kim’s front teeth while he was bolting it. Start at the end of the fixed walking rope. Climb up past 3 tricky boulder problems. A good one. Kim Robinson 2004.
f2. Fairy Floss 25m 31 Þ Climb the Tooth Fairy until the big hanging flake at half hight and then break out left past a bit of a kung fu pinch move. Powerful crux section. Garry Phillips 2006.
g1. Entree 25m 29 Þ Head up easy ground to half height. Head right and up past a rad punch to the biggest under cling in Tassie. Squirm up the groove to reach the belay. Super classic. Garry Phillips 2004.
g2. Come Get Me 25m 30 Þ Same start as Entrée but go direct. When the route steepens, the hard climbing begins! (skip dogging bolts on redpoint). To some jugs. Then go and get it. A very nice and sharp hold. Head out left to reach the chains. Come Get Me! Garry Phillips 2005.
g3. The Supposed Golden Path 25m 27 8Þ The far lefthand side of the wall. 8 bolts up a nice yellow arête, with a tricky finish. Nick Hancock 2003.
h1. Star Wars 25m 27 5Þ This is a little goodie. Up the fixed rope to the base. Climb the amazing face above with some dynamic moves downwards and left towards the top. Could go direct at the last bolt, but so far every one has gone left on the bigger holds. The best 27 the Factory has to offer. Doug McConnell.
i2. Astro Boy 20m 30 Þ Water polished granite. Climb Me. This gem of a climb is a must for people who like climbing good routes. A hard boulder to get to the 4th draw will keep the masses away, and the mantel at the top will keep the boulderers crying. Good conditions help. Al Williams, June 2005.
Back Yard Surgery 20m 29 Þ The line 4m L of Astro Boy. V7 start, then awesome climbing.G. Phillips, Sept. 2008.
j1. Simply The Best 20m 28 Þ The name says it all! Just enjoy - if you can get in the groove of the style. A little cruxy at one point, but once the flared hand jam is reached the fun heats up. Garry Phillips.
k1. The Adjuster 36m 21 (Natural Gear) The well-defined right facing corner system toward the lower end of the tier. Perfect rock. Perfect position.
(1) 18m 13. Climb the corner to the ledge under the roof. Marcel and Hamish Jackson, Aug 94.
(2) 18m 21. Up to the roof then follow an airy traverse right until the roof fades into a faint depression. Tricky moves to the top. Hamish Jackson, Toby Bown and Marcel Jackson, Jan 2002.
(1) 18m 13. Climb the corner to the ledge under the roof. Marcel and Hamish Jackson, Aug 94.
(2) 18m 21. Up to the roof then follow an airy traverse right until the roof fades into a faint depression. Tricky moves to the top. Hamish Jackson, Toby Bown and Marcel Jackson, Jan 2002.
k2. Turbo Hammer 20m 25 6Þ Named after the one and only. Looks easy but! Climb up the radtastic left leaning flared crack, on some smears and a few more smears. Very good. Garry Phillips Jul 2003.
Seal Launch 20m 22 7Þ Climb a dogleg groove just right of a distinct arête formation. Al Williams July 03.
Minor Technicality 23 4Þ The arête and RH Face left of seal launch, delicate technical climbing mostly on the face past 3 FH lead to jugs past another FH to a DBB. Alan Williams, May 2005.
Cheese Supreme 12m 24 5Þ Start just L of Technicality. Reachy moves in the thin seam to get off the ground lead to some big moves off big holds on immaculate rock. 5 bolts + lower-off. (This route goes straight up thin seam around the corner from Technicality, lower-off is off a small ledge at about the same height as Technicality).
The following routes are on the flat slightly slabby face characterised by large (often loose) crystals, the rock quallity is not perfect but the unique large crystals make for interesting climbing.
The Great Gonzo 21m 22 10Þ Next route R of Holy Ghost. Up steep wall on good holds with tricky moves gaining slab. Up on big crystals to the top. 10 bolts + lower-off.
The Holy Ghost 25m 24 Þ The right hand line of bolts with a reachy crux high up. Garry Phillips July 03
The Father 25m 22 8Þ Follow the left hand line of bolts on the highly featured wall at the far left hand end of the cliff. Nick Hancock July 03
The Men's Gallery is a little separate from the main Star Factory crag. To get to the Men's Gallery walk down the ramp at the far left side of the Star Factory to a rap station. From here climb the short wall above via 4 bolts (grade 12) to the belay on the ledge. To descend rap off the rings, but try to avoid letting the ropes fall down the crack below!
Red Hill Town 26 9Þ Power up steep wall (crux) to good rest. Continue easily, with tricky move at half height. 9 U-bolts + lower-offs. Best done with the first two bolts pre-clipped. Simon Young 28/6/06.
Wild Winds 27 Þ Starts 2m right of the belay on the Men's Gallery ledge. Up face and corner system via some unlikely looking moves. A really good resistance route. Garry Phillips 20/11/05.
This is a remote cliff in a great spot with beautiful lines. Access is by the Sea Level Traverse, or alternatively most people now approach from the Star Factory. Walk along the base of the Star Factory to the last routes and below the Mens Gallery. From the belay bolts used to get up to the Mens Gallery rap down to the slabs below and then make an easy scramble up and around the corner to The Gonk.
Monty Python's Flying Circus 8m 25 The ultimate deep water solo? Climb the stunning flake on the west face of the huge boulder, at the southern end of the slabs below the Gonk. Nick Hancock January 2003.
Sporting Nightmare 70m 15 Provides an easy, but poorly protected, climb to the top of The Gonk. Scramble up L of the long blank wall L of Dumpster, to belay below a short chimney. 1. Climb the chimney behind the block and continue up the slab above to the scrub. Go slightly R through this to an easy crack leading to a tree belay on the saddle. 2. Follow the crack above, then slabs up R to a DBB. Abseil off via On the Highway to Hell, double ropes required. Nick Hancock, Jake Bresnehan, January 2003.
Dumpster 45m 20 Follow Sealevel Traverse until Flowstone Wall is first seen. This route is the short overhung corner. 1. 20m Up corner to a large ledge. 2. 25m Follow the flakes to other ledge. Abseil off. Kim Carrigan, Mike Law, Greg Child, Feb 78.
Where In The Stain Is Snedn 45m 24 Pan-dimensional hyperclassic line and location. Not bad climbing either. The arete right of Dumpster.
1. 18m 20 Climb the arête to the foot of the corner.
2. 25m 24 Climb the incipient corner crack on small wires using bridging, layback, steep slab and even crack climbing. When the top of the corner can be reached, step left onto the face to clip the bolt, then tend left to the ledge. A bolt lower down protects the possibility of a hazardous fall over the arête.
Pitch 1. L.Bottomley, Garn Cooper Tim Chappell, Sep 91. Pitch 2. Marcel Hamish Jackson Jul 94.
1. 18m 20 Climb the arête to the foot of the corner.
2. 25m 24 Climb the incipient corner crack on small wires using bridging, layback, steep slab and even crack climbing. When the top of the corner can be reached, step left onto the face to clip the bolt, then tend left to the ledge. A bolt lower down protects the possibility of a hazardous fall over the arête.
Pitch 1. L.Bottomley, Garn Cooper Tim Chappell, Sep 91. Pitch 2. Marcel Hamish Jackson Jul 94.
On The Highway to Hell 80m 25 The direct finish to Where in the Stain is Snedn, up the amazing soaring arête.
1. 20m 20 As for Where in the Stain is Snedn.
2. 30m 25 Climb the incipient corner crack of the original, but instead of traversing off L at the second bolt, continue straight on up the flying arête via 5 more bolts, to a bolt belay where the angle eases.
3. 30m 22 Step L and climb the barrelling slab via 4 bolts to an easy runnel leading to a bolt belay at the clifftop. Double ropes are essential to rappel the climb. Nick Hancock, Kieran Lawton, Mar 02.
1. 20m 20 As for Where in the Stain is Snedn.
2. 30m 25 Climb the incipient corner crack of the original, but instead of traversing off L at the second bolt, continue straight on up the flying arête via 5 more bolts, to a bolt belay where the angle eases.
3. 30m 22 Step L and climb the barrelling slab via 4 bolts to an easy runnel leading to a bolt belay at the clifftop. Double ropes are essential to rappel the climb. Nick Hancock, Kieran Lawton, Mar 02.
The Meaning of Life 25m 24/25 8Þ The awesome flake route right of Where in the Stain is Sneden (fully equipped, with DBB). Doug McConnell, Jun 2003.
